TRAVELS 


LADY'S  MAID 


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{Travels 


OF  A 


LADY'S  MAID 


By 


L.C.Page  &  Comparryo 

Boston  1908 


TTTT 


Copyright,  1908 
BY  L.  C.  PAGE  &  COMPANY 

(INCORPORATED) 


All  rights  reserved 


First  Impression,  September,  1908 


Blectrotyped  and  Printed  at 
THE  COLONIAL  PRESS: 
C.  H.  Simonds  C&  Co.,  Boston,  U  .S. A. 


INTRODUCTORY 

THERE  has  been  considerable  comment,  one 
way  or  another,  concerning  my  writing  at  all; 
and  when  it  comes  to  printing,  —  "  publishing  " 
they  call  it,  —  some  in  the  housekeeper's  room 
disapprove,  and  in  the  servants'  hall  most,  you 
may  say,  are  set  against  it,  though  Mr.  Broadam, 
our  butler,  allows  it  might  be  proper  for  a  valet; 
a  butler  having  too  important  duties,  he  well 
knows  from  experience,  to  be  trifling  with  pens 
and  ink.  He  thinks,  however,  the  book  Mr. 
Constant  wrote  about  that  French  king  —  Mon- 
sieur Fran9ois,  the  chef,  advised  it  to  him  —  un- 
common good  reading,  once  you  are  well  started 
in  those  foreign  ways ;  and  some  tales,  that  have 
leaked  out,  so  to  say,  about  our  own  Royalties  in 
long  ago  reigns  are  past  believing  for  truth,  if 
they  were  not  clearly  before  you  in  black  and 
white. 

Though  always  I  have  liked  books,  and  merely 
seeing  their  covers  in  booksellers'  windows  thrills 
me,  thinking  of  the  wisdom  and  knowledge  inside, 
I  have  read  few  tales  except  the  "  Pilgrim's 
Progress,"  by  Mr.  Bunyan ;  some  volumes  of  Sir 
Walter  Scott's ;  "  Black  Beauty,"  —  describing 

V 

2138515   ' 


vi  INTRODUCTORY 

the  woes  and  feelings  of  the  poor  horses ;  —  and 
"  Her  Majesty's  Journal,"  especially  enjoying 
those  parts  telling  about  the  cold  luncheons, 
nearly  upsetting  of  the  Royal  carriage,  when 
they  lost  their  way  driving  back  to  the  Castle 
after  dark,  and  forgetting  the  Queen's  cap. 
Having  seen  a  number  of  Shakespeare's  plays 
also,  learning  history  through  such  scenes  is  to 
me  very  enjoyable,  and  for  pleasure  far  surpass- 
ing the  Hippodrome  or  Crystal  Palace  shows. 
When  I  think  of  those  fortunate  persons  able 
to  fill  their  days  with  study,  and  such  like  im- 
proving things,  it  is  hard  not  to  be  a  little  en- 
vious. 

Though  Mr.  Broadam  puts  it  kindly,  I  can 
see  he  has  scant  patience  with  women  setting 
down  their  thoughts,  or  views,  asserting  "  It 
leads  to  trouble,  if  not  actually  making  it,  and 
no  good  comes  of  such  meddling  and  demean- 
ing." 

I  kept  turning  the  matter  over  in  my  mind, 
and  one  day  Aunt  Sarah's  stepson  —  she  having 
twice  married,  and  he  being  foreman's  assistant 
where  they  make  books  —  said  to  me :  '  There 
is  a  deal  of  talk  nowadays  about  writing  from 
life,  and,  according  to  the  conclusions  of  those 
who  both  work  and  ponder,  plain  every  day 
happenings,  in  my  opinion,  are  what  most  read- 
ers care  for,  if  you  simply  set  down  what  you 
know  from  your  own  experience,  like  garden 
cultivating  for  pleasure,  or  profit;  writing  on 
the  subject  often  pays  better  than  raising  crops, 


INTRODUCTORY  vii 

farming  with  pigs,  or  dwelling  with  princes. 
Careful  watch  must  be  kept,  noting,  so  far  as 
needful,  respecting  their  prosperity,  what  they 
eat,  how  their  days  are  passed,  and,  from  your 
own  way  of  thinking,  maybe,  what  they  live 
for."  This  rather  settled  my  mind,  having  set 
down  a  good  deal  concerning  daily  living,  as 
well  as  about  foreign  lands,  though  never  going 
so  far  as  to  think  it  out  that  way  about  princes 
and  swine.  In  any  case,  he,  —  Aunt  Sarah's 
stepson,  —  seemed  to  point  out  what  I  had  best 
do  with  all  those  odds  and  ends  of  papers  I  had 
covered  with  writing,  simply  because  I  could 
not  help  noting  down  the  interesting  things 
heard  and  passing  panorama-like  before  my 
eyes.  When  I  had  put  them  together,  "  Copy 
out  clear  these  pencil  ones,"  said  Sam,  "  and  tell 
about  your  starting  out."  This  I  did.  Close  to 
Christmas  he  came  in  saying  one  of  their  gentle- 
men told  him  it  was  not  half  bad  reading  in  the 
rough,  and,  if  his  advice  were  followed,  —  the 
business  detail  I  did  not,  of  course,  comprehend, 
—  might  bring  a  nice  sum  on  going  to  press, 
and  not  far  from  the  truth  were  these  predic- 
tions when,  later,  I  consented  to  what  Aunt 
Sarah's  stepson  had  continually  urged. 


TRAVELS   OF   A 
LADY'S  MAID 


CHAPTER   I 

I  WAS  born  north  of  the  Tweed,  a  region  pro- 
viding children  more  plenteously  than  means  for 
their  upbringing.  In  our  rugged  Highlands 
few  need  err  from  faith,  so  to  say,  nor  drown 
in  destruction  or  perdition  owing  to  the  snares 
of  their  riches.  Hard,  ceaseless  toil  barely  sup- 
plied food  and  raiment  for  growing  families, 
such  as  ours;  eight  of  us  there  were,  maybe 
more,  for  how  many  brothers  and  sisters  came 
before  mother  died  is  never  quite  clear  to  me, 
owing  to  some  having  lived  but  a  few  months, 
or  less,  and  gone  before  I  was  old  enough  to 
remember,  I  having  come  about  the  middle. 

"  Aweel,  aweel,  a  vera  weary  wumman!"  the 
neighbours  agreed  in  loud  whispers,  when  they 
had  tramped  in  out  of  the  storm,  stamping  the 
deep  December  snows  from  their  heavy  boots, 
and  shaking  the  still  falling  flakes  from  caps  and 
hoods,  before  closing  about  the  kitchen  fire  for 
a  drop  of  something  warming,  as  they  sighingly 


2       TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

settled  themselves  comfortably  to  watch  the 
night  with  all  left  to  us  poor  bairns  of  "  mither." 
A  thoughtless  lass  I  was  then,  not  far  beyond 
twelve  years;  but  after  those  few  weeks  I 
seemed  to  see  things  in  a  woman's  way,  strug- 
gling early  and  late  to  keep  the  house  orderly 
and  comfortable  as  mother  had,  with  two 
younger  than  I,  and  the  twins  always  calling 
me.  The  elders,  sister  and  two  boys,  were  miles 
away,  one  learning  his  trade,  the  other  a  stable 
boy  at  the  great  house  where  sister  was  scullery 
maid.  We  kept  on  as  best  we  could,  though 
father  worried;  was  constantly  anxious  and 
fretful.  I  did  hope  Katy  —  that  is  sister  who 
was  pretty  and  good  to  us  children  —  would  be 
home  soon;  but  one  evening  father  sat  long  at 
the  table,  a  letter  spread  before  him  which 
"  whistling  Wallie  "  had  thrust  through  a  crack 
in  the  ill-fitting  casement  when  passing  home- 
ward from  his  work.  Wallie's  wits  worked 
slowly,  but  he  was  quick  to  do  a  neighbourly 
turn.  Father's  hand  shaded  his  eyes  from  the 
flickering  lamp-light;  after  long  silence,  push- 
ing back  his  chair  and  sighing  heavily,  he  folded 
the  letter,  and  half  to  himself,  in  a  broken, 
trembling  voice,  said,  "  Katy's  gone.  She  will 
no  darken  my  door  again;  dead  to  us  is  Katy." 
After  that  we  never  dared  so  much  as  speak 
her  name,  nor  did  I  ever  see  or  hear  from  her, 
though,  missing  my  way  in  London  one  of 
those  dull  November  nights  when  I  had  been 
sent  to  get  an  embroidered  blouse  worked  by 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID       3 

a  sweet-faced  cripple  living  away  east  of  Regent 
Street,  as  I  stood  hesitatingly  in  the  gloom,  un- 
certain which  way  to  turn,  the  lights  having 
such  queer,  misty  shapes  about  them,  some  one 
laughed  loudly  just  behind  me.  It  sounded  so 
like  Katy  that  I  turned  as  a  motor-car  flashed 
by,  and  in  that  moment  of  steady,  searching 
light,  saw  a  tall,  fair-looking  girl,  resembling 
Katy,  but  bolder  appearing.  She  was  smiling, 
under  a  big  hat  with  red  feathers  standing  up 
in  front  —  just  as  Katy  used;  but  I  saw  it 
could  not  be  Katy,  for  her  face,  being  thick 
with  paint,  had  no  look  of  a  decent  woman. 
When  I  started  toward  her  she  turned  away 
hastily  with  her  rough  companions,  and  was 
gone  into  the  darkness. 

Father,  never  a  strong  man,  got  more  feeble, 
and  could  not  look  after  our  bit  of  land.  He 
used  to  sit  at  home  evenings  smoking  his  pipe 
when  mother  was  there,  but  now  hurried  off  at 
dusk.  Long  after  we  were  in  bed  trying  to 
keep  ourselves  warm,  we  children  would  hear 
his  step,  but  dared  not  speak  because  he  looked 
so  strange;  and  some  mornings  we  could  hardly 
wake  him  to  give  a  bite  to  the  cattle  that  were 
calling,  human  like,  for  food. 

Bob  heard  the  neighbours  say  things  were  go- 
ing from  bad  to  worse,  when,  one  day  before 
midsummer,  father  came  in,  smiling  as  he  had 
not  for  a  long  time,  and  said,  —  "  There'll  be  a 
new  mither  to  look  after  ye  now,  Annie.  Widow 
Brown  and  me  go  before  the  minister  this  day 


4      TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

week."  Then  we  knew  the  landlady  down  at 
the  inn  would  be  his  wife.  No  one  was  sure 
where  she  came  from,  and  folks  had  evil  things 
to  say  of  that  "  Glasgow  girl  "  old  John  Brown 
brought  back  with  him  after  his  wife's  death, 
and  a  year  before  he  followed.  None  dared 
speak  these  things  before  her,  she  being  a  fine, 
big-featured  woman,  with  commanding  ways, 
having  a  tidy  sum,  all  agreed,  in  the  bank. 

Father  sold  our  farm  to  Campbell,  who 
wanted  it  for  his  son,  and  we  went  with  him  to 
the  inn.  Father  and  the  new  mother  tried  to 
be  kind;  that  is,  they  were  not  bad  to  us;  but 
it  was  a  sad  change.  Being  older  than  the  others 
I  felt  it  most;  and  we  seemed  to  miss  mother 
more  than  at  first,  when  we  had  the  cows,  sheep, 
and  old  Bruce,  who  we  children  believed  ex- 
celled, in  intelligence,  all  other  dogs,  to  talk  to. 

One  day,  —  I  had  grown  tall  and  slim  by 
this  time,  —  I  was  that  pleased  to  hear  Mrs. 
F'orbes,  who  always  took  an  interest  in  us  bairns, 
say  to  stepmother,  "  Annie  is  getting  to  be  a 
handy  girl.  She's  clever  with  her  fingers,  and, 
if  you  say  the  word,  Mary,  who  is  doing  well 
in  a  grand  dress-making  place  in  London,  will 
give  her  a  chance." 

Father  was  willing,  and  though  the  twins  and 
I  wept  sore  at  parting,  I  gladly  went  with  kind 
Mary  when,  after  a  week's  stay  with  her  mother, 
she  returned  to  that  enchanting  London,  which 
often  I  had  heard  described,  though  hardly 
venturing  to  dream  I  might  some  day  see. 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID       5 

Sharing  together  a  back  room,  Mary  and  I 
had  such  a  happy  home  at  the  lodgings  for 
gentlemen,  bank  clerks,  booksellers,  and  the 
like,  kept  by  Mary's  uncle's  widow,  who  was 
Aunt  Sarah.  There  were  seldom  changes;  one 
a  musical  gentleman,  an  organist,  had  lodged 
there  ten  years,  for  the  past  three  having  his 
nephew  the  choirmaster  with  him.  On  clear 
spring  days  the  sunshine  lay  on  the  floor  of  our 
room  for  an  hour  or  more;  not  that  we  often 
saw  it,  barring  Sundays,  after  I  began  going 
to  the  shop,  —  at  first  I  helped  Aunt  Sarah,  as 
she  said  I  might  call  her,  with  the  lodgers,  — 
but,  knowing  the  sun's  rays  had  rested  there 
gave  us  country  girls  a  joyful  feeling  when  we 
came  back  tired  and  cold.  Another  thing  gave 
us  much  pleasure,  —  by  walking  not  above  half 
a  mile  out  of  our  way,  on  going  home  from 
work,  we  could  see  the  trees  in  Berkeley  Square. 
On  fine  days  the  young  ladies  from  Lord  Rose- 
bery's  big  mansion  near-by  would  be  playing 
there  with  their  governess,  the  policeman  told 
us. 

We  liked  reading  about  the  Earl  in  the  illus- 
trated newspapers,  and  more  than  once  the 
Countess  came  to  our  shop,  giving  orders  for 
gowns  or  a  dust  cloak.  We  never  tired  talking 
of  her  kind  face,  and  the  blessing  she  was  to  the 
poor  and  needy.  Mary  and  I  could  not  keep 
back  our  tears  when  we  heard  she  had  gone, 
and  we  read  those  verses  in  the  paper.  One  I 
never  can  forget;  I  wrote  it  out  and  it  is  this:  — 


6      TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

"  And  now  within  the  house  of  Life, 

All  doubtful  issues  reconciled; 
Father  of  mercies,  lead  thine  own. 
O  God  of  Israel,  keep  thy  child." 

The  house  of  Life  must  mean  Heaven.  We 
girls  could  but  think  the  life  she  lived  on  this 
earth  was  like  what  many  hope  may  be  theirs 
in  a  better  world. 

When  they  laid  the  Countess  away,  our  man- 
ager said,  there  was  not  a  dry  eye;  and  the 
noble  and  the  great  stood  by  bearing  wreaths 
and  saying  over  her  those  beautiful  old  Hebrew 
words  that  she  loved  and  lived  by  all  her  days. 


CHAPTER   II 

THE  first  time  the  Countess,  my  lady,  that  is, 
spoke  to  me  —  though  often  I  had  stood  by  to 
hand  the  scissors  or  fasten  a  button  when  she 
was  being  fitted  —  was  one  day  when  I  was 
holding  pins  for  Mademoiselle  Marthe,  —  Miss 
Martyr,  some  of  the  girls  would  call  her.  She 
did  have  a  fine  figure  for  height  and  style,  and 
no  matter  what  the  hour  or  weather,  Mademoi- 
selle would  be  summoned  for  our  special  cus- 
tomers. Sometimes  ladies  as  you  might  call 
stout,  or  extremely  lean,  wanted  to  see  the  latest 
modes  from  Paris,  and  Mademoiselle  would  be 
asked  to  pass  on  a  coat  or  mantle;  and  when 
she  had  said,  "  Pardon,  now  Madame  will  see 
zee  exact  effect  on  Madame,"  and  had  walked 
the  room  once  or  twice,  our  Mr.  Allen  knew 
it  meant  orders  to  be  booked  without  delay;  and 
Mademoiselle,  too,  seemed  satisfied  with  the 
effect,  though  we  girls,  in  our  ignorance,  some- 
times passed  the  remark  between  ourselves  that 
other  styles  would  be  more  becoming  to  not  quite 
youthful  features  and  shapes. 

But  I  am  wandering  from  what  I  began  tell- 
ing about  her  ladyship.  As  I  mentioned,  I  was 
holding  the  pins  for  Mademoiselle  —  that  is,  all 

7 


8       TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

she  did  not  have  in  her  mouth  —  when  the 
Countess  said,  somewhat  hesitatingly,  "  I  have 
been  distressed  about  our  school-room  maid;  the 
doctor  fears  she  must  give  up  work,  and  I  have 
sent  her  to  a  nursing  home  at  Bournemouth  for 
a  fortnight.  This  morning  the  housekeeper  told 
me  the  young  woman  she  had  expected  in  her 
place  had  disappointed  her.  Perhaps,  Made- 
moiselle, you,  who  have  been  here  so  long,  may 
know  of  some  young  person."  There  was  a 
glance  toward  me,  and  I,  as  you  might  say, 
caught  Mademoiselle's  eye.  She  being  so  good- 
natured-like,  exclaimed,  "  Oh,  Madame,  Annie 
is  very  capable,  so  soigneuse  and  obliging,  they 
all  do  say.  I  shall  have  extremely  much  pleas- 
ure in  ze  recommending,  if  Madame  la  Comtesse 
is  pleased  to  consider  it  possible." 

Looking  straight  at  me,  her  ladyship  then 
asked,  "  What  is  your  name?  "  When  I  replied, 
"  Anne  Burns,  please  your  ladyship,"  she  smiled, 
saying,  "  I  think  you  are  from  Scotland,"  as 
though  reminded  of  something  she  was  glad  to 
remember.  Then  it  came  out  about  mother's 
dying;  about  the  twins  and  the  boys;  though 
not  until  long  after  that  day  did  I  mention 
Katy. 

Before  leaving,  the  Countess  said,  decided- 
like,  "  I  shall  speak  with  Mr.  Allen,  and  Mrs. 
Bufers  will  write  when  she  can  see  you.  Thank 
you,  Mademoiselle." 

So  everything  was  settled,  and  I,  who  had 
pined  a  bit,  after  years  of  shop  work,  with  only 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID      9 

a  day  off  now  and  then,  or  a  bank  holiday  at 
Margate  —  once  we  planned  for  the  Isle  of 
Wight,  but  missing  the  boat  had  to  come  back 
that  tired  and  def eated-like  —  knew,  as  I  said, 
that  I  was  to  be  school-room  maid  at  a  grand 
house  where  one  could  see  green  meadows  and 
growing  flowers  again. 

Almost  too  good  to  be  true,  it  seemed,  for  the 
most  I  had  hoped  was  sometime  to  be  a  useful 
maid  to  maid  the  lady,  who  might  perhaps  travel 
as  far  as  Scotland,  and  once  again  there,  I 
should  have  a  chance  to  find  the  twins,  for  Robin 
and  Jamie  had  died  with  the  fever,  three  years 
back;  and  long  ago,  I  should  have  put  down, 
father,  too,  had  gone,  and  none  just  well  knew 
what  had  become  of  stepmother,  or  the  twins, 
the  old  place  having  changed  hands. 

Mademoiselle  would  take  no  thanks,  replying 
kindly,  in  her  impulsive  French  way,  "It  is  you 
who  deserve  the  good  fortune,  mon  enfant." 


CHAPTER   III 

'You  will  be  under  the  upper  housemaid," 
said  Mrs.  Bufers  when  I  had  courtesied  to  my 
lady,  who  directed  I  should  come  for  a  moment 
to  her  writing-room,  where  she  said  pleasantly, 
'  You  will  soon  learn  your  new  duties  and  get 
on  nicely,  I  am  sure."  From  that  hour  I  could 
not  help  adoring  her,  as  I  do  now. 

Miss  Short,  the  upper  housemaid,  was  not 
just  popular  in  the  hall,  though  some  of  the 
footmen  declared  her  no  shirker  of  work;  but 
I  tried  my  best  to  keep  the  school-room  as  she 
insisted  it  should  be,  up  to  her  mark,  never  a 
pen  or  a  pencil  out  of  its  place  when  my  young 
lady,  —  that  is  Lady  Emily,  —  came  with  Frau- 
lein. 

The  first  morning  Miss  Short  had  just  fin- 
ished telling  me  to  be  careful  with  the  black 
poodle  standing  upon  his  hind-legs  on  the  desk; 
-  his  head  being  full  of  ink,  and  one  paw  broken, 
made  him  unsteady;  adding  I  need  not  mind 
about  the  missing  claw  of  a  silver  crab  that 
sprawled  on  the  writing  table  as  though  alive, 
for  that  claw  had  gone  long  ago,  and  the  body 
was  always  kept  stuffed  with  postage  stamps, 
when  suddenly,  from  near  a  large  window  where 

10 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID     11 

several  covered  boxes  stood,  some  one  called 
roughly,  "  Get  out!  don't  talk  so  loud."  I  just 
trembled  all  over,  —  me  that  hardly  dared  speak 
above  a  whisper  since  coming  to  Ortham  Tow- 
ers, to  be  shouted  at  sudden,  like  that,  —  and 
dropping  a  book  I  had  taken  up  to  dust,  struck 
the  little  dog's  head,  and  he  toppled  over,  ink 
flowing  from  his  opened  throat;  in  a  moment, 
somehow,  Miss  Short,  who  I  thought  out  of  the 
room,  was  there,  and  in  not  at  all  an  angry 
manner  remarked,  "  I  meant  to  have  warned 
you  about  those  old  birds.  Not  a  cover  will 
Lady  Emily  allow  lifted  until  she  comes  in. 
That  big  green  rascal  is  agitating  like  when  you 
don't  know  he  is  there;  an  awful  fighter  with 
beak  and  claws,  if  once  he  gets  at  you;  but  you 
mustn't  go  near  him  without  Lady  Emily's  or- 
ders." 

While  Miss  Short  was  talking  she  wiped  up 
the  ink  with  a  bit  of  blue  paper,  so  skilfully 
nobody  would  ever  know  there  had  been  an  acci- 
dent; and  when  she  said  "It's  no  use  crying 
over  spilled  milk,"  —  though  black  ink  did  seem 
to  me  worse,  —  I  felt  happier  and  could  finish 
my  duties  in  peace;  for  never  a  word  more  did 
old  Poll  say. 

Though  not  much  past  her  sixteenth  birthday, 
Lady  Emily  was  already  taller  than  the  Count- 
ess, and  very  beautiful.  Her  ladyship  blos- 
somed out  in  a  surprising  manner;  like  lawn 
crocuses  in  early  spring,  Mrs.  Bufers  said. 
Compared  to  Lady  Emily,  those  flowers  seemed 


12     TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S   MAID 

but  poor  things,  I  thought,  though  she  reminded 
me  of  them,  and  the  golden  hues  of  her  hair  are 
like  those  shining  waters  of  mountain  streams 
where  they  ripple  over  yellow  brown  sands. 

Many  months  after  first  going  to  Ortham,  I 
heard  the  elderly  Hungarian  —  formerly  Lady 
Emily's  music  master  —  remark  to  another  guest 
at  the  Towers,  that  his  pupil,  though  born  to 
sway  and  lead,  was  herself  ruled  by  the  prompt- 
ings of  a  heart  generously  tender  and  ardent  to 
a  degree  beyond  estimating,  and  the  visitor 
agreed  that  her  ladyship  enthralled  all  near  her 
by  her  frank  kindness;  possessing,  too,  that  al- 
luring, graceful  vivacity  of  a  French  grande 
dame,  rather  than  the  English  temperament. 

Lady  Emily  frequently  planned  treats  for 
me,  who  was  so  fond  of  the  country.  When  she 
went  with  Fraulein  to  gather  wild  flowers  or 
ferns  for  the  Countess's  fernery,  I  was  taken 
on  the  long  walk,  and  once,  Fraulein  having  a 
bad  headache,  Lady  Emily  would  have  me  go 
in  her  own  pony  carriage,  herself  driving  those 
beautiful  little  horses  —  named  Marco  and  Polo 
by  the  Earl,  her  ladyship  said,  because  of  their 
being  such  remarkable  travellers  —  to  leave  a 
large  parcel  at  the  needlework  Guild,  or  the 
Reduced  Gentlewoman's  Society,  in  the  village. 
That  afternoon  I  had  a  good  chance  to  see  how 
skilfully  Lady  Emily  managed  the  ponies.  In 
turning  from  the  highway,  into  the  lane  by  the 
duck  pond  —  on  one  side  there  is  a  wall,  a  steep- 
ish  bank  on  the  other  —  we  met  two  extraordi- 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID     13 

nary-appearing  ladies,  wearing  fluttering  shawls, 
and  hats  of  a  very  odd  shape,  standing  fully 
two  feet  above  their  heads,  and  covered  with 
wreaths  of  artificial  flowers.  To  avoid  running 
over  these  poor  creatures  mincing  slowly  along 
seemed  utterly  impossible;  the  horses  being 
frightened  almost  beyond  control,  by  the  shawls 
and  parasols,  and  by  a  flock  of  geese  hissing  and 
waddling  from  one  side  of  the  road  to  the  other, 
as  they  ran  and  flew  with  flapping,  stretched- 
out  wings  towards  the  water;  but  before  Saun- 
ders  the  groom  —  not  a  very  young  man  — 
could  get  to  the  ground,  Lady  Emily  had 
guided  the  spirited  ponies,  holding  them  firmly, 
speaking,  as  though  nothing  had  happened,  to 
the  trembling  ladies,  who,  overcome  with  fear, 
seemed  unable  to  stir  from  the  roadside.  Saun- 
ders  told  me,  that  evening,  they  never  were  quite 
right  in  their  minds;  imagining  themselves 
royal  princesses;  and  that  everybody  would 
most  respectfully  move  out  of  their  way,  no 
matter  where  they  chose  to  stand. 


I  HAD  never  seen  the  heir,  of  course;  that  is, 
Lord  Glamorden,  he  being  at  Oxford.  Some- 
times the  Earl  and  Countess  seemed  disturbed 
about  his  studying  hard,  or  something. 

It  was  rumoured  in  the  hall  that  James  Bar- 
more,  the  Viscount's  own  man,  asserted  there 
never  was  a  gentleman  of  the  nobility,  or  gentry 
either,  for  that  matter,  who  had  spent  more,  in 
his  day,  at  the  University,  than  had  Lord  Gla- 
morden before  he  auctioneered  off  his  racing 
stud,  —  always  run  under  a  friend's  name,  ow- 
ing to  those  Dons  and  other  Oxford  authorities, 
a  "  rotten  lot "  in  Barmore's  estimation,  forever 
arguing  and  holding  out  flat  against  studs, 
claiming  horse-racing  interfered  with  study. 

Not  one  in  the  hall  had  a  good  word  for 
James  Barmore,  nor  do  they  believe  him  Eng- 
lish, in  spite  of  his  name,  and  some  hold  he  is 
a  Jesuit  in  disguise.  Mr.  Stubbs,  the  Earl's 
valet,  declared  Barmore  not  of  his  lordship's 
choosing,  by  any  means,  but  that  he  had  been 
urged  on  like  to  the  Viscount  by  Sir  Wynns- 
Larkin  when  he  left  the  college,  as  "  a  man  who 
understands  exactly  what  is  needed."  Mr. 
Stubbs  added  that,  in  his  private  opinion,  the 
only  thing  he  is  really  fitted  for  is  bell  ringing, 

14 


where  they  sound  the  quarter  hours.  He  also 
would  advise  his  being  locked  in  the  belfry 
tower,  so  the  whole  town  could  know  he  was 
out  of  mischief. 

I  never  saw  Barmore,  but  heard  from  one 
of  the  housemaids,  that  he  was  a  dark,  small, 
young  fellow,  very  thin,  with  long  arms  like 
a  monkey's,  and  had,  too,  an  insolent,  impish 
way  of  looking  at  you  from  the  corners  of  his 
bold  rolling  eyes,  and  that  quick,  you  never 
could  tell  what  he  would  do  next. 

Though  the  Earl  is  the  easiest  of  gentlemen, 
he  can  not  endure  high  play  at  cards,  and  has 
no  patience  with  the  doings  at  some  great  houses 
where  the  gentlemen,  after  dinner,  pretending 
they  are  horses,  draw  the  ladies  about  the  gal- 
leries on  rugs,  or  slide  down  the  stairs  on  tea- 
trays;  and  his  lordship  detests  that  foreign 
fashion  of  cigarette-smoking  by  the  ladies. 

One  day,  when  Mr.  Baggers,  the  Earl's  solic- 
itor, had  spent  hours  in  the  library,  the  doors 
being  closed,  as  he  crossed  the  passage,  Mr. 
Stubbs  heard  him  say,  "  If  this  pace  keeps  up, 
it  will  sweep  away  all  but  the  entail."  That 
meant  trouble,  sure,  and,  in  Mr.  Stubbs'  belief, 
races  —  not  those  Lady  Emily  calls  the  "  Var- 
sity," but  others  at  Newmarket  or  Ascot  —  are 
at  the  bottom  of  it.  One  of  the  grooms,  who  has 
crossed  the  channel  (some  said,  had  been  a  jockey 
until  he  hurt  his  leg)  and  who  well  knows  whereof 
he  speaks,  when  it  comes  to  turf  matters,  declared 
in  his  opinion,  it  was  Paris  or  Trouville. 


16     TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

Soon  after  that  morning,  we  heard,  —  for  he 
did  not  come  to  Ortham  Towers  at  all,  —  that 
the  Viscount  had  sailed  to  America  after  big 
game  hunting  west  of  New  York,  it  was 
thought.  As  the  Earl  and  Countess  seemed 
distressed,  it  was  concluded  the  sport  must  be 
very  dangerous. 

Weeks  passed  quietly  with  few  guests  at 
the  Towers,  when,  one  morning,  Lady  Emily 
fairly  danced  into  the  school-room,  a  bit  of  paper 
in  her  hand  which  she  said  Fraulein  must  read, 
and  would  have  it  that  I,  too,  should  see  it.  I 
was  busy  with  the  cages  —  old  Poll  having  been 
so  good  since  that  first  morning,  never  refusing 
to  accept  any  little  delicacy  Lady  Emily  said 
might  be  given  him.  I  should  have  explained 
before  that  what  sounded  so  rude  that  morning 
Lady  Emily  believes  really  meant  that  he  wished 
to  get  out  of  his  cage.  Having  often  been  told 
"Don't  talk  so  loud!"  it  became  his  habit  to 
repeat  these  words  \vhen  any  one  came  into  the 
room,  and  through  a  little  hole  he  has  eaten  in 
his  cover  for  this  purpose,  he  can  see  everything 
going  on.  After  this  explanation  I  could,  of 
course,  have  nothing  against  such  a  fine,  intelli- 
gent bird.  We  became  friendly,  he  even  allow- 
ing me  to  rub  his  head  when  I  looked  after  the 
cage,  though  always  shrieking  and  striking  at 
Fraulein  in  spite  of  her  speaking  most  coax- 
ingly. 

This  is  what  I  read  from  the  telegram: 


"  Come  to  celebrate  birthday  and  marriage. 
Dearest  girl  in  the  world.  Emily  must  be 
bridesmaid. 

"  GLAMORDEN." 

Soon  all  at  Ortham  knew  our  young  lord  was 
to  marry  that  beautiful  young  lady  from  the 
States  who  had  spent  a  fortnight  at  one  of  the 
great  country-seats  near,  when  the  Viscount 
came  home  for  the  long  vacation.  "  Lord  Gla- 
morden  has  made  good  use  of  his  time,  for  once," 
said  Mr.  Stubbs;  and  all  seemed  satisfied  and 
serene  again. 


CHAPTER   V 

PEECISELY  when  I  don't  rightly  recall;  but 
one  morning  following  Easter,  I  was  sent  for, 
to  go  to  Mrs.  Bufer's  room.  Fearing  something 
wrong  with  my  work,  naturally  I  was  a  bit 
flustered;  but  Mrs.  Bufers,  who  is  kindness  it- 
self, at  once  said  I  had  given  satisfaction.  She 
then  asked  many  questions  about  my  life  in 
London  with  Aunt  Sarah;  about  the  big  shop, 
and  other  things.  I  tried  to  answer  as  best  I 
could;  and,  saying  she  would  be  back  directly, 
she  left,  soon  returning  and  telling  me  I  was 
to  go  to  the  Countess,  in  her  ladyship's  boudoir. 

Never  can  I  forget  that  morning,  or  my  de- 
light over  the  plans  told  me.  After  mentioning 
having  a  good  report  of  me  from  Mrs.  Bufers, 
her  ladyship  said  the  Earl  having  decided  that 
Lady  Emily  should  accompany  them  to  the 
States,  she  had  spoken  with  Madame  Duval, 
Lady  Emily's  nurse,  —  a  respected,  stout  widow 
no  longer  young,  —  who  had  been  with  the 
Countess  almost  since  Lady  Emily's  birth,  and 
Madame  Duval  thought,  especially  as  Lady 
Emily  seemed  to  wish  it,  that,  with  training,  I 
could  fill  her  place  for  the  travelling;  she  feel- 
ing in  no  way  equal  to  journeyings,  and  could 

18 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID    19 

not,  at  any  time,  walk  above  half  a  mile.  Ma- 
dame declared  that  even  if  my  lady  desired  her 
to  go,  she  knew,  once  the  voyage  commenced, 
she  would  die  of  fright,  greatly  inconveniencing 
her  ladyship.  The  Countess  did  not  tell  me 
this  last,  of  course,  but  later,  in  showing  how 
Lady  Emily  wanted  everything  in  her  dressing- 
room  arranged,  Madame  remarked  that  though 
she  hoped  she  need  not  say  she  was  more  than 
willing  to  die  for  the  Countess  or  Lady  Emily, 
not  for  untold  wealth  would  she  ever  again  set 
foot  aboard  a  vessel,  unless  to  return  to  la  belle 
France  to  end  her  days.  She  had  crossed  the 
Channel,  and  once  —  happily  never  again  — 
consented  to  go  on  an  excursion  of  pleasure 
with  some  of  her  own  people,  off  Ilfracombe, 
and  the  remembrance  of  both  was  more  than 
unpleasant. 

I  was  sent  to  New  Bond  Street  for  lessons  in 
hair-dressing;  and  day  after  day  Miss  Barnes, 
the  Countess's  own  maid,  instructed  me  in  fold- 
ing and  packing,  so,  when  all  preparations  for 
the  foreign  tour  were  completed,  I  felt  at  home 
in  my  work,  and  hoped  I  should  not  be  annoy- 
ing to  Lady  Emily. 

Everybody  was  so  rushed,  with  arrangements 
and  appointments  after  the  cable  came,  it  seemed 
but  a  few  days,  though  actually  weeks,  before 
we  were  on  that  grand  steamship  at  Liverpool 
and  soon  beyond  Queenstown,  when,  I  am  sorry 
to  say,  I  was  so  stupid  as  not  to  be  quite  happy 
for  a  day  or  so.  I  was  dizzy  in  my  head,  and 


20     TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

had  queer,  sinking  feelings,  but  managed  to 
attend  to  my  duties,  as  Lady  Emily  required 
almost  nothing  done,  begging  to  remain  in  her 
cabin,  though  the  Earl,  pleased  at  being  on  the 
sea  again,  insisted,  almost,  that  she  should  come 
on  deck  and,  as  he  said,  really  enjoy  the  bound- 
ing motion  of  those  great,  green  waves. 

Miss  Barnes,  —  a  most  particular,  persistent 
person,  —  never  permits  herself  to  be  seasick, 
she  says,  and  at  the  very  worst,  when  even  the 
captain  kept  a  firm  hold  on  the  rails,  brought 
in  the  hot  water  just  at  proper  times,  or  sat  on 
a  round  stool  in  the  little  passage  outside  her 
lady's  door,  putting  on  a  button,  or  mending 
a  glove,  as  though  in  the  wardrobe-room  at  the 
Towers,  and  after  the  first  night  seemed  a  trifle 
disappointed  that  there  were  to  be  no  regular 
toilettes,  you  may  say,  for  dinner. 

Mr.  Stubbs  was  not  seen  for  days.  He  lay 
in  his  berth  nibbling  at  a  Bath  Oliver;  but 
swallowing  next  to  nothing,  the  deck  steward 
informed  Miss  Barnes.  Early  one  morning  - 
those  beautiful  sunrise  lights  still  tinged  the 
waves  —  I  went  from  the  stuffy  cabin  to  the 
ship's  stern  for  a  breath  of  fresh  air,  and  never 
recognized  the  unshaven  man,  a  cap  drawn  down 
over  'his  ears,  leaning  dejectedly  against  a  life- 
boat support,  gazing  out  upon  the  waters;  but 
when  he  turned  I  saw  it  was  Mr.  Stubbs.  He 
asked  if  it  were  true  that  Miss  Barnes  had  not 
failed  a  meal ;  adding  his  trouble  had  been  more 
like  homesickness;  that  he  was  a  sensitive  man, 


though  some  might  not  think  it;  had  travelled 
much,  never  before  having  been  rocked  in  the 
cradle  of  the  broad,  heaving  Atlantic,  however, 
and  the  only  time  he  recollected  anything  ap- 
proaching these  feelings  was,  when  as  a  lad, 
always  a  quiet,  bashful  sort  of  boy,  he  had  gone 
to  see  his  uncle,  living  on  the  Isle  of  Man;  that 
time  the  sensations  did  not  last  long,  but  he  was 
then  told  there  were  those  living  on  that  island 
who  going  there  in  youth,  for  a  fortnight's  stay, 
were  now,  in  old  age,  preparing  for  eternity, 
without  ever  having  had  courage  to  return  home, 
as  it  meant  that  fearful  trip  again. 

After  passing  Ireland,  especially  when  get- 
ting that  last  view  of  Fastnet  Rock,  near  where 
his  own  mother,  and  her  grandmother  before 
her,  had  lived  and  died,  this  came  strongly  over 
him,  and  he  could  not  leave  his  berth,  to  say 
nothing  of  properly  valeting  the  Earl.  Now 
he  was  quite  himself  and  able  to  attend  to  all 
duties.  His  complexion  did  look  awful,  poor 
man,  and  he  had  a  very  lean,  lonesome-like  look, 
quite  different,  I  must  say,  from  his  usually 
nice,  fresh  appearance,  always  the  same,  so  you 
could  hardly  think  of  him  as  ever  having  been 
without  sandy  hair  and  a  neat  black  tie. 

After  the  third  day  we  had  pleasant  weather; 
many  ships  were  passed,  and  at  night  those  big 
liners,  lighted  from  end  to  end,  were  a  beauti- 
ful sight. 

I  did  not  feel  quite  myself  until  one  after- 
noon when  we  saw,  first,  long  stretches  of  sand, 


22     TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

very  white  in  the  June  sunshine.  Huge  break- 
ers surged  over  the  beaches  as  though  deter- 
mined to  wash  away  the  high  bluffs  and  dunes 
behind;  then  a  lighthouse  and  lovely  green  hills 
appeared;  soon  after  the  forts  came  in  view; 
and  not  long  before  sunset,  that  grand  statue 
of  "Liberty  Lighting  the  World;"  then  that 
wonderful  bridge,  spanning  the  river,  and  those 
tall  buildings  all  had  heard  of,  and  we  knew  we 
were  entering  the  harbour  of  New  York. 


CHAPTER   VI 

THERE  was  misunderstanding  about  the 
steamer's  arrival  that  day,  or  a  mistake  in  for- 
warding the  telegram,  for  Lord  Glamorden  was 
not  on  the  pier,  as  he  had  written  he  would  be. 
After  inquiries  and  delays,  the  Earl  said  he 
would  wait  no  longer;  so,  gathering  together 
our  parcels,  we  went  down  to  a  big  hall-like 
place,  where  a  vast  quantity  of  luggage  was 
already  piled  and  eager-looking  men,  custom 
officers,  bustled  hectoringly  about.  His  lordship 
disliked  being  detained  and  questioned,  but  said 
Stubbs  could  open  the  boxes  if  required.  Miss 
Barnes  and  I  stood  near.  The  Countess,  of 
course,  had  several  gowns  direct  from  Paris, 
just  as  received  from  Monsieur  Worth;  and 
Lady  Emily  everything  new,  you  may  say, 
never  before  having  worn  anything  but  the 
simplest  frocks.  The  soft  white  paper  was  still 
inside  the  bodies,  and  the  skirts  fastened  firm 
with  tapes,  which  Miss  Barnes  insisted  must  on 
no  account  be  touched.  Good-naturedly  yield- 
ing, one  of  the  men  just  pulled  things  about  a 
bit,  turning  up  the  tray  corners.  A  younger 
man  standing  by,  commented  behind  his  hand, 

"  Looks  like  swell  dressmaking  trade,  Mur- 

23 


24     TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

phy;  "  but  the  elder  man  shook  his  head.  I 
was  glad  Mr.  Stubbs  did  not  hear  this  remark. 

When  it  came  to  the  jewels,  they  actually 
were  taken  somewhere  for  a  day  or  more.  Mr. 
Stubbs  never  did  tell  what  the  Earl  said  regard- 
ing this.  The  Countess  brought  to  the  States 
her  pearls  only,  and  a  few  hair  ornaments  that 
had  belonged  to  her  aunt,  a  noted  traveller  who 
had  some  of  the  family  heirlooms  copied  in  paste 
(though  no  human  being,  short  of  a  jeweller, 
could  have  told  them  from  real),  fearing  to  risk 
the  old  gems  in  moving  about.  These  were  with 
the  few  gifts  that  had  been  brought  at  Lord 
Glamorden's  special  request,  by  the  last  post. 
Miss  Barnes  packed  them  according  to  her  lady- 
ship's instructions,  and  the  Countess  had  for- 
gotten to  mention  this  to  the  Earl,  who,  natu- 
rally, was  surprised  himself,  to  see  the  cases  of 
new  trinkets. 

Miss  Barnes  heard  his  lordship  say  to  one 
who  looked  like  the  chief  official,  —  Inspector, 
they  called  him,  —  that  no  doubt  he  had  not 
exceeded  his  instructions,  but  the  Government 
appeared  to  wish  to  exclude  respectable  people 
from  visiting  the  country,  subjecting  them  to 
such  annoyances;  that  the  system  was  simply 
monstrous  for  a  civilized  country  claiming  to  be 
free. 

Standing  just  behind  us  was  a  sweet-faced 
lady,  apparently  in  distress.  Seeing  she  was 
almost  sobbing,  I  could  not  refrain  from  asking 
"  Can  I  help  you,  Madam? "  It  was  kindly 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID     25 

meant,  she  saw,  and  then  told  me  she  was  re- 
turning, alone,  to  her  native  land  for  the  first 
time,  having  lived  near  Edinburgh  since  she  was 
an  infant,  marrying  there  a  Scotchman;  they 
had  together  gone  to  his  ranch  in  one  of  the 
Southern  States,  —  Texas.  Important  business 
summoned  one  of  them  to  Scotland,  and  it  being 
impossible  for  her  husband  to  leave  the  farm,  she 
went  alone.  Just  as  she  was  returning,  word 
came  of  their  child's  serious  illness.  Now  she 
was  sure  she  would  miss  the  train  and  not  see 
her  little  girl  at  all,  perhaps;  for  although  try- 
ing to  remember  everything  in  her  trunk,  she 
had  forgotten  the  toys  for  her  child,  and  these, 
happening  to  be  nailed  in  a  wooden  box,  the 
officer  had  taken,  saying  he  must  see  the  head 
inspector.  Nothing  could  be  done,  but  later  I 
was  thankful  to  see  her  hurrying  off,  and  did 
hope  she  reached  her  little  girl  in  time. 

Before  they  finished  examining  the  luggage, 
word  came  that  the  Viscount  was  on  the  pier. 
His  lordship  had  beeen  yachting,  the  wind  gave 
out,  and  he  had  walked  miles  across  the  Long 
Island,  finally  managing  to  flag  the  slowest  of 
trains,  at  some  hamlet,  or  cross-road.  His  lord- 
ship was  in  despair  at  being  so  late  —  awfully 
cut  up,  he  said ;  but  did  everything  in  his  power, 
short  of  swimming  the  bay,  in  order  to  be  on  time 
for  the  steamer's  arrival. 

The  officials  having  finished  with  the  luggage, 
Lord  Glamorden,  with  the  Earl,  the  Countess 
and  Lady  Emily,  started  in  a  private  carriage, 


for  the  bride's  house,  where  they  were  to  remain. 
Miss  Barnes  and  I  followed  in  a  cab,  Mr.  Stubbs 
on  the  box.  Passing  through  many  not  over- 
clean  streets,  under  a  roaring  place,  —  the  ele- 
vated, —  we  came  into  a  nice  square,  with  a 
marble  arch  like  ours  in  Hyde  Park;  then  on 
and  on;  crowds  hurrying  along,  in  heat  like  that 
of  a  London  August,  up  the  Fifth  Avenue,  our 
cabman  said,  finally  stopping  at  a  fine,  new 
house  where  Barnes  was  directed  to  remain  with 
the  Countess;  and  Mr.  Stubbs  and  I  were  sent 
to  a  large  hotel,  near  in  distance,  but  very  high 
in  the  air. 

It  was  nearly  dark  by  the  time  we  reached 
the  hotel  entrance;  and  as  I  followed  Mr. 
Stubbs  in,  a  young  man  immediately  came  for- 
ward, saying,  "  This  way,  please,"  opening  the 
door  into  a  small  room,  hardly  as  large  as  the 
cabins  we  had  just  left.  The  door  closed  in- 
stantly, and  we  were  shooting  up  as  though  we 
could  never  stop  again.  The  start  was  so  sudden 
I  could  not  help  grasping  Mr.  Stubbs's  arm, 
and  not  a  word  was  spoken,  although  he  turned 
pale,  I  thought;  but  in  a  moment,  the  boy,  who 
had  been  working  a  bit  of  iron  rope  and  look- 
ing at  me  in  the  mirror,  said,  "Here  you  are; 
fifteenth  floor."  The  young  man  who  first  spoke 
to  us  got  out,  putting  keys  into  the  doors  of 
two  nice  rooms.  For  a  long  time  I  could  not 
look  out  of  the  windows  at  all,  we  were  that 
high  from  the  ground;  it  made  one  giddy  to  see 
the  streets  and  the  people  so  far  below. 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID     27 

In  half  an  hour  we  were  to  unpack  what 
was  needed  by  the  Earl  and  Lady  Emily  for 
the  night,  said  Mr.  Stubbs,  after  I  had  tidied 
myself.  The  same  pleasant  man  who  met  us 
when  we  came  in  showed  the  way,  walking  with 
us  to  the  door,  warding  off  the  motor  cars  and 
bicycles  that  seemed  to  have  the  right  of  way  to 
go  through  the  thronged  streets  as  they  pleased. 

Being  told  that  Lady  Emily  would  not  need 
me  until  eight  the  next  morning,  I  was  thankful 
enough  to  get  to  bed  and  be  on  solid  land  again. 


CHAPTER   VII 

THOUGH  the  Earl  and  Countess  were  in  New 
York  but  a  few  days  before  the  wedding,  sev- 
eral splendid  entertainments  were  given  in  their 
honour.  After  one  of  these,  Mr.  Stubbs  heard 
his  lordship  say  to  the  Countess,  -  "  Mark  my 
words,  Augusta,  if  this  love  of  display  and  lux- 
ury continues,  another  generation  will  see  a 
monarchy  here."  Lady  Emily,  however,  at- 
tended none  of  these  affairs,  as  she  had  not  yet 
been  presented  at  their  Majesties'  court.  Re- 
peatedly I  was  sent  with  her  to  see  the  sights; 
Mr.  Stubbs  following  in  another  hansom,  or  for 
walks  in  the  Park,  where  the  bird-house  was 
always  an  attraction;  not  nearly  so  big  or  noisy 
as  at  the  Zoo;  but  here  Lady  Emily  liked 
watching  the  macaws,  or  a  monster  yellow 
crested  Australian  cockatoo;  he  kept  this  adorn- 
ment moving  up  and  down,  rolling  his  black 
eyes  very  amusingly.  A  huge,  clumsy  blue 
bird,  in  the  same  cage,  enjoyed  being  talked 
to,  and  would  always  reply,  the  keeper,  who  had 
charge  of  the  birds  for  many  years,  said. 

We  drove  to  a  beautiful  hill  by  the  riverside, 
to  see  the  tomb  of  a  great  general;  and  once  to 
the  Aquarium,  an  interesting  place  where  won- 

28 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID     29 

derful  fishes  are  kept  in  immense  glass  tanks; 
miles  from  the  Park,  but  well  worth  seeing,  Lady 
Emily  thought,  and  near  here  the  first  Dutch 
settlers  in  New  York  lived,  and  built  their  for- 
tress. 

A  cousin  of  Mr.  Stubbs,  an  extremely  ob- 
serving man,  has  been  butler  for  ten  years,  —  a 
long  time  this  is  considered  in  America,  —  in  a 
very  nice  family,  living  near  the  Fifth  Avenue. 
This  cousin  tells  Mr.  Stubbs  a  good  deal  re- 
specting manners  and  customs,  different  in  many 
ways  from  ours;  higher  wages,  but  more  to  pay 
out,  and  changing  continually,  you  may  say, 
and  living  beyond  their  means  striving  to  keep 
up  appearances.  In  more  than  one  house  where 
he  lived  before  getting  the  steady  place,  the 
people  did  not  seem  to  know  what  was  due 
themselves,  and  had  no  idea  as  to  the  rights  of 
servants;  that,  of  course,  meant  endless  worri- 
ment  for  all  parties. 

In  New  York  one  hears  much  exciting  talk 
about  Wall  Street;  for  ever  hurrying  off  or 
coming  back  from  the  Exchange,  and  where  our 
gentlemen  would  discuss  the  latest  hunting  news, 
Cabinet  changes,  Court  doings,  or  the  wars  go- 
ing on  in  every  part  of  the  world,  Americans 
talked  about  stocks,  or  a  queer  assortment  of 
beasts,  —  bears  and  bulls.  The  cousin  later 
learned  this  to  be  a  very  nerve- jading  business 
they  are  clever  at.  They  talk  of  their  high- 
stepping  horses,  also,  but  most  of  the  stepping, 
shaking  of  the  head  and  foaming  at  the  mouth 


30     TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

comes  from  sheer  cruelty  —  using  bits  such  as 
our  coachman,  Mr.  Hobson,  would  not  tolerate 
in  his  horses'  mouths  for  a  moment;  and  bear- 
ing reins  that  are  simply  torturing  contrivances. 
Seeing  people  rolling  complacently  along  behind 
such  poor  tormented  brutes,  smiling,  and  proud 
of  their  prancing,  is  a  sight  sickening  to  them 
that  know.  Many  of  the  omnibus  horses  are  a 
wretched  lot,  Mr.  Stubbs  himself  observed;  and 
as  for  those  put  before  carriers'  vans,  and  drays, 
some  were  only  fit  for  the  knackers.  He  wishes 
laws  might  be  enforced  against  crowding  the 
trams;  he  seldom  gets  a  seat,  and  naturally 
being  a  very  polite  brought-up  man,  it  is  most 
unpleasant  knocking  a  row  of  hats  off  people's 
heads,  owing  to  unexpected  starts  and  lurches 
of  the  tram.  Once,  landing  for  a  moment  upon 
the  knees  of  a  stout  man  who  was  reading  a  Ger- 
man paper,  the  language  used  was  unfit  to  re- 
peat, he  felt  sure  from  the  person's  manner, 
though  not  understanding  a  word  said. 


CHAPTER   VIII 

A  MORE  beautiful  day  for  a  wedding  could 
scarcely  have  been  desired.  Lord  Glamorden 
himself  gave  Mr.  Stubbs  three  small  cards,  di- 
recting him  to  show  these  to  the  policeman 
standing  outside  the  church.  When  our  ladies 
were  dressed,  we  started  out  with  Mr.  Stubbs. 
Oh,  such  a  crush!  not  guests,  of  course,  but 
people  pulling,  pushing  and  struggling  to  get 
near  the  awnings  leading  to  the  church  doors. 
Mr.  Stubbs  was  most  determined  in  helping  us 
on,  acknowledging,  however,  he  had  never  seen 
such  a  mob  of  women  who  might  be  called  re- 
spectable. Crowding  at  the  Queen's  Jubilee  was 
bad  enough,  but  with  men  one  can  push  back, 
as  he  could  not  think  of  doing  with  women. 

Once  inside  the  church,  —  Mr.  Stubbs  clasp- 
ing Miss  Barnes's  hand,  as  he  forced  a  way 
through  the  crowd  and  charging  her  not  to 
let  go  of  mine,  —  the  sight  was  charming ;  gar- 
lands of  roses,  creepers  and  other  foliage  were 
twined  around  the  pillars  and  altar,  lovely  white 
roses,  only,  upon  it.  The  ladies  were  extremely 
handsome  and  smiling,  —  a  little  more  hurried 
in  their  ways  than  our  English  ladies,  but  most 
kind-appearing. 

31 


32     TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

Lord  Glamorden  stood  on  the  chancel  steps, 
his  lordship's  cousin,  a  captain  in  the  Coldstream 
Guards,  beside  him  as  best  man,  looking  so 
happy,  and  as  if  a  hundred  years  of  joy  were 
before  him.  A  few  minutes  later  the  bridal 
party  entered;  from  our  places,  well  forward  in 
one  of  the  side  aisles,  we  had.  an  excellent  view 
of  the  procession;  the  music  was  grand,  with 
harps  sounding  out  above  the  organ. 

We  all  agreed  that  our  young  lady  was  by 
far  the  loveliest  of  the  bridesmaids,  and  their 
dresses  of  rose  silk  muslin  and  large  tulle  hats, 
with  satin  bows  and  plumes,  were  most  becom- 
ing. The  shower  bouquets,  moss  roses  and  lilies 
of  the  valley  were  the  sweetest  things  I  had 
ever  seen;  and  a  handsomer,  happier  couple 
than  the  bride  and  bridegroom  could  not  be 
imagined. 

As  we  were  leaving  the  church,  Miss  Barnes 
said,  —  knowing  she  would  not  be  wanted,  on 
account  of  the  wedding  breakfast  and  birthday 
speeches,  —  she  would  come  to  my  room  and 
search  for  the  Countess's  kodak,  which  had  been 
mislaid  on  leaving  the  ship,  and  might  be  inside 
a  roll  of  unopened  rugs  that  had  been  sent  to 
the  hotel  by  mistake. 

As  soon  as  we  were  free  from  the  crowds  out- 
side the  awnings,  Mr.  Stubbs  sighed  dismally, 
and  casting  guardedly  melancholy  glances 
toward  Miss  Barnes,  asserted  he  never  could 
rightly  decide  which  were  the  most  affecting, 
—  funerals  or  weddings.  Sometimes  he  felt 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S   MAID     33 

surer  as  to  the  former  than  he  did  about  how 
the  marrying  would  turn  out;  "a  leap  in  the 
dark  at  best,"  but  every  woman  is  happier,  he 
believed,  for  trying  it  at  least  once.  Miss 
Barnes  took  him  up  very  sharp,  retorting,  re- 
bukingly,  she  would  not  listen  to  his  gloomy 
talk;  such  views  were  absurd,  and  that  he  must 
still  be  suffering  from  the  effects  of  the  sea. 
Ignoring  these  rather  personal  allusions,  as  we 
crossed  the  street,  Mr.  Stubbs  came  over  to  my 
side  remarking,  he  wondered  if  I  knew  what  it 
is  that  neither  time  nor  travel  improves,  and 
that  gets  shorter  as  it  grows  older.  I  replied, 
of  course,  I  did  not  know;  I  could  not  help 
having  an  idea  of  his  meaning,  however,  when 
he  added  that  he  was  not  thinking  of  a  candle, 
this  time,  but  of  some  people's  tempers. 

Mr.  Stubbs  insisted  politely  upon  seeing  us 
into  the  lift,  having  rather  a  disappointed  look 
when  Miss  Barnes  quietly  remarked,  it  was  more 
rapid  than  some,  but  she  found  it  exhilarating, 
and  was  reminded  of  tobogganing  and  those 
water-chutes  at  the  Exhibition. 


CHAPTER   IX 

THE  Earl  had  planned  a  visit  to  Washington 
wishing  to  meet  the  President  —  one  of  the  best 
since  the  first,  who  was  of  good  English  stock, 
said  his  lordship.  Hearing  through  our  Em- 
bassy that  the  palace  was  closed,  Mr.  Stubbs 
thought  the  trip  given  up,  the  President,  with 
part  of  the  court,  having  left  for  Oysters-on-the- 
Bay. 

The  day  following  the  wedding  his  lordship 
told  Mr.  Stubbs  what  already  he  had  suspected, 
—  that  we  were  to  go  straight  on,  around  the 
world.  This  plan  had  been  considered  by  the 
Earl  and  Countess,  but  not  knowing  how  the 
sea-voyage  would  agree  with  her  ladyship,  defin- 
ite decision  regarding  going  beyond  the  States 
was  deferred  until  just  before  the  wedding. 
Miss  Barnes  was  directed  to  pack  one  or  two 
boxes  for  England,  with  articles  not  wanted  in 
travelling;  the  Countess  giving  her  leave  for  a 
fortnight  to  visit  a  niece  in  Canada,  married, 
as  second  wife,  to  the  Governor-General's  gar- 
dener. After  seeing  these  relatives,  she  was 
told  to  go  direct  to  the  Pacific  coast,  —  to  San 
Francisco. 

On  returning  from  helping  Miss  Barnes  off, 

34 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID     35 

Mr.  Stubbs  appeared  rather  cast  down,  but 
kindly  said  he  was  sure  I  would  do  all  and  more 
than  could  be  expected  of  me,  and  something 
about  "  two's  being  company,"  after  all.  He 
remarked,  also,  it  was  astonishing  how  some 
people  seem  born  incurably  obstinate,  without 
appreciation,  appearing  to  keep  their  hearts  in 
a  sort  of  cold  storage,  and  hardly  knowing  when 
the  best  is  offered;  that  he  was  a  man  capable 
of  taking  a  hint,  however,  no  need  of  telling 
him  a  thing  twice,  he  was  glad  to  say;  but  the 
ideas  and  ways  of  some,  especially  women,  he 
was  bound  to  say  pass  comprehending;  and  as 
for  feelings  of  true  affection,  and  the  like,  he 
doubted  if  some  were  capable  of  such  emotions. 

Early  the  next  morning  we  started  from  a 
station  quite  close  to  the  Fifth  Avenue.  There 
would  be  no  second  class,  his  lordship  thought, 
on  railways  in  the  States,  but  later  found  there 
is,  though  not  called  just  that. 

After  Mr.  Stubbs  booked  the  luggage  we  had 
our  hands  full  with  the  bags.  There  were  no 
railway  porters,  though  one  or  two  men  in  red 
caps,  standing  near,  offered  to  help.  I  made 
sure  these  were  Salvationists;  Mr.  Stubbs  re- 
plied, not  the  real  kind,  but  might  be  considered 
as  sort  of  "  savers."  This  I  did  not  understand 
and  he  remarked,  it  was  owing  to  my  having 
been  born  Scotch;  that  none  north  of  the  border 
can  comprehend  a  joke. 

Inside  the  station  we  had  to  walk  a  great  dis- 
tance to  the  train.  "  They  are  indeed  long- 


36     TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

suffering  people  in  New  York,  to  put  up  with 
such  imposition,"  I  heard  the  Earl  say.  Mr. 
Stubbs  and  I  were  directed  to  a  blue  velvet  sofa, 
in  a  long  railway  carriage,  behind  chairs  where 
the  Earl  and  Countess,  with  Lady  Emily,  were 
seated. 

His  lordship  thought  little  of  the  scenery,  but 
Mr.  Stubbs  found  it  entertaining  watching  for 
that  boy  driving  geese;  some  small  black  twins 
inviting  people  to  let  them  do  the  work;  a  tall 
person  in  yellow  robes,  and  other  fanciful 
scenes,  with  notices  quite  different  from  any  our 
Mr.  Coleman,  or  the  Monkey  brand  allows. 
Lady  Emily  considers  some  of  the  advertising 
most  unpleasant,  and  wonders  the  parish  author- 
ities permit  public  highways  to  be  so  disfigured. 
Some  good  people  too,  might  be  rather  mis- 
guided, she  feared,  in  posting  sentences  like, 
"  Prepare  for  Eternity,"  in  places  where  they 
are  liable  to  be  followed,  as  her  ladyship  saw  on 
one  wall,  with  such  injunctions  as,  "  Try  Scour- 
ine." 

After  two  hours  in  the  train  we  reached  New 
Haven;  a  noted  place  for  study  and  sports, 
Lady  Emily  believed.  His  lordship  wished  to 
stop  there,  many  relatives  connected  with  old 
New  England  days  having  lived  in  this  town, 
and  one,  a  Mistress  Harlakeden  (for  so  ladies 
were  then  called,  the  Countess  said)  had  mar- 
ried an  early  Governor  of  the  Province,  and 
was  buried  near  the  old  church. 


CHAPTER   X 

WE  were  directed  to  go  through  to  Boston 
and  have  everything  ready  at  the  hotel  by  nine 
o'clock,  when  the  Earl  and  the  ladies  would 
reach  there.  The  Earl  had  been  keen  to  stop 
at  a  place  called  the  New  Port,  but  the  Countess 
begged  not  to  do  so,  fearing  it  "  hardly  safe  for 
so  young  a  lady  as  Lady  Emily."  We  knew 
Indians  had  long  ago  left  these  parts,  but 
thought,  hearing  it  was  a  bathing  resort  by  the 
sea,  there  might  be  high  tides,  or  a  treacherous 
beach;  but  Miss  Barnes,  who  knows  everything, 
insists  the  doings  there  in  society  are  quite  un- 
suitable for  young  ladies  who  have  not  yet  been 
presented. 

On  coming  back  to  the  hotel  the  following 
noon,  the  Earl  and  Countess  seemed  delighted 
with  Boston,  changing  their  plans  in  order  to 
remain  the  better  part  of  a  week. 

Mr.  Stubbs,  who  had  been  on  the  box,  when 
driving  about  the  town,  found  the  place  sensi- 
ble enough;  not  so  distracting  with  noise  as 
New  York;  but  the  cabman  did  go  on  so  about 
a  bit  of  green,  called  the  Common,  and  more 
than  once  took  them  for  different  views  of  a 
monument,  well  enough  to  look  at;  but  no  call 

37 


38     TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

whatever  for  climbing  it,  as  the  coachman  al- 
most insisted  should  be  done. 

Later  I  saw  Mr.  Stubbs  was  right  in  what 
he  had  remarked,  for  hastening  to  the  cab  that 
afternoon,  —  my  lady  having  forgotten  her  par- 
asol, —  I  did  hear  the  cabman  say,  just  as  the 
Earl  stepped  into  the  cab,  — "  Shall  I  drive 
you  to  Bunker  Hill  Monument,  sir? "  His 
lordship  replied,  quite  short,  — "  No,  no,  my 
good  fellow;  we  have  been  there  twice  already; 
drive  to  the  nearest  station  for  Cambridge." 
Then  turning  to  the  Countess,  his  lordship 
added,  "  It  is  incredible,  this  talk  about  that  hill 
once  owned  by  a  loyal  Englishman  named  Bun- 
ker." 

Having  been  given  leave  for  the  afternoon, 
as  Mr.  Stubbs  and  I  were  going  towards  a  beau- 
tiful library,  near  that  church  where  a  greatly 
beloved  and  mourned  Bishop  —  who  more  than 
once  came  to  England  and  preached  before  our 
Queen  —  used  to  preach,  Mr.  Stubbs  went  over 
the  story  again,  telling  me,  as  he  kindly  ex- 
plained the  history  of  it  all;  how,  long  ago,  the 
Colonies  rebelled  against  their  lawful  rulers, 
finding  fault  with  those  in  high  places  of  au- 
thority, going  so  far  as  to  throw  overboard,  as 
though  in  the  very  face  of  Royalty,  the  tea  they 
had  sent,  as  well  as  doing  many  other  most  in- 
subordinate acts;  inciting  discords  and  mobs 
here  and  there,  so  that  generals  of  highest  rank, 
commanding  armies,  were  sent  over  from  Eng- 
land to  quell  the  disturbance;  but  these  finally 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID     39 

decided  to  leave,  Germans,  or  Dutch  and  some 
Indian  tribes  having  mixed  in  the  quarrel;  con- 
sequently our  troops  and  generals  returned  to 
the  old  country. 

Being  something  of  a  student  himself,  Mr. 
Stubbs  is  of  opinion,  though  by  no  means  going 
so  far  as  to  be  thought  a  radical  or  free  thinker, 
that  perhaps  the  Colonials  did  have  some  griev- 
ances; but  he  could  not  go  far  enough  to  assert 
they  were  justified  in  casting  away  that  tea,  no 
matter  what  the  quality,  —  ordinary  Ceylon,  or 
the  best  India.  He  also  has  observed  that  ladies 
and  gentlemen  in  the  States  never  appear  to 
depend  on  tea,  as  our  ladies  and  gentlemen  do. 

From  what  he  has  heard,  Mr.  Stubbs  believes 
most  of  the  fighting  occurred  where  that  monu- 
ment has  been  set  up;  for  himself,  he  always 
holds  there  is  right  on  both  sides,  and  brave 
men,  too. 

I  had  no  knowledge  of  these  events,  of  course, 
but  hearing  the  Countess  reading  to  Lady 
Emily,  what  the  blind  poet,  Milton,  wrote  con- 
cerning one  of  her  ancestors  who  long  ago  gov- 
erned, or  ruled,  this  part  of  the  country,  — 

"  Vane,  young  in  years,  but  in  sage  counsel  old, 
Than  whom  a  better  senator  ne'er  held  the  helm 
of  Rome." 

I  knew  there  must  be  connecting  links  between 
those  times  and  our  people. 


CHAPTER   XI 

AN  early  start  was  made  the  next  morning, 
his  lordship  being  most  anxious  to  see  some  place 
in  the  country  often  talked  of  by  the  old  Earl, 
the  home  of  an  American  gentleman,  one  of  the 
greatest  thinkers  who  ever  lived,  I,  myself,  heard 
the  Earl  say.  This  gentleman  had  been  in  Eng- 
land, our  Earl  remembering  well  the  pleasure 
that  visit  gave  to  the  late  Earl,  his  father,  and 
how,  for  years,  letters  came  and  went  between 
them. 

It  being  a  clear,  warm  morning  the  Countess 
wore  a  dust  cloak,  taking  no  other  wrap.  His 
lordship  directed  dinner  to  be  served  in  their 
own  dining-room  at  eight  o'clock,  saying  they 
would  not  return  for  tea.  After  setting  things 
to  rights,  Mr.  Stubbs  and  I,  being  free  for  the 
day,  went  to  the  seashore,  not  far  distant,  and 
ate  there  a  peculiar  stew-like  mixture  of  fish 
and  many  other  things,  known  as  chowder;  not 
just  to  my  taste,  I  must  say,  though  Mr.  Stubbs 
did  have  two  helpings;  kindly  proposing  straw- 
berry ice  then,  and  the  merry-go-round;  this  I 
enjoyed,  though  rather  reminded  of  those  first 
days  on  shipboard. 

About  seven  o'clock  we  expected  his  lordship 

40 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID     41 

and  our  ladies  every  minute;  Mr.  Stubbs  having 
been  in  and  out  the  corridors  and  down  to  the 
door  repeatedly  looking  for  them;  was  finally 
told  the  train  might  be  late,  owing  to  the  day 
being  the  Fourth  of  July,  when,  it  seems,  some- 
thing like  "  Independence "  is  celebrated  in 
America,  a  sort  of  Guy  Fawkes  day,  but  with 
saluting  and  flags,  as  on  the  King's  birthday. 

We  waited,  quite  uncomfortable,  until  after 
ten,  fearing  something  was  wrong;  when  the 
hotel  manager  sent  up  a  telegram,  adding  it  had 
been  delayed  on  account  of  his  having  gone  for 
a  sail  to  celebrate  the  day,  with  the  musical 
society  of  which  he  was  a  member.  The  tele- 
gram read,  — 

"  Unpardonably  detained.  Tell  my  man  we 
return  to-morrow." 

Then  we  knew  there  must  have  been  some  un- 
pleasant occurrence,  and  I  could  not  sleep  think- 
ing of  what  it  might  be,  and  wondering  how  the 
Countess  and  Lady  Emily  could  manage  with- 
out their  dressing-cases,  to  say  nothing  of  all 
the  other  things  needed  for  the  night;  but  there 
is  no  use  worrying,  as  Mr.  Stubbs  said  in  the 
morning. 


CHAPTER   XII 


IT  was  well  on  towards  two  o'clock  when  his 
lordship  arrived,  and  would  not  hear  of  having 
luncheon  until  he  had  seen  the  young  man  from 
the  hotel  office.  He  was  sent  for,  and  Mr. 
Stubbs  heard  his  lordship  directing  him  to  close 
the  dining-room  door;  that  was  about  all  he 
learned  until  later;  then  everything  was  ex- 
)lained.  The  Earl,  it  seems,  himself  stopped  at 
the  hotel  office  and  said  he  wanted  tickets  for 
Concord,  —  the  place  where  that  American  gen- 
tleman, the  late  Earl's  friend,  had  lived;  the 
young  man  in  charge  replied,  he  would  send  the 
tickets  up  that  evening.  On  receiving  a  small 
envelope  with  three  tickets,  these,  naturally,  were 
not  looked  at  until  the  railway  station  was 
reached;  here  great  crowds  had  gathered  for 
cheap  excursion  trips  to  the  races,  and  other 
events  of  the  day,  so  that  his  lordship  became 
separated  from  the  Countess  and  Lady  Emily, 
they,  too,  being  pushed  and  jostled  in  a  most 
extraordinary  manner ;  finally  reaching  the  Con- 
cord train,  though  not  until  it  was  about  starting, 
"  dangerously,  inexcusably  crowded,"  was  the 
Earl's  comment,  with  people  even  hanging  on 
the  steps. 

42 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S   MAID     43 

When  at  last  they  got  upon  the  train,  the 
Earl  found  his  tickets  had  been  stolen,  or  possi- 
bly lost,  in  that  wretched  crowd.  Nearly  an 
hour  passed  before  a  guard  came  through  the 
carriages,  fairly  forcing  his  way;  seeming  to 
have  almost  no  authority;  said  he  had  never 
known  such  a  crowded  Fourth,  as,  aside  from 
the  holiday,  there  were  races,  baseball  matches 
and  the  opening  of  new  golf  links;  that  train 
was  usually  the  fastest  on  the  line;  what  delays 
might  come  that  day  he  could  not  say;  but 
hoped  the  worst  of  the  crowd  would  soon  be  off. 
Several  rather  rough-looking  lads  and  men  be- 
gan waving  flags,  and  tooting  noisily  on  long 
horns;  presently  a  cornet  sounded  above  the 
uproarious  commotion  playing  what  the  Earl 
thought  to  be  "  God  save  the  King,"  but  found, 
after  removing  his  hat,  it  was  something  about 
America,  though  the  tune  was  the  same  as  our 
National  Anthem. 

On  his  lordship's  explaining  regarding  their 
missing  tickets,  the  guard  said  he  must  ask  to 
have  some  small  sum  paid  as  fare;  but  was  sure 
the  railroad  company  would  make  it  all  right 
if  the  Earl  cared  to  write  particulars  to  the 
Boston  office.  He  was  most  civil  and  obliging, 
helping  them  off  at  Concord  —  the  crowd  hav- 
ing left  by  that  time  —  and  as  the  train  moved 
out  of  the  station,  called  a  cabman,  who,  he  de- 
clared, knew  everything  about  the  place,  and 
had  horses  that  could  be  depended  on  to  use 
their  four  legs. 


44     TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

As  they  were  getting  into  the  cab,  —  a  sort  of 
double  victoria,  Lady  Emily  said,  —  the  coach- 
man inquired  if  they  wished  to  see  the  town. 
The  Earl  replied,  "  Yes,"  and  having  three  or 
four  hours  before  the  up-train,  told  the  man  he 
could  drive  to  the  principal  sights,  before  stop- 
ping at  Mr.  Emerson's,  that  being  the  name 
of  the  old  Earl's  friend.  The  cabman  thought 
he  knew  the  house  (now  the  residence  of  a  noted 
author),  having  often  heard  his  twin  brother 
talk  of  driving  visitors  there.  This  brother,  it 
was  later  explained,  was  really  the  one  the  guard 
intended  should  drive,  not  knowing  he  was  off 
for  the  holiday,  having  been  chosen,  as  oldest  in 
descent  from  their  grandfather,  to  head  the  pro- 
cession and  raise  the  flag  in  their  native  village, 
forty  miles  away. 

The  Earl  fancied  Concord  would  be  smaller, 
more  rural  than  it  appeared  to  be.  After  driv- 
ing to  public  buildings  and  through  shaded 
streets  for  an  hour,  they  stopped  at  a  comfort- 
able house  not  far  from  the  road,  and  were  sur- 
prised to  find  it  looked  remarkably  new.  As 
they  were  questioning  the  coachman,  a  very 
pleasant-appearing  lady,  so  far  as  visible  be- 
neath a  large  sunshade,  spoke  to  them  from  a 
balcony,  and  on  the  Earl's  asking  if  the  house 
could  be  Mr.  Emerson's,  replied,  "  Oh,  no, 
surely  there  is  some  mistake.  The  Emerson 
house  is  miles  away  in  another  State." 

From  what  Lady  Emily  told  me,  his  lordship 
must  naturally  have  been  more  than  vexed  and 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S   MAID    45 

astonished  at  this  discovery;  but  the  lady  in  the 
balcony  kindly  explained  that  by  driving  a  few 
miles  they  could  connect  with  trains  for  the  right 
Concord,  without  returning  to  Boston.  The 
Countess  feared  this  might  be  too  fatiguing,  but 
the  lady  strongly  urged  their  going,  saying  most 
positively,  she  felt  sure  they  would  not  find  it 
an  unpleasant  experience,  and  much  nicer  than 
going  back  to  Boston.  His  lordship  was  rather 
pleased  to  agree,  and  the  lady,  from  the  balcony, 
directed  the  driver  regarding  the  route. 

After  long  travelling  over  roads  —  considered 
exceedingly  tedious  by  the  Countess,  —  they 
reached  a  small  station;  its  doors  were  locked; 
but  after  some  waiting  the  station  master  came 
from  a  nearby  house,  informing  them  they  had 
missed  the  express  by  twenty  minutes.  He 
thought,  however,  though  nowise  sure,  it  being 
the  Fourth  of  July,  that  what  he  called  an  "  ac- 
commodation "  would  be  along  in  less  than  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour.  The  Earl  inquired  if  they 
could  get  anything  to  eat;  the  man  replied  his 
folks  were  off  on  a  picnic,  but  they  were  welcome 
to  doughnuts,  huckleberries  and  milk.  The  Earl 
thanked  him,  although  uncertain  just  what  the 
man  intended  bringing  them;  he  returned  soon 
with  a  big  dish  of  small  round  cakes,  also  berries 
and  buttermilk. 

A  train  came  along  the  line  shortly  after  the 
time  mentioned,  less  crowded  than  the  one  out 
from  Boston,  but  again  there  were  boys  with 
flags  and  horns,  and  some  rather  startling  send- 


46     TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

ing  off  of  firecrackers.  The  Earl  found  her 
ladyship,  —  who  was  very  tired  by  the  many 
changes,  —  a  seat  by  herself ;  his  lordship  sat 
behind,  in  the  long  carriage,  with  Lady  Emily. 

At  the  next  station,  a  strange-appearing  fig- 
ure entered,  —  very  tall,  wearing  a  short  wool 
skirt  of  shepherd's  plaid,  a  black-bordered  white 
knitted  shawl,  and  a  boat-shaped  hat  trimmed 
with  red,  white  and  blue  ribbons,  which  partly 
covered  a  brown  wig.  Under  one  arm  she  held 
a  large,  speckled  fowl  with  fiercely  resentful 
eyes,  its  body  wrapped  in  an  old  military  cape. 
This  captive  bird,  —  later  spoken  of  as  a 
"  Plymouth  Rock,"  —  was  a  promised  gift  to 
her  brother-in-law. 

Seating  herself  beside  the  Countess,  though 
many  other  places  were  vacant,  after  prolonged, 
steady  gazing  at  her  ladyship,  this  odd  person 
exclaimed  abruptly  and  loudly,  "  I  am  Mrs. 
Pycroft  —  Mrs.  Peter  Pycroft  from  Babylon!" 
Her  ladyship  started,  in  some  alarm,  fearing 
the  woman  must  be  one  of  those  poor  demented 
creatures  who  fancy  themselves  the  Queen  of 
Sheba,  or  some  other  exalted  personage;  but 
concluded  no  harm  could  be  intended,  as  she 
continued,  "  You  are  from  Canada,  I  guess." 
When  the  Countess  kindly  replied,  "  No,  from 
England,"  this  peculiar  person  added,  "  I  should 
have  guessed  that  first;  but  it  seemed  far  away 
to  begin  with.  I  made  up  my  mind  you  were 
not  Bar  Harbour  folks,  nor  city  boarders  from 
Massachusetts."  Mrs.  Pycroft  kept  on  talking 


TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S   MAID     47 

in  a  most  extraordinary  way,  asking  many  ques- 
tions, and  giving  remarkable  details  of  diseases, 
accidents  connected  with  Fourth  of  July  excur- 
sions in  her  own  family,  and  other  disasters. 
This  I  learned  from  Lady  Emily,  who  was  so 
kind  as  often  to  tell  the  day's  adventures  when 
I  was  brushing  her  hair.  Some  ladies  read 
straight  through  brushing  and  braiding,  scarcely 
lifting  their  eyes,  or  exchanging  a  word  from 
beginning  to  end. 

The  Countess,  wearied  with  the  talk  and  heat, 
turned  toward  the  window,  closing  her  eyes.  At 
once  the  strange  person  put  down  two  paper 
bags  and  the  large  palm-leaf  fan  she  carried  in 
her  hand,  and  unfastening  a  black  silk  reticule 
from  a  cord  about  her  wrist,  remarked,  "  You 
do  look  considerable  het  up  and  powerful  pale 
and  peaked;  I  am  sure  one  of  my  pills  will  be 
good  for  you ;  no  one  knows  what  they  are  made 
of,  but  I  can  guarantee  they  are  all  right,  for 
my  own  first  cousin,  a  full-blooded  Indian, 
mixed  them  with  his  own  hands."  The  Countess 
protested  she  could  not  take  pills  without  the 
advice  of  a  medical  man,  and  that  it  was  only 
the  noise  and  heat  from  which  she  suffered.  To 
appease  this  formidable  person,  her  ladyship 
finally  accepted  a  peppermint  lozenge,  without 
which  and  "  Educators,"  the  stranger  declared  she 
never  travelled.  "  I'd  be  pleased  to  spare  you 
part  of  my  pop-corn,  but  it  got  flattened  out 
some  on  the  stage,  owing  to  Judge  Hetton's  set- 
ting on  it,  by  mistake,  most  of  the  way  from 


48     TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

Babylon ;  he's  hefty  —  takes  after  his  ma's  folks 
in  fleshing  up  —  has  the  most  pondrous  mind, 
too,  I  ever  saw;  our  State  House  boys  calls  him 
the  big  '  Ino,'  claiming  his  having  all  the  original 
markings,  and  winning  a  first-class  blue  ribbon 
prize  at  our  County  fair."  When  leaving  at  the 
next  station  she  turned  to  the  Earl,  saying, 
"  Now  that  I  know  you  folks  are  from  the 
British  Isles,  I  will  give  you  all  my  Educators, 
I  guess;  you  may  need  them  before  night;" 
and  dropping  a  package  of  small,  square  bis- 
cuits, with  that  name  stamped  upon  them,  into 
his  lordship's  lap,  departed  with  her  loudly 
cackling,  rebellious  charge,  before  reply  could 
be  made. 

Soon  queer  rattling  sounds  startled  everybody 
in  the  car,  many  passengers  thrusting  their  heads 
out  of  the  windows  or  rushing  to  the  doors  as  the 
train  came  to  a  dead  stop.  A  goods  train  ahead 
had  run  into  a  cow  and  calf,  derailing  one  of  the 
cars;  and  leaving  it  poised  on  the  edge  of  an 
embankment.  The  cow  was  killed,  but  the  calf 
escaped,  Lady  Emily  was  glad  to  say,  and  no 
other  lives  were  lost,  though  several  of  the  rail- 
way employees  were  badly  bruised  and  shaken  up 
by  the  collision. 


CHAPTER   XIII 

AFTER  a  long  delay  due  to  righting  the  lines, 
another  change  had  to  be  made  for  Concord. 
Realizing  they  would  be  very  late  getting  there, 
the  Earl  asked  an  official  —  not  the  guard,  but 
a  brakeman,  Lady  Emily  thought,  —  about  a 
suitable  place  to  stop  the  night.  The  man  re- 
plied he  would  direct  the  Earl  to  his  cousin's, 
and  pointed  out  from  the  car  window  a  substan- 
tial-appearing house  standing  well  back  from 
the  road,  shaded  by  beautiful  elms.  They  would 
be  comfortably  looked  after  there  the  man  re- 
marked, adding  the  train  would  "  slow  up  "  on 
making  the  next  curve,  before  getting  to  the 
station,  and  he  would  let  them  off  at  the  foot  of 
a  lane  five  minutes'  walk,  by  a  short  cut,  to  his 
cousin's  farm. 

As  a  terrific  thunder  storm  threatened,  the 
Earl  decided  accepting  his  advice  better  than 
attempting  to  find  the  inn,  but  even  in  that 
short  distance  to  the  house,  the  rain  coming  in 
great  sheets,  all  were  completely  drenched.  By 
the  time  the  door  was  reached  it  was  almost  dark 
and  the  house  seemed  closed.  On  the  Earl's  call- 
ing loudly,  a  fine  collie  ran  out  from  a  barn  near, 
followed  by  a  very  decent-appearing  man,  who 

49 


50     TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

quieted  the  dog's  excited  barking,  as  he  came 
towards  them,  a  lighted  lantern  in  his  hand. 
His  face,  clean-shaven,  they  could  see  in  the 
half  light,  and  his  age  apparently  sixty.  Show- 
ing them  into  a  nice  hall,  he  in  a  pleasant  way 
remarked,  he  was  sorry  to  say  his  family  had 
gone  to  a  lecture  at  the  town  hall  on  "  The  Bat- 
tle of  Bunker  Hill,  and  the  Defeat  of  the  Brit- 
ish near  Concord."  He  had  heard  the  lecture 
himself,  last  year,  and  would  have  gone  again 
to  see  those  living  pictures  (added  since  the  last 
Fourth)  had  not  a  valuable  horse  of  his  been 
shamefully  overdriven  on  an  excursion  that 
morning,  and  this  detained  him  when  his  folks 
started  for  the  lecture.  He  thought,  however, 
if  the  party  would  dry  themselves,  they  would 
still  be  in  time  for  the  best  part  of  the  show, 
to  his  mind,  the  routing  of  the  redcoats,  fol- 
lowed by  rockets. 

Thanking  the  man,  his  lordship  replied  that, 
having  made  an  early  start,  they  were  tired  and 
hungry;  could  a  meal  of  some  sort  be  provided? 
The  farmer  feared  there  was  almost  nothing  in 
the  house,  owing  to  his  people  having  been  off 
picnicking  in  honour  of  the  day;  but  on  his 
lordship's  explaining  that  after  many  delays, 
they  had  been  directed  there  by  the  farmer's 
cousin,  kindly  said  he  would  do  his  best,  and 
might,  at  least,  promise  the  finest  baked  beans 
and  gingerbread  to  be  had  in  New  England; 
"  though  my  wife  protests  when  I  get  started  on 
our  home  products,  there's  bound  to  be  more 


TRAVELS   OF  A   LADY'S   MAID     51 

boasting  than's  seemly,  maintaining  I  positively 
persecute  our  neighbours  when  we've  a  fine  bean 
or  cucumber  crop  through  offering  the  extra 
pickings;  folks  then  fairly  flee,  or  feign  not 
to  hear  when  I  get  talking  of  our  unusual  gath- 
ering of  meller  Baldwins,  fearing  being  pestered 
into  lugging  home  a  mess  of  apples,  they've  no 
earthly  use  for,  to  please  me. 

"Bless  me!  I  had  forgotten  how  wet  you 
must  be.  Come  right  into  the  kitchen  and  dry 
off  while  I  see  what  I  can  scare  up,"  adding 
good-naturedly,  "  Help  yourselves  to  wood  or 
anything  else  you  want;  I'll  be  back  soon." 

A  wide  fireplace  and  hearth  nearly  filled  one 
end  of  the  room,  though  the  cooking  was  usually 
done  in  a  small  adjoining  building  where  the 
range  stood;  several  windows  and  doors  opened 
on  a  nice  garden  with  trim  borders  of  flowers; 
pansies,  larkspur  and  carnations  enclosing  rows 
of  lettuce,  peas  and  other  vegetables. 

The  farmer  was  heard  stirring  about  whistling 
energetically  one  of  those  patriotic  tunes  the  men 
had  played  on  cornets  that  morning,  and  pres- 
ently came  up  from  the  cellar,  saying,  "  I  am  in 
luck,  they  have  left  most  of  a  cold  chicken.  I 
knew  there  would  be  pies;  take  your  choice, 
apple,  cherry  and  pie-plant."  Three  or  four 
nice  tarts  were  brought  with  the  chicken,  and 
tomatoes  and  cold  potatoes  made  into  a  salad, 
covered  with  excellent  mayonnaise,  always  kept 
on  hand,  he  said.  Drawing  one  of  the  tables 
nearer  the  fire,  then  blazing  pleasantly,  a  de- 


52     TRAVELS   OF   A  LADY'S   MAID 

lightful  meal  was  spread  upon  it  by  the  farmer, 
the  strawberry  jam  and  cream  quite  the  best 
Lady  Emily  had  ever  eaten.  Though  not  much 
accustomed  to  that  beverage,  his  lordship  chose 
the  cider,  brought  from  the  cellar,  fearing  that 
the  root  beer  offered  might  have  some  unpleas- 
ant effect.  The  Countess  asked  to  have  tea,  if 
it  was  not  giving  too  much  trouble,  and  getting 
it  without  delay,  her  ladyship  felt  more  comfort- 
able. 

When  this  decidedly  welcome  repast  was  fin- 
ished, the  farmer  remarked,  his  women  folks 
would  be  tired  enough  when  they  came  home, 
and  he  must  get  the  kitchen  to  rights;  the  Por- 
tuguese girl  who  did  their  heavy  work  having 
gone  to  visit  relatives  on  the  island  of  Nan- 
tucket,  where  she  belonged.  Taking  off  his  coat 
he  brought  a  big  pan,  and  filled  it  with  hot 
water.  Seating  himself  by  the  Earl,  who  had 
been  obliged  to  remove  his  coat  on  coming  in, 
as  it  was  soaked  through,  the  farmer  began 
washing  the  dishes,  and  Lady  Emily  insisted  on 
helping  him  dry  the  plates.  In  a  pleasant  way, 
he  remarked,  though  holding  firmly  to  those 
principles  of  the  temperance  folks,  believing 
they  were  sensible  views  to  live  by,  he  had  rather 
stood  out  against  signing  pledges,  on  account  of 
liberty,  and  liking  cider;  never  touching,  nor 
would  touch,  spirits  in  any  manner,  shape  or 
form;  he  had  however,  taken  a  kind  of  pledge, 
made  to  himself,  on  account  of  his  ancestors,  - 
that  each  Fourth  of  July  he  would  read  the 


TRAVELS   OF   A   LADY'S   MAID     53 

Declaration  of  Independence;  but  owing  to  his 
concern  about  that  horse  loaned  to  a  young 
minister,  or  one  studying  to  be  such,  who  should 
have  knowed  better  how  to  drive,  even  if  he 
were  hurrying  to  see  his  sweetheart,  the  Decla- 
ration had  gone  out  of  his  head.  He  would  take 
it  kindly  if  the  Earl  would  get  the  history  book 
from  under  the  Bible,  on  the  shelf,  and  read  it 
aloud  while  he  finished  the  washing  up.  This 
was  asked  so  courteously  his  lordship  at  once 
consented. 

After  listening  attentively,  Mr.  Hanlee  —  for 
that  was  the  farmer's  name  —  thanked  the  Earl, 
remarking  he  had  seldom  heard  the  Declaration 
read  better  or  with  more  feeling;  and  if  it  were 
not  so  late,  would  ask  him  to  try  the  "  Hosea 
Biglow  Papers,"  written  by  a  Mr.  Lowell,  who 
well  knew  what  he  was  about,  though  reading 
out  the  meaning  is  sometimes  not  just  easy.  He 
used  to  be  called  the  "  Poet  of  Democracy," 
understood  foreign  courts  and  ways  too,  know- 
ing how  to  value  such  follies,  but  liking  the 
company  met  there. 

"  Our  home  is  in  England,"  his  lordship  said, 
"  where  many  are  of  my  way  of  thinking,  that 
American  colonists  and  their  descendants  have 
given  an  object  lesson  to  the  world."  Mr. 
Hanlee  exclaimed,  "  Sakes  alive,  why  didn't  you 
say  so  before?  I've  been  so  busy,  foraging 
about,  hardly  had  a  chance  to  look  at  you,  but 
made  sure  you  were  from  York  State  —  one  of 
those  old  Knickerbockers,  perhaps.  We  do  have 


54     TRAVELS   OF  A   LADY'S   MAID 

them  along  every  year  or  so,  though  most  of 
them  live  so  much  here  and  there  in  foreign 
parts,  neither  they  nor  you  can  rightly  tell 
where  they  do  belong;  but  I  am  glad  you  are 
more  of  our  sort  than  the  Dutch,  —  honest, 
hard-working  people,  but  obstinate  in  their  opin- 
ions and  ways,  for  all  that.  My  wife's  folks 
hailed  from  Great  Britain  too;  she  will  be  glad 
to  tell  you  about  it  in  the  morning;  now  you'll 
be  wanting  to  go  to  your  rooms,  I'm  sure.  They 
are  fixed  all  right,  for  our  folks  are  expecting 
summer  boarders  next  week,  —  a  widow  and  her 
two  small  boys;  that  is,  if  they  ain't  blowed  up 
by  this  time  through  celebrating  of  the  Fourth. 
Last  year  the  eldest  was  so  desperate  over  fire- 
crackers and  cannon,  he  lost  a  finger,  and  nearly 
put  out  his  little  brother's  eye." 

The  Earl  and  Countess,  with  Lady  Emily, 
were  shown  up  a  short,  narrow  stairway;  on  the 
platform,  where  the  stairs  turned,  stood  an  old 
English  clock;  a  round  red  sun  painted  upon 
its  face,  and  below,  two  small  war  frigates 
moved  up  and  down  as  the  hands  went  round. 
Throughout  the  house  were  wood  wainscotings, 
painted  white,  and  the  freshest  of  muslin  cur- 
tains. 

Under  three  oval  windows  at  one  end  of  the 
upper  hall  was  a  cushioned  seat;  to  the  left  of 
these  windows  a  door  led  into  a  cheerful,  square 
room;  an  old-fashioned  bed  in  the  corner,  hav- 
ing a  fringed  white  canopy  supported  by  four 
slender  dark  wood  posts,  the  coverlet  was  freshly 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID     55 

laundered,  neat  matting  and  rugs  covered  the 
floor.  Above  the  fireplace  hung  a  long,  gilt- 
framed  mirror;  in  front  of  this  stood  two  Chi- 
nese jars,  one  holding  tiny  American  flags,  the 
other  filled  with  dried  grasses.  Opening  from 
this  chamber  was  one  smaller;  a  large  bay  win- 
dow with  many  plants,  made  it  almost  like  a 
conservatory;  and  doors  led  to  a  veranda,  re- 
cently added,  the  widow  liking  to  do  her  writing 
among  the  tree-tops,  Mr.  Hanlee  remarked,  and 
she  had  a  hard  battle  to  fight  alone,  until  those 
two  likely  little  chaps  were  old  enough  to  earn 
their  living.  To  the  north  of  the  passageway, 
a  large  room  held  two  small  iron  beds  for  the 
boys.  In  this  room  Lady  Emily  slept. 

Returning  to  fill  the  water  pitchers,  Mr.  Han- 
lee  said,  "  I'll  leave  you  each  a  candle,  I  guess. 
Wife  says  she  can't  bear  to  see  me  moving 
about  with  a  lamp  in  my  hands."  Hearing  a 
gate  close  quickly  and  voices  coming  near  he 
added,  "  my  folks  are  coming  now  and  will  fix 
you  people  all  right  for  the  night,  I  know." 
Hurrying  down  the  stairs  he  called  back, 
"  Speak  at  that  end  door  if  anything  is  wanted. 
We  live  in  the  new  part  of  the  house,  where  I 
have  all  modern  improvements,  to  please  my 
wife." 

A  few  minutes  later,  a  young  girl  knocked  at 
the  door,  bringing  neatly  folded  night  garments 
and  a  really  beautiful  bedroom  gown  of  em- 
broidered crepe.  Her  uncle,  an  agent  for  a 
great  sewing-machine  company,  had  brought  it 


56    TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S   MAID 

from  Japan,  she  said.  With  this  was  a  comb 
and  brush,  everything  required,  in  fact,  to  make 
the  Countess  and  Lady  Emily  comfortable  for 
the  night. 


CHAPTER   XIV 

WHEN  Lady  Emily  went  down,  early  the 
following  morning,  Mr.  Hanlee's  daughter  — 
the  young  girl  seen  the  previous  night  —  asked 
if  she  should  not  take  breakfast  up  to  the  Count- 
ess, who  still  felt  stiff  and  tired  from  yesterday's 
adventures.  The  Countess  was  much  pleased 
to  breakfast  in  the  little  sitting-room,  and  Lady 
Emily  thought  it  great  fun  holding  a  toasting- 
fork  before  the  fire,  and  making  the  toast.  Eggs 
were  served  in  a  china  hen;  and  seeing  there 
was  no  egg-cup,  —  only  a  small  glass  to  put 
the  eggs  in,  —  the  Earl  carved  a  nice  cup  out  of 
cheese,  fitting  it  into  the  glass  for  her  ladyship. 

After  breakfast  Lady  Emily  told  the  Count- 
ess she  had  discovered  that  all  the  pictures  in  her 
room  were  Yorkshire  scenes;  an  ancient  Abbey; 
the  Minster,  and  one  print  of  Harrowgate 
Springs  she  thought  might  have  been  cut  from 
a  book.  The  Earl,  much  interested,  said  he  must 
ask  Mr.  Hanlee  how  these  old  prints  came  to  be 
there. 

The  Countess  decided  to  rest  on  the  veranda 
until  it  was  time  to  leave  for  the  station  to  catch 
the  noon  train  for  Boston.  Mr.  Hanlee  himself 
would  drive  his  lordship  and  Lady  Emily  to 

67 


58     TRAVELS  OF   A  LADY'S  MAID 

see  the  town's  noted  places,  he  said.  Before 
starting,  the  Earl  saw  Mrs.  Hanlee  and  made 
a  surprising  discovery;  the  old  pictures,  it 
seems,  belonged  to  her  mother.  Her  grand- 
mother came  to  this  country  as  a  bride.  Mrs. 
Hanlee's  mother  knew  little  of  her  history,  the 
grandmother  having  died  when  her  own  mother 
was  about  thirteen.  She  did  know,  however,  — 
her  mother  having  repeatedly  told  her,  —  that 
she  was  an  orphan,  and  lived,  very  unhappily, 
with  her  only  brother;  so  unhappily  that  she 
ran  away  with,  and  married,  a  foreigner,  —  her 
music  or  dancing  master,  Mrs.  Hanlee  believed. 
They  came  to  Boston,  where  the  man,  becoming 
discouraged,  took  to  drink,  and  died  within  the 
year.  His  widow,  destitute,  and  scarcely  more 
than  a  child,  might  have  been  tempted  to  end, 
when  her  baby  came,  the  miserable  existence 
that  followed  her  hasty,  unfortunate  marriage, 
had  it  not  been  for  the  befriending  of  kind  peo- 
ple, who  sent  her  to  a  small  house  they  owned 
in  Concord,  giving  it  rent  free. 

Several  years  after  her  husband's  death,  she 
married  a  well-to-do  sea  captain  living  near,  a 
widower  with  one  son.  The  captain  was  the 
kindest  of  men;  so  a  few  years  of  tranquil  life 
came  before  her  last  illness.  Many  papers  and 
letters  were  then  destroyed,  but  the  old  pictures 
had  been  framed  by  the  captain,  who  was  handy 
at  most  everything.  With  the  quaintly  fash- 
ioned violet  and  white  silk  gown,  unworn  since 
her  youthful  days  in  England,  in  which  she 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID     59 

asked  to  be  buried,  was  found  a  prayer-book 
and  the  miniature  of  an  aged  lady  with  lovely 
snowy  hair.  On  the  white  linen  case  enclosing 
these,  worked  in  old-time  sampler  stitches,  were 
these  words:  "Dear  Grandmamma's  miniature 
and  cream- jug."  The  bag  contained  a  silver 
creamer,  and  in  the  prayer-book  was  written  in 
a  round,  childish  hand,  "  Elizabeth's  book  from 
dear  grandmother."  The  miniature  was  laid  in 
the  grandmother's  coffin,  as  she  had  directed 
should  be  done. 

The  Earl  inquired  if  the  silver  jug  was  still 
in  their  possession.  Mr.  Hanlee  replied  he 
would  fetch  it.  His  mother-in-law  having  set 
great  store  by  the  jug,  always  kept  it  on  an 
upper  shelf  of  their  china  closet;  but  after  her 
death,  when  their  Dorothy  was  not  much  more 
than  a  baby,  she  got  hold  of  it  in  some  way, 
when  cleaning  was  going  on,  and  threw  it  —  she 
had  a  bad  habit  of  throwing  things  —  into  the 
fire.  The  handle  was  seen  sticking  out  of  the 
gray  ashes,  otherwise  the  jug  would  have  been 
destroyed;  as  it  was,  only  a  bit  from  the  bottom 
was  melted  off. 

On  examining  the  creamer,  to  his  lordship's 
astonishment  he  found  engraven  upon  it  the 
arms  of  a  family  closely  allied  to  his  own,  and 
asking  the  grandmother's  family  name,  found 
it  to  be  what  he  thought;  and  the  hall  marks, 
though  somewhat  defaced  by  cleaning,  were 
early  Georgian. 


CHAPTER   XV 

IT  would  be  necessary  to  start  immediately 
if  they  intended  seeing  the  town  before  train 
time,  Mr.  Hanlee  said;  first  he  would  drive 
towards  Lake  Walden,  that  being  a  place  the 
late  Earl  had  spoken  of;  but  as  glimpses  of  it 
could  be  seen  from  the  train,  and  the  surround- 
ings were  so  greatly  changed  since  those  days 
when  the  gentleman  who  studied  Nature  camped 
there,  he  thought  it  would  hardly  pay  to  go  the 
whole  distance. 

While  driving,  Mr.  Hanlee  continued  telling 
the  story  of  his  wife's  mother.  '  When  she  was 
left  an  orphan,  her  stepfather,  the  sea-captain, 
sent  for  his  sister,  the  childless  widow  of  a  Bap- 
tist minister,  who  was  bringing  up  the  captain's 
only  child,  a  boy  fond  of  books,  so  he  was  al- 
lowed to  remain  with  his  aunt,  at  school  near 
Providence,  in  another  state.  After  the  sister 
and  boy  came,  again  there  was  pleasant  home 
life  for  the  girl,  who  had  a  very  vivacious  tem- 
perament. The  boy,  a  dreamy  sort  of  lad,  was 
fond  of  collecting  wild  flowers,  sorting  them  out 
and  getting  at  the  names;  forever  experiment- 
ing, too,  with  something;  electricity,  then  but 
little  known,  or  some  inventions;  and  deeply 

60 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID     61 

interested  in  that  Count  Rumford's  doings. 
(The  Count  was  born  in  a  neighbouring  town.) 
The  lad  liked  working  at  carpentry,  and  always 
was  trying  to  invent  queer  things;  one  time, 
a  flying  machine,  getting  at  some  results  besides 
bad  crippling  falls,  but  nothing  special  toward 
great  speed  or  high  mounting;  and  later,  a  bit 
to  stop  runaway  horses.  So  zealous  perfecting 
musical  instruments,  making  such  mysterious 
moanings  and  squeakings  at  unexpected  times 
and  places  neighbours  got  together  —  'twas  be- 
fore our  '  Search-Light  Club  '  started,  of  course, 
—  raking  over  and  comparing  those  old  Salem 
witch  doings. 

'  The  boy  loved  to  go  off  and  read  (knew 
Latin  and  some  Greek,  too)  in  lonely  places  by 
himself;  never  seemed  to  care  for  girls  or  other 
young  company;  so  it  surprised  all  when,  the 
spring  before  his  coming  of  age,  he  told  his 
father  he  wanted  to  marry  Hester,  —  my  wife's 
mother,  that  is,  —  and  that  Hester  had  con- 
sented, if  he  were  willing.  The  captain  was 
greatly  pleased  thus  to  settle  the  future  of  his 
ward,  who  had  half  the  young  fellows  in  the 
town  dangling  after  her,  for  she  was  extraordi- 
narily pretty  and  lively,  and  he  feared  trouble 
among  some  of  those  gay  young  men. 

"  Having  ample  means  laid  by  to  provide  for 
both,  within  a  year  the  captain  set  them  up  in 
a  new  cottage  on  his  own  farm,  where  they 
lived  most  happily.  Hester  was  simply  devoted 
to  that  quiet,  shy  man,  who  proved  himself  the 


62     TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

tenderest  of  husbands.  He  went  on  with  in- 
venting and  reading,  farming  some,  too,  and 
was  always  one  to  help  a  neighbour. 

'  Two  or  three  years  later,  when  a  little  daugh- 
ter was  born,  there  was  no  prouder  man  in  this 
county  than  the  captain.  After  that,  Hester's 
husband  got  strange  ideas  respecting  the  end 
of  the  world  being  near;  was  most  earnest 
about  it,  talking  more  on  this  subject  than  he 
ever  had  on  anything  else,  searching  the  Scrip- 
tures for  texts  and  clues  pointing  in  that  direc- 
tion; made  up  his  mind  to  eat  uncooked  foods 
and  quit  using  tobacco.  Finally,  many  others 
came  to  his  way  of  thinking;  they  made  great 
preparations,  going  so  far  as  to  get  ascension 
robes  ready,  believing  and  testifying  that  all 
would  come  true  in  their  day.  In  some  myste- 
rious manner,  these  ideas  spread  through  the 
state,  and  beyond;  believers  concluding  every- 
thing ripe  for  the  Lord's  coming,  set  a  special 
night,  assembling  together,  waiting  patiently 
for  the  appearing.  Finding  the  Lord  not  yet 
ready  was  a  terrible  disappointment,  most  over- 
whelming for  them,  good,  expectant  creatures, 
His  own  children  in  their  believing  acts,  if  not 
rightly  interpreting  the  times  and  seasons,  which 
no  man  knoweth. 

"  After  that  cruelly  disappointing  night,  arous- 
ing all  to  a  fever  of  expectancy,  Hester's  hus- 
band seemed  to  just  give  out;  his  eyesight  failed 
him;  the  poor  man  seldom  went  further  than 
the  porch,  finally  taking  to  his  room,  where  they 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID     63 

found  him,  early  one  morning,  seated  by  the 
burned-out  fire,  the  curtains  raised  as  though 
he  were  watching  for  daybreak,  his  hand  on  the 
open  Bible,  at  that  text,  '  Mine  eyes  shall  see 
the  King.' 

"  Shortly  after  he  passed  away,  Hester  and 
her  girl  went  back  to  her  stepfather's,  and  before 
long  closed  his  eyes,  too,  sad,  lonely  old  man! 
Not  many  years  later,  I  found  my  wife,  —  Hes- 
ter's daughter,  that  is,  —  and  brought  her  to  the 
house  where  we  now  live.  Grandfather  was  born 
there,  and  his  father  before  him  lived  at  the  old 
place." 

When  they  turned  toward  an  old  manse,  the 
Earl  expressed  great  interest  in  it  and  its  sur- 
roundings; they  also  stopped  near  a  bridge, 
seeing  a  monument  bearing  the  figure  of  a  sol- 
dier, and  reading  an  inscription  telling  that  the 
shots  fired  here  in  bygone  days,  "  echoed  round 
the  world." 

A  deserted-appearing  house  was  pointed  out 
by  Mr.  Hanlee;  chimneys  of  red  bricks  showed 
at  each  end,  above  the  maples  clustering  close 
to  the  eaves.  It  had  belonged  to  his  uncle,  he 
stated,  a  silent  sort  of  man,  meek,  but  set;  his 
wife  very  set,  too,  but  not  meek.  One  day  the 
husband  as  usual  went  to  milk  the  cows.  That 
was  the  last  seen  or  heard  of  him  for  just  three 
years,  when  he  plodded  into  the  kitchen  one 
morning,  a  pail  full  of  milk  in  each  hand,  at 
precisely  the  hour  he  had  gone  out,  three  years 
before;  handed  the  pails  to  his  wife,  and  sat 


64     TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

down  to  breakfast  without  saying  a  word  about 
having  been  away.  The  wife  was  most  close, 
too,  about  talking;  both,  good,  well-meaning 
people,  as  well  as  set.  If  asked  when  Uncle 
Si  —  his  name  was  Simon  —  would  be  home, 
always  replied,  business  was  detaining  him, 
though,  from  the  postmistress  being  one  of  the 
family,  all  in  town  knew  not  a  letter  had  come 
from  him  since  he  had  been  away,  and  'twas 
long  before  the  days  of  post-cards.  "  He  al- 
ways was  a  little  peculiar.  I  remember  the  boys 
shoutin'  after  him,  '  Swamp  ghost,  watch  out  for 
the  swamp  ghost.*  This  was  the  only  thing  that 
seemed  really  to  rile  and  pester  him,  for  he  were 
faded-out  looking  and  loose- jointed." 

"  Well,  folks  figured  it  out  this  way :  'twas 
just  after  the  donation  party  for  the  new  min- 
ister; and  some  declar'd,  while  she  was  off  ar- 
ranging that,  and  a  quilting  bee,  he  sold  the 
two-year-old,  hand-raised  heifer;  that  is,  traded 
it  off  —  he  always  was  looking  for  bargains,  but 
no  good  at  'em  —  with  a  Jew  peddler,  for  half 
a  wagonful  of  patent  mouse-traps;  clocks  that 
couldn't  tell  the  truth  but  once  a  day,  and  ther- 
mometers standing  at  ninety,  or  at  freezing,  the 
year  round.  The  peddler  did  say  —  so  we  heard 
from  a  neighbouring  house  where  he  stopped  - 
he  could  not  conscientiously  guarantee  them 
timepieces  for  more  than  a  year,  and  they  might 
expect  him  around  again  before  that  time. 
Others  declared  the  split  came  through  a  quarrel 
over  the  naming  of  their  youngest  child,  or  some 


TRAVELS   OF   A   LADY'S   MAID     65 

dispute  on  the  *  unpardonable  sin.'  None  ever 
did  have  the  satisfaction  of  getting  at  the  real 
cause  of  the  trouble,  nor  of  the  making  up;  but 
it  had  to  be  allowed  the  couple  lived  on  happy 
enough  till  a  backing  freight  train  struck  them, 
about  five  miles  from  here;  had  stood  a  long 
time  on  the  siding,  and  when  they  whistled  up 
steam,  'twas  natural  to  think  the  engine  would 
pull  forward;  but  it  didn't  —  it  backed,  and 
struck  the  shay.  The  old  mare,  a  slow  one  for 
moving  in  any  direction,  threw  one  out  each 
side,  just  as  they  were  in  the  middle  of  the 
tracks.  '  Painless  death,'  said  the  doctor,  for 
both  were  unconscious  when  picked  up;  never 
spoke  a  word,  though  living  till  evening." 


CHAPTER   XVI 

ON  their  way  to  a  beautiful  cemetery,  Lady 
Emily  inquired  the  names  of  the  horses.  "  Grant 
and  Lee,"  replied  Mr.  Hanlee,  and,  turning  to 
the  Earl  said,  "  If  you  know  anything  respect- 
ing our  late  unpleasantness,  the  Civil  War,  that 
is,  you  may  wonder  a  Northern  man  puts  these 
names  together  for  his  favourite  bays;  but  I 
tell  you,  sir,  in  my  opinion,  those  two  men  were 
about  the  best  there  was  of  the  war." 

Lady  Emily  was  extremely  interested  when 
Mr.  Hanlee  began  talking  of  the  war,  as  on 
shipboard,  and  whenever  she  gets  a  chance,  her 
ladyship  reads  American  history;  accounts  of 
those  awful  battles  between  the  North  and 
South,  to  the  Countess,  and  the  Earl's  intimate 
friend,  a  Count  of  Paris,  who  came  to  the  States 
at  that  time,  to  help,  or  watch  all  going  on, 
often  talked  over  these  events  with  his  lord- 
ship. Lady  Emily  tried  to  remember  every 
word,  and  has,  as  Fraulein  often  declares,  an 
amazing  memory  for  a  high-born  young  lady. 
Fraulein  felt  almost  concerned,  fearing  such 
memory  and  keen  desire  to  know  might  not 
always  be  convenient  for  her  ladyship.  In  all 
experiences,  both  in  Germany  and  England, 

66 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID     67 

with  young  ladies  of  highest  rank,  never  had 
she  encountered  a  memory  so  remarkable.  Her 
ladyship  has  a  way  of  catching  the  very  words 
and  tones,  you  may  say;  one  would  almost 
think  Fraulein  herself  speaking,  in  not  just 
plain  English,  when  Lady  Emily  told  of  les- 
sons or  walks  with  her. 

Mr.  Hanlee  continued,  "  Yes,  sir,  I  tell  you 
there  were  heroes,  South  as  well  as  North,  those 
days;  conscientious,  believing,  too,  they  had  the 
Bible  behind  them  on  that  slavery  question. 
Look  at  Lee;  at  Stonewall  Jackson,  and  a  lot 
of  younger  men  —  captains  before  they  were 
twenty.  South  and  North  gave  their  best  — 
kept  pouring  it  in,  even  when  those  grim  old 
leaders  on  both  sides  knew,  though  prayers  and 
parades  went  on,  that  the  cause  was  already  lost. 
I  am  told,  believe  it,  too,  'twas  a  bitter  enough 
day  for  some  of  them  generals  when  they  turned 
their  backs  on  West  Point  and  throwed  up  the 
Union.  I'm  no  peace-at-any-price  man,  but 
when  you  go  into  war  it's  precisely  what  our 
Sherman  said:  '  Hell; '  and  those  stirring  it 
up  well  knew  there's  no  turning  back.  You 
simply  pay  any  price  in  men,  or  other  treasures 
making  a  nation.  The  Southerners,  fighting  for 
homes,  and  what  they  called  Liberty  to  follow 
the  Constitution;  we,  North,  for  freedom,  the 
Union  strong  against  the  whole  world,  and  to 
show  the  South  they  were  wrong  in  trying  to 
force  that  curse  of  slavery  over  the  lines.  Our 
battle-cry  was  '  Union ; '  '  Let  us  die  to  make 


68     TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

men  free ; '  but  look  at  the  cost,  and  the  evil 
wrought  over  this  whole  land  by  that  terrible 
struggle.  I  know  of  what  I  speak,  for  I  ran 
off,  enlisted  and  —  may  I  be  forgiven  —  said 
I  was  over  age;  looked  it,  anyway,  and  wrote 
out  '  eighteen '  in  big  figures ;  put  that  paper 
in  my  boots,  reasoning  it  was  lawful  deception 
declaring  I  was  over  age.  Well,  one  of  those 
rebel  bullets  is  travelling  along  between  my 
shoulder  and  chest  to-day;  I  came  back  a  good 
deal  of  a  wreck.  Not  one  of  our  folks  knew 
me  at  first.  Consuming  fever  in  your  bones  is 
another  one  of  them  war  legacies,  if  you  do 
manage  to  keep  head  and  limbs  together. 

"  No,  sir,  excitements  those  days,  before  and 
after  that  firing  on  Fort  Sumter,  are  past  be- 
lieving now.  Political  party  talk  just  frenzied 
true  men,  both  North  and  South.  This  side  the 
fence  you  were  hailed  patriots,  on  the  other 
railed  at  as  vandals  unspeakable.  I  am  free  to 
say  if  there  had  been  cooler  heads  —  those  Peace 
Commission  folks  seemed  to  have  sensible  ideas 
and  might  have  saved  the  nation  —  better  ways 
could  have  been  found  to  settle,  buying  up,  or 
right  deciding  on  the  slaves.  Look  at  those 
millions  in  money  flowing  out  like  water,  to 
keep  the  war  agoing.  I  ain't  talking  of  lives 
now;  but  no,  hot  blood,  once  started,  don't 
easily  cool.  'Twas  brother  against  brother,  that 
made  discord  fiercer,  and  a  man's  foes,  they  of 
his  own  household.  Well,  thank  God,  '  Blues 
and  Grays '  can  fight  over  those  old  battles  now 


TRAVELS   OF  A   LADY'S   MAID     69 

in  almost  a  friendly  spirit,  smoking  their  pipes 
by  peaceful  campfires,  talking,  calmly,  of  days 
that  tried  men's  souls,  dividing  the  land  by 
streams  of  blood.  Defeat  may  rankle  a  little 
with  those  older  ones,  perhaps,  who  lost  every- 
thing. I  ain't  blaming  them,  exactly;  but  this 
feeling,  too,  is  going  pretty  fast,  I  guess.  I 
didn't  take  stock  in  that  Cuban  war;  maybe 
some  of  us  old  G.  A.  R.  veterans  thought  there 
was  a  trifle  too  much  fuss  over  those  San  Juan 
Rough  Riders.  I  didn't  altogether  like  those 
proceedings  in  the  Philippine  Islands  either; 
rum  is  worse  than  lead  for  some  of  them  natives. 
I  am  proud  of  our  Country,  but  afraid  this 
stretching  out  towards  heathen  lands,  in  the  line 
of  enlarging  the  boundaries,  is  not  wise.  Send 
them  the  Gospel,  preaching  and  living  it,  too,  I 
say;  but  look  out  for  what  you  British  call, 
'  extending  the  sphere  of  influence.' 

"  Well,  I  most  forgot  to  show  you  the  house 
where  Mr.  Emerson  died,"  he  went  on;  "I 
might  as  well  say  right  off  there's  no  team  in 
this  township  equal  to  Grant  and  Lee.  Any- 
body in  these  parts  will  tell  you  so;  and  for 
more  than  three  years  they  have  been  bringing 
me  good  profits. 

"  For  funerals  or  friendly  rides,  I  charge 
nothing;  but  christenings,  weddings,  floral  pa- 
rades or  sleighing-parties  are  five  dollars,  or 
more,  each,  and  every  penny  goes  to  them  Fresh 
Air  children  in  the  city. 

"We  had  a  boy  of  our  own  not  long  ago; 


70    TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

just  four  years,  coming  the  first  of  next  month; 
the  week  he  was  nine,  we  laid  him  over  yonder. 
Never  could  get  courage  to  tread  that  cypress- 
shaded  path  since;  but  mother  goes  there  often, 
Sundays  and  other  times.  You  never  saw  a 
brighter  little  fellow;  full  of  mischief  as  a 
squir'l;  such  earnest  ways  of  laughing,  or  car- 
rying on  over  everything  he  did;  a  mite  high- 
tempered,  perhaps,  like  his  grandma,  but  easy 
to  make  up  in  a  minute.  We  had  been  married 
nigh  to  seven  years  before  our  first  girl  came, 
you  know,  and  wife  simply  adored  that  little 
son  coming  so  long  after  —  always  had  been 
crazy  for  a  boy;  and  he  never  was  ten  minutes 
out  of  her  sight  if  she  did  not  know  just  where 
he  was  or  what  he  was  doing. 

'  Yes,  sorrows  come  to  all,  I  know;  linking 
the  whole  world  together,  and  when  life  is  given, 
whether  we  want  it  or  not,  suffering  comes,  too; 
but  mother's  life  was  just  anchored  to  that 
child,  and  for  more  than  a  year  she  seemed  to 
carry  a  dead  heart  in  her  bosom. 

"  It  happened  this  way:  mother  did  want  a 
few  white  flowers  that  morning.  One  of  them 
poor,  half-witted  almshouse  girls  strayed  into 
a  neighbour's  the  day  before,  and  that  night  a 
nameless  baby  was  born.  Mother  helped;  and 
when  it  opened  its  eyes  and  breathed  a  few 
times,  it  was  gone;  and  she  thought  putting  a 
few  flowers  by  the  coffin  would  seem  comforting 
to  the  girl,  who,  in  a  dull  way,  appeared  to 
mourn  her  baby.  So  when  Benny  begged  to 


go  to  the  pond  and  bring  up  some  lilies,  said, 

*  Yes,'  knowing  the  flat-bottomed  old  boat  could 
never  upset,   and   'twas  no   distance  from  the 
house,  barely  a  quarter  of  a  mile  —  you  can 
most  see  the  place  now  over  yonder,  beyond  that 
bridge.     She  had  been  to  the  upper  windows 
once  to  make  sure  he  was  all  right,  and  then 
started  down  to  meet  him.    When  she  came  to 
where  you  can  see  the  pond  from  our  lane,  there 
was  his  straw  hat  on  the  seat.     For  a  moment, 
mother  thought  he  must  be  on  the  bank,  under 
shadow   of   the   trees,    perhaps  —  the   water   is 
pretty  deep  there  —  but  it  did  not  seem  quite 
right.     I  heard  just  one  cry,  '  Father/  and  to- 
gether we  ran  to  the  boat.     'Twas  no  use;   no 
human  being  will  ever  know,  but  they  think  he 
struck   his   temple  —  it   was   bruised,   the   only 
mark  on  his  body  —  on  the  rowlock,  or,  push- 
ing his  oar,  overbalanced  and  got  caught  under 
the  lily  pads;  there  might  have  been  heart  trou- 
ble, though  Ben  never  did  complain  of  heat, 
or  anything.    He  was  gone,  we  think,  just  after 
mother  saw  him,  and,  in  less  than  an  hour,  again 
in   her   arms,    a   half-opened   lily   still   tightly 
clasped  in  his  hand. 

"  I  don't  know  when  I  have  spoken  so  about 
our  sorrow;  but  coming  to  the  cemetery  led  on, 
and  though  we  are  not  much  acquainted,  I 
kinder  knew  you  would  understand.  We  have 
grown  tenderer  of  others'  children,  perhaps, 
since  mother  had  those  words  cut  on  his  stone,  — 

*  A  little  child  shall  lead  them.' 


72     TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

"  Well,  I  must  hurry  on,  or  we  won't  get  to 
those  graves  you're  searching  for.  Yes,  there 
lies  Mr.  Emerson;  that  big  rock  is  his  stone. 
Plain  and  strong  like  him.  What  he  wrote 
about  empty  hands  and  other  things  helped 
mother  and  me  considerable.  Hawthorne,  too, 
had  a  kind  heart  —  not  much  of  a  talker;  and 
the  Alcotts  were  neighbourly,  though  those 
transcendental  ideas  I  never  could  follow;  some- 
thing like  that  higher  criticism  they  talk  about; 
experimenting  with  stops;  putting  in  a  comma 
here,  or  changing  Hebrew  words  there;  alter- 
ing the  whole  Scripture  renderings  you  have 
followed  since  you  were  born.  Some  good 
notions  back  of  it  all,  I  suppose,  but  past  my 
comprehension.  Following  the  Golden  Rule, 
and  that  verse  beginning,  *  What  doth  the  Lord, 
thy  God,  require  of  thee? '  suits  me.  That's 
plain  enough,  even  if  'twas  written  in  a  dead 
language." 


CHAPTER   XVII 

As  they  drove  back  towards  the  farm,  Lady 
Emily  saw  the  Countess  on  the  porch,  a  pretty 
place;  stone  steps  in  front,  honeysuckles  and 
other  creepers  at  each  side;  with  ferns,  and 
lilies  just  blossoming.  Mrs.  Hanlee,  her  hair 
almost  gray,  tall  and  extremely  nice,  sat  there 
also.  Her  ladyship  had  passed  a  most  agree- 
able morning,  getting  ideas  for  her  dairy  at 
Ortham  Towers,  she  said,  and  talking  over  some 
new  butter  tests,  and  the  treatment  of  goslings. 

Mrs.  Hanlee's  daughters  brought  charming 
bouquets  of  wild  flowers,  —  Canterbury  bells, 
which,  the  Countess  told  them,  ancient  chroni- 
clers said  opened  their  blue  bells  at  "  Sunne  ris- 
ing, closing  with  sunne  set;  "  life  everlasting, 
and  others  new  to  her  ladyship,  mentioning  they 
never  gathered  roots,  unless  to  use  in  home 
gardens,  as  they  were  members  of  a  society  to 
protect  wild  flowers  and  birds. 

The  young  girls  were  very  proud  of  their  pet 
cat,  a  fine  Angora  with  three  kittens,  the  mother 
almost  as  beautiful  as  Lady  Emily's  own  Mi- 
gnonne,  who  won  first  prize  at  the  London  Cat 
Show.  Lady  Emily  thought  the  girls'  manners 
delightful,  they  were  not  at  all  given  to  the  pert 

73 


74     TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

ways  she  had  been  told  many  youthful  Ameri- 
cans incline  to. 

When  the  Countess  asked  the  eldest  daughter 
to  sing  for  the  Earl  the  verses  she  had  heard 
her  singing  earlier  in  the  morning,  she  sang  un- 
affectedly, with  very  nice  expression: 

"  The  breaking  waves  dashed  high 
On  a  stern  and  rock-bound  coast, 
And  the  woods  against  a  stormy  sky; 
Their  giant  branches  tossed. 

"  And  the  heavy  night  hung  dark 
The  hills  and  waters  o'er, 
When  a  band  of  exiles  moored  their  bark 
On  the  wild  New  England  shore." 

Lady  Emily  remembered  having  heard  this 
poem  at  home,  and  the  Countess  said  the  lines 
were  written  by  an  English  lady,  a  friend  of  her 
great-aunt's. 

In  returning  from  the  pastures  where  the  Earl 
had  gone  with  Mr.  Hanlee  to  inspect  a  couple 
of  colts  considered  remarkably  promising  as 
pacers,  his  lordship  asked  the  amount  of  his  bill. 
A  sum  so  small  was  named  by  Mr.  Hanlee  that 
the  Earl  said  it  was  quite  insufficient  for  the 
trouble  given. 

"No,  sir,  I  am  asking  you  regular  rates; 
more  than  the  widow,  of  course,  she  paying  by 
the  month,  —  I  throw  in  them  mites  of  boys; 
but  those  are  fair  charges;  not  a  cent  more  or 
less;  it  all  goes  to  those  Fresh  Airers,  though 
we  get  good  profit,  too,  liking  to  warm  hearts 
as  well  as  hands,  at  our  hearth." 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID     75 

They  were  sorry  to  leave  such  kindly  people, 
Lady  Emily  said;  and  on  returning  to  Boston 
a  beautiful  microscope  was  sent  to  Concord,  with 
a  message  saying  Mr.  Hanlee  must  sometime 
bring  his  daughters  to  see  their  ancestors'  homes 
in  England.  His  lordship  remembered  the  old 
Earl's  having  spoken  of  Sir  Claude,  who  must 
have  been  the  Baronet  when  Mrs.  Hanlee's 
grandmother  was  living;  a  most  eccentric  man, 
trained  for  the  Diplomatic  Service;  but  scrapes, 
and  worse,  at  Constantinople  and  Venice,  soon 
cut  short  his  career  in  that  direction.  He  finally 
met  his  death  by  a  fall  when  hunting.  His  only 
son,  coming  of  age  just  at  this  time,  was  sadly 
wild;  tried  to  lose  his  identity  in  the  London 
slums ;  later,  leaving  debts  and  dishonour  in  Eng- 
land, he  fled  to  South  Africa  with  a  Music  Hall 
celebrity.  The  Earl  presumed  they,  or  their 
children,  if  there  were  heirs,  might  still  be  get- 
ting an  income  from  the  Yorkshire  estates.  The 
ancient  manor  had  some  of  the  best  oak  carving 
in  the  kingdom,  though  badly  damaged  and  out 
of  repair.  His  lordship  believed  the  old  house 
and  part  of  the  land  entailed;  but  the  scandal 
about  the  young  Baronet  was  so  long  past,  he 
had  forgotten  details. 


CHAPTER   XVIII 

MR.  STUBBS  had  a  presentiment,  that  evening 
of  the  Earl's  return,  that  the  hotel  office  clerk 
would  be  off  duty,  and,  knowing  he  should  not 
be  wanted  until  after  ten,  was  standing  near  the 
entrance  when  the  young  man  came  out.  He  at 
once  turned  towards  Mr.  Stubbs,  saying  an 
Athletic  Contest  was  to  be  held  at  the  Young 
Men's  Christian  Association  that  evening,  and 
if  Mr.  Stubbs  cared  to  see  their  rooms,  he  would 
be  glad  of  his  company.  Thanking  him,  of 
course,  Mr.  Stubbs  replied,  it  would  be  most 
agreeable,  as  he  was  a  stranger  and  also  off 
duty. 

Walking  towards  the  Association,  Mr.  Stubbs 
just  mentioned  how  worried  he  had  been,  owing 
to  the  mistake  about  those  tickets.  Promptly 
the  young  clerk  replied,  he,  too,  had  been 
greatly  concerned  over  the  whole  occurrence. 

It  seems  he  had  already  explained  to  his  lord- 
ship, that  he  is  a  New  York  man,  recently  sent 
to  Boston,  and  had  never  chanced  to  hear  of 
Mr.  Emerson.  When  Concord  tickets  were 
asked  for,  something  may  have  been  said  about 
the  Emerson  house,  which  he  took  to  be  some 
new  inn,  or  summer  resort,  not  yet  on  their  hotel 

76 


TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S  MAID     77 

list.  One  thing  he  clearly  recalled,  instructions 
having  been  telephoned  him  the  Saturday  be- 
fore, just  as  he  was  starting  for  a  jolly  good 
time  over  Sunday  at  his  best  friend's  camp, 
to  go  immediately  to  the  steamship  pier  to 
meet  a  party  of  British  aristocrats  —  his  own 
words  —  earls  or  dukes,  —  he  did  not  know 
which,  —  so  keen  to  reach  Concord,  where  they 
had  some  appointment,  that  everything  was  left 
on  the  steamer  for  him  to  attend  to,  they  rush- 
ing off  to  catch  the  Concord  train.  He  was 
bothered  most  to  death  about  the  baggage. 
The  parties'  names  being  different  from  their 
titles,  he  could  not  get  the  initials  on  the  trunks 
straight,  but  did  not  dare  leave  them,  nor  did 
he  wish  to  make  a  fool  of  himself  by  lugging 
up  to  the  hotel  a  lot  of  things  belonging  to  other 
travellers;  so,  when  another  lord  came  along 
the  following  week,  asking  for  Concord  tickets, 
he  naturally  came  to  the  conclusion  it  was  the 
same  Concord,  in  New  Hampshire,  and  sent  up 
tickets  accordingly;  also  was  on  hand  the  next 
morning,  telling  the  driver  where  to  go.  He 
might,  of  course,  have  mentioned  to  his  lord- 
ship the  crowds  that  would  be  travelling  to  cele- 
brate the  day;  and  now  blames  himself,  espe- 
cially since  seeing  the  Countess  and  that  beau- 
tiful young  lady,  for  not  doing  so;  but  had  an 
impression  from  friends  in  the  navy  that,  though 
British  and  American  sailors  stand  together 
against  outsiders,  the  world  over,  they  prefer 
celebrating  Royal  birthdays,  rather  than  dress- 


78     TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

ing  ships,  or  saluting  the  flag,  Independence 
Day;  leastways,  had  heard  this  was  true  in  the 
past,  in  far-away  treaty-ports,  and  believes  he 
has  been  told  that  English  captains  sometimes 
find  it  a  convenient  day  for  sailing  off  on  target 
practice,  or  coaling.  He  thought  the  Earl,  per- 
haps, preferred  being  out  of  Boston  and  absent 
from  military  reviews  on  that  day. 

The  young  man,  Mr.  Starr,  regretted  incon- 
veniencing the  party;  but  thought  he  was  doing 
what  was  wanted  by  earls  and  dukes,  though  had 
had  but  little  experience  in  their  company,  or 
with  foreign  customs  and  ways.  Mr.  Stubbs 
tried  to  explain  the  Peerage,  and  though  fairly 
intelligent,  with  a  careful,  slow  way  of  speaking, 
the  man  did  not  appear  to  understand.  Fancy 
his  remarking  he  thought  it  would  be  simpler 
to  call  a  duke's  wife  a  "  dukess."  Mr.  Stubbs 
of  course  told  him,  "  That  is  impossible,  her 
grace  must  be  a  duchess,  unless  of  more  exalted 
rank  before  her  marriage."  Mr.  Starr  then 
inquired  if  Mr.  Stubbs  happened  to  have  a 
guinea  about  him,  it  being  a  coin  he  had  long 
wanted  to  see.  Mr.  Stubbs  explained  that  also, 
and  the  young  man  remarked  it  was  hard  get- 
ting the  hang  of  things  so  contrary  to  their  plain 
meaning.  Such  ignorance  of  British  customs 
and  royal  ways  was  amazing.  Mr.  Stubbs 
might  have  thought  he  was  chaffing;  but  he 
seemed  earnest  and  had  a  very  serious  way  of 
talking.  Mr.  Stubbs  felt  he  should  tell  Mr. 
Starr  that,  repeatedly,  he  has  been  at  great 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID    79 

country  seats,  visited  by  His  Majesty  both  as 
Prince  of  Wales  and  Ruling  Sovereign;  and 
a  more  kindly-mannered  gentleman,  to  all  be- 
neath him,  could  not  be  found.  He  wished  Mr. 
Starr  could  have  witnessed  the  King's  hearty 
applause  at  a  state  concert  where  Madame  Patti 
sang  that  song  about  England,  which  says  "  A 
poor,  honest  man  is  as  good  as  a  king."  The 
Duke  of  Edinburgh,  then  living,  and  next  his 
Majesty,  clapped  even  harder  than  the  King. 
Mr.  Stubbs  was  obliged  to  add,  however,  as  all 
the  world  knows,  there  were  things  in  the  mon- 
arch's youth  better  left  undone.  As  for  the 
Royal  Consort,  Her  Majesty  outshines  all  in  the 
kingdom  in  gracious  loveliness,  as  well  as  in 
rank. 

The  young  man  seemed  much  impressed,  Mr. 
Stubbs  thought,  remarking  he  was  glad  to  hear 
all  this,  for  the  nearest  he  has  ever  been  to  kings 
was  in  having  an  uncle  see  the  Prince  of  Wales 
when  he  came  to  America  —  at  that  period, 
however,  he  does  not  appear  to  have  been  ex- 
actly a  king.  Later,  he  himself  has  been  quite 
close  to  the  Queen  of  Hawaii  —  if  that  is  her 
proper  title  —  when  she  passed  through  New 
York  on  her  way  to  Washington,  to  try  and 
get  her  kingdom  secured. 

The  athletic  contest  was  on  by  this  time  — 
very  creditable  wrestling,  sprinting  and  spar- 
ring —  so  nothing  more  could  well  be  said ;  but 
Mr.  Stubbs  felt  he  had  straightened  out  mat- 
ters a  bit. 


CHAPTER   XIX 

THE  day  before  leaving  Boston  I  was  packing 
in  Lady  Emily's  room,  folding  carefully  and 
putting  paper  in  the  bodies,  just  as  Miss  Barnes 
had  instructed.  To  see  how  badly  scratched  and 
torn  the  boxes,  or  trunks,  are,  even  by  this  short 
trip  in  the  States,  is  disheartening.  Such  treat- 
ment would  not  be  permitted  in  England,  Mr. 
Stubbs  declared,  when  the  Earl's  new  hat-box 
needed  repairs,  from  having  been  tossed  about 
most  recklessly. 

As  I  said,  I  was  busy  packing  when  the  Earl 
came  to  the  door,  and  handed  Lady  Emily  a 
small  parcel,  saying,  "  A  little  gift,  dear,  to  re- 
mind you  of  Boston.  Before  you  open  it,  just 
get  your  pencil,  and  write  down  something  for 
the  vicar.  You  know  we  promised  to  find  new 
coon  songs  for  his  boys'  club,  and  to  remember 
any  good  stories  about  the  negroes.  I  have 
been  at  a  conference  this  morning,  to  meet  peo- 
ple working  for  the  blacks.  One,  recently  re- 
turned from  inspecting  some  large  schools  in  the 
South,  told  of  a  remarkably  amusing  old-time 
darkey,  and  I  want  you  to  write  out  what  he 
said. 

"  A  Bible  study  conference  was  going  on  in 

80 


TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S   MAID     81 

a  small  town  where  he  stopped,  and  '  the  faith- 
ful '  had  been  duly  admonished  to  early  and  con- 
stant attendance  by  their  coloured  pastors.  The 
doors  of  the  place  of  meeting  opened  at  nine 
in  the  morning,  and  before  that  hour  most  of  the 
older  inhabitants  assembled  outside,  waiting  for 
front  seats.  The  preacher,  a  white  man  from 
some  distant  state,  had  gone  through  the  history 
of  Creation,  dwelling  on  the  law-givers,  proph- 
ets and  kings;  the  Lamentations,  Daniel's  trials, 
and,  getting  on  with  the  minor  prophets,  hoped 
to  arouse,  about  noon,  a  faithful  but  somewhat 
exhausted  interest,  by  dramatically  demanding: 
'  Here  comes  Amos;  now  where  shall  we  place 
him? '  A  gray-haired  negro  in  the  front  row 
of  benches,  leaning  meditatively  on  a  staff 
resembling  in  its  proportions  that  of  Goliath, 
apparently  attentively  listening,  —  in  reality 
slumbering  profoundly,  wakened  suddenly  and 
seeing  means  of  polite  escape  towards  the  boun- 
tiful supply  of  fried  chicken  prepared  in  honour 
of  the  gathering,  exclaimed,  with  excited  eager- 
ness, -  c  Let  him  hab  my  place,  Massa ;  Massa 
Amos  can  surely  hab  my  seat,  for  I'se  gwine 
home!'" 

Lady  Emily  laughed  heartily  at  the  old  man's 
earnest  politeness.  The  Earl  was  particular  that 
the  spelling  should  be  as  given  him,  before  tell- 
ing her  ladyship  of  another  patriarch  in  one  of 
the  older  Kentucky  towns,  who,  being  ques- 
tioned by  a  stranger  regarding  a  newcomer  in 
that  region,  replied :  "  I'se  don'  jus'  know 


82     TRAVELS   OF   A   LADY'S   MAID 

'bout  der  religion.  I  ain't  beholden  to  anybody, 
but  he's  powerful  kind  to  his'n  own  folks,  and 
mighty  good  doin'  for  der  poor;  knowin'  fine- 
mannered  bosses  when  he  do  see  dem;  but  dose 
racin'  boys  what  am  allus  foolin'  round  dat  big 
stable,  declar's  dey  hab  heard  ole  massa  say,  ef 
he  cotched  enny  pusson  chicken-snatchin'  down 
his'n  way,  he  war  gwine  to  set  der  blood-hounds 
on  der  tracks  sure;  an'  enny  whites  or  blacks,  fit 
for  members  in  dat  Liars'  Club,  would  git  fired 
off  dis  yer  plantation  quicker  dan  a  rattler's 
strike,  or  thunderin'  lightning  flashes." 

Incidents  were  told,  at  the  meeting,  of 
younger  men  who  walked  hundreds  of  miles, 
willing  to  work  night  and  day  to  get  an  educa- 
tion; one  deeply -interesting  man,  formerly  a 
slave,  became  the  leader  of  his  race  from  the 
bondage  of  ignorance  and  poverty,  toward  all 
that  is  unselfish  and  noble. 

On  opening  the  parcel,  Lady  Emily  was  de- 
lighted to  find  the  dearest  little  book,  bound  in 
blue  leather,  her  name  engraved  upon  the  locked 
silver  clasp.  Inside,  several  views  of  Boston 
were  placed  around  crossed  flags  above  Bunker 
Hill  Monument,  and  at  the  back  a  map  of  the 
world  was  securely  fastened.  On  the  first  page, 
the  Earl  had  written  these  lines: 

"  And  not  through  Eastern  windows  only, 
When  sunrise  comes,  comes  in  the  light; 
In  front  the  sun  mounts  slow,  how  slowly ! 
But  westward  look!    the  land  is  bright." 

—  A.  H.  Clough. 


TRAVELS   OF   A   LADY'S  MAID     83 

Below  the  Countess  added,  — 

"  With  all  thy  getting,  get  understanding." 

—  Proverbs  iv.  7. 

Lady  Emily  must  endeavour  to  write  a  few  lines 
each  day,  as  a  journal,  said  the  Earl.  Then  it 
came  to  me  what  I  should  do  with  a  book  the 
Countess  that  morning  had  told  me  she  did  not 
care  to  keep  longer  —  a  new  laundry  list,  quite 
a  large,  bound  book,  bought  by  Miss  Barnes 
before  leaving  for  Canada.  This  the  Countess 
felt  sure  would  not  be  needed,  in  those  far  away 
lands  where  we  would  travel.  Scarcely  a  night 
passed  after  this  without  my  writing  out  on  the 
backs  of  the  lists  the  day's  adventures.  I  just 
had  to  put  things  down.  My  fondness  for  wri- 
ting out  comes  from  grandfather,  I  have 
thought,  though  father  never  did  tell  us  about 
his  people;  where  they  lived  or  came  from  we 
never  knew;  but  once  after  I  had  learned  to 
write  fairly  well,  said :  ' '  You  have  your  grand- 
father's hand,  Annie,  and  he  was  a  schoolmaster, 
devoted  to  his  books,  and  getting  great  comfort 
from  reading  and  study." 

When  we  reached  the  railway  station  the  fol- 
lowing morning,  Mr.  Stubbs  remarked  that  the 
finest  private  car  he  had  ever  seen  had  been 
placed  at  the  Earl's  disposal  by  a  great  railway 
king,  for  the  trip  to  the  Pacific.  Nothing  to 
compare  with  it  had  I  ever  seen;  there  were 
silk  hangings,  a  piano,  growing  plants,  and 
dressing  rooms;  even  the  pillow  covers  had  lace 


84     TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

trimmings.  At  one  end  a  sort  of  pavilion  with 
red  and  white  striped  awnings  had  been  ar- 
ranged, after  dark  lighted  by  electric  lights ;  and 
here  often  I  was  directed  to  sit  with  Lady 
Emily.  Three  coloured  men  from  the  West 
Indies,  who  spoke  French,  had  charge,  —  a 
steward,  the  cook  and  a  porter.  These  wore 
white  coats  in  the  car,  and  blue  when  they 
stepped  off  upon  the  platform.  The  cooking 
was  as  excellent  as  everything  else. 

The  first  stop  made  was  at  Buffalo,  for  a  few 
hours.  A  very  attractive  town.  Here,  with  my 
own  eyes,  I  saw  what  I  had  heard  about  ever 
since  I  was  a  child  in  Scotland,  and  often  seen 
pictured  in  the  big  London  print-sellers'  win- 
dows, —  Niagara  Falls.  '  Thunder  of  Wa- 
ters," the  Indians  called  the  great  cataract; 
most  beautiful  in  the  sunlight,  a  rainbow  crown 
upon  it.  The  roar  of  the  rushing,  sweeping 
waters  prevented  my  hearing  the  Earl's  com- 
ments; but  Mr.  Stubbs  compared  those  seething 
waters  to  the  pouring  down  of  the  flood  upon 
the  earth,  in  Noah's  time,  or  the  coming  Judg- 
ment Day. 

After  those  stupendous,  restless  falls,  most 
impressive  was  that  silent  whirlpool  below  the 
Rapids,  steadfastly  moving  on  for  uncounted 
ages,  declaring  almighty  power  like  the  un- 
changing stars  of  the  firmament,  ever  since 
man's  eyes  first  beheld  them,  and  none  know 
how  long  before. 


CHAPTER   XX 

MR.  STUBBS  appeared  eager  to  learn  when  we 
should  be  in  Chicago.  Anything  approaching 
butchery  is  revolting  to  his  nature;  but  having 
heard  of  those  stockyard  sights,  he  felt  he  must 
see  them,  though,  if  following  his  own  pleasure, 
he  was  kind  enough  to  say,  he  preferred  walk- 
ing by  the  lake  shores  with  me,  if  we  could  get 
an  hour  off;  but  considered  it  almost  a  duty  to 
see  those  yards,  and  especially  an  old  beast 
called  a  steer,  that  leads  the  other  poor  creatures 
to  destruction.  The  sights  were  sickening,  Mr. 
Stubbs  said,  later,  but  he  was  glad  he  had  seen 
for  himself. 

After  leaving  Chicago,  we  travelled  over  vast 
plains;  wonderful  farming  lands.  Late  the 
following  afternoon,  stopping  jerkingly  at  a 
solitary  station,  one  house  only  in  sight,  the 
porter  told  us  a  "  hot  box,"  or  something  wrong 
on  the  car  ahead,  would  detain  the  train  there 
hours.  No  town  could  be  seen,  but  a  man  com- 
ing from  the  house  said  it  was  barely  three  miles 
away,  in  a  hollow,  hidden  by  the  ridges  of  In- 
dian corn,  fully  twelve  feet  high.  The  man 
added,  "  If  you  wait  ten  minutes  I  will  bring 
round  my  schooner  and  get  you  all  there  most 

86 


86     TRAVELS   OF  A   LADY'S   MAID 

as  quick  as  one  of  them  new-fangled  automo- 
biles we  have  seen  sprouting  out  of  the  spring 
mud  round  about  here.  Our  folks  fears  them 
worse  than  wild  beasts;  seem  to  get  sort  of 
motor-crazy,  and  now  if  they  see  anything  new 
on  the  road,  jumps  out  altogether,  both  sides, 
at  first  sight,  not  willing  to  take  any  chances." 

A  few  minutes  later  the  man  returned  in  a 
big  wagon,  covered  with  white  canvas;  these, 
it  seems,  are  called  "  prairie  ships,"  or  "  schoon- 
ers," in  this  part  of  the  States.  The  Earl  and 
the  Countess  sat  in  the  middle  seat,  as  easier 
riding.  I  was  told  to  sit  by  Lady  Emily  on  the 
back,  and  Mr.  Stubbs  on  the  front  seat. 

When  all  were  seated,  the  driver  continued 
talking  about  the  motor-cars,  saying:  :'  Last 
fall  one  of  our  neighbours  was  travelling  over 
to  Cattle  Creek  market  along  this  very  road, 
loaded  up  to.  the  top  of  his  wagon  with  the  big- 
gest crop  of  eggs  —  part  of  them  special  set- 
tings at  one  dollar  the  thirteen  —  they  had  taken 
in  for  months;  two  stone  jars  of  fresh  butter 
balanced  a  coop  of  '  broilers '  on  the  seat  beside 
him,  and  his  boys  packed  in  pumpkins,  cabbages 
and  tomatoes  wherever  there  was  a  chink  to 
hold  them.  He  had  started  a  little  late,  but 
calculated  on  getting  to  the  Creek  before  dark, 
though  his  horse  is  stiff  forward;  blind  in  one 
eye,  too.  On  the  best  stretch  of  road  between 
here  and  Cattle  Creek  —  awful  dusty,  but 
straight  as  a  dart  for  more  than  seven  miles  — 
one  of  those  snorting  monsters  came  up  behind. 


Farmer  Ord  might  have  been  dozing  a  little, 
he  said,  for,  the  first  thing  he  knew,  they  were 
tooting  a  horn  like  mad ;  that  honk  alone  fright- 
ens most  horses  about  as  much  as  those  fiery 
chariots  themselves.  Old  Ned  made  a  plung- 
ing kick  as  it  steamed  by  close  to  his  blind  side; 
the  breeching  gave  way,  and  such  a  mix-up,  — 
eggs,  farmer,  butter,  chickens,  horse  and  vege- 
tables —  you  never  did  see. 

"  Ord  is  not  a  swearing  man,  but  did  say, 
later,  that  since  then  he  has  not  felt  the  same 
strength  in  rebuking  those  that  are  given  to  bad 
language.  After  a  while  he  fixed  up  the  har- 
ness, got  what  was  left  of  the  load  back  into 
the  wagon  and  started  along  again.  He  kept 
repeating  to  himself  some  of  those  Psalms  that 
are  pretty  hard  on  the  wicked  and  your  enemies; 
but  was  getting  well  over  the  indignant  feelings, 
and  began  singing  *  Beulah  Land,'  when,  half 
a  mile  ahead,  perhaps,  he  heard  a  sharp  report 
or  two,  like  pistol-firing,  then  hard  hammering; 
but  could  not  see  what  was  going  on;  there 
being  a  sort  of  unexpected  gully-wash  just 
there. 

"  Getting  nearer  he  saw  that  big  machine, 
and  on  his  back,  lying  almost  under,  was  the 
man  who  drove  it.  Suicide,  or  some  violent 
death,  he  could  have  affirmed,  and  felt  sorry  he 
had  dwelt  so  much  on  those  Psalms  about  your 
enemies;  but  a  minute  later,  the  man  crawled 
from  the  dust,  nearly  a  foot  deep,  and  said,  — 
using  some  expressions  Ord  did  not  care  to  re- 


88     TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

peat,  —  that  he  had  bursted  his  machine.  The 
sun  was  low  in  his  eyes,  and  the  road  being 
straight  he  had  not  counted  on  any  dip  like  that. 
He  wanted  to  know  how  far  it  was  to  the  near- 
est house  or  machine  shop,  as  he  would  have  to 
carry  part  of  his  auto  there,  or  get  horses  to 
draw  the  car.  Farmer  Ord  told  him  'twas  nigh 
to  four  miles,  and  the  man  seemed  so  put  out 
at  the  distance,  telling  him  that  for  more  than 
two  years  he  had  most  lived  in  his  machine; 
could  not  walk  a  mile  without  pain,  he  was  so 
unaccustomed  to  using  his  legs.  Ord  could  not 
resist  saying  that  though  his  load  was  consid- 
erably lighter  than  when  he  last  saw  him,  he 
feared  Ned  could  never  draw  another  hundred 
pounds;  but  he  would  gladly  take  any  message 
wanted,  or  send  a  team,  if  he  could  find  one,  to 
fetch  him  and  the  car  to  the  blacksmith.  The 
man  thanked  him  gratefully,  accepting  the 
offer,  and  late  that  evening  he  heard  him  being 
towed  along  to  the  smithy,  followed  by  most 
of  the  boys  and  other  leisure  classes  of  Cattle 
Creek,  who  seemed  greatly  pleased  that  the  ad- 
vice they  are  always  so  generous  about  giving 
had  for  once  been  taken." 

Farmer  Ord  has  been  told  those  far  East 
magistrates  have  a  hard  time  fining  racing 
chauffeurs,  and  thinks  if  some  less  high-sound- 
ing name  were  given  them,  they  might  have 
more  respect  for  the  rights  of  others.  He  does 
not  know  much  about  the  East,  but  declares  he 
should  not  advise  letting  any  of  our  people  here 
suggest  names  they  consider  appropriate. 


CHAPTER   XXI 

ON  reaching  the  town,  it  was  a  pleasant  place, 
we  could  see,  but  not  very  tidy,  —  scraps  of 
paper  and  other  rubbish  blowing  about  the  wide, 
ill-kept  streets,  —  three  churches  and  a  nice 
schoolhouse.  The  driver  remarked,  "  We've  a 
lot  of  books  piled  up  over  the  new  Bank,  and 
are  hoping  the  town  may  be  '  Carnegied  '  before 
Thanksgiving." 

This  must  mean  provided  with  a  library  build- 
ing the  Earl  said. 

Just  off  the  main  road  stood  a  very  neat 
house;  on  the  porch  an  old  man  sat  until  the 
"  schooner  "  came  in  sight,  then  hurrying  to  the 
gate  waved  a  letter,  which  he  was  anxious  should 
go  by  the  next  mail  to  his  son  in  the  Philippines, 
he  said;  and  would  our  driver  drop  it  in  the 
postal  car  at  the  station? 

As  we  drove  toward  the  railway,  the  driver 
said,  "  That  old  man  has  been  nearer  death  than 
most  people.  Years  ago,  seated  on  his  coffin, 
his  eyes  covered  with  a  handkerchief,  he  awaited 
orders  to  be  shot  for  deserting  at  a  critical  time 
in  the  Civil  War,  when  a  messenger  galloped 
furiously  up,  his  horse  and  himself  foam-flecked, 
waving  his  hand  peremptorily  and  shouting,  '  I 

89 


90     TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

am  the  bearer  of  a  pardon  from  President  Lin- 
coln.' 

'  The  soldier,  scarcely  more  than  a  boy,  was 
desperately  homesick,  and  after  months  of  ill- 
ness had  been  discharged  from  the  hospital,  that 
day,  as  fit  for  duty,  though  still  wretchedly 
weak.  Hearing  through  a  comrade  that  his 
mother  had  come  to  a  town  not  fifty  miles  away, 
where  her  sister  lived,  he  determined  to  slip  off 
by  night  and  at  least  see  her  before  returning 
to  field  duty.  Not  realizing  what  this  action 
meant,  he  told  no  one  but  his  comrade,  who,  un- 
fortunately, bore  a  very  bad  reputation. 

;'  There  were  many  desertions  those  days,  and 
the  officers  knew  discipline  must  be  maintained 
by  severest  measures.  When  he  was  caught 
stealing  off  between  the  sentry  lines,  in  some 
sort  of  disguise,  thinking  him  a  spy,  the  pickets 
fired,  slightly  wounding  him;  later,  discovering 
who  he  was,  the  captain  of  his  company  could 
scarcely  believe  it  possible,  the  boy's  previous 
record  having  been  excellent.  In  his  terror  at 
being  captured,  and  then  realizing  what  he  had 
done,  the  young  fellow  told  rather  conflicting 
stories,  and  seeing  he  was  not  believed,  became 
stubborn  and  they  could  get  nothing  out  of  him. 
After  he  was  sentenced  to  be  shot,  his  captain, 
who  had  known  the  young  man's  family  many 
years,  hastened  to  Washington,  thinking  Lin- 
coln might  save  him.  The  President  refused, 
adding  deserters  had  increased  recently,  and 
example  must  be  made.  Then  an  old  Judge, 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID     91 

the  lad's  godfather,  and  a  companion  of  the 
President's  own  boyhood,  went  to  the  White 
House.  He  told  Mr.  Lincoln,  it  was  not  be- 
cause his  failure  to  speak  might  mean  the  break- 
ing of  a  widowed  mother's  heart,  nor  even  to 
save  an  only  son,  who  never  before  had  caused 
grief,  from  deserved  punishment;  but  because, 
having  investigated  every  detail  connected  with 
the  fevered  madness  of  a  heart-sick  boy,  it  was 
his  bounden  duty  to  place  before  the  President 
a  letter  obtained  that  morning  from  the  Dead 
Letter  office,  it  having  been  wrongly  addressed. 
This  letter,  written  by  the  lad  shortly  before 
starting,  told  his  mother  he  hoped  to  spend  a 
few  hours  with  her,  though  nothing  would  pre- 
vent his  returning  to  the  regiment  but  inability 
to  hold  a  musket,  or  the  close  of  the  war.  He 
did  not  tell  his  mother  how  he  would  get  to  her, 
but  described  the  horrors  he  had  witnessed  since 
leaving  home.  Long  nights  without  sleep  were 
spoken  of,  and  days  when  living  was  torture. 
President  Lincoln  read  the  letter,  a  sad  smile 
lighting  his  wearied  features,  worn  and  agon- 
ized with  the  burden  of  a  nation's  woe,  from 
which,  even  then,  he  seemed  to  realize  that  only 
death  could  free  him,  and  raising  his  deep, 
searching  eyes  from  the  letter  still  in  his  hand, 
said,  '  I  have  your  word,  Judge,  as  to  the  truth 
of  this;  I  know  I  can  trust  you  and  cannot  re- 
fuse what  you  ask.  The  pardon  shall  be  given 
and  the  boy  returned  to  his  regiment.' 

"  Tears  filled  the  eyes  of  both  men  as  the  old 


92     TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

friends  clasped  hands,  and  parted,  never  to  meet 
again  in  this  world." 

Our  driver  told  the  Earl  that  the  veteran's 
name  was  Long;  that  he  married  years  after 
the  war  closed;  had  three  sons  and  one  daugh- 
ter. The  first  child  he  named  Abraham  Lincoln 
Long;  the  second,  Lincoln  Long;  and  when 
the  third  came,  in  commemoration  of  all  who 
helped  him  in  time  of  desperate  need,  he  was 
called  Abraham  Judge  Savin  Long,  Savin  be- 
ing the  captain's  name.  His  only  girl  was 
christened  Grateful  Long.  Two  sons  were  al- 
ready in  the  United  States  service,  and  the  third 
probably  would  be,  when  he  became  older. 

His  lordship  appeared  much  interested  in  the 
history  of  the  old  soldier,  saying  his  father,  the 
late  Earl,  admired  Lincoln  greatly,  and  kept 
the  President's  portrait  in  his  study.  Soldier 
Long  was  not  so  very  old,  the  driver  explained, 
but  his  hair  became  white  before  he  left  the 
army. 

Our  driver's  name  was  Olsen  and  he  was  born 
in  Sweden,  but  considered  himself  a  loyal  Amer- 
ican, having  for  more  than  forty  years  voted 
at  every  presidential  election,  and  would  have 
gone  to  the  war  if  a  disabled  arm  had  not  pre- 
vented. The  West  was  full  of  Swedes  and  Ger- 
mans, he  remarked,  zealous  American  citizens, 
but  not  forgetting  their  fatherland,  and  proud 
of  King  and  Emperor. 

On  reaching  the  railway  again,  the  sun,  a  big, 
misty  ball  of  dull  crimson,  was  fast  sinking 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID    93 

between  where  the  lines  going  westward  seemed 
to  end,  and  the  metal  shone  like  the  lights  on 
sea  calm  nights,  at  sundown,  as  we  sailed  towards 
America.  Five  minutes  later  the  sun  slipped 
away,  and  we  were  off  toward  where  it  disap- 
peared, —  in  "  the  great  ocean  of  the  west," 
said  the  steward. 

Mr.  Stubbs  finds  the  American  mode  of  trav- 
elling very  much  to  his  mind :  "  No  worrying 
about  your  food  when  you  take  it  along  with 
you,  and  a  chance  to  stretch  your  legs  in  mov- 
ing about;  most  comfortable  for  the  nights,  too, 
if  you  have  to  keep  going  at  that  time."  Noth- 
ing could  be  better  than  the  Corridor  Carriage 
trains  of  the  "  Royal  Mail,"  he  had  thought, 
but  now  prefers  this  Vestibuled  Limited.  Many 
valets  consider  journeying  and  being  away  from 
the  London  season  decidedly  exasperating,  but 
he  enjoys  the  novel  sights  and  experiences. 

His  lordship  requiring  little  done,  Mr.  Stubbs 
is  often  in  the  smoking  car,  or  in  one  called  the 
Observation,  coming  back  to  tell  me  what  he 
observes  or  hears.  One  day  he  found  a  small 
lad  of  seven  years  travelling  all  alone.  The 
conductor  had  an  eye  to  him,  of  course,  but  he 
was  just  labelled,  by  a  bit  of  linen  sewed  on  his 
coat,  — "  From  County  Kerry  to  Alaska," 
where  his  father  has  gone,  hoping  to  find  a 
fortune  in  the  gold  fields,  though  in  Mr. 
Stubbs's  opinion,  it  is  more  likely  to  mean  death, 
from  what  he  has  been  told  of  the  snows  and 
hardships,  climbing  over  ice  mountains.  Men 


94     TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

work  like  dumb  beasts,  or  machines,  in  many 
of  those  mining  places,  the  year  round,  never 
stopping  Sundays  even,  and  only  off  for  two 
holidays  a  year:  and  this  in  a  Christian  land! 


CHAPTER   XXII 

ONE  morning  Mr.  Stubbs  sat  near  a  gentle- 
man with  deep-set  eyes  and  overhanging  brows; 
he  had  the  feeling  of  having  seen  him  before; 
his  hair  stood  out  in  a  way  that  seemed  familiar. 
Nothing  was  said,  of  course,  but  Mr.  Stubbs 
did  make  out  that  the  book  he  was  reading  was 
in  the  Greek  language.  Later,  in  that  part  of 
the  car,  everybody  seemed  to  be  laughing,  and 
such  remarks  as  "How  extraordinary!"  and 
"  Is  that  so?  "  were  heard.  The  porter  told  Mr. 
Stubbs  the  gentleman  was  a  great  travelling 
man ;  the  writer  also  of  many  well  known  books, 
and  has  lectured  all  over  the  world.  Directly, 
then,  it  came  to  Mr.  Stubbs  that  he  himself  had 
gotten  leave  to  hear  him  one  night  in  London, 
and  could  never  forget  that  entertaining  talk 
and  the  roars  of  laughter;  though  meeting  him 
in  so  distant  a  place,  he  could  not  at  first  rightly 
decide  where  he  had  seen  him  before. 

An  hour  was  spent  at  Denver,  a  beautiful 
city,  where  far-away  mountains  look  very  near, 
owing  to  the  clear,  dry  air.  At  Leadville,  one 
of  the  highest  towns  in  the  world,  Mr.  Stubbs 
thinks,  the  silver  mined  from  those  brown  hills 
is  amazing.  For  half  an  hour  he  listened  to 

95 


96     TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

what  might  be  called  a  political  oration,  from 
the  platform  of  a  car  going  towards  New  York. 
The  gentleman  talked  excitedly  about  the  silver 
standard,  saying  it  must  be  upheld;  and  warned 
his  hearers  against  British  influences  dictated 
by  Lombard  Street  or  Court  circles.  Those 
listening  were  urged  not  to  be  slaves  to  any 
foreign  power;  and  the  West,  the  speaker 
stated,  no  matter  what  the  East  might  do,  would 
never  submit  to  views  or  rulers  not  understand- 
ing the  silver  question.  A  very  agitating  talk, 
reminding  Mr.  Stubbs  of  Hyde  Park  on  Sun- 
days. 

On  the  Countess's  commenting  upon  a  cot- 
tage standing  a  little  back  from  the  road  and 
having  more  shrubbery  around  it  than  others 
near,  Lady  Emily  was  much  amused  at  the 
reply  of  a  tall  farmer  who  was  almost  under 
the  car  in  his  eagerness  to  examine  its  unusual 
fittings. 

"  Yes,  Marm,  that's  a  nice  place,  no  mistake, 
a  mighty  sightly  farm;  but  Widder  Webb's  no 
hand  to  keep  it  up;  let's  everything  run  to  rack 
and  ruin;  she's  a  good  woman  though,  a  power- 
ful pious  person,  but  no  hustler,  and,  if  you 
look  inside  things  has  got  so  mixed  up  you'd 
kinder  hate  to  touch  her  best  company  pre- 
serves." 

That  night  Lady  Emily  sat  up  very  late  to 
see,  by  moonlight,  a  wonderful  mountain,  called 
Mountain  of  the  Holy  Cross.  It  was  most 
lovely,  —  not  far  from  the  summit,  tracings  of 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID     97 

snow  in  crevices  outlined  upon  dark  rocks  a 
white  cross,  the  figure  of  a  woman,  some  say, 
kneeling  before  it. 

From  what  I  heard  —  for  having  mending 
that  needed  to  be  done  that  morning  I  did  not 
stir  from  the  car  —  Salt  Lake  City  must  be  a 
remarkably  odd  place.  The  idea  of  many  wives 
at  a  time  is  repugnant  to  him,  Mr.  Stubbs  says, 
and  he  fails  to  understand  those  arguments  car- 
ried on  about  it.  It  is  all  wrong,  any  right- 
thinking  person  must  admit ;  "  like  putting  your 
head  through  many  nooses."  The  buildings 
where  those  following  these  peculiar  doctrines 
worship  are  immense  halls  or  temples.  The 
streets  are  wide,  and  the  town  pleasantly  laid 
out  and  clean. 

The  Earl  took  Lady  Emily  to  the  Great  Salt 
Lake,  twelve  miles  beyond  the  town.  Her  lady- 
ship thought  bathing  in  the  lake  delightful. 
You  never  could  sink  in  such  water,  she  said; 
and  on  coming  out,  wanted  to  walk  a  dozen 
miles. 

His  lordship  desired  to  visit  some  valley, 
miles  away,  where  big  game  and  wonderful 
scenery  abound,  but  decided,  as  going  there 
would  prevent  their  seeing  anything  of  Califor- 
nia before  the  vessel  sailed  from  San  Francisco, 
to  postpone  this  expedition  for  another  visit  to 
the  States,  when  they  hoped  also  to  see  Alaska's 
wonders  and  Mexico,  and  in  Arizona,  the  grand- 
est of  all  canyons. 


CHAPTER   XXIII 

THERE  was  never  anything  more  charming 
than  Southern  California,  all  thought.  At  Santa 
Barbara,  and  other  towns,  the  hedges,  as  well 
as  the  gardens,  were  masses  of  flowers;  callas, 
geraniums,  fuchsias,  and  roses,  such  as  I  never 
have  seen;  walls  and  hillsides  appearing  like 
cascades  of  glorious  blossoms. 

Los  Angeles,  and  the  ascent  of  mountains 
near,  delighted  Lady  Emily,  who  was  enthusi- 
astic over  first  glimpses  of  the  Pacific  Ocean 
from  those  great  heights.  All  were  charmed 
with  Santa  Barbara  and  its  old  Franciscan  Mis- 
sion, the  climate  reminding  the  Countess  of  the 
Riviera  in  Italy,  where  she  had  spent  more  than 
one  winter.  We  stopped  to  see  a  wonderful 
telescope  in  an  observatory  on  the  top  of  a 
mountain  —  one  of  the  finest  lenses  in  the  world 
—  and  the  next  day  reached  San  Francisco. 
We  had  scarcely  been  half  an  hour  in  the  im- 
mense hotel  there,  known  as  the  "  Palace," 
in  fact,  I  was  folding  veils  and  straightening  out 
gloves  in  the  Countess's  chamber,  —  when  the 
Earl  came  into  the  sitting-room,  the  door  being 
open  between,  holding  two  telegrams. 

"Read  these,  dear;  most  unpleasant  for  you, 

98 


TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S   MAID     99 

I  am  afraid,  and  very  hard  for  poor  Barnes." 

The  Countess  read: 

"  Regret  to  inform  you  Barnes  has  fractured 
leg.  No  complications.  Accident  not  serious, 
but  travelling  impossible  for  weeks." 

This  was  signed  by  the  Governor-General's 
own  surgeon  and  dated  two  days  back.  The 
second  despatch  said: 

"Barnes  has  broken  leg;  travelling  impossi- 
ble; will  write." 

This  telegram,  bearing  the  Governor-Gener- 
al's signature,  had  been  sent  a  day  later  than  the 
surgeon's. 

The  Countess  was  greatly  distressed  about 
poor  Barnes,  though  I  heard  her  say  to  his  lord- 
ship, she  was  sure  I  could  manage  to  do  what 
was  needed,  and  later,  should  an  extra  maid  be 
required,  knew  Geraldine  could  find  some  one  in 
Calcutta  and  send  her  to  Hong-Kong.  I,  also, 
felt  badly  about  Miss  Barnes,  though  rejoiced 
to  know  I  could  be  of  use  to  the  Countess.  Mr. 
Stubbs  seemed  a  good  deal  disturbed,  also,  say- 
ing, however,  he  was  not  surprised,  having  long 
feared  a  fall  of  some  sort  must  come  to  one  so 
independent. 

Next  morning  I  was  told  to  pack  the  hold-all 
and  dressing-cases,  as  the  Countess  and  Lady 
Emily  would  go  with  the  Earl  to  Monterey. 
They  might  return  the  following  day,  so  Mr. 
Stubbs  and  I  were  to  remain  in  San  Francisco. 
Soon  after  they  left,  a  telegram  was  brought, 
addressed  to  John  Stubbs,  which,  when  he  came 


100  TRAVELS   OF  A   LADY'S   MAID 

back  from  the  railway  station,  —  where  he  had 
gone  with  the  bags,  —  I  handed  to  him.  He 
seemed  a  little  confused,  but  said  nothing;  and 
going  towards  the  window,  opened  the  envelope, 
reading  the  message  more  than  once  before  say- 
ing, "  Having  known  Miss  Barnes  so  long  in 
a  friendly  way,  I  did  feel  rather  cut  up  about 
that  accident  perverse  though  Susan  Barnes  is, 
uncomprehendingly  self-satisfied,  too,  I  am 
bound  to  add,  and  kept  saying  to  myself,  —  I 
expected  some  happening  of  this  sort;  one  leg 
is  sure  to  be  shorter  than  the  other.  I  could  not 
get  it  off  my  mind,  and  as  I  went  to  my  room 
last  night  a  clock  near  struck  thirteen  times.  I 
am  not  superstitious,  of  course,  and  knew  it  a 
mistake  for  eleven;  but  all  the  same,  it  was  up- 
setting. I  got  a  little  nervous,  too,  remember- 
ing my  own  mother's  step-sister,  who  never 
walked  after  Mahaffy's  eldest,  —  tyrant  of  the 
village,  '  Bad  luck  to  you,'  our  boys  used  to 
yell  after  him  —  chased  the  pig  under  the  wheels 
of  the  jaunting-car,  and  she  was  thrown  against 
the  wall,  breaking  her  leg  in  two  places.  Just 
then  it  flashed  into  my  mind,  telegraph  Andrew 
Leach,  the  Governor-General's  own  man,  a 
very  old  friend  of  mine,  having  known  him,  boy 
and  man,  thirty-five  years  and  more,  and  for 
getting  at  particulars  he  is  unequalled.  So  slip- 
ping into  my  coat  again,  I  went  down  to  the 
office  and  telegraphed: 

"  '  Wire  how  Miss  Barnes  is.     Will  leg  be 
same  length? ' 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  101 

"  If  anybody  could  get  at  facts  I  knew  Leach 
would;  and  this  is  his  reply: 

'  Probably  same  length,  getting  at  particu- 
lars; will  write.' ' 

It  did  seem  very  tender-hearted  of  Mr.  Stubbs 
to  take  so  much  trouble,  and  I  told  him  so. 
That  afternoon  he  invited  me  to  a  motor-car 
trip,  to  see  some  great  sea-monsters  on  the  rocks 
beyond  the  town;  but  having  promised  an  Eng- 
lish maid  stopping  in  the  hotel  to  do  some  shop- 
ping with  her,  I  could  not  go.  She  wanted  to 
take  home  a  few  little  remembrances  from  Cali- 
fornia; and,  when  we  met  in  the  maids'  dining- 
room,  kindly  told  me  much  about  the  wonders  I 
should  see  in  those  foreign  lands  we  were  start- 
ing towards,  her  ladies  Tiaving  made  the  same 
trip.  We  bought  photographs  of  those  great 
trees  in  the  Yosemite  Valley,  she  being  glad 
to  get  these,  having  herself  seen  their  immense 
size;  also  several  pincushions  made  from  the 
bark.  Returning  to  the  hotel,  we  strayed  into 
a  part  of  the  town  I  never  should  have  know- 
ingly entered,  seeing  unspeakable  sights  such  as 
Miss  Sandys  —  that  is  the  maid  —  said  she  has 
never  seen  equalled  for  disgrace  in  heathen  lands. 


CHAPTER   XXIV 

THE  next  day  was  Friday.  Before  noon  Mr. 
Stubbs  was  called  to  the  telephone  by  a  message 
from  his  lordship.  Having  decided  to  remain 
at  Monterey  a  day  longer  and  then  drive  to 
some  small  place,  we  were  to  join  them  there, 
bringing  the  letters  and  other  things  wanted  for 
Sunday.  We  started  by  train,  as  directed,  and 
had  everything  ready  in  a  cottage  connected 
with  the  hotel,  when  the  Earl  and  Countess  ar- 
rived, very  dusty,  but  having  greatly  enjoyed 
the  drive,  stopping  at  interesting  places,  Lady 
Emily  said,  though  nothing  she  thought  quite 
so  charming  as  Monterey. 

The  following  morning  Lady  Emily  attended 
service  with  the  Earl  at  a  small  stone  church 
not  far  from  the  hotel.  About  five  o'clock  I  was 
getting  out  the  tea  basket  and  placing  the  table 
on  the  veranda  as  the  Countess  likes  —  Mr. 
Stubbs  had  gone  to  the  hotel  for  cream  —  when 
a  bent-over,  infirm  old  gentleman,  most  care- 
fully dressed  in  black,  wearing  a  high,  old-fash- 
ioned stock,  and  hat  with  a  mourning  band,  and, 
on  his  hands,  black  gloves  half  an  inch  too  long 

102 


TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S   MAID  103 

in  the  fingers,  came  to  the  veranda  steps,  and 
addressing  his  lordship  said,  —  that  having  seen 
him  at  morning  service  he  felt  sure  he  was  a 
fellow  countryman,  and  though  more  than  sixty 
years  had  passed  since  he  left  England,  his  old 
home,  the  church  of  his  ancestors  and  all  con- 
nected with  Great  Britain  were  dear  to  him. 
The  Earl  at  once  invited  him  to  have  tea  with 
them.  As  he  stirred  his  first  cup,  the  old  gen- 
tleman remarked,  he  remembered  well  the  early 
days  of  tea-drinking  in  England:  friends  being 
invited  to  have  a  "  dish  of  tea,"  as  saucer-like 
dishes  were  often  used  instead  of  cups.  His  own 
preference  was  for  Japanese  tea,  though  glad 
to  know  English  planters  had  been  so  successful 
in  Ceylon  and  near  Darjeeling. 

He  then  mentioned  he  was  one  of  the  church 
wardens  and  recently  had  been  concerned  with 
questions  relating  to  rites  and  ceremonies.  In- 
cense might  be  permissible;  regarding  this  he 
was  unprepared  to  decide,  remembering  in  Old 
Testament  times  its  use  was  commanded,  though 
some  claim  that  "  sweet  incense "  referred  to 
prayer.  Whether  this  command  has  been 
changed  by  newer  dispensation,  he  was  unable 
to  say.  The  present  rector,  being  High  Church 
in  his  views,  before  Easter  had  carved  panels 
fitted  into  the  communion  table,  so  that  it  should 
represent  a  solid  altar,  obtaining  the  Vestry's 
consent  also  to  add  more  steps  to  the  chancel, 
and  finally,  on  the  morning  of  Easter  Day,  ar- 
ranging a  processional  of  clergy  and  choristers 


to  walk  around  the  outside  of  the  church.  The 
old  man,  —  Smithson,  we  heard  later  was  his 
name,  —  feared  this  might  be  going  too  far,  and 
though  not  holding  with  Mr.  Kensit  in  his 
method  of  checking  ritualistic  services,  he 
thought  him  right  in  resisting  many  modern 
innovations  in  the  Church  of  England.  His  lord- 
ship agreed  with  this  and  said  in  such  cases  he 
believed  via  media  was  perhaps  safest.  This, 
Mr.  Stubbs  informed  me,  was  Latin,  and  he 
knew  meant  keeping  to  the  middle  aisle. 

In  response  to  the  Countess's  asking  Mr. 
Smithson  if  his  family  were  with  him,  the  old 
gentleman  replied  he  was  alone  in  the  world;  if 
they  were  interested,  and  had  leisure,  he  would 
gladly  talk  of  his  youth,  as  he  seldom  met  com- 
patriots, and  being  so  solitary,  had  formed  the 
habit  of  going  over  the  events  of  a  strangely 
unusual  life. 

He  was  the  only  child  of  a  delicate,  always 
ailing  mother,  and  on  her  death  had  been  sent, 
a  shrinking,  timid  lad,  to  Rugby.  In  his  second 
year  at  the  school  he  was  suddenly  summoned 
home  by  the  elderly  relative,  his  mother's  aunt, 
who  acted  as  his  father's  housekeeper.  On 
reaching  the  Priory,  —  for  so  his  home  was 
called  from  having  been  built  on  the  foundations 
of  an  old  monastery,  —  he  found  his  father  had 
disappeared,  and  saddest  of  all,  under  suspicion 
of  having  caused  the  death  of  a  distant  cousin, 
who  was  also  his  landlord.  There  had  long  been 
bad  feeling  between  the  men  and  a  deal  of 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  105 

wrangling  over  certain  repairs.  Damages  had 
been  claimed  for  injury  to  a  valuable  horse  on 
a  broken  bridge.  Neither  cousin  would  pay, 
though  right  of  way  appears  to  have  been  given 
obliging  the  landlord  to  keep  the  bridge  in  safe 
condition.  Both  men  were  passionate,  both 
given  to  hard  drinking.  The  landlord  was  the 
last  of  five  brothers,  each  having  met  a  violent 
death,  and  all  continually  at  actual  or  legal  war- 
fare with  half  the  county. 

A  few  days  before  the  lad's  return  from 
Rugby,  these  hot-headed  reckless  men  agreed  to 
meet  near  the  bridge  and  examine  it  together. 
The  doctor  from  a  neighbouring  village,  passing 
along  the  highway  shortly  before  sunset  hurry- 
ing to  reach  a  patient,  saw  threatening  gestures, 
and  heard,  though  a  long  distance  off,  what 
sounded  like  violent  altercation,  but  thought 
little  of  it,  as  the  cousins  seldom  met  without 
quarrelling:  a  few  hours  after  the  elder  cousin 
was  found  by  the  bridge,  a  pistol  clenched  in  his 
lifeless  hand;  while  a  faithful  collie  kept  watch 
over  his  master's  body  and  drove  back  those 
wanting  to  take  him  away.  There  could  be  no 
doubt  that  Smithson's  father  had  shot  his 
cousin;  and  it  was  the  general  belief,  at  first, 
that  the  shot  had  been  fatal.  Later,  doctors 
proved  to  the  jury  that  the  bullet  had  simply 
grazed  the  left  shoulder,  causing  a  wound  that 
bled  profusely  but  inflicted  little  injury,  and 
that  the  real  cause  of  death  was  apoplexy.  The 
dead  man's  own  physician  had  repeatedly 


warned  him  of  a  weak  heart,  and  that  very 
morning,  a  biting,  cold  winter's  day,  had  urged 
him  not  to  go  out. 

For  more  than  two  years  nothing  was  heard 
of  the  elder  Mr.  Smithson.  His  boy  continued 
to  live  with  the  aged  lady  at  the  old  home,  when 
one  day,  shortly  before  the  lease  of  the  Priory 
was  up,  a  strange  priest,  a  Roman  Catholic  from 
London,  asked  to  see  the  lad,  and  as  soon  as  they 
were  alone  told  him  he  had  just  come  from  Aus- 
tralia ;  that  his  father  was  alive  after  a  desperate 
illness  there.  Believing  himself  on  his  death  bed 
he  begged  for  an  English  priest,  desiring  to 
make  confession.  The  elder  Smithson's  mother 
being  a  Catholic,  her  son  had  been  baptized  into 
the  Faith.  On  reaching  the  wretched  hut  where 
the  unfortunate  man,  when  not  struggling  with 
fever,  lay  waiting  and  wishing  for  death,  full 
confession  was  made,  and  listening  to  the  sad 
history  it  came  to  the  priest's  mind  that  he  had 
read  in  a  paper  sent  from  England,  some  ac- 
count of  an  English  squire  having  been  shot  by 
his  cousin  and  that  at  first  it  was  believed  mur- 
der had  been  committed.  After  brief  question- 
ing, the  good  father,  a  keenly  earnest  man,  was 
fully  assured  that  one  of  the  actors  in  this  trag- 
edy was  before  him,  and  had  the  joy  of  telling 
the  penitent  he  believed  dying,  that  in  God's 
providence  the  guilty,  though  unpremeditated 
action,  had  not  resulted  in  another's  death. 

The  elder  Smithson  had  believed  himself  the 


TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S   MAID    107 

slayer  of  his  cousin,  and  did  not  excuse,  even  to 
himself,  the  awful  deed,  though  there  was  great 
provocation,  and  shots  had  been  fired  by  both 
men.  Horrified  by  what  he  had  done,  he  fled 
to  the  Priory,  and,  unknown  in  the  darkness,  got 
his  mare  from  her  stall  and  escaped  to  London. 
Selling  the  horse  on  reaching  the  city,  he  shipped 
before  the  mast,  in  a  bark  just  sailing  for  Aus- 
tralia. The  crew  suffered  tortures  on  the  voy- 
age. An  accident  exhausting  their  water  sup- 
ply, scurvy  broke  out;  finally  they  were  ship- 
wrecked, barely  escaping  death,  on  an  island 
where  cannibalism  —  as  was  thrillingly  proven 
by  actually  witnessing  one  of  the  savage  feasts 
—  still  existed.  On  reaching  the  main  land, 
greatly  enfeebled  in  mind  and  body,  Mr.  Smith- 
son's  father  made  no  effort  to  communicate  with 
his  former  home,  hoping  too,  by  continued  si- 
lence, that  his  son,  as  well  as  the  officers  of  the 
law,  would  believe  him  dead.  Since  reaching 
Australia,  though  at  first  fearing  every  sudden 
sound  or  touch  might  mean  arrest,  the  fugitive 
had  neither  seen  nor  heard  reference  to  the  crime 
that  changed  and  marred  his  life.  Reports  went 
slowly  in  those  days,  and  important  events  only 
were  chronicled,  before  electricity  flashed  news 
to  the  ends  of  the  earth. 

The  joyful  shock  of  feeling  himself  free  from 
the  terrible  dread  that  continually  had  followed 
him  appeared  to  paralyze  the  exhausted  sufferer, 
and  for  weeks  death  seemed  more  certain  than 


108  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

life.  Finally,  under  the  priest's  careful  nursing, 
life  conquered  and,  two  months  later,  the  priest 
returned  to  England,  authorized  to  tell  the  son 
that  his  father  lived  and  to  arrange,  when  it 
could  safely  be  done,  for  the  lad  to  join  the 
father,  who  lived  only  for  him. 

About  this  time,  gold  was  first  discovered  in 
California,  and  the  elder  Smithson  managed  to 
reach  the  Pacific  coast,  establishing  himself  there 
in  mining  interests  bringing  large  returns.  His 
son  joined  him  in  the  home  presided  over  by  an 
elderly  widow  of  a  former  Spanish  governour. 
After  twenty  years  of  contented,  if  not  happy 
life  in  the  new  country  he  learned  to  love,  the 
father  passed  away,  and  not  until  then  did  the 
son,  who  never  married,  speak  of  their  early  his- 
tory. A  considerable  property  finally  came  to 
him,  long  unclaimed,  as  heir  to  an  English  es- 
tate ;  but  he  determined  never  to  cross  the  ocean ; 
and  was  then  concerned  with  litigations,  intend- 
ing to  turn  over  his  whole  fortune  to  trustees, 
in  order  to  endow  two  free  homes  for  aged  men, 
one  in  his  native  village,  and  another  in  the  land 
where  many  peaceful  years  had  been  spent. 

The  Countess  and  Lady  Emily  were  so  ab- 
sorbed in  listening  to  the  old  man's  tale,  they 
had  forgotten  it  was  long  past  time  to  dress  for 
dinner.  They  hurried  over  to  the  hotel  dining- 
room  as  soon  as  their  guest  left.  Mr.  Stubbs 
and  I  could  not  forbear  hearing  every  word  said. 
Thinking  we  might  be  wanted,  and  there  being 
no  bells,  we  remained  on  the  other  side  of  the 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  109 

veranda,  only  a  few  feet  away.  It  being  Sun- 
day evening,  I  had  a  chance  to  write  all  down 
almost  at  once,  but  could  never  tell  the  history 
in  the  old  man's  interesting  manner. 


CHAPTER   XXV 

WE  had  but  one  day  in  San  Francisco  on  re- 
turning there  to  take  the  steamer,  and  that 
morning,  before  his  lordship  was  dressed,  a  re- 
porter came  to  the  door  clamouring  for  the 
Earl's  views  about  America.  His  lordship  very 
good-naturedly  consented  to  see  him  while 
breakfasting.  The  young  man  fairly  demanded 
to  know  his  lordship's  impressions  of  the  coun- 
try, and  many  other  things.  Mr.  Stubbs 
thought  he  seemed  a  bit  disappointed  on  the 
Earl's  saying  he  found  much  to  admire,  but 
feared  Americans  might  yield  to  the  temptation 
of  considering  material  prosperity  as  the  great- 
est of  successes,  and  to  over-rate  the  evidence, 
marvellous  as  it  is,  of  commercial  and  industrial 
progress.  His  lordship  believes  the  educational 
methods,  now  installed  in  the  States,  capable  of 
leading  the  world,  if  earnestly,  faithfully  fol- 
lowed; but  more  reverence  must  be  cultivated 
for  the  deeper,  simpler  things  of  life,  and  firmer 
detestation  of  evil  methods  to  gain  wealth  or 
political  honours. 

This  interview  came  out  in  the  newspapers,  so 
Mr.  Stubbs  bought  copies.  He  said  also  he, 

no 


TRAVELS   OF   A   LADY'S   MAID  111 

himself,  had  noticed  one  surprising  thing  in  the 
States,  and  should  like  to  have  mentioned  this 
to  the  reporter;  that  is  the  astonishing  number 
of  chemists'  shops,  or  pharmacies.  From  what 
he  sees  of  the  constant  drug-taking  by  every- 
body, he  would  advise  closing  half  of  them  by 
law,  and  calling  the  rest  "  Harmacies." 

As  we  were  drawing  out  from  the  dock  at 
San  Francisco,  I  observed  Mr.  Stubbs  on  the 
lower  deck,  standing  close  to  the  end  of  the  boat. 
Just  after  the  bell  sounded,  "  All  ashore  "  having 
been  cried,  a  Chinese  man,  wearing  a  long  pig- 
tail, dashed  up  to  the  gate  on  a  bicycle.  Catch- 
ing a  fishing  net  from  a  boy  on  the  pier,  he  held 
it  out  towards  Mr.  Stubbs,  who  was  signalling 
him.  Reaching  out  over  the  vessel's  side,  he 
took  a  letter  the  Chinaman  placed  in  the  net, 
and  putting  the  note  in  his  pocket,  tossed  him 
something  that  looked  like  fifty  cents.  A  mo- 
ment later  Mr.  Stubbs  appeared  on  the  upper 
deck,  calmly  holding  a  basket  of  fruit,  which 
he  told  his  lordship  had  been  sent  from  the 
ranche  of  the  railway  king  whose  beautiful  car 
had  been  placed  at  the  Earl's  disposal  for  the 
trip  to  California. 

That  evening,  not  knowing  I  had  seen  the 
Chinese,  the  fishing  net  and  the  letter,  Mr. 
Stubbs  beckoned  to  me,  as  I  was  leaving  Lady 
Emily's  cabin,  saying,  "  Leach  wrote  me  very 
promptly,  giving  particulars  concerning  Miss 
Barnes's  accident;  as  you  are  a  friend  of  hers, 
I  will  let  you  read  the  letter." 


112  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

He  handed  me  a  large  envelope  with  two  post- 
age stamps  upon  it. 

Later  I  read  how  poor  Barnes  came  to  have 
such  a  bad  fall.  It  seems  she  was  sitting  on  the 
porch  of  her  niece's  cottage  in  Canada,  all  ready 
to  start  for  the  train  leaving  at  midnight.  Her 
grandnephew,  a  remarkably  bright  boy  of 
twelve,  came  along  just  then  —  though  the  sun 
had  set  it  was  not  yet  dark  —  and  asked  politely 
if  she  would  go  with  him  to  see  some  bullfrogs, 
or  hear  the  mocking-birds,  Mr.  Leach  was  not 
sure  which.  Miss  Barnes  was  much  pleased  with 
the  little  fellow's  thoughtfulness,  as  repeatedly 
she  had  rebuked  his  manners,  telling  his  mother 
she  was  absolutely  spoiling  her  only  child.  The 
aunt  and  small  boy  walked  about  for  a  time, 
and  he  then  suggested  her  resting  by  the  pond 
while  he  gathered  the  nosegay  he  had  his  father's 
permission  to  give  her.  After  waiting  perhaps 
twenty  minutes,  Miss  Barnes  strolled  toward  the 
house  and  was  resuming  her  seat  on  the  willow 
chair  she  had  left  on  the  porch,  when  she  saw, 
though  the  light  by  that  time  was  rather  dim, 
a  mouse,  nearly  the  size  of  a  rat,  and  it  appeared 
to  be  running  straight  across  the  seat,  just  as 
she  half  sat  down.  Losing  her  balance,  Miss 
Barnes  fell  heavily  backwards,  dragging  the 
chair  with  her  down  the  half  dozen  steps  leading 
to  the  cement  path  below.  She  could  not  rise, 
and  before  any  one  reached  her  the  little  nephew 
appeared  from  the  other  side  of  the  porch,  la- 
menting and  declaring  he  had  no  idea  anybody 


TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S   MAID  113 

so  big  as  his  aunt  could  be  frightened  by  so  small 
a  thing.  The  mouse  had  been  given  him  by  one 
of  the  young  gentlemen  at  the  Hall  for  Christ- 
mas; it  came  in  a  box,  he  remembered,  stamped 
"  Made  in  Deutschland,"  though  the  young  gen- 
tleman's uncle  had  sent  it  from  London.  He 
knew  it  had  been  taken  out  of  the  box,  and  he 
had  been  playing  with  the  toy  that  very  day, 
wondering  whether  the  long  string  he  fastened 
to  its  tail  was  strong  enough  to  hold  a  real 
mouse,  but  just  the  hour  he  had  seen  it  last,  or 
exactly  where  it  had  been  left,  he  could  not 
rightly  say,  but  of  course  the  plaything  must 
have  been  on  the  porch,  his  aunt  having  found  it 
on  her  chair.  The  doctor  came  immediately. 
Poor  Miss  Barnes  was  helped  into  the  sitting- 
room,  and  a  bed  made  for  her  there. 

Mr.  Leach  heard  the  news  that  night,  while 
waiting  in  the  Governor-General's  dressing- 
room.  One  of  the  Canadian  maids  told  him  of 
the  accident,  remarking  it  had  happened  to  that 
very  prim,  precise  English  maid,  who  was  visit- 
ing her  niece  at  the  gardener's  cottage;  adding, 
she  had  been  told  Miss  Barnes  was  constantly 
criticizing  the  ways  and  manners  of  the  Cana- 
dian maids,  and  some  declared  was  that  particu- 
lar, she  never  entered  her  own  room  without 
knocking  at  the  door. 

The  following  morning,  Mr.  Leach,  being  un- 
usually busy,  did  not  get  out,  but  in  the  after- 
noon, finding  his  Excellency's  riding  crop 
needed  repairs,  he  walked  down  to  the  harness- 


maker's,  having  almost  to  pass  the  gardener's 
house  on  the  way.  To  his  astonishment,  —  for 
the  most  he  had  counted  on  was  getting  a  chance 
to  speak  with  the  gardener's  wife,  —  he  beheld 
Miss  Barnes  herself  reclining  in  a  long  willow 
chair.  It  seems,  after  dinner,  she  had  insisted 
on  going  out  to  get  the  air,  so  they  moved  her 
—  only  a  few  steps  —  outside  the  door.  Mr. 
Leach  felt,  as  soon  as  he  saw  her,  that  the  least 
he  could  do  was  to  ask  how  she  was  feeling.  She 
replied,  "  Very  well,"  but  made  no  reference  to 
the  accident,  appearing  to  think  breaking  of  legs 
might  be  considered  an  every-day  occurrence, 
and  gave  not  the  slightest  encouragement  as  to 
his  sitting  down  or  getting  at  details.  So,  after 
conversing  for  a  few  minutes  about  the  weather, 
he  passed  on,  determined,  nevertheless,  to  slip 
in  at  the  side  door  on  coming  back  from  the 
harness  shop,  and  see  if  the  niece,  quite  an  inti- 
mate friend  of  his,  would  not  be  more  communi- 
cative; and  sure  enough,  from  her  he  was  so 
fortunate  as  to  get  the  particulars  he  was  then 
sending  Mr.  Stubbs  in  reply  to  his  telegram. 
In  a  postscript  Mr.  Leach  added,  —  all  agreed 
Miss  Barnes  had  neither  screamed  nor  fainted, 
and  that  her  leg  was  likely  to  turn  out  all  right 
as  to  length. 

Weeks  later  a  letter  came  to  her  ladyship  from 
Miss  Barnes,  saying  she  greatly  regretted  incon- 
veniencing the  Countess,  and  as  she  was  return- 
ing to  England,  would  there  await  further 
orders. 


CHAPTER   XXVI 

OUTSIDE  the  Golden  Gate,  as  the  entrance  to 
that  beautiful  harbour  of  San  Francisco  is  called, 
very  rolling  seas  were  encountered.  Some  de- 
clared the  smokestack  itself  dipped  into  the 
water  one  night.  Looking  at  it  by  day,  this 
appears  hardly  possible,  but  may  be  true,  as  we 
did  seem  to  be  almost  turning  over.  The  sixth 
morning  out,  the  ship's  officers  all  appeared  in 
white  linen  uniforms.  Later  that  day  we  passed 
very  near  the  island  with  a  name  sounding  like 
one  of  the  books  at  the  end  of  the  Old  Testa- 
ment, and  were  told  it  was  Molokai,  where 
Father  Damien  lived  and  died  for  the  lepers. 
We  gazed  long  upon  those  high  cliffs  separating 
these  desolate  beings  from  the  rest  of  the  world, 
and  could  fancy  the  loneliness  of  that  self-deny- 
ing, earnest  priest  watching  there  for  God's  mes- 
senger to  bring  release  to  those  living  in  the 
shadow  of  death. 

Just  at  sundown  a  huge  rock  appeared  on  our 
right.  This  was  Diamond  Head,  eagerly 
watched  for  by  all  returning  Hawaiians,  said  the 
first  mate;  and  shortly  the  ship  made  fast  to  the 
wharf  at  Honolulu.  A  beautiful  white  beach 

115 


116  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

could  be  seen  beyond  the  pier,  and  natives  riding 
over  the  big  breakers  on  long  boards. 

Finding  the  vessel  in  which  we  were  booked 
for  Japan  would  not  reach  Honolulu  until  the 
coming  week,  the  Earl  decided  to  take  Lady 
Emily  to  another  island,  Maui,  where  a  burning 
mountain,  like  those  pictured  in  geographies, 
was  then  in  eruption.  The  Countess,  rather 
dreading  another  voyage,  preferred  remaining 
at  the  hotel.  One  of  the  Deaconesses  connected 
with  the  Cathedral,  whom  she  had  met  in  Lon- 
don, would  be  with  her  ladyship. 

These  islands  belonged  to  Great  Britain  years 
ago,  and  had  then  been  named  in  honour  of  the 
gentleman  who  invented  sandwiches.  They  were 
never  cannibals  in  that  group,  however,  Mr. 
Stubbs  believed,  but  a  peaceable  race.  Their 
queen  once  visited  our  late  Majesty  Queen  Vic- 
toria, in  London.  We  saw  a  long  cloak  made 
entirely  of  feathers.  One  or  two  feathers  only 
of  that  deep  shade  of  yellow  are  found  on  each 
bird;  and  this  cape  had  been  worn  by  royal  per- 
sonages. 

It  was  frightfully  rough,  as  Lady  Emily 
feared  it  would  be,  the  day  we  crossed  the  chan- 
nel to  the  other  islands;  part  of  the  time  stand- 
ing on  deck  was  almost  impossible,  the  motion 
being  so  violent;  but  soon  we  came  under  shel- 
ter of  high,  mountainous  cliffs,  tangled  with 
bushes  and  creepers  from  the  top  to  near  the 
water's  edge.  After  being  fairly  thrown  into 
small  boats,  on  account  of  the  huge  waves,  we 


stopped  the  night  at  Hilo,  a  town  always  to  be 
remembered  for  the  size  and  alarming  activity 
of  its  monstrous  spiders.  They  hid  behind  pic- 
ture frames,  or  scampered  unexpectedly,  at  dawn 
and  dusk,  from  drawers  and  other  secluded  re- 
treats of  comparative  safety. 

The  next  day  we  took  a  wonderfully  fine  drive 
through  coffee  plantations,  —  the  very  sort  of 
coffee  one  is  always  grinding  at  home,  —  pass- 
ing beneath  tree  ferns  tall  enough  for  a  horse- 
man to  easily  ride  under  their  arched  fronds. 
Glimpses  of  the  blue  shimmering  ocean  beyond 
the  forests  were  very  lovely. 

After  driving  for  nearly  seven  hours  we 
reached  a  small  inn,  on  the  mountain  side;  then, 
for  the  first  time  in  my  life,  after  dark,  too,  I 
mounted  upon  a  horse,  following  Lady  Emily 
over  lava  fields  on  our  way  to  the  volcano,  just 
then  starting  an  eruption.  Never  can  that  weird 
ride  —  the  trail  wound  over  lava,  black  and 
twisted  into  strange,  serpent-like  shapes  —  be 
forgotten  nor  what  was  seen  at  the  end  of  it. 
Straining  our  eyes  and  looking  through  black- 
ness, smoke  and  hissing  steam,  we  made  out  an 
enormous  pit,  hundreds  of  feet  below  where  we 
were  standing.  Suddenly  a  new  world  seemed 
created  and  destroyed.  Waves  of  flaming  fire 
rolled  upon  the  blackness  and  appeared  to  lift 
and  round  it  into  the  form  of  a  globe,  then  rum- 
bling and  seething,  subsided  and  darkness  covered 
all  again.  It  was  so  marvellous  I  forgot  to  be 
timid  until  Mr.  Stubbs  whispered,  if  I  felt  at 


118  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

all  nervous  he  would  gladly  walk  by  my  horse 
the  three  miles  back  to  the  inn. 

Returning  to  Honolulu,  there  were  smooth 
seas,  and  after  a  day  or  so  spent  in  seeing  the 
many  attractive  places  there,  we  were  on  ship- 
board again.  This  time  the  vessel  was  very 
large,  with  splendid  decks.  When  we  went  on 
board,  it  was  a  charming  sight  to  see  the  wreaths 
of  flowers  worn  about  the  necks  of  passengers 
who  were  leaving  Hawaii.  These  garlands, 
made  by  the  native  women,  are  called  "  leis." 
Fastened  to  the  stole-like  necklace  of  leaves  and 
blossoms  placed  upon  the  Countess's  shoulders 
by  the  Deaconess,  was  a  bit  of  white  ribbon,  and 
on  it,  printed  in  violet  letters,  this  verse :  — 

"  I  know  not  where  His  islands  lift 

Their  fronded  palms  in  air; 
I  only  know  I  cannot  drift 
Beyond  His  love  and  care." 

—  J.  G.  Whittier. 

Many  cries  of  "  alloa-alloa,"  a  greeting  similar 
to  "  Joy  be  with  you,"  or  "  May  we  meet  again," 
followed  the  vessel  as  we  moved  out  from  the 
pier.  Near  the  sides  of  the  ship  little  boys,  with- 
out even  wreaths  upon  them,  dived  many  feet 
into  the  water  for  small  coins  thrown  them.  The 
cabins  were  very  airy  and  comfortable,  and,  dur- 
ing that  long  voyage  from  Yokohama,  not  one 
of  the  Earl's  party  suffered  from  sea-sickness. 

Mr.  Stubbs  thought  he  had  never  sailed  in  a 
nicer  steamer,  and  found  the  second  table  most 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  119 

entertaining.  The  first  question  among  the  men 
was,  "  Who  are  you  travelling  for?  "  or,  "  What 
house  do  you  represent? "  It  seemed  as  though 
they  were  constantly  planning  to  invent  and 
offer  every  sort  of  device  likely  to  entice  money 
from  the  heathen;  clocks,  made  in  the  form  of 
dragons  for  the  Chinese  market,  and  to  catch  the 
Japanese,  too;  lighting  oil,  especially  beneficial 
to  heathen,  so  the  agent  said,  because  the  cans 
could  later  be  used  for  carrying  water,  for  milk- 
ing stools  and  many  other  household  purposes, 
being  shaped,  as  he  kindly  explained  to  them, 
almost  as  though  intended  for  convenient  fasten- 
ing to  the  long  bamboo  poles  so  universally 
used.  Sewing  machines  and  bicycles,  by  no 
means  the  latest  models,  though  the  wheels 
would  usually  turn  around,  were  widely  adver- 
tised and  bought  in  astounding  quantities. 

Several  agents  representing  great  gun  firms 
were  going  out  to  distant  lands,  so  that  the 
heathen  might  more  readily  learn  to  understand 
civilized  ways.  Several  of  the  younger  men 
were  boisterously  foolish  over  wine  drinking, 
making  wagers  as  to  which  would  soonest  cover 
the  table  with  emptied  bottles,  and  talking  very 
boastfully  of  their  doings.  According  to  his 
experience,  such  people  usually  end  under  the 
table,  said  Mr.  Stubbs.  Some  earnest,  young 
students  were  "  Round-the-world  Socialists," 
determined  on  defending  the  down-trodden  and 
diligently  declaiming  against  deceiving  doctrines ; 
others,  journalists,  crying  "  Reform  "  and  loudly 


120  TRAVELS   OF  A   LADY'S   MAID 

denouncing  every  measure  interfering  with  their 
own  schemes,  declared  Mr.  Stubbs,  and  whether 
members  of  Labour  Unions  or  not,  each  ap- 
peared to  be  a  fully  organized  Consumers' 
League  in  his  own  person. 

One  evening  Mr.  Stubbs  began  telling  the  ex- 
citing adventures  that  befell  a  friend  of  his  con- 
nected with  Scotland  Yard,  who  had  been  as- 
signed to  the  London  Whitechapel  district.  To 
his  astonishment  the  young  man  with  whom  he 
was  speaking  appeared  to  be  half  asleep,  so  he 
stopped  talking.  The  young  fellow  then  started 
up,  apologized,  and  remarked  he  himself  had 
been  a  reporter  on  one  of  the  big  Chicago  pa- 
pers and  had  seen  detective  service  there,  —  such 
as  being  attacked,  a  dark  night,  in  one  of  the 
worst  slums  of  the  city,  by  thirteen  drunken 
negroes,  all  armed,  shouting,  "  Your  money  or 
your  life!"  flourishing  knives  and  shouting 
wildly,  when  no  policeman  was  in  sight;  that 
doings  such  as  these,  when  you  have  a  hand  in 
them  yourself,  make  detective  tales  of  the  old 
country  seem  rather  tame. 

Among  the  passengers  with  whom  the  Earl 
and  Countess  constantly  talked  and  walked  were 
several  missionaries,  returning  to  their  homes  in 
Japan  and  China ;  delightfully  earnest  people,  I 
heard  her  ladyship  remark.  Regarding  others, 
Lady  Emily  wondered  if  they  might  not  per- 
haps be  mistaken  in  attempting  to  teach  in  any 
land.  One  lady  smiled  very  much,  in  an  appeal- 
ing, bland  way,  but  my  heart  ached  when  she 


persisted  in  thrusting  advice  and  booklets  upon 
a  distressed,  stunned  mother  whose  baby,  just 
three  months  old,  the  father  never  had  seen 
because  leaving  the  mission  station  was  impossi- 
ble when  his  wife  went  to  her  mother's  home  in 
Hawaii  for  the  coming  of  their  first  child.  After 
hours  of  intense  suffering  the  babe  passed  away. 
Having  to  leave  her  child's  body  alone  on  the 
surging  ocean  seemed  almost  to  break  the  wear- 
ied mother's  heart.  Though  kindly  meant,  it 
was  not  comforting  to  be  asked,  "  Are  you  get- 
ting all  the  good  possible  from  your  sorrow?  " 

The  captain's  boy  told  Mr.  Stubbs  that  when 
his  master  saw  this  lady,  generally  clad  in  a 
brown  mohair  ulster  and  wearing  a  sailor  hat, 
bearing  down  upon  him,  he  usually  endeavoured 
to  put  the  ship's  length  between  them  or  rushed 
for  his  cabin,  as  she  seemed  never  to  tire  of  ask- 
ing, if  he  thought  it  probable  we  should  run  into 
a  school  of  whales,  or  what  the  chances  were  of 
seeing  icebergs  and  the  like  in  the  Pacific;  and 
one  evening  Mr.  Stubbs  overheard  the  purser 
muttering,  — "  She's  at  it  again  with  her  idle 
questionings,  patronizing  the  sunset  this  time." 


CHAPTER   XXVII 

MIDWAY  between  Japan  and  China  a  strange 
thing  happened:  we  actually  lost  a  day  of  time. 
Lady  Emily  described  how  this  came  about, 
though  explaining  such  facts  is  a  difficult  mat- 
ter. The  captain  first  determined  Sunday 
should  be  skipped,  fearing  being  called  upon 
to  read  the  service,  some  say,  but  finally  agreed 
to  select  another  day,  and  Monday  was  decided 
on,  given  up  entirely  as  though  it  had  been 
thrown  overboard;  and  Tuesday  followed  Sun- 
day. 

When  I  went  on  deck  that  morning  I  found 
a  little  lad  near  the  punch  ball,  alone  and  crying 
bitterly,  a  bigger  bloated-appearing  boy  known 
as  "  the  buzzard,"  —  owing  to  his  keenness  in 
espying  lumps  of  sugar  left  in  tea-saucers;  or 
any  of  the  passengers  possessing  sweets,  —  hav- 
ing insisted  on  account  of  Monday  being  the 
small  boy's  birthday,  and  his  just  missing  it, 
he  never  could  be  seven  years  old.  I  tried  to  con- 
sole him,  of  course  saying  it  must  be  some  sort 
of  mistake,  and  that  in  any  case  as  he  grew  older 
skipping  birthdays  would  not  seem  such  a  dread- 
ful thing.  The  stewardess,  whose  husband  was 
head  steward  —  both  were  from  Liverpool  — 

122 


TRAVELS   OF  A   LADY'S   MAID   123 

told  me  she  heard  that  decorous,  smiling  lady 
telling  her  sister-in-law  that  very  morning,  she 
was  uncertain  whether  to  consider  herself  back 
in  the  forties  again,  the  day  being  her  fiftieth 
birthday.  The  stewardess  repeated  the  conver- 
sation to  her  husband,  and  he  remarked,  it  was 
the  first  time  in  his  experience  that  any  one,  man 
or  woman,  preferred  the  roaring  forties.  This 
I  surmise  must  be  some  sea  joke,  but  I  did  not 
try  explaining  to  Mr.  Stubbs,  knowing  he  gives 
me  small  credit  for  understanding  pleasantries. 
There  was  a  good  deal  of  game  playing  on  the 
decks;  some  singing  and  music  Sunday  eve- 
nings. The  captain  declared  he  wished  they 
would  cease  singing  about  "  those  in  peril  on 
the  sea,"  it  frightened  the  women  and  timid 
folks.  People  really  were  in  no  more  danger 
on  sea  than  on  land.  Mr.  Stubbs  knows  one 
thing;  in  case  of  accident,  keeping  close  to  the 
captain  would  be  advisable,  it  being  easy  to  see 
how  brave  and  kindly  he  is  in  spite  of  gruff, 
rather  severe  manners.  He  looks  stern  enough 
Sundays  when  all  assemble,  the  officers  fully 
armed,  for  fire  drill  and  inspection.  There 
always  seemed  fear  of  mutiny  breaking  out 
when  the  mixed  crews  mustered  on  the  Pacific. 
A  Perthshire  gentleman  and  his  sister,  both  el- 
derly people,  played  chess  by  the  hour  without 
leaving  the  board ;  six  games  a  day,  or  one  game 
for  six  days,  Lady  Emily  was  uncertain  which, 
but  wondered  they  escaped  nervous  prostration 
from  the  strain. 


124  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

The  small  boy  who,  in  losing  his  birthday,  was 
almost  persuaded  a  sort  of  birthright  had  been 
forfeited,  carried  about  a  puzzle  he  wanted 
everybody  to  guess.  It  was  this:  A  vessel, 
making  twenty-five  knots  an  hour,  left  Hono- 
lulu the  exact  time  one  started  from  Yokohama 
that  made  twenty  knots  an  hour;  both  following 
the  same  course;  when  they  meet,  which  will  be 
nearest  Honolulu?  I  am  not  sure  what  the 
right  answer  is,  but  Mr.  Stubbs  claims,  the 
"  Fastest  ship." 

An  elderly  gentleman,  a  Home  Missionary, 
some  called  him,  on  his  way  to  visit  a  son,  a 
Bible  Society  agent  in  Korea,  and  also  having 
some  employment  about  the  royal  palace,  spoke 
most  interestingly  to  the  passengers  on  a  lower 
deck,  where  we  often  watched  the  Chinese  play- 
ing fan-tan,  or  eating  their  meals,  —  huge  bowls 
of  rice,  devouring  the  last  kernel  by  using  chop- 
sticks in  a  very  dexterous  fashion.  This  good 
old  man  asked  an  interpreter  to  repeat  what 
was  said  to  the  Chinese,  and  they  seemed  to  en- 
joy listening.  He  described  those  Indians,  living 
in  America  when  the  whites  landed,  and  told 
of  their  customs  and  beliefs.  All  peoples  and 
tribes  hold  some  idea,  vague  it  often  is,  the  min- 
ister said,  of  a  Supreme  God  who  directs  the 
world's  affairs.  This  spirit  of  good,  dwelling 
in  each  heart,  and  leading  to  right  actions,  is 
made  clearer  by  those  truly  following  Christ's 
example.  Indians  near  his  home  who  had  set 
up  crosses,  worshipping  them  as  representing 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  125 

the  sun,  or,  as  they  believed,  the  ruler  of  the 
universe,  did  so  long  before  missionaries  came 
to  tell  of  one  who  gave  his  life  upon  the  cross 
in  Jerusalem,  to  show  men  how  to  live  here  and 
find  life  eternal. 

Mr.  Stubbs  asked  respecting  the  Sun,  or  Tor- 
ture Dance,  of  which  he  had  heard  before  leaving 
England,  and  hoped  to  see  in  the  States.  The 
missionary  had  never  seen  this  dance,  believing 
it  to  have  been  forbidden  by  the  government  as 
cruel  and  exciting  to  savage  natures.  Mr. 
Stubbs  explained,  of  course,  that  he  also  objects 
to  anything  cruel,  but  dislikes  missing  any  curi- 
ous sights  or  strange  customs  to  be  seen  in  trav- 
elling. 

One  morning  there  was  a  fine  display  of  red 
and  yellow  papers,  small  squares,  thrown  from 
the  ship's  stern,  and  we  were  told  that  the  many 
Chinese  on  board,  returning  home,  were  cele- 
brating some  sort  of  festival.  Not  being  able 
to  find  out  definitely  from  the  steward,  Mr. 
Stubbs  asked  an  intelligent-looking  Chinaman 
whether  it  had  political  meaning,  like  wanting 
to  frighten  strangers  away  from  China.  The 
man  replied,  "  No,  bery  heapee  big  number  one 
foreign  devils,  smashee  walls.  All  getee  in 
now."  So  we  thought  he  must  know  about  those 
dreadful  Boxer  disturbances. 

That  evening  Mr.  Stubbs  and  I  were  alone 
on  the  upper  deck,  dinner  being  served  below, 
when,  directly  ahead  of  the  ship,  though  a  tre- 
mendous distance  off,  I  caught  sight  of  a  most 


126  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

glorious  mountain  rising  from  the  sea.  My  eyes 
must  be  deceiving  me,  I  thought,  for  none  ex- 
pected to  see  land  until  the  next  morning.  As 
Mr.  Stubbs  ran  for  a  marine  glass,  an  officer 
standing  on  the  bridge  called  out,  "It  is  Fuji, 
the  sacred  mountain  of  Japan!"  We  saw  the 
snow-covered  top,  only,  and  it  was  more  than  a 
hundred  miles  away.  At  once  I  asked  Mr. 
Stubbs  if  I  might  go  down  to  the  dining-saloon 
and  tell  Lady  Emily,  she  having  given  strictest 
instructions,  no  matter  what  hour  in  the  morning 
the  coast  appeared,  I  was  to  call  her  ladyship. 
Mr.  Stubbs  replied,  his  rule  always  is,  "  No 
woman  in  the  dining-room  after  the  serving  of 
dinner  has  begun;  "  and  that  he  would  go  him- 
self; but  seeing  I  greatly  wanted  to  tell  her 
ladyship  myself,  consented,  saying  it  might  do 
on  shipboard;  so,  passing  behind  the  tables,  I 
gave  Lady  Emily  her  wrap,  whispering  the 
name  the  officer  had  called  the  mountain.  A 
moment  later  she  was  on  deck,  delighted  beyond 
expression  with  the  first  view  of  Japan,  in  that 
charming  cloudless  light  after  sunset. 


THOUGH  the  evening  promised  a  fair  day, 
when  it  came  time  to  go  ashore  in  the  morning, 
a  drizzling  rain  began.  On  the  pier  at  Yoko- 
hama, standing  near  the  landing  stage,  were  five 
perambulators,  a  little  larger,  perhaps,  but  much 
resembling  those  used  by  infants.  I  looked 
about  for  the  babies,  thinking  there  must  be 
twins,  and  to  my  amazement  heard  his  lordship 
say,  "  Burns,  get  into  that  jinrickshaw  next  the 
last."  Already  the  Countess  and  Lady  Emily 
were  seated  in  theirs,  dashing  ahead ;  the  Earl  in 
front  of  all;  Mr.  Stubbs  behind.  His  vehicle 
had  a  cover,  and  Mr.  Stubbs  having  no  um- 
brella, the  little  Japanese  who  was  drawing  him 
—  in  spite  of  Mr.  Stubbs  insisting  that  he  did 
not  mind  showers  in  the  least  —  made  several 
low  bows  and  proceeded  to  put  up  the  hood.  A 
more  comical  sight  I  never  have  seen  than  Mr. 
Stubbs,  extremely  red  in  the  face,  protesting, 
his  chin  almost  upon  his  knees,  endeavouring  to 
indicate  by  uncomprehended  signs  and  gestures 
that  his  place  was  in  the  rear,  and  for  him  to  be 
leading  the  procession  was  quite  improper;  but 
in  spite  of  frantic  efforts  to  prevent,  he  was 

127 


128  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

being  trotted  off  in  that  baby  carriage,  ahead 
of  all  the  others,  to  the  hotel,  fortunately  but 
a  short  distance  from  where  we  left  the  water. 
Nice  rooms  were  ready  for  the  Earl's  party, 
overlooking  the  harbour  and  a  promenade  drive 
called  the  Bund. 

After  "  tiffin,"  a  meal  which  Mr.  Stubbs  and 
I  ordered  by  pointing  out  numbered  dishes  on 
the  bill  of  fare,  much  sight-seeing  began.  Soon 
I  became  quite  at  ease  in  the  rickshaws  —  very 
nice  ones  were  always  at  his  lordship's  disposal, 
the  men  wearing  a  cool  white  linen  livery  with 
blue  designs,  or  Japanese  markings,  upon  the 
front  and  back  —  following  Lady  Emily  to 
most  interesting  places;  very  different,  of 
course,  from  anything  I  had  ever  even  dreamed 
of  seeing.  Going  up  a  narrow  lane,  winding 
along  the  hill-side,  we  saw  quantities  of  tea-pots, 
all  shapes  and  sizes,  being  made.  The  workers, 
finishing  the  modelling  on  little  wheels,  seemed 
greatly  to  enjoy  their  out-of-door- work.  The 
Countess  bought  several  specimens  before  stop- 
ping to  see  a  very  strange  place  of  worship,  a 
Buddhist  temple.  Later,  at  a  pretty  tea  house 
on  top  of  the  hill,  where  one  has  a  fine  view  of 
the  town  and  harbour,  tea  without  cream  was 
served,  and  small  white  balls,  tasting  like  sugar, 
were  placed  in  each  saucer.  Japanese  do  not 
use  milk  as  we  do.  Over  the  door  of  a  tiny 
shop  in  a  town  where  many  foreigners  live,  I 
observed  "  Milk  Monopolist,"  written  in  Eng- 
lish. That  meant  the  only  milk  dealer  in  the 


TRAVELS   OF  A   LADY'S   MAID  129 

place,  Mr.  Stubbs  said,  and  shows  how  clever 
the  Japanese  are  in  catching  new  ideas. 

The  Countess  wishing  to  rest  the  next  day,  I 
was  told  early  in  the  morning,  to  go  with  Lady 
Emily.  We  went  by  train  a  short  distance,  then, 
taking  jinrickshaws,  —  some  of  the  men  draw- 
ing these  little  carts  in  the  country  regions  do 
look  so  worn  and  old;  a  bit  of  cloth  fastened 
about  their  foreheads  keeps  the  sweat  from  their 
wearied  eyes,  —  we  passed  many  green  rice 
fields,  and  had  glimpses  of  lakes  or  tanks,  cov- 
ered with  rose-coloured  water  lilies  resting  on 
broad  leaves;  finally  coming  out  close  to  the 
sea,  where,  beyond  a  sheltered  inlet,  white  crested 
breakers  dashed  fiercely  against  rocky  headlands, 
as  if  striving  to  destroy  the  stunted  pines  cling- 
ing there;  then  following  shaded  roads,  we 
passed  several  temples  before  resting  on  a  grassy 
platform  upon  which  was  seated  the  grandest 
figure  I  ever  beheld,  —  the  Buddha  worshipped 
by  many  Japanese.  This  god  has  a  dreamy 
look,  serene  and  benevolent  in  expression.  He 
loved  all  living  things,  they  say,  and  even  the 
snails  crawled  about  his  head,  making  a  sort  of 
crown  to  protect  him  from  the  heat  when  he  sat 
in  the  sun  contemplating. 

On  our  way  back  to  Yokohama  the  Japanese 
guide,  Mr.  Matsu,  who,  I  should  have  men- 
tioned, goes  everywhere  with  his  lordship,  said 
we  must  stop  at  a  country  tea  house  quite  dis- 
tant from  the  railway,  and  seldom  visited  by 
foreigners.  A  most  charming  place;  the  arbour 


130  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

covered  with  wistaria,  and  shaded  by  many  bam- 
boo trees.  A  stream  of  clear  water  flowed 
between  green  banks;  fish  darted  about,  rising 
from  the  deeper  pools  as  though  expecting  to 
be  fed.  Where  the  brook  broadened  into  a  small 
pond,  purple  and  yellow  iris  grew,  and  a  tiny 
island  reached  by  rustic  bridges  had  been  made. 
Dwarf  trees,  hardly  four  feet  high,  though 
nearly  a  century  old,  were  planted  by  moss- 
grown  lanterns,  the  still  waters  reflecting  and 
doubling  the  beauty  of  the  scene.  A  splendid 
white  bird  seemed  at  home  upon  the  island, 
though  I  could  not  see  its  nest. 

Before  tea  was  brought,  an  aged  man,  sandals 
on  his  bare  feet,  and  wearing  a  long,  smock-like 
garment,  toiled  up  the  steep  path,  leaning  heavily 
on  his  stick.  He  prostrated  himself  almost  to  the 
ground,  Matsu  bowing  in  this  same  manner. 
The  old  man  being  so  poorly  clad,  must  be  ask- 
ing relief,  I  thought,  and  felt  sure  money  would 
be  given,  but  Matsu,  who  was  listening  atten- 
tively, quietly  remarked,  "  This  is  the  proprietor 
of  the  tea  house;  he  welcomes  the  honourable 
strangers  and  thanks  them  for  coming  to  his 
abode."  As  this  was  being  repeated  to  his  lord- 
ship, the  old  man  fairly  beamed  with  delight, 
again  bowing  to  the  earth  when,  in  reply,  the 
Earl  said  a  few  words  complimenting  the  pretty 
maids  wearing  bright-hued  kimonos  embroidered 
with  sprays  of  cherry  blossoms,  who  brought  the 
tea  trays. 

The  way  Japanese  women  dress  their  hair, 


TRAVELS   OF   A   LADY'S   MAID  131 

Lady  Emily  considered  charming,  accordingly 
the  Countess  sent  for  a  hair-dresser  to  arrange 
her  ladyship's  head  in  true  Japanese  fashion, 
and  it  was  very  lovely,  with  a  red  japonica  fas- 
tened at  one  side.  Repeatedly,  when  in  Lady 
Emily's  room,  she  asked  if  I  knew  what  the 
plaintive  whistle  —  a  low,  musical  sound  com- 
ing clearly  through  the  open  window,  meant; 
so  I  got  Mr.  Stubbs  to  inquire.  He  ascertained 
that  the  Japanese  masseurs,  who  are  always 
blind,  go  about  in  the  evening  making  that  pecu- 
liar sound,  so  those  hearing  it  will  know  how  the 
weariness  of  the  day  can  be  rubbed  away.  Most 
capable  they  are  at  doing  this,  and  tattooing, 
also.  Mr.  Stubbs  himself  had  a  fine  butterfly, 
escaping  so  naturally  from  a  dragon  that  you 
might  think  it  alive,  worked  into  his  arm,  de- 
claring the  pain  almost  nothing,  though  it  did 
seem  to  me  a  foolish  thing  for  a  man  to  submit 
to. 

Lady  Emily  was  quite  enthusiastic  over  les- 
sons in  the  arranging  of  flower  vases,  given  her 
by  a  deft  young  Japanese,  whose  tiny  fingers 
twisted  and  turned  blossoms  and  leaves  with 
marvellous  skill. 

A  day  or  so  after  the  flower  studies  were  fin- 
ished Mr.  Stubbs  remarked,  —  having  received 
orders  to  pack,  and  especially  to  see  that  the 
Earl's  full  dress  uniform  was  in  good  shape, — 
the  next  start,  he  believed,  would  be  for  Tokyo, 
the  newer  capital  of  Japan,  where  his  lordship 
intended  having  audience  of  the  Mikado.  The 


132  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

garden  parties  being  over  for  the  season,  Mr. 
Stubbs  was  uncertain  whether  the  Countess 
would  be  present. 

We  were  hours  in  the  train  before  coming  to 
the  most  important  city  we  had  yet  seen.  Car- 
riages instead  of  jinrickshaws  waited  at  the  rail- 
way station  to  take  the  Earl's  party  to  a  large 
hotel.  In  the  afternoon  Lady  Emily  accom- 
panied the  Countess  to  the  Peeresses'  School, 
where  daughters  of  the  nobles  are  educated  and 
trained  in  court  ceremony.  In  one  room  young 
ladies  were  being  taught  the  proper  posture  in 
which  to  approach  royalty,  most  abject,  almost 
like  creeping  on  the  ground;  but  once  in  the 
open  air  play  grounds  they  seemed  the  prettiest, 
most  graceful  beings  ever  seen. 

After  visiting  the  school  the  Countess  and 
Lady  Emily  went  to  the  house  of  a  former  lady- 
in-waiting  to  the  Empress;  ceremonial  tea  wras 
served  here,  quite  different  from  anything  seen 
in  other  parts  of  the  world.  The  guests,  —  not 
more  than  ten,  —  after  removing  their  shoes  at 
the  door,  sat  upon  the  floor;  that  is,  on  rugs 
spread  over  beautiful  matting;  two  maids  crept 
in  bringing  the  tea,  which  was  then  beaten  with 
a  little  whisk  and  poured  into  a  bowl,  from  which 
each  guest  drank,  after  making  low  bows  in  a 
formal  manner.  There  was  no  furniture  in  the 
room;  a  shelf  or  alcove  held  a  jar  of  lovely 
chrysanthemums;  beyond  this  was  a  beautifully 
painted  roll  or  screen.  Almost  no  conversation 
seemed  expected  until  later,  when  all  followed 


TRAVELS   OF  A   LADY'S  MAID   133 

the  hostess,  a  tall,  most  graceful  lady,  though 
no  longer  young,  into  a  larger  room,  where  the 
Countess  was  glad  to  find  chairs  provided,  and 
listened  to  music.  Two  demure  maidens,  nieces 
of  the  hostess,  sat  on  the  floor  playing  upon 
instruments  something  like  harps. 

His  lordship  being  unable  to  have  audience 
of  the  Emperor  until  the  following  day,  the 
Countess  and  Lady  Emily  started  for  Nikko, 
where  his  lordship  joined  them,  reaching  this 
charming  mountain  place  in  the  late  afternoon. 
Oh,  such  beautiful  trees,  temples  and  tombs! 
so  quiet  and  stately.  A  delightful  path  crossed 
a  red  bridge  and  followed  the  river  to  a  garden 
of  gods.  There  are  said  to  be  a  thousand  images 
of  Buddha,  statues  plentiful  as  rose  trees,  in  the 
Queen's  pleasance,  but,  though  Mr.  Stubbs  and 
I  counted  more  than  once,  we  could  make  only 
nine  hundred  and  ninety. 

On  arriving  at  Nikko,  the  Earl  declared  his 
interview  with  the  Mikado  well  worth  wait- 
ing for.  His  Majesty  is  strong  and  kindly; 
much  more  agreeable  in  appearance  than  repre- 
sented by  his  portrait;  and  the  Earl  does  not 
wonder  at  the  worshipping  loyalty  of  his  sub- 
jects. The  native  hotel  where  we  stopped 
seemed  more  like  a  doll's  house  than  a  dwelling 
place  for  grown  people.  Sliding  screens  of 
heavy  paper  take  the  place  of  doors  and  win- 
dows. There  was  little  that  could  be  called  fur- 
niture, though  the  beds  were  comfortable  and  the 


134  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

meals  —  once  you  are  used  to  them  —  nicely 
prepared. 

Nikko  being  a  sacred  spot,  on  account  of  the 
many  splendid  shrines,  watching  the  pilgrims 
who  throng  there  is  most  interesting.  Thou- 
sands come  to  the  beautifully  adorned  temples 
clustered  under  glorious  cryptomeria  trees, 
where  the  shaded  lanes  are  calming  and  restful. 

Nikko  is  a  favourite  resort  with  the  Royal 
Family,  and  before  leaving,  we  saw  the  Crown 
Prince  and  his  grandmother.  The  former  rode 
a  spirited  black  horse.  All  Japanese  prostrate 
themselves,  or  stand  bending  over,  almost  as 
though  in  pain,  as  he  passes.  A  bishop  of  the 
Church  of  England,  standing  near  the  roadside, 
showed  greatest  respect  in  the  same  manner. 
Meeting  the  grandmother  of  the  Crown  Prince 
on  one  of  the  mountain  roads,  attended  by  a 
chamberlain  and  several  court  ladies,  the  Count- 
ess spoke  with  her  through  an  interpreter.  Her 
face  was  keenly  interesting,  and  the  bright  eyes 
evidently  missed  nothing  in  the  beautiful  scen- 
ery at  the  point  where  their  jinrickshaws  met. 
Japanese  costume  was,  of  course,  worn  by  the 
old  lady,  and  her  gray  hair  was  becomingly  ar- 
ranged upon  a  small  head  that  had  no  other 
covering. 

One  unpleasantness  came  the  evening  before 
leaving  Nikko  for  Kyoto,  but  was  soon  over. 
I  did  not  realize  at  first  what  the  shock  and 
trembling  meant.  While  waiting  for  the  Count- 
ess to  come  in,  having  just  lighted  a  candle  on 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  135 

the  dressing-room  table,  I  turned  towards  Lady 
Emily's  room  with  another  candlestick  in  my 
hand;  suddenly  my  knees  seemed  to  give  way, 
I  had  the  feeling  of  mounting  high  steps,  with- 
out knowing  where  I  could  find  a  foothold,  and, 
to  my  amazement,  the  big  lantern  hanging  from 
the  ceiling  in  the  middle  of  the  room  began  spin- 
ning around  as  though  possessed,  and  at  that 
instant  the  candle  I  had  placed  on  the  table  fell 
from  its  holder  and  spluttered  out  in  a  dish  of 
flowers  standing  there.  Then,  in  the  darkness, 
I  heard  strange  rumbling,  snapping  sounds ;  and 
in  the  street  below  some  one  cried,  "  Run  for 
your  life!  It  is  an  earthquake! "  A  moment 
later  all  was  so  still  and  steady  again,  I  won- 
dered if  I  could  have  been  dreaming;  but  soon 
Mr.  Stubbs  rushed  in,  saying  the  crashing  had 
been  dreadful  where  he  was,  and  he  did  not  know 
when  he  should  get  over  such  a  shock  to  his 
nerves.  There  was  a  French  lady  stopping  in 
the  hotel,  and  her  maid  told  me  of  a  very  severe 
earthquake  at  Tokyo  a  year  ago,  which  so 
alarmed  her  mistress  she  had  never  recovered 
from  the  experience.  Large  pieces  of  stone  fell 
from  above  the  doors  and  windows.  Immense 
cracks  came,  and  walls  disappeared  in  clouds  of 
dust,  burying  many  in  the  ruins.  Running  to 
the  nursery  to  see  if  her  child  was  safe,  the  lady 
found  the  young  Japanese  ayah,  or  nurse, 
quietly  bending  over  the  cradle,  as  if,  with  her 
own  slender  body,  she  could  protect  her  little 
charge  from  all  injury. 


A  TOUR  to  visit  the  principal  towns  had  been 
planned,  but  owing  to  flooding  rains  destroying 
parts  of  the  railway,  it  was  given  up,  and  we 
returned  to  Yokohama,  taking  from  there  a 
"  maru  "  —  which  means  "  boat  "  in  Japanese 
—  in  order  to  reach  the  old  imperial  city  of 
Kyoto. 

When  I  saw  the  native  vessel,  the  smallness  of 
its  cabins,  and  how  crowded  it  was,  owing  to  the 
floods,  I  was  glad  the  voyage  would  be  short; 
only  one  night  on  board.  I  went  immediately 
to  the  tiny  room  where  Lady  Emily  was  to 
sleep  and  began  trying  to  stow  bags  and  pack- 
ages out  of  the  way,  when,  without  knocking, 
though  making  many  profound  bows  when  once 
inside  the  door,  an  official  appeared,  bringing 
with  him  an  elderly  Japanese  wearing  a  dark 
kimono,  big  spectacles  with  tortoise-shell  rims 
making  his  eyes  look  dark  and  strange.  Dis- 
tinctly, though  not  in  very  plain  English,  the 
officer  said,  "  This  Jap-nese  genleman  shall  oc- 
pie  that  bed,"  pointing  to  a  long  seat  under  the 
port-hole  where  Lady  Emily's  gown  and  silk 
pillows  were  spread  out.  Both  the  men  seemed 

136 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  137 

surprised,  bowing  many  times,  when  I  said,  oh, 
no,  it  would  never  be  permitted. 

I  started  at  once  to  find  the  Earl,  when  Mr. 
Stubbs,  happening  to  hear  conversation  going 
on,  came  to  the  door  and  finally  made  the  official 
understand  that  though  it  was  quite  true  there 
was  an  extra  berth  in  the  cabin,  it  could  not 
possibly  be  used  by  a  stranger.  So,  after  listening 
attentively  and  making  many  more  bows,  they 
departed  with  all  their  belongings^  greatly  to 
my  relief.  Mr.  Stubbs  has  been  told  no  for- 
eigner really  understands  the  Japanese,  their 
ways  are  so  different;  what  little  you  do  get  at 
is  vastly  to  their  credit,  he  says;  accomplishing 
so  much  in  the  way  of  education  and  wars,  in 
a  few  years;  so  brave  and  devoted  to  "Dai 
Nippon,"  meaning  Japan,  or  the  land  of  the 
Rising  Sun. 

Travellers  may  laugh  at  seeing  three  monkeys 
carved  over  a  place  of  worship;  but  once  you 
know  the  meaning,  it  is  very  sensible,  as  it  repre- 
sents some  god  protecting  highways  and  appeal- 
ing to  passers-by.  One  ape  covers  his  mouth, 
holding  both  paws  firmly  over  it;  the  second 
closes  his  ears,  and  the  third  covers  his  eyes. 
This  represents  the  temptations  coming  to  all, 
and  is  intended  to  remind  pilgrims  that  they 
must  speak  no  evil,  that  no  wicked  words  must 
be  listened  to,  and  that  we  must  ask  that  our 
eyes  shall  behold  only  what  is  right.  Something 
like  a  prayer,  if  truly  used,  Mr.  Stubbs  is  in- 
clined to  believe.  The  images  set  up  in  some 


138  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

of  their  temples  have  a  very  Christian  expression 
of  countenance. 

Sunday  was  spent  among  hills  where  views 
of  Fujiyama  were  very  lovely.  Many  people 
visit  this  region  for  the  sake  of  its  hot  springs, 
also,  all  Japanese  delighting  to  bathe  in  water 
that  is  almost  boiling. 

On  the  way  to  Kyoto  came  an  experience 
much  worse  than  that  first  jinrickshaw  ride.  In 
trying  to  reach  a  railway  station  we  were 
stopped  by  raging  floods.  Villages  and  bridges 
had  been  washed  away,  and  in  the  rushing 
waters  we  saw  uprooted  trees,  thatched  roofs  of 
houses,  and  many  other  signs  of  destruction. 
By  going  a  little  lower  down  the  stream,  some 
said,  it  might  be  possible  to  cross,  and  on  reach- 
ing this  point  his  lordship  was  told  the  ford  was 
safe,  if  made  at  once;  otherwise,  as  the  waters 
were  still  rising,  delay  might  mean  days  of  de- 
tention. The  official  giving  this  information 
declared  each  person  must  be  carried  on  the 
back  of  a  coolie.  Of  course,  when  his  lordship 
gave  the  command,  I  could  only  obey,  humiliat- 
ing though  it  was  to  be  perched  like  a  child  on 
the  back  of  a  small,  struggling  man  who  floun- 
dered through  waters  nearly  to  his  waist,  my 
arms  closely  clasping  his  neck;  for  I  was  indeed 
fearful  of  falling  into  those  swift  flowing  tor- 
rents, and  Mr.  Stubbs  was  in  the  same  unfor- 
tunate position  behind.  I  could  not  help  won- 
dering what  Miss  Barnes  would  have  done  had 
she  been  there,  and  what  new  perils  might  await 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID    139 

us  in  circling  the  globe.  Finally,  we  were  safely 
put  down  on  the  other  side  of  the  flood,  and, 
finding  jinrickshaws,  caught  a  train,  reaching 
our  destination  before  dark. 


CHAPTER   XXX 

4  WHAT  a  delightfully  poetic  scene !  "  Lady 
Emily  exclaimed,  as  I  unfastened  a  door  leading 
to  the  balcony,  for  her  to  breakfast  there,  over- 
looking Kyoto,  early  the  following  morning; 
and  one  could  not  fail  to  comprehend  her  lady- 
ship's meaning.  Great  temple  bells  sounded 
deep,  melodious  notes,  as  troops  of  children 
passed  beneath  sombre,  sheltering  pines.  Dews 
or  showers  had  left  thousands  of  quivering, 
flashing  drops  among  the  dark  needles;  gentle 
breezes  swayed  and  rustled  through  the  bam- 
boos, bringing  fragrance  of  blossoms  and  moist 
warm  earth.  Flitting  from  one  sunny  space  to 
another,  in  bright-hued  raiment,  the  children 
suggested  gorgeous  tropical  birds  darting  hither 
and  thither,  their  pretty  gestures  and  gleeful 
laughter  adding  life  to  a  charming  picture. 
Mists,  like  thin  curtains,  half  hid  the  town  and 
valley,  as  though  the  people  still  slept.  On  dis- 
tant hills  fleecy  clouds  rested  like  white  pine 
trees  with  snowy  branches. 

It  being  important  to  reach  some  seaport 
where  vessels  for  China  touched,  the  Countess 
much  regretted  that  a  short  stay  only  could  be 
made  in  so  attractive  a  spot;  but  before  leaving 

140 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  141 

Kyoto,  many  interesting  palaces,  gardens  and 
temples  were  visited.  At  one  of  the  newer 
shrines,  the  long  black  bell-rope  was  made  of 
hair  given  by  Japanese  women  for  this  pur- 
pose. 

It  was  beautifully  clear  and  still  that  night 
we  left  Kobe,  by  the  great  "  Empress  "  steamer, 
and  stars  seemed  shining  in  the  waters  below 
as  well  as  in  the  heavens  above.  The  next  day, 
passing  through  inland  seas  until  we  reached 
Nagasaki,  was  most  delightful.  This  lovely 
town  stands  on  a  hillside,  above  the  Bay.  When 
the  coaling,  for  which  we  had  stopped  at  Naga- 
saki, was  accomplished,  on  the  open  sea  outside 
the  harbour,  and  beyond  the  rocks  where  Chris- 
tians are  said  to  have  sadly  perished  many  years 
ago,  we  met  unpleasant  weather,  almost  a  ty- 
phoon, which,  from  the  captain's  description, 
must  be  very  bad  indeed.  Soon  the  storm 
passed,  and  we  entered  a  gulf  or  channel,  into 
which  empties  one  of  the  great  rivers,  called 
"  China's  Sorrow  "  because  of  the  sad  damage 
caused  by  its  floods,  reaching  before  long  the 
port  of  Shanghai,  at  first  sight  surprisingly  like 
an  English  town.  On  the  pier,  policemen,  wear- 
ing regulation  helmets  like  our  own  London 
"  Bobbies,"  waved  the  crowds  on,  a  large  num- 
ber of  cricketers  having  come  to  meet  some  of 
our  passengers  who  were  members  of  a  Japan- 
ese cricket  club,  a  grand  match-game  having 
been  arranged  for  that  afternoon  at  the  cricket- 
field.  The  church  near  the  pleasant  hotel 


142  TRAVELS   OF  A   LADY'S   MAID 

looked  as  though  it  might  have  been  brought 
from  some  English  town  and  set  down  just  as 
it  stood. 

When  we  landed,  Lady  Emily  drove  with  the 
Countess  to  an  American  Mission  College,  stop- 
ping on  the  way  there  to  see  the  cricket  match. 
I  was  glad  of  the  chance  to  go  to  an  outfitting 
establishment,  having  been  told  it  would  be  easy 
to  have  the  holland  skirt  and  jacket  I  needed 
made  in  a  couple  of  days  by  Chinese  tailors. 
Mr.  Stubbs  wanted  new  gloves,  and  so  went 
with  me.  After  explaining  to  a  large,  genteel 
person  wearing  a  black  silk  gown,  —  a  widow, 
probably,  and  surely  from  London,  Mr.  Stubbs 
thought,  —  what  was  required,  she  replied, 
"  Certainly,  you  can  have  the  costume  without 
delay; "  and,  calling  a  dignified,  smartly- 
dressed  Chinese,  standing  near,  scissors  in  hand, 
a  long  queue  hanging  down  behind  him,  she 
said,  in  a  very  prompt  manner,  "  Boy  catchee 
Missee  round  waistee;  makee  long  skirtee,  can 
do? "  The  Chinaman  bending  over  me  in  his 
violet  silk  coat,  muttering  unintelligibly,  pulled 
out  a  long  tape.  I  understood  then,  what  had 
been  said  meant  my  measures  were  to  be  taken; 
but  it  did  seem  a  most  extraordinary  way  to  get 
at  so  simple  a  thing.  Mr.  Stubbs  almost  re- 
sented the  measuring,  but  afterwards  remarked, 
he  presumed  speaking  in  that  manner  was  cus- 
tomary, he  himself  having  heard  one  of  the  ship's 
officers  say  quite  seriously,  to  a  steward, 


TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S   MAID  143 

"  Catchee  cup  coffee  top  side  deck,"  and  the  man 
appeared  instantly  to  know  that  coffee  must  be 
served  on  the  upper  deck  after  dinner. 

The  work  on  my  gown  was  neatly  done,  I 
must  say,  and  sent  home  when  promised,  two 
days  later,  just  before  we  started  up  the  coast 
to  Tien-Tsin,  on  our  way  to  the  great  city  of 
Peking.  This  time  the  vessel  taken  belonged 
to  a  Chinese  company,  though  its  officers  were 
Scotch.  To  hear  the  mate  say  we  should  get 
off  in  the  forenoon,  making  that  pleasant  burr- 
ing sound  before  the  "  noon,"  seemed  very  nice 
and  homelike  to  me.  Though  the  trip  began  on 
a  river,  one  could  hardly  distinguish  it  from  the 
sea,  the  waters  being  very  yellow,  and  spread- 
ing out  a  long  distance  beyond  its  low,  broken, 
muddy  banks. 

At  Chi  Foo,  the  following  day,  several  hours 
were  spent  and  chairs  taken  to  that  beautiful 
bluff  overlooking  the  Pe-chi-li  Gulf,  where 
friends  of  the  Earl's  resided.  Lady  Emily 
boarded  the  vessel  again  at  twilight,  as  the  rosy 
glow  faded  from  the  Gulf's  unruffled  waters. 

Shortly  before  reaching  Tien-Tsin,  forts  were 
passed,  and  I  heard  the  Captain  say  he  feared 
there  would  be  trouble  at  the  bar.  It  seems 
the  water  is  very  shallow  over  the  shifting  sands 
rising  up  there,  so  crossing  is  dangerous;  but 
after  an  hour's  delay  the  boat  floated  safely 
into  its  moorings,  and  soon  we  were  on  the  train 
going  to  the  town  —  not  an  attractive  place. 


144  TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S   MAID 

All  seemed  bare  and  barren  since  leaving  the 
green,  beautiful  Japan  and  its  smiling,  friendly 
people,  always  greeting  one  another  with  cheer- 
ful "  Banzai,"  or  "  Sayonara." 


CHAPTER   XXXI 

ARRANGEMENTS  having  been  made  by  the 
British  Consul  for  the  Earl's  visit  to  Peking, 
the  next  morning  we  went  on  board  a  small, 
private  boat,  his  lordship  having  decided  that 
travelling  more  in  the  native  manner  would  give 
a  chance  to  see  how  the  people  really  lived,  and 
be  interesting  and  instructive.  Though  the 
launch  had  an  engine,  coolies  were  to  help  draw 
it  in  some  places,  and  soon  a  dozen  were  tugging 
at  a  long  rope,  as  many  more  behind,  pulling 
another  craft  in  which,  the  Earl  told  Mr.  Stubbs, 
a  bed  could  be  made  for  the  night  or  two  on 
board.  Much  groaning  was  heard  from  the 
coolies,  though  the  men  seemed  in  good  condi- 
tion and  not  working  too  hard.  Mr.  Stubbs 
believed  it  meant  they  wanted  more  "  cash ; " 
for  that  is  the  way  money,  —  big  copper  pen- 
nies, strung  together  through  a  hole  in'  the 
centre  —  is  spoken  of  in  China.  Nice  meals 
were  served  in  a  tiny  saloon  where  the  Countess 
and  Lady  Emily  slept. 

Watching  the  river  sights  was  like  seeing  pic- 
tures slowly  moving.  Many  wretched  mud  vil- 
lages and  sadly  poor  people  were  passed;  very 
few  trees  were  seen,  though  just  before  sunset 

145 


146  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

we  came  to  a  large  grove,  where  thousands  of 
rooks  appeared  to  find  shelter  for  the  night.  On 
the  Pei-ho,  —  that  being  the  name  of  the  river 
upon  which  we  travelled  to  Peking  —  were 
many  curious  boats,  some  having  eyes  painted 
on  the  bows.  Li,  the  Chinese  guide,  explained 
thus:  "  If  you  give  no  eyes,  how  can  boat  see 
where  to  go? "  On  more  than  one  vessel  a  fine 
white  cock  was  fastened  near  the  prow;  this 
meant  some  rich  man  had  died  in  the  Imperial 
City,  and  the  bird  signified  that  his  body  was 
being  taken  home  for  burial. 

The  stream  winds  and  turns  many  times,  and 
by  moonlight  we  walked  a  long  distance  on  the 
bank,  Mr.  Stubbs  declaring  the  scene  so  alluring 
and  composing;  he  could  stroll  on  for  ever. 
The  second  day  a  very  high  tower,  or  pagoda, 
came  in  sight,  marking  the  approach  to  a  great 
canal,  one  of  the  most  ancient  waterways  in  the 
world,  said  the  Earl,  and  leading  to  Peking. 
Among  the  most  interesting  sights  along  this 
water  course  are  the  many  stone  tablets  set  up 
by  dutiful  children  in  memory  of  departed 
parents. 

Large  numbers  of  boats  laden  with  grain 
were  met,  and  on  the  plains,  just  before  lofty 
walls  outlining  the  Imperial  City  came  into 
view,  we  passed  men  pushing  heavy  wheelbar- 
rows, helped  on  their  way  by  small  sails  attached 
in  front;  one  man  trundled  two  women,  at  quite 
a  smart  pace. 

It  is  astonishing  to  see  what  heavy  loads  are 


TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  147 

carried  by  natives  in  Japan  and  China.  Their 
diet  must  agree  with  them,  Mr.  Stubbs  thinks, 
and  the  forcing  of  opium  on  the  heathen  by  our 
Government  —  "  foreign  smoke,"  those  enslaved 
by  the  habit  despairingly  call  it  —  is  shameful, 
in  his  opinion.  They  are  sensible  in  other  ways, 
he  considers,  having  been  told  roasting  of  flesh 
was  discovered,  in  China,  owing  to  a  Mandarin, 
or  some  such  personage,  having  been  so  unfortu- 
nate as  to  have  his  house  burned.  A  small  pig 
accidentally  perishing  in  the  ruins  gave  the  Chi- 
nese an  idea,  ages  ago,  of  roasting  porkers.  He 
could  not  vouch  for  this  tale,  but  believes  it  true ; 
and  thinks  also  men  so  devoted  to  children,  and 
venerating  ancestors,  must  have  other  fine  quali- 
ties. 

Their  fondness  for  birds  and  flowers  is  also 
to  be  commended.  Repeatedly  Mr.  Stubbs  has 
seen  mature  men  taking  their  pet  birds  out  walk- 
ing, caged  or  fastened  to  a  cane  which  the  own- 
ers keep  near  them  when  kite-flying  is  going  on. 
Venerable  men  seem  as  merry  as  boys  over  the 
game. 

Carts  of  a  strange  shape  drawn  by  mules, 
holding  but  one  person  besides  the  driver,  and 
stranger  chairs  —  the  Countess  thought  them  not 
unlike  those  sedan  chairs  used  by  her  ladyship's 
grandmother  in  olden  days  in  England  —  were 
waiting  where  we  left  the  last  canal  lock. 

Hearing  of  slight  illness,  a  fever  of  some  sort, 
at  the  British  Legation,  instead  of  stopping 
there,  as  his  lordship  had  intended,  it  was  de- 


148  TRAVELS   OF  A   LADY'S   MAID 

cided  to  go  to  a  hotel.  Each  chair  having  five 
bearers,  and  a  lot  of  servants  coming  to  attend 
to  the  luggage,  there  was  quite  a  lengthy  .pro- 
cession to  enter  the  city.  We  went  under  high 
stone  gateways  and  through  courtyards,  where 
soldiers  were  practising  shooting  arrows  from 
long  bows.  The  surrounding  walls,  of  a  tre- 
mendous height,  had  small,  oddly  shaped  build- 
ings upon  them.  Above  the  gates  and  where 
the  walls  joined,  guard  towers  were  placed. 
The  streets  were  wretchedly  dusty.  We  jolted 
over  ruts  and  stones  most  unpleasantly.  After 
crossing  a  bridge  and  passing  through  many 
broader,  dirtier  streets  —  the  houses  must  be 
clean,  Mr.  Stubbs  thinks,  as  everything  in  the 
way  of  filth  appears  to  be  put  outside  the  doors 
—  I  was  glad  to  reach  a  decent-looking  build- 
ing, and  find  a  room  where  some  of  the  plentiful 
Chinese  dust  could  be  washed  off. 

The  following  morning  being  Sunday,  all 
walked  to  a  small  church,  adjoining  the  Lega- 
tion. To  hear  the  English  service  in  such  a  far 
away  spot  gave  one  a  strange  home-like  feeling. 
That  afternoon  Lady  Emily  accompanied  the 
Countess  to  a  school  where  blind  girls  are 
taught.  Their  eagerness  to  learn  was  a  most 
touching  sight.  They  tried  to  sing,  reading 
from  raised  type,  and  succeeded  well,  though 
weeping  pathetically  when  that  chapter  from  the 
New  Testament  describing  the  healing  of  the 
blind  was  selected. 

After  leaving  the  Mission  we  went  upon  the 


TRAVELS   OF  A   LADY'S  MAID  149 

city  wall.  A  bewildering  scene  it  was  to  watch 
from  there  the  throngs  of  people  in  the  streets 
below:  vendors  of  curious  wares;  wedding  and 
funeral  processions,  difficult  to  tell  one  from 
the  other  without  the  guide's  explaining  about 
the  colours,  and  boxes  in  which  are  carried  gifts, 
and  the  bride  herself!  The  music  made  a  dread- 
ful din,  and  those  surging  masses  of  strange 
human  beings,  in  and  out  of  the  gateway,  was 
most  wearing  on  the  nerves.  Looking  towards 
the  country  was  pleasanter,  where,  midst  a 
stretch  of  park-like  green,  stands  that  Temple 
of  Heaven,  the  most  holy  spot  in  Peking.  Once 
a  year  the  Emperor  goes  within  its  tiled  walls, 
alone,  to  offer  prayer  for  himself  and  his  people. 

A  great  deal  of  time  was  given  to  sight -seeing. 
Chairs  being  used  from  morning  until  night, 
as  much  walking  in  those  horrid  streets  — 
"  swinish,"  Mr.  Stubbs  calls  them  —  is  decidedly 
unpleasant.  Many  purchases,  also,  were  made, 
jars  and  vases  enameled  in  a  beautiful  shade  of 
blue;  jades,  Chinese  scenes  and  porcelain,  some 
rare  pieces  having  the  royal  five-clawed  dragon 
mark  upon  them;  and  repeatedly  the  Countess 
wore  the  dinner  gown  she  had  directed  me  to 
pack. 

Representatives  from  all  lands,  it  seems,  re- 
side in  Peking,  watching,  so  far  as  they  can, 
what  goes  on  in  the  sacred  inner  city,  where  the 
Emperor  lives  and  the  Dowager  Empress  reigns 
and  rules  as  she  pleases.  She  gives  audience  to 
foreigners  and  accepts  Bibles,  but  all  the  same 


150  TRAVELS   OF  A   LADY'S   MAID 

they  say  distrusts  the  strangers,  who  may  be 
wanting,  at  any  time,  to  divide  up  the  land 
among  themselves.  Both  Empresses  and  the 
Emperor  being  still  at  the  summer  place  upon 
the  hills,  miles  beyond  Peking,  where,  sur- 
rounded by  gardens  and  lakes  they  escape  the 
excessive  heat  of  the  city,  the  Earl  did  not  re- 
quest audience  of  their  Majesties. 

The  fourth  day  after  reaching  Peking,  the 
Countess  told  me  an  excursion  of  three  days 
would  be  made  to  the  Great  Wall,  one  of  the 
wonders  of  the  world,  built  ages  ago  to  separate 
China  from  the  rest  of  the  world.  I  was  given 
particular  instructions  regarding  what  must  be 
packed  in  the  hold-alls,  as  no  other  luggage 
could  be  taken  on  the  trip. 


CHAPTER   XXXII 

LADY  EMILY  expressed  much  delight  at  the 
prospect  of  going  to  the  Great  Wall,  and  before 
starting  called  me  to  the  courtyard  to  "  see  the 
caravan."  First,  a  saddle-horse  for  the  Earl; 
then  two  chairs  to  be  used  by  the  Countess  and 
Lady  Emily  in  beginning  the  trip,  each  having 
four  bearers  and  an  extra  man  to  direct.  All 
wore  odd-shaped  round,  flat  hats  with  tassels. 
Next  came  seven  of  those  dreaded  Peking  carts. 
To  mount  them  you  climb  over  a  high  wheel, 
then,  sitting  upon  the  floor,  your  feet  are  straight 
out  in  front.  Getting  any  sort  of  easy  position 
is  impossible;  there  are  no  springs  and  nothing 
to  hold  by  as  you  bound  over  great  stones  or 
swerve  into  deep  ruts  on  the  wretchedly  kept 
roads.  These  carts  resemble  large  barrels  on 
wheels,  though  covered  by  a  canvas  top. 

Mr.  Stubbs  rode  in  the  last  vehicle;  three 
guards  followed  on  horseback  and  two  extra 
carts,  or  litters,  held  luggage,  also  bedding,  as 
nothing  of  the  sort  could  be  expected  at  places 
where  stops  must  be  made.  The  October  air 
was  delightfully  clear  and  soft;  just  a  slight 
haze  over  the  sun  after  we  started.  While  the 
Countess  and  Lady  Emily  stopped,  with  the 

161 


152  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

Earl,  to  see  some  halls  of  learning,  where  the 
precepts  of  Confucius,  a  famous  teacher,  are 
taught,  we  went  on  slowly  through  crowded,  un- 
sightly streets.  Many  houses  had  finely  carved 
fronts ;  but  "  not  one  in  which  you  would  care 
to  live,"  Mr.  Stubbs  asserted,  and  I  agreed. 

Beyond,  near  several  large  temples  having 
high  walls  covered  with  yellow  tiles  upon  which 
dragons  were  stamped,  we  again  stopped,  and 
his  lordship  visited  a  monastery.  The  bonzes, 
or  priests  assembled  about  the  gates,  powerful 
men  with  broad,  smooth  faces,  seemed  none 
too  willing  to  admit  foreigners,  and  I  feared  it 
might  not  be  very  safe  for  any  one  entering  there 
unprotected. 

After  crossing  a  splendid  wide  white  marble 
bridge,  a  sort  of  stable-yard  place  was  reached, 
and  the  luncheon,  brought  in  Mr.  Stubbs's  cart, 
was  eaten  in  a  sheltered  corner,  where  the  crowds 
of  curious  people  who  pressed  near,  commenting 
and  wanting  to  watch  all  that  was  going  on, 
could  be  shut  out. 

Many  miles  beyond,  and  after  dark,  we  came 
to  another  enclosure,  called  an  inn,  and  here 
preparations  were  made  for  spending  the  night. 
Earth  .walls  surrounded  three  sides  of  this  en- 
closure, and  at  the  rear  a  stone  hut  partly  rilled 
the  remaining  space.  In  one  of  the  two  window- 
less  rooms  upon  a  kang,  a  low,  hollow  brick 
platform,  in  colder  weather  used  as  a  stove,  the 
Countess  and  Lady  Emily  slept,  my  mattress 
by  the  side,  on  the  hard  earthen  floor.  In  the 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  153 

next  cell-like  apartment  his  lordship  directed 
bedding  to  be  spread  for  himself  and  a  gentle- 
man from  the  Legation  who  had  joined  the  Earl 
after  lunch.  Sleep  seemed  impossible  in  that 
strange  place.  I  feared,  too,  disturbing  their 
ladyships.  Mules  and  camels  just  outside  the 
large  doors  groaned  and  snorted,  and  dogs 
barked.  I  was  indeed  glad  when  streaks  of  light 
came  through  a  small  barred  opening  high  on 
the  wall,  which  I  had  not  observed  in  the  dark- 
ness of  the  night  before,  and  I  could  slip  quietly 
out  and  heat  water  in  the  spirit  lamp  without 
arousing  the  Countess  and  Lady  Emily.  Al- 
most everything  needed  for  the  meals  having 
been  brought  from  Peking,  breakfast  was 
quickly  prepared,  and  soon  after  the  Countess 
felt  quite  ready  to  continue  the  trip,  telling  me 
another  night  must  be  spent  at  this  extraordi- 
nary inn,  on  returning  from  the  Great  Wall. 

The  road  kept  more  in  the  open  country,  and 
we  passed  flocks  of  sheep.  The  shepherd  of  the 
largest  flock,  a  lad  of  fifteen  years,  perhaps,  clad 
in  little  but  rags,  waved  a  soiled  yellow  flag, 
signifying,  —  said  the  official  gentleman  from 
the  Legation,  —  that  those  sheep  were  destined 
to  feed  the  Imperial  Court  at  Peking  and  must 
not  be  disturbed  under  penalty  of  severest  pun- 
ishment. 

In  spite  of  being  very  stiff  from  our  cramped 
position  in  the  carts,  Mr.  Stubbs  and  I  thought 
the  day  most  enjoyable.  We  rode  through  nar- 
row valleys,  then  out  by  a  tunnel-like  pass,  un- 


der  an  arched  gateway  with  interesting  old 
carvings.  After  this,  wilder  regions  were 
reached  and  soon  the  Great  Wall  itself  closed 
the  way  before  us,  the  longest,  loneliest  thing 
I  have  ever  seen,  or  imagined,  stretching  away 
for  hundreds  of  miles,  over  plains  and  mountains, 
hillsides  and  waste  places  by  the  sea. 

After  lunching  by  the  wayside,  all  climbed 
many  stone  steps  leading  through  a  deserted 
guard-house  to  the  top  of  the  Great  Wall,  walk- 
ing there  for  miles  along  a  broad  stone  path. 
The  wall  itself  is  built  of  large  granite  bricks, 
the  former  so  weather-beaten  and  gray  they  re- 
semble the  stone  parapets  protecting  each  side 
of  the  roadway.  This  road  must  be  nearly 
twenty  feet  wide,  and  broader  in  places  where 
there  are  turrets  or  watch  towers.  From  the 
highest  point  we  could  see  fully  thirty  miles  of 
wall,  Mr.  Stubbs  believed,  and  this  labour  of 
unknown  millions  of  hands  appeared  as  endur- 
ing as  the  rocks  themselves,  upon  which  its 
dragon-like  curves  rested. 

Lady  Emily  was  confident  she  could  never 
forget  that  view  over  the  Mongolian  plains;  the 
rugged  mountain  scenery,  and,  as  far  as  eye 
can  reach,  the  towering  heights  of  those  grim, 
gray  walls.  Her  ladyship  could  hardly  bear  to 
leave  so  fascinating  a  spot,  and  before  we  again 
entered  the  Pass  of  Nankou,  the  moon  came  up, 
strangely  overshadowing  the  road,  as  the  mule 
litters  moved  quietly  on,  passing  long  strings  of 


soft-stepping,  though  protesting  camels,  heavily 
laden  with  tea  for  the  Imperial  City. 

Having  important  despatches  to  send,  the 
officer  of  the  Legation  was  obliged  to  return  to 
Peking  the  following  day,  but  told  the  Earl,  if 
the  Countess  did  not  object  to  another  early 
start,  he  would  gladly  escort  them  part  of  the 
way  to  the  famous  Ming  tombs.  So,  immedi- 
ately after  a  very  early  breakfast  served  on  the 
one  rough  table  in  her  ladyship's  room,  all 
started,  and  in  spite  of  bad  roads,  reached,  before 
noon,  the  old  tombs  where  emperors  are  buried 
on  a  beautiful  hillside,  among  the  oak  trees. 
Beyond  temples  and  high  walls,  topped  with 
yellow  dragon  tiles,  more  steps  had  to  be  climbed 
before  arriving  at  the  place  of  burial.  The  guide 
thought  the  kings  might  have  been  buried  lower 
down,  inside  the  enclosure;  but  no  one  seemed 
sure  which  was  the  exact  spot. 

Before  returning  to  Peking  the  gentleman 
from  the  Legation  carefully  instructed  the  head 
guard  regarding  routes,  saying  though  he  knew 
the  man  to  be  entirely  faithful,  he  seemed  some- 
what uncertain  about  the  roads  after  leaving 
some  noted  place  where  a  magnificent  avenue 
with  stone  statues  must  be  seen.  It  was  indeed 
a  curious  street  —  men  as  large  as  giants,  ele- 
phants, camels  and  other  strange  objects,  of  im- 
mense size,  ranged  on  both  sides  of  the  way,  as 
an  approach  to  the  ancient  tombs.  The  mules 
and  horses  cowered  and  plunged  uncontrollably, 
decidedly  alarmed  by  the  figures,  each,  sepa- 


156  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

rately,  having  to  be  urged  past,  all  threatening, 
at  one  time,  to  run  away  together.  Finally  they 
quieted  down,  and  after  luncheon  —  eaten  in  a 
sunny  corner  outside  the  Chinese  inn,  and  beside 
a  large  onion  field  —  our  mules  jogged  along 
slowly,  until  a  small  stream  with  steep  banks 
had  to  be  forded ;  and  then,  to  my  horror,  I  saw 
Lady  Emily,  who  was  in  front  —  the  Earl  hav- 
ing ridden  on  a  short  distance  —  plunge  out  of 
her  ladyship's  cart  directly  into  the  river.  I 
screamed  to  Mr.  Stubbs  and  felt  more  than 
thankful  to  see  her  ladyship  up  almost  immedi- 
ately. The  water  was  not  above  three  feet  deep, 
and  though  drenched,  of  course,  her  ladyship 
declared  she  was  unhurt  and  preferred  wading 
to  the  other  side  of  the  stream. 

Lady  Emily,  it  seems,  had  leaned  far  forward, 
trying  to  call  the  Countess's  attention  to  some 
strangely  marked  birds  hiding  under  bushes  and 
broad  leaves  by  the  water's  edge;  at  that  mo- 
ment the  mule  stumbled  over  a  slippery  stone 
and  her  ladyship,  bending  so  far  over,  lost  her 
balance,  falling,  fortunately,  into  a  muddy  hole. 
Everything  had  to  be  taken  off  at  once,  the 
Countess  insisting  that  Lady  Emily,  who,  by 
this  time,  was  shivering  from  the  exposure, 
should  put  on  the  warmest  wrap  to  be  found, 
which  happened  to  be  an  embroidered  kimono, 
and  drink  hot  tea.  When  all  were  ready  to 
start  again,  there  was  discussion  among  the  men 
as  to  the  right  direction,  and  we  turned  off  on 
what  seemed  more  like  a  trail  than  a  road.  The 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  157 

guide  made  the  Earl  understand,  however,  that 
it  was  a  short  cut  to  the  main  thoroughfare  for 
Peking. 

After  travelling  miles,  over  little  used  tracks 
—  the  sun  was  getting  very  low  and  no  houses 
were  in  sight  —  at  a  turn  in  the  road  ahead  of 
us,  and  perhaps  fifty  feet  above,  we  came  upon 
two  or  three  desolate  looking  buildings,  the  first 
seen  for  a  long  while. 

The  muleteers  stopped  for  instructions  and 
were  about  starting  again  when  a  woman 
stepped  from  behind  the  crumbling  wall  that 
partly  concealed  her  crouching  form.  Stretch- 
ing out  clasped  hands,  she  cried,  piteously, 
"  Stop,  stop,  for  God's  sake  help  me!  "  Though 
dressed  as  a  Chinese,  unmistakably  she  was 
English,  and  so  emaciated  walking  seemed  im- 
possible. His  lordship  dismounted  before  she 
had  finished  speaking,  calling  out  he  would  come 
to  her;  but  the  poor  creature  shaking  her  head, 
motioned  him  to  go  on  a  few  steps  where  the 
bank  completely  shut  off  all  view  of  the  road 
from  the  houses  beyond.  Painfully  she  crawled 
to  this  spot,  and  there,  seated  upon  the  ground, 
screened  somewhat  by  bushes,  told  the  Earl  and 
Countess  of  her  miserable  plight. 

From  Lady  Emily  I  later  heard  the  strange 
history,  and  it  is  this :  The  poor  lady,  —  for  she 
was  of  gentle  birth,  —  the  last  of  an  ancient 
Devon  family,  was  orphaned  before  her  nine- 
teenth year.  Her  mother  she  could  not  remem- 
ber, and  her  father  was  a  man  absorbed  in  books, 


158  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

seldom  leaving  his  own  fireside,  though  occasion- 
ally on  clear  winter  nights,  protected  from  cold 
by  great  felt  boots  and  his  shoulders  wrapped  in 
blankets,  he  spent  hours  gazing  at  the  stars, 
bending  over  big  sheets  of  paper  marking  and 
calculating.  When  he  died  it  was  found  that 
their  last  acre,  as  well  as  his  library,  —  the  sole 
possession  the  old  astrologer  really  seemed  to 
have  cared  for,  —  must  be  sold  to  satisfy  claims 
of  money  advanced  by  a  distant  kinsman,  a  well- 
to-do  merchant  living  in  Bermuda.  The  orphan 
was  thus  left  well-nigh  penniless. 

By  giving  music  lessons  in  some  of  the  county 
families;  teaching  dancing  and  painting  a  little, 
she  managed  to  earn  sufficient  to  take  her  up  to 
London  where,  after  a  struggling  year  or  so, 
one  winter  playing  small  parts  in  a  city  theatre, 
she  secured  a  position  as  nursery  governess  in 
a  Russian  family  connected  with  the  Czar's  Em- 
bassy. Small  pay  was  given,  but  always,  when 
going  about  with  her  charges,  she  was  obliged 
to  dress  extremely  well.  While  at  a  country 
house  rented  by  the  Embassy,  a  noted  Chinese 
Mandarin  came  there  to  visit,  and,  attracted  by 
her  appearance,  no  doubt,  for  she  was  strikingly 
handsome,  a  member  of  the  Mandarin's  train 
sought  her  acquaintance,  and  later  found  means 
to  frequently  meet  her  in  London.  She  was 
foolishly  willing  to  receive  his  attentions,  having 
always  longed  for  adventure  and  dreaded  plan- 
ning for  an  uncertain  future.  She  could  do 
nothing  really  well;  her  present  position  also 


TRAVELS   OF   A   LADY'S   MAID  159 

had  become  precarious;  her  Russian  employers 
disapproving  of  advances  made  by  the  China- 
man, strongly  intimated  if  she  continued  meet- 
ing him,  leaving  their  employ  would  be  neces- 
sary. Having  none  to  counsel  her,  and  knowing 
that  her  admirer  had  large  means  and  assured 
position  in  his  own  land,  she  determined  to  ac- 
cept the  propositions,  agreeing  to  meet  him  in 
Southampton,  where  they  were  married  at  a 
registrar's  office. 

The  foolish  girl  did  not  even  inform  the  old 
rector  who  had  christened  her,  knowing  he  would 
disapprove  and  probably  try  to  prevent  what 
she  was  determined  to  do.  Her  only  companion 
on  leaving  London  was  a  chorus  girl  she  had 
befriended  when  ill  in  a  public  hospital.  As 
the  Chinaman  and  his  bride  sailed  for  China 
immediately  after  the  ceremony  at  the  regis- 
trar's, few  knew  what  had  become  of  her  and 
none  truly  cared. 

For  a  time  the  Chinese  husband  showed  every 
kindly  attention,  showering  richest  gifts  upon 
her.  It  being  his  second  visit  to  England,  he 
understood  English  and  spoke  it  easily.  He  was 
also  keenly  intelligent,  evidently  appreciating 
the  help  possible  through  a  foreign  wife  in  a 
diplomatic  future,  doubtless  hoping  some  post 
might  later  be  offered  in  America,  if  not  in  Eng- 
land, he  having  met  with  flattering  attention  in 
both  countries.  Boxes  of  Bibles,  and  other 
books,  had  been  given  him  by  good  people  im- 


160  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

pressed  with  his  apparent  earnestness  and  inter- 
ested in  his  welfare. 

After  reaching  Peking,  life  for  awhile  was 
very  endurable;  but  soon  her  mother-in-law,  the 
real  ruler  of  the  home,  showed  almost  insane 
dislike  of  the  bride,  arousing,  in  every  under- 
handed way,  the  husband's  jealousy;  accusing 
her  own  son  of  being  a  devilized  Chinese;  mean- 
ing he  was  contaminated  by  associating  with 
foreigners.  Constant  bickerings  and  serious 
trouble  soon  entirely  estranged  people  so  un- 
suited  to  live  together.  The  hoped-for  diplo- 
matic post  was  not  offered;  and  in  August  of 
the  preceding  year  the  son  had  gladly  agreed 
to  his  mother's  proposal,  which  was  that  his  wife 
should  be  taken  to  a  farm  owned  by  the  older 
woman  not  distant  from  Peking,  and  here  the 
unfortunate  lady  was  confined  a  prisoner,  vis- 
ited at  intervals  by  her  husband  and  his  mother 
to  see  that  no  communication  was  held  with  for- 
eigners. Writing  materials  and  books,  even, 
were  forbidden,  and  the  place  where  she  was 
kept  was  hardly  fit  for  cattle. 

Evidently  it  was  the  scheming  mother's  inten- 
tion, if  not  also  the  son's  wish,  that  such  a  use- 
less encumbrance  should  conveniently  pass  away. 
The  captive  had  reason  to  think  her  acquaint- 
ances in  Peking  —  she  had  no  friends  —  were 
informed  she  was  enjoying  country  air,  knowing 
her  husband  had  several  large  estates  in  various 
parts  of  the  Empire,  for  the  raising  of  rice  or 
silkworms.  These  she  had  already  repeatedly 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  161 

visited  with  him,  and  her  absence  from  the  cap- 
ital being  accounted  for  in  this  way,  it  was  not 
probable  further  inquiry  would  be  made.  For 
months  she  watched,  hoping  day  and  night 
some  travellers  might  chance  to  take  the  unfre- 
quented road  near  her  place  of  detention,  where 
occasionally  she  was  allowed  to  walk,  as  it  also 
led  to  Peking,  at  such  season  as  the  streams 
were  fordable.  Her  courage  had  entirely  gone, 
and  relief  from  the  awful  situation  seemed  im- 
possible. No  one  passed  when  she  had  been  able 
to  reach  the  lane.  Escape  was  a  difficult  matter, 
as  the  old  couple  guarding  her  were  vigilant 
and  she  had  no  money  to  bribe  them.  Even  on 
seeing  the  Earl,  at  first  she  hardly  dared  call, 
having  caught  sight  of  Lady  Emily's  bright 
kimono,  and,  not  knowing,  of  course,  of  the  acci- 
dent at  the  river,  fearing  the  party  might  be 
Chinese,  and  in  that  case  stopping  them  would 
be  worse  than  useless,  and  lead  to  punishment 
and  closer  confinement. 

When  all  I  have  written  out  was  briefly  told, 
the  Countess  wished  to  immediately  take  the 
poor  creature  from  such  shameful  treatment,  but 
the  lady  herself  thought  it  far  better  that  the 
Earl  should  inform  officials  at  the  Legation  re- 
garding her  condition.  They  must  then  insist 
on  seeing  her,  having  her  brought  to  Peking 
upon  important  business,  if  no  better  way  was 
suggested.  Her  husband,  greatly  desiring,  on 
account  of  his  diplomatic  reputation,  to  avoid 
scandal,  or  to  "  lose  face,"  as  the  Chinese  say, 


162  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

she  believed  would  consent  if  the  matter  were 
quietly  and  firmly  urged.  Once  in  Peking,  un- 
der British  protection,  she  could  easily  reach  a 
steamer  at  Tien-Tsin  and  return  to  England. 
If  she  simply  disappeared  and  the  impression 
were  given  that  she  had  returned  to  England 
for  a  visit,  her  husband  was  unlikely  to  pursue. 
She  herself  shunned  publicity  and  had  no  wish 
for  revenge,  and  would  rather  die  in  an  alms- 
house  at  home  than  attempt  living  through  the 
tortures  her  own  incredible  folly  had  brought 
upon  her. 

Repeatedly  the  Countess  heard  from  this  poor 
lady,  finally  having  the  satisfaction  of  knowing 
plans  for  her  escape  had  been  successful,  and 
she  was  then  living  in  the  rectory  near  her  birth- 
place in  Devonshire.  What  remained  of  life,  she 
wrote,  must  be  given  to  work  for  tempted  girls, 
to  warn  and  protect  them  from  evils  sure  to 
come  in  following  such  sinful  paths  as  she  had 
chosen.  Lessons  came  through  bitter  experi- 
ence; if  her  sad  fate  helped  others  she  would 
be  satisfied.  The  one  bright  memory  of  China 
was  her  interest  in  the  cultivation  of  silk-worms, 
and  she  had  brought  with  her  to  England  many 
of  their  eggs  with  which  to  experiment. 


CHAPTER   XXXIII 

IT  was  indeed  late  when  the  main  route  was 
again  reached,  and  long  after  dark  before  we 
came  to  the  inn  at  Chumping  Chu,  a  more  decent 
place  than  the  last.  Merchants  from  Tartary 
or  Thibet,  strange-appearing  men,  strong  and 
heavy  in  build,  crowded  about  the  doors,  so  I 
was  obliged  to  pin  shawls  and  coverings  over  the 
curtainless  windows.  By  sunrise  the  Earl 
started  for  Peking,  the  inn-keeper,  a  well- 
spoken-of  man,  and  one  of  the  guides,  accom- 
panying his  lordship.  The  others  were  directed 
to  go  across  country  with  the  rest  of  the  party, 
to  some  point  on  the  river  to  meet  the  house- 
boats, and  where  his  lordship  would  join  them 
after  informing  the  Legation  of  the  fortunate 
encounter  with  the  lady  unlawfully  held,  and 
receiving  assurance  from  the  authorities  there 
that  all  possible  would  be  done  without  delay 
for  her  release.  By  nightfall  the  Earl  reached 
Tung-Chau,  where  the  boats  were  moored,  hav- 
ing had  satisfactory  interviews  with  the  British 
officials,  who  entirely  confirmed  the  main  facts 
of  the  remarkable  history  confided  to  his  lord- 
ship a  day  earlier.  It  was  then  decided  to  drop 

163 


164  TRAVELS   OF   A   LADY'S   MAID 

down  the  river  a  short  distance  before  taking 
a  morning  train  for  Tien-Tsin. 

The  return  trip  was  short  and  nothing  of  es- 
pecial interest  seen  except  the  fishing  always 
going  on  upon  the  Pei-ho  —  fifteen  different 
ways,  on  that  stream  alone,  for  catching  fish. 
At  some  places  the  Chinese  train  large  birds  to 
fish.  These  cormorants  wear  iron  rings  around 
their  necks,  thus  preventing  the  poor  things  from 
eating  the  dinner  they  have  caught  for  their 
masters.  Mr.  Stubbs  says  they  are  knowing 
enough,  and  keen,  too  —  something  like  strikers 
—  about  getting  their  share,  and  won't  work  if 
it  is  withheld  too  long. 

The  evening  we  arrived  at  Tien-Tsin,  Lady 
Emily  was  overjoyed  to  find  she  would  be  per- 
mitted to  accept  an  invitation  given  by  a  Ger- 
man gentleman,  to  dine  with  quite  a  large  party 
at  one  of  the  native  restaurants.  Although  the 
hour  was  late  when  her  ladyship  returned,  she 
would  not  allow  the  lights  to  be  put  out  until 
I  had  been  told  about  the  very  singular  dinner. 
Several  Chinese  were  present,  officials  of  some 
sort,  and  the  Earl  cautioned  Lady  Emily  that 
nothing  should  be  said  concerning  the  painful 
incident  of  the  day  near  Peking,  until  they  knew 
positively  that  the  captive  had  recovered  her 
liberty.  When  all  were  seated  at  table,  the  ban- 
quet began  with  bird's-nest  soup,  a  strange  jelly- 
like  dish.  Large  porcelain  spoons  were  used  for 
this.  Later,  chop-sticks  only  were  provided,  so 
eating  the  many  peculiarly  prepared  courses  was 


TRAVELS   OF  A   LADY'S   MAID   165 

by  no  means  an  easy  matter,  and  fingers  had  to 
do  constant  service,  for  the  foreigners,  at  least; 
consequently  the  towels  dipped  in  hot  water  and 
brought  to  each  guest  when  the  meal  ended, 
were  decidedly  needed.  Eggs  cooked  in  some 
extraordinary  fashion  were  served,  these  having 
been  buried  for  a  quarter  of  a  century,  to  give 
finer  flavour,  it  is  asserted. 

When  Mr.  Stubbs  tapped  on  the  door  the  fol- 
lowing morning,  desiring  to  change  a  label  on 
my  box,  he  seemed  more  hurried  than  usual,  re- 
marking he  had  been  detained  in  the  native  city 

—  a  filthy  place,  as  most  sections  must  be  when 
human  beings  are  crowded  together  like  beasts 

—  having  been  sent  there  by  the  Earl  to  get 
a  package  of  sables,  selected  by  his  lordship  at 
one  of  the  Chinese  fur  traders,  and  after  getting 
the  skins  he  could  not  resist  trying  to  find  a 
temple,  dedicated  to  "  Holy  Cash,"  Mr.  Stubbs 
had  been  told,  and  sure  enough  he  did  see  there 
an  immense  gilded  coin  suspended  over  what  he 
took  to  be  the  altar.    The  people  gathered  thick 
together   at   this   spot,    evidently   worshipping. 
Knowing  how  strongly  the  political  boss  idea  of 
"  Where  do  I  come  in,"  is  cherished  in  China 
and  how  gold  is  bowed  down  before  the  world 
over,   the   Chinese   are   more   honest   than   Mr. 
Stubbs  had  credited  them  with  being,  in  openly 
venerating  what  others  secretly  adore. 

We  left  Tien-Tsin  at  noon,  and  after  less  than 
two  days  on  the  water,  were  again  in  Shanghai, 
spending  several  hours  there  before  taking  a 


166  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

large  vessel  bound  for  Hong  Kong,  steaming 
slowly  into  that  beautiful  port  at  sunrise,  a 
few  days  later.  In  the  harbour  craft  of  all  sorts 
were  anchored,  and  boats  hurrying  hither  and 
thither  made  constantly  changing  sights  and  en- 
tertaining scenes.  The  Countess  and  Lady 
Emily  ordered  jinrickshaws  soon  after  landing 
and  rode  to  a  charming  place  known  as  "  the 
Happy  Valley." 

After  lunching  with  the  Governor  at  Hong 
Kong,  their  ladyships,  accompanied  by  His  Ex- 
cellency, made  an  excursion  to  "  the  Peak  "  far 
above  the  town,  where  the  ocean  breezes  are  de- 
lightfully cool.  The  sunset  from  those  heights 
Lady  Emily  thought  one  of  the  loveliest  she  had 
ever  seen. 

The  third  day  we  left  Hong  Kong  by  a  river 
boat,  for  Canton,  stopping  over  night  at  Macon, 
a  "  fascinating,  picturesque  place,"  I  heard 
Lady  Emily  call  it,  belonging  to  Portugal,  and 
the  following  evening  arrived  at  Canton,  one  of 
the  largest  cities  in  China.  Here  the  Earl 
stopped  with  English  friends  living  in  a  com- 
modious and  most  comfortable  house,  on  the 
Concession,  —  the  foreign  settlement  that  is, 
just  outside  the  city  gate.  Even  in  this  gentle- 
man's residence  arms  were  conveniently  stacked 
near  the  dining-room  door,  as  uprisings  against 
foreigners  might  come  at  any  time  and  every 
one  must  be  prepared.  Not  long  before  dark  I 
was  startled  by  a  loud,  confused  roaring  noise; 
trumpets,  horns  and  drums  violently  beaten. 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  167 

It  did  seem  as  though  the  Boxers  must  be 
upon  us;  but  soon  I  was  told  this  tremendous 
commotion  is  made  every  night  warning  all  in- 
side the  city  walls  that  the  gates  were  to  be 
locked,  and  after  that  hour  none  are  allowed 
to  leave  or  enter  before  daybreak. 

On  passing  through  the  city's  thronged  thor- 
oughfares all  were  carried  in  chairs,  and  the 
coolies  had  often  to  take  off  their  wide-brimmed 
straw  hats  in  order  to  pass  one  another  in  those 
narrow,  ill-smelling  streets;  fortunately,  how- 
ever, incense  was  burned  in  front  of  many  shops. 
The  shopkeepers  being  the  only  Chinese  who 
appeared  friendly  in  manner  toward  foreigners, 
I  could  better  understand  why  a  small  arsenal 
of  arms  are  kept  on  the  river  boats,  for  fear  of 
pirates,  and  in  all  compounds  where  strangers 
are  permitted  to  reside. 

It  was  a  painful  sight  to  see  long  strings  of 
the  poor  Chinese  blind,  holding  on  to  a  leader 
who  probably  knew  the  way,  or  could,  perhaps, 
see  dimly,  as  they  went  from  house  to  house 
begging  food.  We  heard  horrible  tales  of  a 
place  of  execution,  plainly  seen  from  the  city 
walls;  and  Mr.  Stubbs,  even,  did  not  venture 
nearer,  though  feeling  it  almost  a  duty  to  see 
all  he  can. 

In  the  market  places  small  dogs  were  hung 
up  over  the  butchers'  stalls,  as  one  sees  game 
at  home,  and  other  tiny,  dark,  dangling  crea- 
tures both  Mr.  Stubbs  and  I  made  sure  were 
rats  and  kittens.  Lobsters  are  sea  scavengers, 


168  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

he  says,  and  we  eat  them.  Everybody  knows 
a  Frenchman's  fondness  for  frogs  and  snails. 
Why  should  not  the  Chinese  eat  cats  and  rats? 
Look  at  the  righteous  indignation  and  ex- 
claiming over  Chinese  women  binding  and 
pinching  in  their  feet;  then  consider  what  the 
tight  lacing  —  never  intended  by  the  Creator 
-  means,  of  those  fashionables  who  used  to  be 
called  the  "  Smart  Set."  Their  days,  and 
nights,  too,  simply  given  to  dissipations,  gam- 
bling, under  a  polite  name,  and  drinking,  covet- 
ing of  your  neighbour's  wife,  and  far  worse, 
goes  on  almost  unrebuked  in  gay  society;  con- 
sidering and  removing  our  own  beams  very  often 
makes  clearer  the  size  of  our  brother's  motes, 
Mr.  Stubbs  firmly  believes. 

In  one  of  the  temples  not  far  from  the  market, 
placed  among  a  long  line  of  gods,  the  Earl 
pointed  out  to  Lady  Emily  a  statue  said  to  be 
that  of  Marco  Polo,  the  renowned  traveller,  for 
whom  her  ladyship's  horses  were  named.  This 
voyager  came  to  China  hundreds  of  years  ago 
to  visit  a  ruler  called  the  Great  Khan,  and  made 
so  excellent  an  impression  that  after  that  king's 
death  an  effigy  of  himself,  given  the  Khan,  was 
preserved  among  the  Buddha  in  the  Canton 
temple. 


CHAPTER   XXXIV 

ON  returning  to  Hong  Kong  the  Earl,  find- 
ing a  French  vessel  in  port,  decided  to  take 
passage  in  it  for  the  island  of  Ceylon,  going  by 
way  of  Saigon,  where  there  is  a  French  colony, 
and  stopping  at  Singapore.  On  leaving  the  sea 
coast  we  followed  for  several  miles  a  broad 
stream,  before  reaching  the  landing  at  Saigon. 
Many  palm-thatched  huts  were  seen  along  the 
banks  of  this  river  or  inlet,  and  the  natives, 
though  poor,  had  a  contented,  cheerful  look. 
Saigon  seemed  a  well  laid  out,  prosperous  place, 
with  clean  streets,  a  park,  several  places  of 
amusement  and  good  shops.  Mr.  Stubbs  spent 
hours  ashore,  exploring,  and  says  though  the 
eating  is  exceedingly  good,  and  all  have  what 
they  call  plaisirs,  the  French  never  did  under- 
stand or  take  to  colonizing,  as  our  people  do. 

Early  one  morning  Mr.  Stubbs  called  me  on 
deck  to  see  the  promenading  that  goes  on 
before  breakfast.  A  printed  notice  in  the  cabins 
gives  passengers  permission  to  walk  the  decks 
until  eight  o'clock,  in  pantouffles,  meaning  slip- 
pers and  robe  de  chambre.  It  was  very  amusing 
watching  the  couples,  quite  filling  the  forward 
deck,  old  and  young  tramping  up  and  down 

169 


170  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

exercising;  many  with  bared  feet,  like  those 
taking  the  cure  at  that  good  priest's  place  in 
Germany,  remarked  Mr.  Stubbs,  and  all  wear- 
ing the  strangest  odds  and  ends,  you  may  say, 
of  raiment;  pajamas,  kimonos,  cloaks,  ulsters 
and  bedroom  gowns,  like  in  a  masquerade  at  the 
theatre,  though  those  taking  part  seemed  very 
serious. 

Six  days  out  from  Hong  Kong,  a  stop  of 
several  hours  was  made  at  Singapore.  His  lord- 
ship regretted  not  going  to  Java  from  here,  but 
feared  the  heat  and  rainy  season  might  mean 
illness,  or  detention  inland,  if  some  ancient  ruins 
very  interesting  to  see,  were  visited.  Great  bas- 
kets of  splendid  fruits  were  brought  on  board; 
mangosteens,  and  other  varieties  even  more  de- 
licious than  the  mangoes  and  pines  you  get  for 
almost  nothing  in  Hawaii.  Having,  by  mistake, 
tasted  a  ripe  cactus  pear  in  California  Lady 
Emily  declares  never  again  will  she  be  tempted 
by  any  variety  of  unknown  fruits  and  believes 
that  prickly  pear  must  represent  the  forbidden 
fruit  of  olden  times. 

Being  sleepless  in  the  stifling  cabin  one  hot 
night  after  leaving  Singapore,  I  went  on  deck 
at  dawn.  The  ship  was  then  close  to  a  rocky 
coast,  called  Sumatra;  plainly,  I  could  see  trees 
near  the  shore,  and  distant  mountains.  Coffee 
and  spices  of  all  sorts  thrive  on  these  tropical 
islands,  owned  by  the  Dutch,  —  a  good-natured 
merchant  from  Rotterdam,  lying  on  a  long  chair 
where  he  had  slept  the  night,  outside  the  smoke- 


room  door,  told  me.  Later  Mr.  Stubbs  ex- 
plained a  chart,  upon  which  the  places  we  passed 
are  all  marked. 

After  crossing  the  Straits  of  Malacca,  and 
into  the  Bay  of  Bengal,  we  entered  the  Indian 
Ocean  and  came  to  the  palm-shaded  coast  of 
beautiful  Ceylon,  at  Colombo.  A  long  break- 
water, stretching  out  beyond  the  harbour,  pro- 
tects the  entrance.  There  was  a  good  deal  of 
delay  about  landing,  as  a  yellow  flag  floated 
from  our  ship's  mast;  this  meant,  —  what  even 
Mr.  Stubbs  had  not  suspected,  —  a  case  of 
smallpox  in  the  steerage!  but  before  long,  every- 
thing was  arranged,  and  I  was  busy  unpacking 
in  a  large,  airy  hotel  overlooking  the  sea. 

The  Earl  and  Countess  spent  that  first  night 
ashore  at  the  Governor's.  The  following  noon 
Lady  Emily  sent  for  a  double  'rickshaw,  and 
with  her  ladyship  I  went  to  a  museum  in  the 
public  gardens,  a  mile  or  so  from  town.  Com- 
ing back,  the  roads  were  nearly  deserted,  the 
heat  being  intense,  and  Lady  Emily  seemed  dis- 
turbed to  have  the  coolies  go  beyond  a  walk  in 
drawing  the  small  carriage.  As  we  went  slowly 
along,  the  top  having  been  put  up  as  a  protec- 
tion against  the  sun,  we  heard  behind  us  sounds 
of  blows,  as  though  an  ill-natured  cabby  were 
beating  his  horse.  Another  jinrickshaw  quickly 
passed,  and  the  man  seated  inside  violently 
struck,  with  a  bamboo  stick,  the  bare  back  of 
his  sweating  coolie,  who  evidently  failed  to  go 
sufficiently  fast  to  please  his  fare.  Lady  Emily 


172  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

was  most  indignant  at  seeing  a  human  being  so 
wrongly  treated,  and  feared  the  man  riding  in 
the  jinrickshaw  might  be  a  soldier.  He  cer- 
tainly wore  khaki  and  a  helmet,  though  the 
'rickshaw  passed  at  such  a  sharp  pace  she  could 
not  be  sure. 

The  hotel  at  Colombo  seemed  extremely  com- 
fortable after  Chinese  inns  and  the  ship's  cabins. 
The  nights  were  cool,  and  in  the  dining-room 
punkahs  kept  up  a  pleasant  breeze,  though  I 
could  not  but  think  those  slim  Hindu  lads  pull- 
ing the  ropes  must  get  very  weary.  Venders  of 
jewels,  silver  and  all  sorts  of  carved  curiosities 
and  trinkets,  swarmed  about  the  hotel  entrances, 
crowded  the  verandas  and  did  a  thriving  busi- 
ness. Some  of  the  men,  the  Cingalese,  who  work 
indoors,  wearing  their  long  hair  in  a  knot  behind, 
use  combs  like  those  worn  by  little  girls  in  Eng- 
land. These  are  placed  around  the  back  of  the 
head  instead  of  over  the  crown. 

One  sees  many  sorts  of  natives  in  India.  Mr. 
Stubbs  takes  "  no  stock  in  them,  has  no  use  for 
such,"  as  the  Americans  say.  They  are  not  a 
mirthful  race  like  the  Japanese;  have  not 
.enough  "  go "  to  suit  him.  He  thinks  they 
might  be  better  for  more  good  beef  and  the 
like;  however,  since  travelling  and  seeing  so 
much,  many  of  his  ideas  regarding  eating  are 
somewhat  changed.  He  observes  the  heavy 
loads  these  lean  coolies  lift  easily.  Few  of  our 
stout  men  in  the  old  country  appear  to  have 
the  endurance  that  these  get  out  of  rice,  and  a 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  173 

bit  of  fish  now  and  again.  No  doubt  heathen 
are  capable  of  becoming  loyal  subjects;  but  the 
whining  way  of  speaking  some  of  those  "  good 
Lord,  good  devil "  sort  of  persons,  he  would  call 
them,  who  know  a  little  English,  affect,  he  mis- 
trusts, doubting  too,  those  real  gems  they  are 
for  ever  offering,  but  finds  it  vastly  entertain- 
ing, watching  the  ways  of  such  oddly  dressed 
beings.  Shawls  worn  by  many,  are  wrapped 
closely  around  their  owners  in  the  cool  of  early 
morning,  or  the  damp  night  hours;  but  most 
show  plenty  of  bare,  finely  bronzed  skin  in  place 
of  other  covering. 

Lady  Emily's  room  overlooked  nice  gardens, 
and  on  the  terrace  chota  hazri,  or  little  breakfast, 
as  the  first  meal  is  called,  was  always  eaten, 
shared  with  the  kites  who  helped  themselves 
very  liberally  if  one's  tray  happened  to  be  left 
a  moment  unguarded.  More  than  once,  as  I 
had  been  instructed  to  do  if  anything  was 
wanted,  I  had  to  clap  my  hands,  there  being  no 
bells,  for  a  fresh  supply  of  toast,  the  birds  hav- 
ing made  way  with  two  of  the  three  small  pieces 
provided.  Lall,  the  Hindu  servant  sent  from 
Calcutta  to  attend  his  lordship,  slept  on  the  floor 
just  outside  the  apartment  and  seemed  to  un- 
derstand without  spoken  words  what  was  needed. 
Lady  Emily  liked  watching  a  pair  of  tiny  liz- 
ards, hiding  by  day  behind  a  shelf  in  her  lady- 
ship's room  and  only  appearing  before  get- 
ting-up  time  in  the  morning.  She  would  not  allow 
them  to  be  caught,  saying  they  were  quite  harm- 


174  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

less,  and  probably  kept  the  room  free  from  flies, 
or  other  insects.  The  small  creatures  darted 
here  and  there,  pouncing  upon  whatever  they 
considered  fit  to  eat,  in  a  very  stealthy  manner, 
as  soon  as  it  became  light  enough  to  see  any- 
thing. 


CHAPTER   XXXV 

SEVERAL  excursions  were  made  while  waiting 
at  Colombo  for  the  Royal  Mail  packet  for  Cal- 
cutta, —  one  to  Kandy,  a  railway  trip  of  three 
or  four  hours  in  wonderful  scenery,  winding 
about  mountains  and  through  forests  where 
groves  of  cocoanut  trees  furnish  the  natives  with 
food,  shelter  and  clothing.  In  a  sacred  temple 
at  Kandy  a  relic  of  Buddha  is  kept.  This  treas- 
ure, the  Saint's  tooth,  is  guarded  by  priests  and 
only  shown  under  special  conditions.  Mr. 
Stubbs  managed  to  get  a  sight  of  it  when  the 
Earl  went  to  the  temple.  It  was  lying  in  a 
golden  lotus,  and  a  tooth  of  such  length,  he 
thought,  had  never  been  seen,  even  a  thousand 
years  ago,  in  any  human  jaw.  The  priests 
placed  garlands  around  the  visitors'  necks,  made 
of  strong  smelling  blossoms  called  "  Frangi- 
panni."  Mr.  Stubbs  much  disliked  walking 
about  a  heathen  temple  wreathed  in  this  man- 
ner, and  once  outside  again,  gladly  threw  this 
adornment  away,  before  going  to  some  beauti- 
ful botanical  gardens,  the  finest  in  the  world, 
it  is  said. 

One  night  was  spent  at  a  charming  place 
among  the  hills,  where  the  views  of  Adam's  Peak 

176 


176  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

were  wonderfully  fine.  Many  believe  Adam 
really  travelled  as  far  as  this  grand  mountain, 
and  in  some  mysterious  way  left  his  foot-print 
upon  the  summit.  Chains,  fastened  upon  one 
side  of  the  steep  rocks,  permit  devout  pilgrims 
to  ascend  the  precipice  in  safety.  Near  the  vil- 
lage where  pilgrims  begin  the  ascent  I  saw  most 
beautiful  convolvulus  growing  very  large,  and 
such  exquisite  shades  of  blue  I  have  never  before 
seen.  We  passed  miles  of  tea  plantations,  all 
in  fine  condition. 

At  Nuwera  Eliya  it  was  cold  enough  to  make 
fires  very  agreeable  in  the  evening,  and  the 
Countess  found  the  change  of  air  delightfully 
bracing.  From  Nuwera  Eliya  a  fine  driveway 
led  to  Baddulla,  and  at  a  small  station  not  dis- 
tant from  this  place,  the  train  was  taken  for 
Colombo. 

On  reaching  the  harbour,  and  hearing  that, 
meeting  with  heavy  seas,  the  British  mail 
steamer  had  been  disabled,  rather  than  wait 
longer,  the  Earl  decided  to  take  a  French  vessel 
that  would  touch  at  Madras  on  the  way  to  Cal- 
cutta. This  steamer  was  small  and  crowded, 
but  fortunately,  with  the  exception  of  one  day 
off  the  coast  of  Pondicherry,  a  French  settle- 
ment, we  had  no  rough  weather.  I  did  not  go 
ashore  at  Madras;  but  with  his  lordship  Lady 
Emily  spent  the  night  at  a  rectory  near  the 
city.  Though  the  clergyman  had  been  called 
away  by  the  illness  of  a  parishioner,  his  wife  and 
daughter  were  most  kind,  showing  many  inter- 


TRAVELS   OF  A   LADY'S   MAID  177 

esting  sights  about  the  modern  town,  as  there 
was  not  time  to  drive  to  the  temples  built  near 
where  one  of  the  apostles,  it  is  believed,  suffered 
martyrdom.  The  house  was  large  and  attract- 
ive; huge  bats,  however,  flying  in  and  out  be- 
tween the  court  and  open  verandas,  after  lamps 
were  lighted,  rather  alarmed  her  ladyship,  as 
they  swooped  down  in  such  a  sudden,  fearless 
manner ;  and  the  punkahs  squeaked  so  noisily, 
it  was  difficult  to  sleep  at  all,  towards  morning. 

On  reaching  the  mouth  of  the  great  river 
Ganges,  leading  from  the  sea  to  Calcutta,  an 
English  pilot  came  aboard,  as  constantly  shift- 
ing sands  make  the  passage  a  very  dangerous 
one.  Some  said  this  young  pilot  —  the  son  of 
an  admiral  —  had  never  before  been  in  com- 
mand, and  Mr.  Stubbs  thought,  —  though  all 
appeared  regular  enough,  as  the  pilot  seemed 
uncommonly  youthful,  and  the  river  having  so 
bad  a  reputation  in  the  way  of  crocodiles,  — 
keeping  near  life  boats  was  safest.  On  one  trip 
he  has  been  told,  when  the  passengers  were 
quietly  seated  at  luncheon,  the  vessel  turned 
turtle,  and  in  capsizing  many  were  drowned 
before  they  could  get  from  their  places.  For 
himself,  he  prefers  not  running  unnecessary 
risks  of  being  swallowed  alive.  Nothing  could 
induce  him  to  leave  his  post  on  the  forward  deck, 
consequently  he  missed  dinner,  having  a  raging 
headache  instead,  when  finally  we  came  to  the 
docks  at  Calcutta. 

A  drive  along  the  river  front  delighted  Mr. 


178  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

Stubbs  and  me  when,  at  twilight,  we  followed 
the  Earl,  the  Countess  and  Lady  Emily,  who 
were  in  a  carriage  sent  by  the  Viceroy,  as  Sun- 
day was  to  be  spent  at  Government  House.  A 
band  played  in  the  fine  public  gardens,  and 
throngs  gathered  there;  horsemen  and  vehicles 
of  every  sort  filled  with  smartly  dressed  people 
dashing  up  and  down,  or  turning  into  a  broad, 
park-like  street  called  the  Maidan.  The  setting 
sun  threw  a  reddish  glow  over  the  river,  hun- 
dreds of  masts  standing  plainly  out  like  leafless 
trees  along  its  banks.  On  the  lawn  in  front  of 
the  vice  regal  palace,  called  Government  House, 
were  many  tents.  This  young  gentleman  from 
the  Viceroy's  staff,  who  met  the  Earl  at  the 
landing-stage,  said  the  house  was  full  to  over- 
flowing with  Christmas  guests,  so  some  lodged 
under  canvas.  With  ladies  in  muslin  frocks, 
and  flowers  blossoming  everywhere,  it  seemed 
impossible  that  it  could  already  be  December 
and  Christmas  week.  Inside  the  huge  palace- 
like  building  servants  of  every  description,  na- 
tives in  white  or  red  liveries,  wearing  big,  white 
turbans,  French  maids  and  English  valets,  were 
hurrying  through  the  wide  corridors,  and  there 
was  general  bustle  and  those  unmistakable  signs 
of  festivity  that  one  always  sees  at  home  at  this 
season. 

The  Countess  had  tea  at  once,  in  her  own 
beautifully  large  rooms,  dressing  for  dinner  by 
eight,  as  a  concert,  or  some  such  entertainment, 
was  to  be  given  that  evening. 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  179 

Finding  several  young  ladies  near  her  own 
age  in  the  house  party  was  extremely  fortunate, 
Lady  Emily  thought;  and  many  officers  being 
in  attendance  on  the  Viceroy  during  the  holi- 
days, the  young  ladies  and  gentleman  have  most 
delightful  times  together.  After  early  service 
at  the  Cathedral  the  following  morning,  a  num- 
ber of  the  guests  drove,  later  in  the  day,  to 
beautiful  gardens  where  there  are  famous  ban- 
yan trees  of  immense  size.  The  branches  taking 
root  in  the  ground,  make,  from  one  tree,  a 
charming  grove  shading  the  earth  for  hundreds 
of  feet. 


CHAPTER   XXXVI 

DURING  Christmas  week  Calcutta,  of  course, 
is  crowded.  So  much  is  then  going  on,  travel- 
lers from  all  parts  of  the  world  flock  there,  and 
Europeans  living  in  India  are  constantly  arri- 
ving. Finding  the  gaieties  rather  too  fatiguing 
for  the  Countess,  the  Earl  determined  to  rent 
an  apartment  for  a  fortnight  in  a  quieter  part 
of  the  town,  close  to  the  residence  of  the  Lord 
Bishop  of  Calcutta.  This  house,  surrounded  by 
very  attractive  gardens,  is  not  far  from  the 
Maidan,  and  belongs  to  her  ladyship's  cousin, 
a  general  in  the  Indian  service,  who,  having  been 
called  back  unexpectedly  to  England,  in  order 
to  make  official  report  respecting  frontier  forti- 
fications, left  the  house  in  charge  of  his  daugh- 
ter-in-law, who,  being  rather  delicate,  lives  a 
few  miles  out  of  the  city,  but  was  then  visiting 
at  Government  House. 

Lady  Geraldine  had  servants  ready  and  every- 
thing in  order  without  delay,  so  the  Countess 
was  pleased  to  take  possession  of  the  quiet,  cool 
apartment  early  in  the  week,  spending  Christ- 
mas there.  Lady  Emily  decidedly  preferred 
the  gaieties  at  Government  House,  I  fancy,  and 

180 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  181 

her  ladyship  was  in  the  apartment  for  little  more 
than  sleeping  and  dressing. 

Each  day  began  with  an  hour  or  more  on 
horseback;  then  picnics  usually  followed,  or 
some  expedition  on  the  Hugli  —  that  branch 
of  the  Ganges  flowing  by  Calcutta.  Garden 
parties  and  visits  to  ruins,  or  to  Indian  princesses 
came  later,  before  dining  at  Government  House, 
or  going  there  during  the  evening  for  other 
festivities.  One  night,  something  like  a  presen- 
tation at  Court  was  held;  that  is,  the  Viceroy 
and  Vicereine  represented  their  Majesties  in  re- 
ceiving the  guests,  and  notables  of  Calcutta. 
Lady  Emily  did  look  most  lovely  that  evening. 
It  was  her  ladyship's  seventeenth  birthday;  she 
wore  the  simplest  of  white  lace  gowns,  and 
around  her  throat  one  string  of  the  Countess's 
pearls.  For  generations  this  necklace  had  been 
handed  down  from  mother  to  daughter,  to  be 
worn  on  that  birthday  anniversary,  and  again 
on  the  wedding  day.  Lady  Geraldine  sent  her 
own  maid,  a  skilled  Viennese,  to  dress  her  lady- 
ship's hair  in  some  new  way  that  she  pronounced 
"  classic,"  and  admirably  suited  to  Lady  Emily. 

I  must  confess  to  hardly  recognizing  my 
young  lady  as  she  came  down  the  stairway  to 
the  hall  where  I  waited  to  fasten  her  wrap;  its 
soft  satin  linings  matching  the  tea-rose  tints  in 
her  ladyship's  cheeks,  and  the  changed  hair- 
dressing  giving  such  a  grand,  grown-up  appear- 
ance. 

Lady  Emily  described  the  scene  in  the  bril- 


182  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

liantly  lighted  throne  room,  as  the  most  splendid 
she  has  yet  seen.  The  presentations  were  made 
singly,  and  quite  in  the  court  manner;  every- 
body agreeing  that  the  Vicereine  was  the  loveli- 
est of  all  the  beautiful  ladies,  her  gown  just 
perfection.  Later  in  the  evening,  the  younger 
gentlemen  and  ladies  danced  until  daybreak. 
Lady  Emily's  eyes  were  still  shining  with  hap- 
piness, —  for  she  stopped  the  night  at  Govern- 
ment House  —  when  I  went  to  her  ladyship's 
bedside  at  the  usual  hour  to  say  the  bath  was 
ready  in  her  dressing-room. 

Nothing  about  Calcutta  would  persuade  one 
that  December  had  come  and  that  it  was  really 
Christmas,  the  air  being  more  like  midsummer. 
Even  after  hearing  the  service  for  the  day  read 
in  the  English  Cathedral  —  my  seat  in  the 
crowded  church  was  near  that  marble  monument 
in  memory  of  a  much  loved  lady,  the  wife  of 
the  first  Viceroy,  who,  many  years  ago,  died  in 
Calcutta  —  I  had  a  feeling  the  clergy  might  be 
making  some  mistake,  and  anthems,  as  well  as 
gifts,  be  coming  at  the  wrong  season. 

Mr.  Stubbs  did  manage  —  he  has  not  told 
me  how  —  to  get  a  bit  of  home  holly  and  mistle- 
toe :  —  fastening  it  to  my  door  knob  before  I 
was  up,  and  with  the  Christmas  greens  was  a 
beautifully  carved  white  elephant  he  had  bought 
in  Ceylon;  also,  one  of  those  small  images,  in 
silver;  a  bird,  unlike  any  seen  on  earth  or  in 
air  Lady  Emily  says,  so  perhaps  pagans  must 
not  be  greatly  blamed  for  bowing  before  such 


fantastic  shapes.  The  neatest  note-book  bound 
in  red  leather,  "  Diary  "  printed  upon  the  cover 
in  gold  letters,  was  left  at  my  door  also,  most 
unexpected  from  Mr.  Stubbs,  and  so  thoughtful, 
for  he  says  I  am  always  writing.  Setting  down 
what  you  see  and  think  is  something  like  a  dis- 
ease, he  believes;  you  have  symptoms  in  youth, 
wanting  to  put  down  everything  you  hear,  or 
read,  that  pleases  you,  and  on  getting  older  it 
breaks  out  again  into  a  regular  habit.  From 
Lady  Emily  I  had  a  brooch  and  lovely  sleeve 
links  mounted  in  gold.  The  Countess  gave  me 
a  roll  of  Tussore  silk  for  a  gown;  a  beautiful 
watch  set  in  gun  metal,  and  a  sunshade  which 
I  greatly  needed. 

Though  indeed  happy  in  being  so  kindly  re- 
membered, receiving  much  more  kindness  than 
I  deserve,  I  could  not  forget  the  twins,  and  all 
those  I  love  so  far  away  in  England.  Somehow 
tears  kept  coming  when  I  was  by  myself,  spend- 
ing that  afternoon  writing  letters  to  Mary,  and 
others  at  home. 

Sun,  and  moonlight  also,  work  mischief  in 
India,  it  is  believed,  and  Lady  Emily  never 
rides,  or  plays  tennis  even,  without  her  white 
helmet,  a  puggaree  twisted  around  the  crown. 

On  the  morning  of  New  Year's  Day  a  grand 
review  was  held,  with  trooping  of  the  colours, 
before  the  Viceroy.  The  Earl  rode  with  the 
Viceroy's  staff  to  this  parade  and  long  before 
eight  a  victoria  came  from  Government  House 
stables  for  the  Countess  and  Lady  Emily.  The 


184  TRAVELS   OF  A   LADY'S   MAID 

Countess  wore  a  charming  gown,  surely  a 
French  creation,  Lady  Geraldine,  who  is  always 
very  smartly  gowned,  called  it,  embroidered  with 
bluets.  As  usual,  Lady  Emily  was  in  white, 
wearing  that  morning  a  violet  chiffon  hat,  the 
shade  of  her  parasol. 

Mr.  Stubbs  and  I  found  our  way  to  the  re- 
viewing ground,  not  unlike  Laffan's  plain  at 
Aldershot,  half  an  hour  before  the  manoeuvres 
began.  A  grander  sight  I  never  have  seen. 
Most  inspiring  music  was  played  by  military 
bands  when  the  Viceroy  appeared  upon  the 
Maidan;  then  troop  after  troop  of  British  and 
native  soldiers  passed,  all  marching  most  credit- 
ably, Mr.  Stubbs  thought;  the  gay  colours  har- 
monizing with  the  lovely  costumes,  and  bright 
chuddahs  worn  by  thousands  of  natives  gathered 
in  the  brilliant  morning  sunlight  to  watch  the 
procession.  We  heard  wonderful  firing  of 
musketry,  which  sounded  like  Venetian  shutters 
being  suddenly  let  down,  or  hurriedly  drawn  up. 
This  volleying  is  called  by  a  French  name, 
meaning  "  fire  of  joy,"  Mr.  Stubbs  learned.  He 
wonders  whether  many  natives  are  really  joyful 
over  foreign  rule.  Colonels  of  native  regiments 
declare,  however,  they  trust  their  own  com- 
mands, as  loyal  subjects. 

Few  realize  how  hard-worked  the  Viceroy  is. 
From  his  lordship's  man,  Mr.  Stubbs  has  it  that 
his  lordship  is  up  at  all  hours,  both  day  and 
night,  attending  to  dispatches,  filling  out  re- 
ports, responding  to  appeals,  laying  corner 


TRAVELS   OF  A   LADY'S   MAID   185 

stones  here  and  there,  ferreting  out  conspiracies, 
pacifying  rival  native  princes  —  most  jealous 
and  often  incompetent  mortals,  entertaining 
strangers,  visiting  hospitals  and  the  like;  besides 
an  immense  deal  of  office  work,  due  often  to 
members  of  Parliament,  hurrying  through  India 
for  a  few  weeks'  hunting,  or  sight-seeing. 
When  they  reach  home  they  write  articles  for 
the  Times,  or  spring  out  in  Parliament  com- 
mittees abuses  they  suspect  exist,  or  have  been 
told  of  perhaps  by  dissatisfied  natives  or  ig- 
norant globe-trotters  "  doing  India  "  in  a  fort- 
night. 

Mr.  Varley  the  Viceroy's  valet,  speaking  for 
himself,  says  there  is  not  a  lazy  bone  in  his  body; 
but  how  it  is  possible  for  the  Viceroy  to  keep  up 
the  pace  he  does,  with  all  the  meddling,  harry- 
ing annoyance  that  goes  on,  is  past  belief.  Those 
who  think  posts  about  the  vice-regal  court  mean 
living  a  life  of  luxury,  with  lots  of  idle  time  to 
pass  on  your  hands,  are  vastly  mistaken. 

Even  at  Simla,  where  a  little  tranquillity 
might  be  expected,  duties  are  much  the  same; 
the  really  needed  morning  rides  about  Jakko, 
where  the  monkeys  live,  he  knows  are  often 
shortened  on  account  of  official  business  contin- 
ually coming  up  to  those  heights,  and  requiring 
the  Viceroy's  attention.  Mr.  Stubbs  considers 
Varley  right  in  his  opinion,  and  from  what  he 
has  himself  seen  of  the  prodding  demands  and 
clamouring  duties,  a  tropical  climate  at  that 
getting  on  your  nerves,  he  is  reminded  of  lines 


he  was  given  to  write  in  his  copy-book,  when 
a  lad  at  school,  — 

"  He  who  would  all  men  appease 

And  not  himself  offend, 
He  must  begin  his  work  at  dawn, 

Though  none  know  when  'twill  end." 


CHAPTER   XXXVII 

LEAVING  Calcutta  a  few  days  later,  by  after- 
noon train,  we  travelled  all  night  before  cross- 
ing the  Ganges  in  the  early  morning,  and  reach- 
ing the  foot-hills  below  Darjeeling.  Then  up 
and  up,  by  a  narrow  railway,  making  many  odd 
twists  and  turns  in  passing  through  forests  and 
tea  plantations,  we  at  last  came  to  a  station 
nearly  six  thousand  feet  above  the  sea;  there 
the  light  fogs,  hanging  low  on  the  hillsides, 
broke  away,  and  far  above,  piercing  the  highest 
clouds,  towered  the  most  glorious  peaks,  — 
mountains  of  another  world  they  seemed  in  the 
sunset  light,  showing  great  crags  of  pink  gran- 
ite where  the  winds  have  swept  bare  places  be- 
low these  everlasting  snows  of  the  summit. 

That  first  glimpse  of  Kinchin junga  silenced 
all  speech,  though  soon  Mr.  Stubbs  whispered 
to  me  that  we  were  then  a  mile  above  the  ocean 
and  the  Himalayas  went  beyond  his  expecta- 
tions. He  was  quite  prepared  to  believe  those 
highest  points  really  are  thirty  thousand  feet 
above  the  sea.  An  hour  later  we  were  com- 
fortably settled  at  the  pleasant  hotel,  where  open 
fires  are  a  great  attraction.  Homesick  people 

187 


188  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

from  the  plains  go  to  Darjeeling,  simply  to  sit 
beside  hearth  fires,  they  say. 

I  could  never  tire  of  gazing  upon  those  won- 
drous, untroubled  heights,  and,  fortunately, 
moonlight  nights  came  at  Darjeeling.  Spent 
though  I  was  from  the  night's  travel,  I  sat  for 
hours  by  my  window,  watching  the  changing 
shadows.  Strange  green  shades  rested  upon  the 
snows,  giving  the  mountains  weird  shapes,  and 
with  the  stillness  came  a  feeling  of  repose  not 
realized  by  day.  Before  dawn  mists  again  shut 
out  all  view;  consequently,  the  expedition  to  see 
Mt.  Everest,  the  highest  peak  yet  discovered  - 
not  visible  from  Darjeeling  —  had  to  be  post- 
poned. 

Save  for  a  short  trip  in  dandies,  or  doolies 
as  some  call  them,  the  Countess  and  Lady  Emily 
remained  in-doors  that  stormy  day,  sketching 
and  writing.  Mr.  Stubbs  heard  the  landlord 
telling  of  an  amusing  mistake,  that  occurred 
years  ago,  when  Indian  matters  were  less  well 
understood  than  now.  After  an  unexpected  as- 
sault, in  subduing  border  tribes,  despatches,  it 
seems,  were  sent  to  England,  saying  "  Fortu- 
nately doolies  were  at  hand  and  soon  carried 
off  the  wounded."  This  telegram,  getting 
mixed  in  some  way,  was  printed,  "  Ferocious 
doolies  came  down  from  the  hills,  carrying  off 
the  wounded."  Extreme  consternation  was 
caused  in  London  by  this  message  until  explana- 
tion of  the  error  was  made,  and  anxious  rela- 
tives assured  that  something  like  Red  Cross 


emergency  stretchers  were  referred  to,  not  fierce 
natives,  as  English  readers  of  the  war  news  at 
first  supposed. 

The  second  morning  at  Darjeeling,  all  were 
aroused  before  daybreak.  The  Earl,  with  Lady 
Emily,  rode  to  meet  a  party  from  the  garrison 
near,  joining  them  at  a  point  where  Mt.  Everest 
can  usually  be  seen  in  fine  weather.  Later,  the 
Countess  started  in  a  dandy  carried  on  the  shoul- 
ders of  four  bearers.  I  followed.  An  enchant- 
ing vision  it  indeed  was,  when  the  sun  burst 
from  behind  rosy  clouds,  lightly  covering  those 
far  away,  snowy  heights.  '  Wings  of  the  morn- 
ing," her  ladyship  called  these  fleecy  streamers 
floating  above  fortress-like  deep  pink  rocks,  near 
the  summit  of  one  of  Kinchin junga's  five  glori- 
ous peaks.  Soon  the  rays  gained  strength,  the 
lower,  heavier  vapours  vanished,  and  the  western 
mountain  slopes  glowed  with  sunlight,  finally 
touching  a  river  winding  through  the  dark  val- 
ley far  below,  until  its  waters  gleamed  like  bur- 
nished copper. 

Where  the  path  turns,  just  before  reaching 
the  top  of  Tiger  Hill,  the  guides  pointed  out 
Mt.  Everest,  but  so  distant  it  is  from  there,  only 
the  summit  could  be  seen.  The  Countess  find- 
ing a  place  sufficiently  sheltered  from  the  sharp 
winds  for  sketching,  remained  there  until  the 
Earl,  riding  what  his  lordship  called  "  an  old 
gentleman's  cob,"  joined  her  ladyship.  Such 
a  remarkably  clear  sunrise  was  a  blessing,  Lady 
Emily  thought;  tourists  often  wait  days  before 


the  mists  lift,  and  sometimes  leave  Darjeeling, 
without  having  a  glimpse  even  of  those  superb 
heights  they  have  travelled  thousands  of  miles 
to  see. 

I  was  wakened  the  following  morning  by  rain 
beating  against  my  windows,  and  on  looking 
out,  there  was  no  sign  of  the  grandeur  behind 
those  thick,  chilling  clouds.  All  but  the  warm 
clothing  needed  at  Darjeeling  having  been  left 
in  Calcutta,  I  had  little  work  to  do,  and  a  chance 
to  add  many  pages  to  the  notes  in  that  pretty 
book  Mr.  Stubbs  gave  me  at  Christmas. 

Turning  over  the  leaves  to  see  how  many 
were  left,  I  noticed  writing  on  one  of  the  blank 
pages  about  the  middle  of  the  book,  and  these 
three  lines  written  in  pencil: 

"  Midst  all  these  heats 
My  heart  still  beats 
For  thee  alone." 

The  pencilling  was  not  very  distinct;  the  S's 
resembled  Mr.  Stubbs's  hand,  though  other  let- 
ters did  not,  and  no  initials  nor  signature  fol- 
lowed the  verse.  Had  Mr.  Stubbs  been  the 
writer,  he  would  have  said  something  about  the 
poetry,  it  seemed  to  me.  As  he  had  not,  I  did 
not  like  mentioning  the  subject,  especially  so 
long  after  Christmas,  and  no  one  could  have 
counted  on  our  coming  among  snows  so  soon, 
and  the  climate's  suddenly  being  so  different. 
I  just  made  up  my  mind  it  must  have  been  some 
mischievous  boy  at  the  bookseller's  probably, 


where  Mr.  Stubbs  bought  the  book,  who  did  that 
writing,  but  in  any  case  it  was  safest  to  say 
nothing,  unless  Mr.  Stubbs  himself  should  speak, 
for,  unless  very  settled  and  determined-like, 
might  not  a  man's  feelings  have  changed? 

The  sun  came  out  wonderfully  clear  the  day 
we  left  Darjeerling.  I  was  thankful  to  have 
a  farewell  view  of  the  snows;  this  time  through 
forests  of  feathery  bamboo,  as  Lady  Emily 
started  early  to  visit  a  native  village  lower  on 
the  mountain's  side,  before  taking  the  train  for 
Calcutta,  at  a  station  an  hour  below  Darjeeling. 
Many  natives  crowded  around  the  train,  some 
wearing  large  nose-rings.  They  offered  bits  of 
silver  jewelry  for  sale,  necklaces,  and  amulets 
set  with  turquoise,  of  fair  size  and  colour,  and 
the  like.  The  women  look  as  strong  as  the  men; 
their  faces  are  broad  and  flat,  quite  different 
from  the  delicate  appearing  Hindus  of  the 
plains.  From  what  he  has  been  told,  Mr.  Stubbs 
thinks  they  must  have  crossed  the  mountain 
passes  toward  Thibet,  a  forbidden  land  beyond 
the  Indian  borders,  of  which  very  little  is  yet 
known. 

To  one  woman  who  held  an  infant  in  her 
arms,  Lady  Emily  gave  two  cakes  of  chocolate 
done  up  in  tin  foil,  carefully  showing  the  mother 
how  she  must  remove  the  foil,  and  throw  it 
away  before  eating  the  chocolate.  The  woman 
obeyed  instructions  as  to  removing  the  silver 
wrappings,  rolling  them  together  into  a  ball, 
which  she  swallowed,  before  Lady  Emily  could 


192  TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

prevent,  evidently  believing  the  shining  cover- 
ings too  precious  to  be  thrown  away.  The 
Countess  was  distressed  at  the  mistake,  fearing 
that  hard  substance  might  cause  illness;  but  the 
woman  could  not  understand  a  word  said,  and 
merely  smiled  her  thanks,  showing  extremely 
strong,  even  white  teeth,  and,  as  the  train  moved 
off,  we  saw  her  bending  over,  evidently  search- 
ing on  the  ground  for  more  of  that  wonderful 
silver  food  discarded  by  the  strangers. 


CHAPTER   XXXVIII 

THE  day  before  leaving  Calcutta,  I  had,  as 
usual,  packed  books,  photographs  and  other 
small  objects  scattered  about  the  rooms.  Lady 
Emily,  coming  in  just  then  from  riding,  asked 
where  the  photographs  were,  remarking  two  or 
three  of  the  views  could  be  put  in  her  writing- 
case.  I  handed  her  ladyship  that  gold  brocaded 
bag  in  which  all  the  photographs  were  kept,  and 
she  selected  first  a  large  view  of  Government 
House.  In  front  of  the  broad  white  steps  stood 
a  very  splendid,  tall,  young  gentleman,  who  re- 
peatedly, I  thought,  has  ridden  with  his  lord- 
ship and  Lady  Emily  in  Calcutta.  The  other 
photographs  chosen  by  her  ladyship  were  groups 
—  several  people  in  each  —  one,  a  polo  scene, 
I  think,  and  the  same  gentleman  appears  to  be 
just  striking  a  ball.  In  another,  I  made  out  the 
Viceroy  in  uniform,  with  an  aide-de-camp  who 
certainly  looked  precisely  like  the  same  young 
gentleman.  Though  these  last  were  only  snap 
shots,  Lady  Emily  remarked  they  would  remind 
her  pleasantly  of  India,  and  take  up  little  space 
among  her  ladyship's  own  souvenirs. 

In  returning  to  the  plains  from  Darjeeling, 

193 


194  TRAVELS   OF  A   LADY'S   MAID 

the  Countess  felt  the  heat  exceedingly  enerva- 
ting, but  Lady  Emily  considered  Calcutta  the 
most  agreeable  place  visited  during  the  entire 
trip.  The  climate  may  not  be  exhilarating,  but 
the  longer  one  remains,  she  had  found,  the  more 
there  is  to  enjoy.  In  what  part  of  the  world 
can  one  find  such  superb  moonlight,  for  instance, 
or  be  able  to  ride  and  make  river  excursions 
with  such  delightful  people,  in  midwinter? 

On  reaching  the  Calcutta  railway  station,  the 
first  person  I  saw,  was,  as  I  surmised,  the  young 
gentleman  whose  likeness  appeared  in  the  view 
of  Government  House,  and  also  in  the  snap 
shots;  and  the  same  gentleman  who  has  ridden 
with  the  Earl  and  Lady  Emily.  He  came  for- 
ward immediately,  as  the  train  stopped,  and, 
after  shaking  hands  with  the  Countess  and  Lady 
Emily,  said  the  special  carriage  reserved  for  his 
lordship  was  in  another  part  of  the  station,  but 
as  the  Benares  train  did  not  leave  until  evening 
he  presumed  they  would  go  at  once  to  Govern- 
ment House  for  tiffin.  The  Earl  replied  that, 
having  promised  to  speak  at  a  Mission  Confer- 
ence, before  joining  the  Countess  and  Lady 
Emily  at  the  Lieutenant-Governor's  garden 
party  he  would  leave  the  ladies  in  Sir  Francis's 
care. 

Before  Sir  Francis  —  for  thus  the  gentleman 
waiting  for  the  train  was  addressed  —  finished 
speaking,  a  moon-faced,  pudgy  Hindu,  with 
projecting  jaw  and  loose,  hanging  lower  lip, 
advanced  rapidly  along  the  platform,  actually 


TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S   MAID   195 

treading  upon  his  lordship's  heels,  as  he  pushed 
forward  to  where  Lady  Emily  stood,  followed 
by  two  bearers  in  untidy  white  garments  and 
legs  bare  to  the  knees.  Each  carried  a  huge, 
mound-like  erection  of  closely  pressed  together 
flowers ;  these  the  Hindu  endeavoured  to  present 
to  the  Countess  and  Lady  Emily;  not  an  easy 
matter,  as  already  they  carried  sunshades,  and 
Lady  Emily  held  the  Tibetan  prayer-wheel, 
which,  since  discovering  it  in  the  Darjeeling 
bazaar,  her  ladyship  had  been  unwilling  to  en- 
trust to  other  hands.  However,  with  cordial 
thanks,  these  strongly-scented  burdens  were  re- 
ceived and  finally  borne  off  by  Mr.  Stubbs.  It 
was  easily  seen  that  Lady  Emily  showed  no 
enthusiasm  whatever  over  the  invitation  given, 
in  low,  but  rasping  tones,  by  the  olive-hued 
young  man,  who,  notwithstanding  his  being  a 
well-known  maharajah's  son,  looked  as  though 
he  had  hastily  been  thrust  into  English  clothing 
borrowed  from  some  one  twice  his  size,  all  but 
the  small  hat  perching  upon  the  top  of  his  mas- 
sive head  and  tilted  far  over  eyes  gleaming  ad- 
miringly towards  Lady  Emily,  who,  in  spite  of 
the  night's  travel,  looked  bewitchingly  radiant 
in  a  long  coat  of  white  China  silk,  her  Panama 
hat  having  an  embroidered  scarf  of  the  same 
silk  covering  the  wide  brim,  as  he  begged  she 
would  permit  him  to  show  her  his  new  Mer- 
cedes,—  a  beauty  well  worthy  close  inspection 
—  the  following  day,  saying  he  had  also  just 
received  a  splendid  assortment  of  comic  pieces 


196  TRAVELS   OF  A   LADY'S   MAID 

for    his    talking    machine,    among    them    that 
song :  — 

"  O !    'ow  'appy,  'appy,  'appy  could  I  be, 
If  I  only  knew  my  love  loved  me." 

"  Positively  you  felt  you  were  listening  to  the 
real  thing  in  those  never-to-be-forgotten  London 
Halls  of  Music;  nothing  half  so  fetching,  or  to 
compare  with  them  in  India,  as  yet,  I  can  as- 
sure you,"  declared  this  rotund  little  prince, 
kissing  the  ends  of  his  stubby  fingers  as  though 
the  mere  recollection  of  past  joys  was  beyond  the 
power  of  ordinary  expression. 

Lady  Emily  failed  to  show  the  slightest  inter- 
est in  the  entertainments  proffered,  replying 
they  intended  leaving  Calcutta  almost  at  once, 
as  she  walked  towards  the  waiting  rooms  with 
Sir  Francis,  who  evidently  considered  the  Prince 
and  his  towering  bouquets  a  most  unexpectedly 
unwelcome  intrusion;  in  fact,  as  he  stopped  an 
instant  before  speaking  with  the  railway  officials, 
I  distinctly  heard  the  words:  "Amazing,  insuf- 
ferable ass! " 

Mr.  Stubbs  having  errands  to  do,  I  started 
with  him,  in  a  gharri,  to  get  a  few  articles  not 
needed  at  Darjeeling,  and  left  in  the  Calcutta 
apartment.  Finding  himself  at  the  Maidan, 
near  the  Parish  School,  where  the  Conference 
was  being  held,  Mr.  Stubbs  went  in,  just  as  his 
lordship  began  a  most  interesting,  moving  ad- 
dress. Some  of  the  remarks  Mr.  Stubbs  noted 
down,  as  is  his  habit  when  he  wishes  to  remem- 


ber,  always  carrying  a  small  book  in  his  pocket, 
pencil,  and  reel  of  thread  also,  with  needles,  in 
case  of  accident  to  his  clothing.  The  Earl  spoke 
of  feeling  it  a  valued  privilege  to  have  seen  for 
himself  the  efforts  made  by  good  men  and 
women  in  all  parts  of  the  world,  and  from  these 
experiences  could  truly  say,  self-denying  labours 
are  never  in  vain.  Heartily  wishing  them  every 
happiness,  and  continued  success  in  their  ardu- 
ous work ;  if,  as  a  layman,  he  might  be  permitted 
to  offer  a  word  of  advice,  or  rather,  place  before 
them  thoughts  coming  to  his  mind  in  connection 
with  foreign  lands,  he  would  speak  of  lights  that 
have  failed,  and  efforts  that  can  rightly  be  made 
towards  strengthening  the  things  that  remain  of 
good,  in  ancient  faiths.  Where  earnest  teachers 
of  old  have  taught  truths,  teachers  in  these  days 
should  recognize  this  good,  and  through  such 
beginnings  lead  to  nobler  faith  and  action.  New 
ideas  cannot  immediately  be  grasped,  nor  old 
traditions  thrown  aside.  Something  touching 
foods  suitable  for  hot  countries  was  said,  and 
that  native  habits  and  beliefs  regarding  eating 
of  meats  must  be  respected.  Mr.  Stubbs,  how- 
ever, having  to  hurry  off  to  see  about  some  par- 
cels expected  from  England,  missed  part  of  the 
address,  and  could  not  remain  for  the  prize- 
giving  to  the  children,  but,  in  passing  from  the 
hall,  perceived  that  his  lordship's  speech  im- 
pressed the  audience  greatly,  and  several  re- 
marked that  it  was  altogether  the  best  made  that 
day, 


198  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

Near  the  chapel  entrance,  on  his  way  out,  Mr. 
Stubbs  nearly  ran  into  a  wailing  Hindu  found- 
ling, waiting,  in  its  godmother's  arms,  to  re- 
nounce the  pomps  and  vanities  of  this  world. 


CHAPTER   XXXIX 

LADY  EMILY  considered  the  garden  party 
perfectly  delightful,  the  scene  enchanting,  when 
all  the  guests  assembled  on  the  green  lawns  to 
greet  the  Viceroy,  who  came  in  state  with  out- 
riders, members  of  his  staff  with  him,  of  course, 
and  that  aide-de-camp,  who  was  Sir  Francis,  a 
distant  kinsman  of  the  Viceroy,  and  her  own 
also,  though  they  never  had  met  until  that  first 
night  at  Government  House,  when  Sir  Francis 
took  her  ladyship  in  to  dinner.  Lady  Emily 
remarked  she  had  at  once  the  feeling  of  having 
always  known  him;  and  strangely  enough,  Sir 
Francis  mentioned  this  same  feeling  to  her  lady- 
ship and  was  most  thoughtful  in  pointing  out 
the  celebrities,  —  native  princes  attired  in  gar- 
ments strikingly  like  dressing-gowns,  over  which 
gorgeous  necklaces  are  worn,  emeralds,  —  full 
of  flaws,  of  course,  but  immense  in  size,  —  and 
huge  pearls.  Several  maharanees  were  present, 
charming  in  manner  and  features.  Her  ladyship 
spoke  with  these  ladies  for  a  few  moments  in 
the  large  marquee  on  the  lawn,  where  delicious 
ices  and  other  refreshments  were  served. 

After  this,  and  until  it  was  time  to  return  to 
Government  House,  before  leaving  for  the  Be- 

199 


200  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

nares  train,  her  ladyship  strolled  about  the  gar- 
dens, Sir  Francis  being  especially  anxious  she 
should  see  some  rare  tropical  blossoms ;  far  more 
entertaining,  he  declared,  than  a  lot  of  distin- 
guished travellers,  or  jealous  native  reprobates, 
looking  daggers  at  other  equally  puffed  out 
"  Highnesses  "  if  the  Viceroy  happened  to  ad- 
dress one,  when  another  thought  he  should  have 
been  spoken  to  first. 

At  the  railway  station  there  was  great  con- 
fusion and  rushing  about.  I  half  feared  Sir 
Francis  would  be  injured,  for  positively  he  did 
not  leave  the  carriage  until  the  train  started, 
placing,  just  at  that  moment,  —  after  the  other 
ladies  and  gentlemen  had  left,  —  a  small  pack- 
age in  Lady  Emily's  hand.  It  contained  one 
of  the  flowers  Sir  Francis  had  in  mind  and 
searched  for  when  walking  with  her  ladyship 
that  afternoon  at  the  garden  party.  Later  Lady 
Emily  opened  the  package.  I  could  not  help 
seeing  it  contained  much  writing,  about  the 
specimens  probably,  as  Lady  Emily  is  quite  de- 
voted to  botany,  always  keen,  Fraulein  thought, 
to  know  the  names,  and  examine  with  magnify- 
ing glasses  the  wild  flowers  near  Ortham. 

The  Countess  gave  a  Latin  name  to  the  large, 
odd-looking  blossom  that  dropped  out  of  the 
envelope,  saying  she  believed  it  belonged  to  that 
family.  The  guide,  being  asked  the  Indian 
name,  replied,  "  It  is  a  flower  greatly  cher- 
ished by  Hindu  brides."  Though  no  comments 
were  made,  I  did  also  see  what  appeared  to  be 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  201 

a  sprig  of  faded  white  heather,  and  a  few  small 
blue  flowers,  I  should  have  thought  ordinary 
English  forget-me-nots.  The  light,  however, 
was  somewhat  dim,  and  I  may  be  mistaken. 

Showing  no  disposition  to  read  the  pages  then, 
Lady  Emily  simply  glanced  over  the  closely 
written  sheets  before  bidding  the  Earl  and 
Countess  "  Good  night,"  saying  she  intended  to 
be  up  early  the  following  morning;  but,  after 
I  had  fastened  the  curtains  about  her  ladyship's 
berth,  she  called  me  back  to  say  I  might  bring 
that  little  acetylene  reading  lamp  that  hooked 
into  the  inner  shutters  of  the  sleeping  apart- 
ment, and  need  not  return  to  put  the  light  out. 


CHAPTER   XL 

BENAEES  is  the  religious  heart  of  India,  the 
Earl  explained  to  Lady  Emily  —  her  ladyship 
prefers  Calcutta  —  and  the  sights  pass  all  for 
strangeness.  Soon  after  dawn  we  were  in  a 
small  boat  on  the  Ganges,  and  as  the  sun  rose, 
thousands,  —  men,  women  and  children,  —  came 
down  stone  steps  or  through  narrow  lanes  below 
the  many  temples  ranged  along  the  river's  west 
bank,  to  prostrate  themselves,  offering  prayers 
and  washing  their  bodies  in  the  sacred  waters. 
Some  of  the  ash-daubed,  half  naked  fakirs,  are 
vowed  to  remain  a  month,  or  longer,  in  the  same 
position. 

As  we  moved  slowly  along  it  was  easy  to  see 
how  earnestly  absorbed  all  were  in  devotion  to 
their  beliefs,  whatever  these  may  be.  Aged  men 
are  brought  on  litters  to  the  holy  stream,  wait- 
ing there,  patiently  exultant,  for  death  to  come, 
and  as  their  eyes  close  peacefully  for  the  last 
time,  gaze  thankfully  on  the  beloved  and,  to 
them,  sacred  stream  of  life.  * 

Near  one  group,  sheltering  under  a  large 
straw  mat  umbrella,  stood  an  elderly  man  bare 
to  the  waist,  his  skin  white  and  pink  as  a  child's. 
"  He  must  be  a  European,"  Lady  Emily  ex- 

202 


TRAVELS   OF  A   LADY'S   MAID  203 

claimed ;  but  the  guide  said,  "  No,  your  lady- 
ship, that  is  a  leper."  According  to  our  ideas, 
it  seems  terribly  strange  for  one  so  afflicted  to 
bathe  within  a  few  feet  of  thousands,  who,  with 
queer  caste  marks,  freshly  placed  by  the  priests 
upon  their  foreheads,  drink  and  throw  upon  their 
bodies  the  water  in  which  all  stand. 

The  red  sandstone  temples  and  turrets  tower- 
ing above  the  river,  and  the  sun's  rays,  threw 
a  rosy  glow  over  even  the  saddest  part  of  the 
scene;  those  ghats,  or  steps  where  the  dead  are 
brought  to  be  burned.  Lying  upon  open  biers 
carried  by  bearers,  the  bodies  after  being  im- 
mersed in  the  river,  are  placed  on  the  ground 
near  the  water,  while  the  fire,  that  seldom  goes 
out,  is  prepared;  then  one  of  the  mourners,  the 
eldest  son,  perhaps,  walks  five  times  around  the 
funeral  pyre,  striking  the  forehead  of  the  dead, 
to  signify  that  life  has  departed.  Wood  is 
heaped  up  about  the  corpse,  oil  is  applied,  and 
a  wisp  of  blazing  straw  touches  the  fagots  into 
flame. 

Even  in  the  calm  beauty  of  early  morning,  it 
is  a  sadly  depressing  performance;  and  I  was 
thankful  when  we  returned  to  Benares,  though 
the  evil-smelling,  flower-strewn  temples  and 
courts  at  which  we  stopped  were  also  distressing 
places.  At  one  temple  monkeys  climbed  every- 
where, chattering  like  children;  and  in  another, 
bulls  —  representing  in  some  way  Almighty 
power  —  are  kept  as  objects  of  veneration  or 
worship. 


204  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

That  afternoon  the  Earl  and  Countess  visited 
a  great  Maharajah,  whose  palace,  on  the  other 
side  of  the  Ganges,  is  furnished  quite  in  the 
modern  manner.  Ornamental  clocks,  often  con- 
taining music  boxes  which  greatly  delight  the 
natives;  and  vases,  the  gifts  of  distinguished 
guests,  adorn  the  reception  rooms.  A  fine  tiger 
caged  in  the  courtyard,  striding  and  turning  in 
his  narrow  prison,  seemed  very  unhappy. 

An  hour  also  was  passed  in  a  Benares  garden 
conversing  with  a  venerable  man  considered  an 
extremely  holy  person  by  the  Brahmins.  Mr. 
Stubbs  believes  him  something  like  a  soothsayer 
or  seer.  He  wore  almost  no  raiment,  and  sat 
upon  the  ground,  shaded  by  trees,  his  posture 
reminding  one  of  the  great  teacher  Buddha, 
whose  beliefs  he  foEows.  A  kindly  smile  and 
manner  convince  those  seeing  him  that  his 
thoughts  are  pure  and  lofty,  though  you  might 
not  wish  to  follow  all  his  views;  for  instance, 
as  to  returning  over  and  over  to  this  world,  for 
growth  and  discipline,  and  many  other  things. 

Lady  Emily,  finding  the  air  of  Benares  rather 
depressing  after  Calcutta,  preferred  remaining 
at  the  hotel  instead  of  making  these  visits. 

Several  short  stops  were  made  at  different 
towns  before  reaching  Agra;  one,  I  remember, 
at  Cawnpore,  where,  in  a  walled  cemetery,  lie 
the  bodies  of  many  English,  slaughtered  in  that 
fearful  mutiny.  No  native,  even  now,  is  ever 
permitted  to  enter  the  gates.  Mr.  Stubbs  con- 
siders it  would  be  more  Christian  to  let  such  as 


TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  205 

were  in  no  way  concerned  in  the  massacring  pass 
inside  and  see  that  beautiful  white  marble  angel 
of  consolation  guarding  the  tombs;  but  these 
laws,  made  long  ago,  are  still  kept. 

At  some  places  I  could  not  enjoy  the  trip  at 
all,  we  saw  so  many  suffering  from  famine; 
such  desolate  little  children,  with  swollen  bodies 
and  thin,  pinched  faces,  their  arms  and  legs  like 
wands.  In  a  piteously  gentle  way  they  wailed 
"  Memsahib,  oh,  Memsahib!"  meaning  they 
wanted  something  to  satisfy  their  hunger.  The 
Government  endeavours  to  provide  work  for 
those  able  to  do  anything,  and  food  for  the  help- 
less. For  the  smallest  coin,  or  a  few  grains  of 
rice,  their  gratitude  is  touching;  but  so  many 
are  suffering,  —  thousands,  the  Lord  Bishop  of 
Allahabad  said,  —  in  that  district  alone,  justly 
entitled,  by  infirmity  and  poverty,  to  succour, 
and  so  few  to  minister  to  this  appalling  misery! 

The  Earl  and  Countess  constantly  subscribed 
to  famine  and  plague  funds,  and  Lady  Emily 
continually  handed  out  money,  sometimes  her- 
self giving  it  to  sightless  lepers  with  disfiguring 
sores,  stretching  out  fingerless  hands  in  piteous 
appeal  for  alms,  saying  she  intended  to  forget, 
in  India,  those  English  rules  of  organized  char- 
ity. But  the  agonizing  distress  goes  on  year 
after  year  in  spite  of  everything  attempted  in 
the  way  of  relief.  I  could  only  pray,  "  May 
God  end  it  speedily!" 


CHAPTER   XLI 

OF  all  the  beautiful  Indian  towns,  Agra  seems 
to  me  the  most  charming,  with  that  wonderful 
temple  tomb  by  the  river,  costing  millions  of  ru- 
pees, one  must  believe,  having  seen  its  marvellous 
gems  and  lace-like  carvings,  placed  there  as  a 
king's  memorial  to  his  queen;  and  there  he  rests 
by  the  side  of  his  beloved  consort.  By  day,  and 
under  the  full,  glowing  moon,  (very  different 
from  the  watery  ball  the  London  March  moon 
is  apt  to  look),  more  than  once  I  went  to  this 
exquisite  garden  tomb  with  Lady  Emily,  as  the 
Countess's  strength  did  not  permit  her  making 
many  excursions.  Lady  Emily  seemed  never  to 
tire  of  walking  upon  the  terraces,  reading  from 
a  book  of  poems,  often,  or  sitting  where  she 
could  gaze  into  the  mirror-like  pools  of  water 
reflecting  that  lovely  Taj  Mahal,  and  its  beau- 
teous surroundings.  Lady  Emily  was  reminded 
of  the  devotion  shown  by  our  own  king,  the  first 
Edward,  to  his  loved  Eleanor,  and  those  twelve 
crosses  set  up  in  England  in  remembrance  of 
that  sad  journey  to  her  last  resting-place,  in  the 
Abbey  at  Westminster. 

Thinking  of  these  things  leads  her  ladyship 
to  realize  what  man's  devotion  could  mean, 
though  she  has  been  told,  and  Fraulein,  —  who 

206 


TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S   MAID  207 

considers  herself  almost  a  widow,  having  in  early 
youth  been  betrothed  to  a  Professor,  an  elderly 
widower,  having  five  children  —  who  died  sud- 
denly, —  confirms  this  belief,  that  woman's  love 
is  deepest  and  more  enduring.  Lady  Emily  had 
never  spoken  to  me  on  such  subjects  before.  I 
could  see,  however,  that  some  reply  seemed  ex- 
pected, and  my  own  feeling  told  me  that  agree- 
ing with  her  ladyship  regarding  this  would  be 
safe. 

An  expedition,  pronounced  "  bewitching  "  by 
Lady  Emily,  was  made  from  Agra  to  Futteh- 
pore-Sikri,  where  some  great  monarch,  in  by-gone 
ages,  built  a  beautiful  mosque  and  palace.  One 
old  building  has  recently  been  refitted,  and  here 
the  Earl's  party  slept,  though  Lady  Emily  de- 
clared sleeping  in  such  fascinating  surroundings 
to  be  almost  impossible,  and  passed  the  greater 
part  of  the  night  —  though  it  was  by  no  means 
warm,  judging  from  what  her  ladyship  told  me 
—  on  a  terraced  balcony  above  the  charming 
marble  court  where  the  old  king's  slaves  used 
to  perform  as  living  chessmen,  or  some  similar 
game,  he  himself  directing  the  moves. 

Another  excursion,  to  Gwalior,  the  fortressed 
abode  of  a  Maharajah,  delighted  her  ladyship. 
While  the  Earl  and  Countess  attended  an  en- 
tertainment, called  in  India  a  durbar,  I  was  sent 
with  Emily  and  the  native  guide  Silva,  —  his 
mother  a  Hindu  and  his  father  a  Portuguese,  — 
who,  knowing  more  about  this  part  of  India, 
had  replaced  Lai,  to  climb  a  long,  steep  hill 


208  TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S   MAID 

above  the  town,  upon  the  back  of  a  splendid 
elephant.  The  great  beast  knelt  meekly  as  we 
mounted  by  a  ladder  into  the  houdah,  and  then 
swaying  and  shuddering  as  though  hoping  to 
frighten  us  off,  finally  settled  to  a  steady  walk. 
His  front  legs,  put  down  in  a  cautious,  gingerly 
manner,  appeared  to  have  a  different  gait  from 
those  behind,  which  were  carried  rather  stiffly, 
as  the  big  creature  rolled  along. 

In  passing  under  an  arched  gateway  near  the 
top  of  the  wall,  we  saw  musicians  seated  in  a 
balcony,  over  the  gate,  and  stopped  to  listen, 
as  they  played  on  uncouth-appearing  instru- 
ments. Weird,  Oriental  music,  Lady  Emily 
thought  it.  From  the  hill-top  wide  views  spread 
out  in  all  directions ;  and  one  or  two  richly  deco- 
rated temples  were  seen,  also  rows  of  enormous 
figures,  cut  from  the  rocks,  standing  by  the 
roadside  where  they  had  been  carved. 

When  we  returned  to  the  town,  Lady  Emily 
could  hardly  be  persuaded  to  leave  the  Mahara- 
jah's stables,  as  that  prince  owned  several  really 
fine  English  thoroughbreds.  Then  a  long  stop 
had  to  be  made  in  order  to  see  the  elephants  fed. 
These  huge  brutes  greatly  enjoyed  their  meal 
of  sugar-cane,  and  big  round  cakes  —  grain  of 
some  sort,  I  fancy,  —  especially  pleased  them  as 
they  trumpeted  loudly  for  more,  after  devouring 
each  doled-out  portion. 

Just  as  we  turned  away  to  leave,  the  largest 
elephant  of  all  came  into  the  yard  at  a  smart 
pace,  evidently  fearing  he  might  be  late  for 


TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  209 

supper.  This  enormous  beast  was  tooled  along 
by  a  small,  slender  child,  a  boy  perhaps  ten 
years  old.  Before  I  realized  how  near  the  ele- 
phant, guided  by  the  mahout,  was  to  where  we 
stood,  the  beast  trumpeted  angrily,  as  if  consid- 
ering visitors  an  intrusion,  and  struck  viciously 
with  his  trunk.  In  spite  of  warning  cries  from 
the  keepers,  I  managed  to  get  between  him  and 
Lady  Emily,  and  should,  I  fear,  have  been 
trampled  on  had  not  Mr.  Stubbs,  who,  sent  by 
the  Earl  to  tell  Lady  Emily  it  was  time  to  leave 
for  the  Agra  train,  had  been  looking  everywhere, 
appeared  at  that  instant,  and  hurling  me  vio- 
lently to  one  side  of  the  path,  safe  though  trem- 
bling in  every  limb,  bravely  placed  himself  in 
front,  opening  and  closing  his  lordship's  um- 
brella as  he  waved  it  protectingly  over  me, 
stamping  hard  at  the  same  time,  and  exclaiming, 
"Stand,  shoo!" 

Enraged  by  this  disturbance,  all  the  other 
elephants  made  a  tremendous  uproar,  tugging 
at  heavy  iron  chains  by  which  they  were  fas- 
tened; balancing  their  huge  bodies,  first  on  one 
foot  and  then  on  another,  turning  and  bellowing 
loudly  as  they  threw  back  their  trunks  and 
waved  them  over  their  heads  in  a  most  excited 
manner.  Not  being  much  accustomed  to  ele- 
phants' ways,  I  did  feel  faint,  and  thankful 
when  Mr.  Stubbs  whispered  he  would  help  me 
to  the  carriages  waiting  outside  the  animals' 
quarters,  in  which  we  soon  returned  to  the  guest 
house  on  our  way  to  the  railway  station. 


CHAPTER   XLII 

AT  Lucknow,  a  great  deal  connected  with  that 
awful  mutiny  was  to  be  seen  and  described. 
What  days  of  heart-rending  anguish  must  have 
been  endured  by  those  inside  the  forts,  and  by 
those  attempting  to  rescue  the  besieged  women 
and  children,  in  such  fearful  peril  from  shells, 
and  with  the  brutal  enemy  attacking  and  over- 
coming one  hiding-place  after  another;  until, 
when  all  despaired  of  succour,  our  glorious 
Scotch  bagpipes  told,  unmistakably,  that  relief 
at  last  was  near. 

I  am  silly  over  being  a  Highland  lassie,  Mr. 
Stubbs  declares;  but  the  love  of  lochs,  moors, 
bagpipes  and  heather  is  born  in  me,  and  never 
can  fail  while  life  lasts. 

One  night,  Hindu  magicians,  —  three  or  four 
white-robed  men,  —  gave  an  exhibition  of  their 
marvellous  doings.  Even  when  the  tricks,  or 
whatever  they  may  be,  are  explained,  they  seem 
almost  as  wonderful  as  ever.  How  can  a  cov- 
ered basket  be  pierced  in  every  direction  with 
a  sword,  until  blood  flows  out,  without  destroy- 
ing the  small  boy  you  have  seen  curled  up  in- 
side? Mr.  Stubbs  described  his  having  caught 
the  jugglers  with  a  bladder  full  of  something 

210 


the  colour  of  blood;  and  believes  also,  instead 
of  real  mangoes  growing  out  of  flower-pots,  as 
you  watch,  the  conjurors  slip  in  one  plant  after 
another.  Detecting  such  doings  is  impossible, 
they  are  that  skilful;  but,  as  Mr.  Stubbs  inti- 
mated to  them,  he  is  not  a  man  easily  deceived, 
and  feels  sure  he  has  discovered  some,  if  not  all, 
of  their  methods.  I  much  preferred  the  tricks 
to  those  horrible  serpents  the  snake-charmers 
brought;  handling  pythons,  writhing  cobras 
and  other  reptiles  as  though  they  were  kittens. 
The  Countess  rebuked  one  man  wanting  to  show 
a  battle  between  a  cobra  and  a  mongoose,  say- 
ing such  cruelties  could  not  be  permitted  in  her 
presence.  Her  ladyship  greatly  disliked  an- 
other performance,  when  a  man  like  a  skeleton, 
he  was  that  emaciated,  forced  weights  behind 
his  eyeballs,  supporting  by  them  a  basket  filled 
with  glass  balls  and  other  objects. 

Mr.  Stubbs  is  convinced  we  still  are  treading 
on  volcanoes  in  India;  an  unheaval  may  come 
without  warning,  none  can  prophesy  what  may 
happen.  He  has  studied  native  ways  for  him- 
self, and  heard  much  of  their  doings,  ever  since 
he  was  a  lad,  from  having  an  uncle  in  the  service 
of  a  former  viceroy.  The  Indians  have  such 
uncommon,  mysterious  ways.  From  one  end 
of  the  land  to  the  other  they  send  messages,  by 
smearing  the  trees,  or  handing  from  one  village 
to  another  those  small  dried  cakes.  Killing  flies 
seems  to  be  forbidden,  but  nearly  twisting  the 
tail  off  a  hard-worked  or  obstinate  bullock  is 


212  TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S   MAID 

tolerated,  and  if  a  troublesome  monkey  chances 
to  fall  into  a  swift-flowing  stream,  in  trying  to 
drink,  temperance  societies  are  not  organized 
to  save  him.  After  seeing  the  tropics  for  him- 
self, Mr.  Stubbs  inclines  to  agree  with  those  pre- 
ferring an  honest  potato  patch  or  turnip  field  at 
home,  to  all  the  waving  palms  or  coral  strands 
to  be  found  abroad. 


CHAPTER   XLIII 

THE  streets  of  Delhi  resemble  a  scene  on  the 
stage,  Mr.  Stubbs  asserts,  reminding  him,  also, 
of  his  favourite  Champs  Elysees,  though  the 
setting  is  different.  Nothing  pleases  him  better 
than  strolling  along  that  broad  Chandni  Chauk, 
studying  native  methods  and  watching  the  mov- 
ing throngs  on  foot,  and  in  every  sort  of  vehi- 
cle; horsemen  and  camel  riders,  as  well.  In 
speaking  of  Delhi,  a  valet  told  him  to  go  to 
Chandni  Chauk  for  anything  wanted;  and  Mr. 
Stubbs  getting  it  fixed  in  his  mind  as  a  shop 
could  hardly  be  persuaded,  the  first  time  he 
started  out,  —  having  taken  a  gharri  in  order 
to  attend  to  various  errands,  —  but  what  the 
driver  was  trying  to  cheat,  when  he  wanted  to 
leave  him  at  some  corner  shop  called  Ram's; 
pretending,  as  Mr.  Stubbs  then  thought,  that 
he  knew  no  dealer  named  Chandni  Chauk. 

One  morning,  clear,  and  crisp  for  India,  Lady 
Emily  wishing  to  make  purchases,  I  accom- 
panied her  ladyship  and  Silva  to  the  bazaars. 
It  is  difficult  to  escape  the  peddlers  and  toots, 
always  hanging  around  gates  and  verandas, 
clinging  to  the  carriage  steps  if  they  get  half 
a  chance,  and,  when  driven  from  one  side,  rush- 

213 


214  TRAVELS   OF  A   LADY'S   MAID 

ing  nimbly  to  the  other,  or  hiding  behind  and 
shrieking,  "  Memsahib,  buy  me.  Buy  my  shop, 
lady.  Nudder  man,  he  no  good!"  After  an 
hour's  shopping  we  stopped  at  a  palace  built 
by  one  of  the  old  rulers,  a  Shah  Jehan.  In  those 
days  this  palace  must  indeed  have  been  splendid, 
one  throne  room  surpassing  all  for  magnificence. 
An  English  soldier,  from  the  barracks  near, 
seemed  to  have  oversight  of  this  place.  He  was 
not  long  from  home,  evidently,  though  much 
freckled  by  the  Indian  sun,  and  limping  some- 
what from  rather  tight  boots.  Calling  Lady 
Emily's  attention  to  where  the  Peacock  Throne 
—  a  wonderfully  jewelled  chair  —  had  stood 
until  it  was  stolen  or  destroyed,  he  explained  the 
inscription  in  Persian  letters  upon  the  wall, 
meant,  — 

"If  on  earth  be  an  Eden  of  bliss, 
It  is  this,  it  is  this." 

The  young  man's  hair  was  extremely  red,  and 
when  he  rolled  very  blue  eyes  towards  the  ceil- 
ing, reciting  these  lines,  but  changing  the  sound 
to,  — 

"  If  hon  hearth  be  han  Heden  of  bliss, 
It  is  this,  it  is  this." 

her  ladyship,  I  could  see,  found  it  hard  to  refrain 
from  smiling. 

The  following  day,  Lady  Emily,  with  the 
Earl  and  Countess,  attended  a  picnic  given  in 
their  honour  by  the  British  General  stationed  at 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  215 

Delhi.  Mr.  Stubbs  went  on  the  box  of  one  of 
the  carriages.  The  drive  of  ten  miles  to  the  old 
city  of  Delhi  was  most  entertaining,  he  thought; 
tombs  and  mosques  the  whole  way,  nearly,  and 
one  small  memorial  column,  the  most  ancient  of 
all,  had  been  placed  by  the  roadside  hundreds 
of  years  before  our  Lord's  birth.  After  making 
a  fairly  good  meal,  he  found  one  of  the  noted 
sights,  near  the  sort  of  tea-house  where  lunch- 
eon had  been  served,  was  a  beautiful  tower,  the 
Kutab.  The  prospect  from  the  top  he  consid- 
ered well  worth  mounting  hundreds  of  steps  to 
see,  and  learned  also  that  almost  upon  that  spot 
the  "  Thousand  and  One  Nights  "  tales  —  af- 
fording him  much  entertainment  as  a  lad  —  had 
been  told.  The  ladies  and  gentlemen  stopped  to 
examine  a  deep  well,  in  which,  it  is  said,  one  can 
never  drown,  and  a  small  Hindu  boy  plunged 
down  so  many  shivering  feet,  Mr.  Stubbs  could 
hardly  bear  to  look  at  him,  thankful  though  he 
was,  to  see  the  little  chap  rise  safely  to  the  sur- 
face. 

On  leaving  Delhi,  three  days  were  passed 
at  Amritsar,  the  Earl  desiring  to  show  the 
Countess  and  Lady  Emily  a  wonderful  golden 
temple,  standing  in  the  centre  of  a  lake  and 
reached  by  a  beautiful  marble  causeway.  Late 
one  afternoon,  I  went  to  this  spot,  which  is  much 
revered  by  the  people  of  Amritsar,  with  Mr. 
Stubbs,  who  much  disliked  having  to  remove 
his  boots  and  put  on  felt  slippers;  but  the 
natives  considering  the  slaughtering  of  cows  a 


216  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

sort  of  insult  to  their  religious  beliefs,  will  not 
permit  leather  soles  to  enter  the  temple;  and, 
after  all,  though  not  approving  the  worship  of 
beasts  in  any  way,  Mr.  Stubbs  believes  in  teach- 
ings that  uphold  kindly  treatment  of  animals, 
and  these  views  he  considers  akin  to  those  held 
by  many  of  our  London  clergy,  who  greatly 
dislike  those  showy  hats,  decorated  with  plu- 
mage torn  from  wild  birds  and  worn  in  the 
churches  by  their  parishioners.  The  golden  dome 
reflected  in  the  water,  and  throngs  of  gaily  at- 
tired people,  the  Sikhs  and  others,  reputed  very 
loyal  to  the  British,  made  a  splendid,  stirring 
sight,  though  to  my  mind,  more  natural  scenes, 
—  hills,  peaceful  valleys  and  snowy  heights,  - 
give  most  satisfaction. 

Sunday  was  spent  at  Lahore,  a  little  beyond 
the  city,  in  a  pleasant  bungalow  owned  by 
friends  of  the  Earl's.  The  gardens  are  tasteful, 
cultivated  spots,  but  not  so  full  of  flowers  as  our 
own  trim  bed  in  England.  Industries  of  all 
sorts  are  carried  on  out  of  doors  in  Lahore  and 
one  could  walk  its  streets  for  hours  without  tir- 
ing. Workers  of  every  description  are  con- 
stantly busy,  and  the  narrow  thronged  lanes, 
backed  by  carved  house-fronts  and  latticed  win- 
dows, are  like  pictures. 


CHAPTER   XLIV 

AT  Rawal  Pindi  we  lived  in  a  village  of  tents. 
As  it  is  a  large  military  post,  there  are  tents 
of  every  variety  and  size;  some  connected  by 
canvas  corridors,  and  in  these  the  Countess  and 
Lady  Emily  lodged.  They  were  extremely 
comfortable,  though  open  fires  seemed  decidedly 
agreeable  during  the  February  nights  spent 
there.  The  Earl  desiring  that  the  Countess 
should  have  a  glimpse  towards  Kashmir,  a 
region  where,  before  his  lordship's  marriage, 
he  had  passed  a  summer,  an  expedition  to  Mur- 
ree  was  arranged  for  the  following  day  from 
Pindi,  but  the  morning  proving  raw  and  disa- 
greeable, the  Countess  thought  best  not  to  go, 
and  I  was  sent  with  Lady  Emily.  A  young 
lady  from  the  Commanding  General's  family 
accompanied  her  ladyship  in  the  victoria,  and  the 
General's  aide-de-camp  rode  with  his  lordship. 

Several  miles  from  Pindi,  rough  vehicles, 
called  tongas,  waited,  in  which  we  ascended  the 
mountain  roads,  the  carriage  being  sent  back  to 
the  Post.  After  climbing  steep,  bare  hillsides 
and  toiling  through  narrow  mountain  passes  for 
many  miles,  changing  the  horses  repeatedly  — 

217 


218  TRAVELS   OF  A   LADY'S   MAID 

as  they  went  at  a  brisk  pace  —  the  snow 
became  so  deep  that  the  roads  were  no  longer 
passable  for  wheels,  and  all  of  the  party  had  to 
be  carried,  by  bearers,  in  chairs  or  doolies,  until 
the  bungalow  placed  at  the  Earl's  disposal  was 
reached.  Here,  it  was  delightful  to  find  that 
wood  fires  blazed  delightfully,  some  on  open 
hearths,  and  almost  scalding  tea  was  ready  to  be 
served  by  a  decrepit,  but  low-salaaming  Kitmut- 
gar. 

The  sun  shone  brightly  the  next  morning, 
and,  before  Lady  Emily  finished  dressing,  a 
heavy  fringe  of  icicles  —  formed  over  night  on 
the  veranda-roof  —  had  melted.  I  heard  her 
ladyship  say  to  Miss  Bernice,  the  General's 
youngest  daughter,  that  she  was  delighted,  it 
would  now  be  possible  to  ride  that  morning,  as 
they  had  intended  doing,  for  a  view  towards  the 
Vale  of  Kashmir.  If  one  could  get  there  dur- 
ing the  winter  season,  the  scenery  would,  no 
doubt,  be  charming,  but  she  felt  especially  eager 
even  to  look  in  that  direction,  since  having  heard 
a  most  lovely  poem,  "  Lalla  Rookh "  read  at 
Government  House  one  evening,  when  tableaux 
representing  scenes  in  the  heroine's  life  were 
given,  and  Sir  Francis,  the  Viceroy's  A.  D.  C., 
who  reads  charmingly,  recited  parts  of  the  poem 
as  the  pictures  were  being  shown;  and  after- 
wards had  told  of  a  most  interesting  visit  to 
Kashmir,  made  by  him,  —  he  already  had 
achieved  success  as  an  explorer,  —  during  the 
hot  weather  of  the  previous  year. 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  219 

When  her  ladyship  returned  to  the  bungalow, 
before  starting  for  Rawal  Pindi,  she  was  enthu- 
siastic over  the  rugged  hills  they  had  climbed 
on  rough  ponies  in  the  frosty,  invigorating  air, 
describing  the  fine,  wide  valleys  seen  beyond  the 
wild  peaks  and  snowy  mountain  ranges,  giving 
one,  the  Earl  thought,  a  fair  idea  of  those  in 
Kashmir,  though  by  no  means  as  well  watered 
and  fertile. 

On  leaving  Lahore,  came  a  night's  ride  by 
train.  One  could  feel  the  engine  pulling  heav- 
ily up  grade  and  the  air  became  decidedly  chilly. 
When  the  moon  struggled  out  from  under  the 
clouds,  I  could  see  we  were  moving  along  bar- 
ren, rocky  hillsides;  but  towards  morning  fields 
of  millet  surrounded  the  straggling  hamlets. 

Near  Attock,  where  the  Earl  stopped  for 
tiffin,  at  the  fortress  commanding  the  narrow 
valley,  a  rushing  stream  was  crossed,  the  river 
Indus,  Lady  Emily  said,  adding  that  this  region 
was  associated  with  a  famous  general  of  olden 
times  named  Alexander,  who  conquered  the 
greater  part  of  the  world.  Descendants  of  his 
soldiers  still  dwell  in  the  Punjab,  distinguished 
from  other  natives  by  blue  eyes  and  fairer  skins. 
In  case  of  attempt  by  Russia  to  enter  India, 
Attock  would  be  a  vitally  important  point  to 
protect,  Mr.  Stubbs  understands,  and  says  that 
these  new  guns  mounted  on  the  fortress  are 
marvels  of  power  and  accuracy  of  aim.  He 
trusts  they  never  will  be  turned  towards  any 
invading  foes,  but  should  war  come,  he  knows, 


220  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

from  what  he  has  himself  seen,  that  they  would 
speak  loudly  and  surely;  and  no  braver,  truer 
men  can  be  found  in  any  part  of  the  world  than 
those  behind  the  guns. 


CHAPTER   XLV 

SEVERAL  officers  waited  to  greet  the  Earl  at 
the  Peshawar  station,  telling  his  lordship  he  was 
expected  at  the  military  headquarters  —  one  of 
the  most  important  cantonments  in  India  —  and 
that  the  mess  had  prepared  a  rousing  welcome, 
hoping  to  keep  him  as  long  as  possible. 

The  Countess  having  promised  to  visit  the 
wife  of  the  English  rector,  Lady  Emily  accom- 
panied her  ladyship  to  a  very  nice  bungalow 
situated  in  pleasant  gardens  not  far  from  the 
church,  where  fruit  trees  and  violets,  in  spite  of 
a  cold,  piercing  wind,  already  showed  signs  of 
blossoming. 

Finding  the  Khyber  Pass,  leading  to  Afghan- 
istan, would  be  open  and  guarded  the  following 
day,  an  early  start  was  made,  the  Earl  and  Lady 
Emily  going  with  the  rector's  sister  and  niece  in 
a  landau  to  the  entrance  of  the  Pass,  nine  or 
ten  miles  from  Peshawar,  where  turn-turns,  or 
dog-carts  were  ordered  to  meet  them.  The  trip 
was  decidedly  exciting,  although  her  ladyship 
did  not  consider  there  was  much  real  danger. 
Still,  their  own  escort  kept  near,  and  the  sowars, 
or  armed  native  guards,  did  keep  popping  up 
every  little  way,  Lady  Emily  noticed.  On  some 

221 


222  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

of  the  routes  the  hillsmen  met,  going  through  the 
Pass,  were  exceedingly  fierce  in  appearance. 
Part  of  the  way  the  narrow  road  was  fairly 
crowded  with  camels,  bringing  in  huge  bales  of 
Kabul,  or  Bokhara  silks  and  rugs,  fruits  and 
nuts  to  dealers  in  Peshawar,  salt  and  all  sorts 
of  Manchester  goods  being  returned  in  ex- 
change. Many  travelled  to  Afghanistan  on 
foot,  apparently,  and  many  more  mounted  on 
shaggy  ponies,  or  rode  in  native  bullock  carts, 
others  riding  really  beautiful,  spirited  horses. 
About  noon  a  disused  fortress,  perched  high 
upon  the  rocky  hillside  above  the  Pass,  was 
reached.  A  small  tent  had  been  pitched  near 
here,  and  luncheon  hampers  were  soon  opened 
under  its  shelter.  While  lunching  a  string  of 
camels  stopped  by  the  wayside,  and  Lady  Emily 
begged  one  of  the  officers,  who  had  joined  the 
Earl's  party  at  the  beginning  of  the  Pass,  to 
give  the  tattered,  hungry -looking  boy  in  charge, 
some  sandwiches.  The  gentleman  consented,  but 
the  lad  would  not  accept,  he  was  positive,  fearing 
to  be  defiled  by  eating  meat  offered  by  infidels; 
and  sure  enough,  though  evidently  half  starved, 
the  little  chap  simply  wagged  his  head  most 
determinedly,  and  soon  tramped  on  behind  his 
big,  brown  charges.  After  luncheon,  all  walked 
for  a  long  look  towards  Afghanistan,  from  the 
fortress,  the  party  longing  to  go,  Lady  Emily 
declared,  and  for  themselves  see  the  strange, 
interesting  sights  in  that  little  known  country 
beyond  the  Pass. 


That  afternoon  at  Peshawar  was  spent  with 
the  Countess  and  the  rector's  wife  in  exploring 
the  bazaars  where,  from  small  shops  behind  the 
open  counters,  rolls  of  lovely  silk  were  brought 
out;  also  camel's-hair  rugs,  long  peaked  slip- 
pers of  all  hues,  and  cottons  stamped  in  a  curi- 
ous manner  with  figures  in  wax  were  also  offered 
for  sale.  Crowds  filled  every  part  of  the  bazaars. 
Most  of  the  men  had  a  war-like,  Jewish  cast  of 
countenance,  some  wearing  beards  apparently 
dyed  red,  and  hair  coloured  to  match.  These 
people  looked  so  exceedingly  fierce,  I  was  thank- 
ful the  Countess  had  the  protection  of  a  guard; 
and  Mr.  Stubbs,  too,  kept  near.  He  remarked 
that  the  military  and  police  authorities  them- 
selves acknowledge  that  it  is  next  to  impossible 
to  prevent  crimes,  such  as  plundering  and  as- 
saulting, in  these  regions.  The  wild  tradesmen 
all  protect  one  another  and  are  "  Agin  the  Gov- 
ernment," whatever  it  may  be,  as  used  to  be 
said  respecting  parts  of  Ireland;  and  once  a 
sentinel  is  wounded,  or  a  foreigner's  house  looted, 
the  rascal  who  does  it  escapes,  as  he  well  knows 
he  can,  to  mountain  fastnesses,  where  protection 
is  sure,  and  attempting  to  catch  marauders 
would  be  like  stirring  up  a  hornet's  nest.  All 
who  pursued  would  be  badly  damaged,  and  valu- 
able lives  lost,  probably,  in  fruitless  search 
among  savage  tribes,  who  recognize  neither  em- 
peror, czar  nor  amir,  as  sovereign. 

A  gymkhana  entertainment,  with  all  sorts  of 
sports,  was  given  at  the  cantonment  the  follow- 


224  TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S   MAID 

ing  day.  Lady  Emily  found  the  tent-pegging 
and  camel-racing  most  amusing;  the  big  crea- 
tures, seeming  really  to  know  what  was  expected 
of  them,  dashed  past  the  band  and  judges  at  a 
furious  pace,  as  though  enjoying  the  applause. 

By  taking  a  night  train,  we  reached  Delhi  the 
following  evening,  leaving  almost  immediately 
for  Alwar,  the  Earl  having  promised  the  British 
Resident,  in  the  Rajah's  absence,  to  spend  a  few 
hours  at  the  palace,  where  the  valuable  old  li- 
brary was  a  great  attraction.  Lady  Emily 
thought  the  armory,  the  grand  white  marble 
tank,  the  stables  and  the  elephants  fascinating; 
but  I  was  glad  not  to  stop  long  by  those  huge 
beasts,  having  that  attacking  one  at  Gwalior 
still  in  mind.  The  rooms  of  the  palace,  though 
spacious,  are  not  very  tastefully  furnished.  One 
audience  hall  hung  in  rose-velvet  draperies,  em- 
broidered in  dull  gold,  had  a  silver  table  with 
water  running  over  it  through  little  channels; 
this  I  thought  remarkably  ingenious. 

Before  returning  to  the  train,  handsome  green 
velvet  chairs,  gilded  and  swan-shaped,  were 
brought  by  the  Dewar's  command,  the  Countess 
and  Lady  Emily  having  expressed  a  wish  to 
see  some  ruins  upon  the  top  of  a  neighbouring 
hill.  Finding  the  heat  oppressive,  the  Countess 
remained  at  the  palace,  being  entertained  there 
by  the  Maharani  and  other  ladies  of  the  Mahara- 
jah's family.  I  was  directed  to  accompany  Lady 
Emily  and  the  guides.  We  were  carried  through 
delightful  gardens,  and  then,  beyond  the  mag- 


TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S   MAID  225 

nificent  marble  tank,  followed  narrow,  shaded 
paths  winding  up  the  hillside.  Before  reaching 
the  top,  flocks  of  wild  peacocks  came  out  from 
the  shrubbery,  as  if  to  greet  us,  and  blue  and 
green  paroquets  flew  from  tree  to  tree,  following 
the  bearers,  as  though  curious  to  know  what  this 
invasion  of  their  quiet  groves  could  mean. 

The  sun  was  fast  sinking  when  we  reached 
the  fortress  upon  the  highest  terrace  above 
Alwar,  consequently  Lady  Emily  did  not  long 
linger,  though  thoroughly  enjoying  the  beauti- 
ful colouring  on  the  bare  rocks,  and  viewing 
those  distant  plains  beyond  the  village.  Marble 
temples  and  tombs  were  reflected  in  the  immense 
palace  tank  lying  at  the  foot  of  the  cliffs  be- 
neath us.  On  the  way  down  to  Alwar  many 
little  offerings,  laid  upon  basket-like  trays,  were 
brought  to  her  ladyship,  —  flowers,  fruits  and 
eggs,  —  by  the  slender,  white-robed  natives  from 
whom  Lady  Emily  bought  several  small  silver 
trinkets,  very  prettily  wrought  by  hand. 


CHAPTER    XLVI 

HEARING  from  Delhi  that  the  .plague  had 
greatly  increased  in  the  vicinity  of  Bombay, 
where  hundreds  of  deaths  occurred  weekly  from 
this  dreadful  disease,  the  Earl  decided  to  give 
up  the  hunting  expedition  under  consideration, 
and  to  return  by  the  first  available  steamer  to 
Europe,  spending,  if  possible,  a  fortnight  in 
Egypt  on  the  way. 

At  Jeypore  I  heard  Mr.  Stubbs  jesting  with 
Silva  over  bringing  us  to  a  rose-coloured  town 
—  most  of  the  Maharajah's  buildings  being 
tinted  in  rose-red  shades  —  declaring  he  could 
not,  however,  consider  it  the  pink  of  perfection. 
The  genial  smile  of  that  crocodile  in  the  palace 
tank  gave  him  long-drawn-out  nightmares. 
Silva  prides  himself  on  knowing  many  English 
words,  but  when  these  are  put  together,  he  does 
not  appear  to  just  get  any  meaning  out  of  the 
language  used,  but  always  shakes  his  head  from 
side  to  side,  draws  in  his  breath,  and  says,  "  Yess, 
yess,  your  honour."  I  don't  think  he  is  capable 
of  comprehending  anything  like  English  chaff- 
ing, a  difficult  enough  matter,  even  for  those 
knowing  the  tongue. 

226 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  227 

Amber,  the  old  capital  of  Rajputana,  a  few 
miles  from  Jeypore,  is  what  specially  attracts 
travellers,  Lady  Emily  mentioned,  and  the  next 
day  would  be  spent  there.  Her  ladyship  re- 
gretted sickness  had  broken  out  that  disabled  the 
Maharajah's  elephants,  therefore  they  could  not 
be  used  for  the  trip  to  Amber,  so,  much  to  my 
relief,  we  should  not  be  again  mounted  upon 
those  monstrous  creatures.  We  drove  through 
wide,  thronged  streets,  sprinkled  by  hand,  from 
pigskins,  in  the  usual  fashion;  stopping  at  a 
museum  where  vast  numbers  of  Indian  relics 
have  been  collected,  and  passing  crowds  of  tinsel- 
attired  women  wearing  rainbow-hued  coverings, 
turbaned  men  and  Nautch  girls,  following  wed- 
ding processions,  or  drawn  in  large  bullock  carts. 
An  hour  before  reaching  the  deserted  city  of 
Amber,  palki,  —  long  covered  litter-like  boxes, 
— •  waited  by  the  wayside  for  the  Earl's  party, 
and  in  these  odd  vehicles,  carried  by  four  bear- 
ers, the  ascent  to  the  ancient  palace  was  made. 
None  seem  to  know  why  so  fair  a  place  has  been 
abandoned,  "  left  to  phantoms  and  to  ghosts," 
said  Lady  Emily.  We  mounted  broad  stone 
steps,  and  crossed  paved  courtyards,  passing 
many  fine  pierced  marble  screens,  and  through 
audience  halls  inlaid  with  large  mirrors.  When 
the  rooms  are  lighted  these  must  shine  most 
brilliantly.  After  gathering  flowers  in  a  sadly- 
neglected  garden,  tea  was  served  on  a  balcony 
overlooking  a  charming  lake. 

In  returning  to  the  pink,  plastered  streets  of 


228  TRAVELS   OF  A   LADY'S   MAID 

i 

Jeypore,  we  met  the  Maharajah's  cheetahs  out 
for  exercise  with  their  keepers.  The  leopards 
wore  funny  leather  hoods;  something  like  caps, 
upon  their  heads,  and  seemed  quite  tame,  though 
fierce  enough  once  started  after  their  prey,  it  is 
said.  Near  the  fountain  where  the  cheetahs  se- 
dately paced,  many  street  jugglers  amused  the 
passers-by,  and  grain  thrown  into  the  air  by  an 
emaciated  long-bearded  man  attracted  flocks  of 
beautiful  pigeons  that  circled  and  wheeled  about 
his  head  as  if  thanking  the  aged  man  for  their 
supper,  finally  dropping  to  the  ground  and 
gathering  every  kernel  of  corn. 

On  the  way  to  Mount  Abu,  a  breezy  place 
among  high,  barren  hills,  a  few  hours  were  spent 
at  Agmere,  where  the  temples  are  especially 
sacred.  Upon  the  lake-like  tank  near  many  fine 
ducks  swam,  diving  under  water  and  remaining 
so  long,  before  reappearing  far  from  where  they 
went  down,  it  seemed  as  if  they  could  hardly 
escape  being  suffocated. 

The  lavishly  decorated  Jain  temples  at  Mount 
Abu  are  marvellously  rich  in  jewels.  Such 
splendid  necklaces  and  ornaments  of  emeralds 
and  pearls  it  is  a  shame  to  bestow  upon  idols. 
Interesting  schools  were  visited  not  far  from  the 
temples,  where  the  English  sisters  teach  and 
help  many  poor  children.  With  the  British 
Resident  and  other  friends,  the  Countess  and 
Lady  Emily  made  a  rather  exhausting  excursion 
to  some  mountain  temples,  going  where  the  road 
became  so  stony  and  steep  it  was  impossible  to 


TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S   MAID  229 

use  the  chairs,  and  the  Countess  was  carried  on 
a  wooden  seat,  supported  between  two  coolies. 

Hearing  a  vessel  would  sail  two  days  later 
from  Bombay,  touching  at  Egypt,  the  Earl  de- 
cided to  go  directly  through  by  night  train,  in 
order  to  avoid  detention  in  a  city  where  pesti- 
lence has  caused  so  many  deaths.  After  leaving 
Mount  Abu  in  clumsy,  heavy  jinrickshaws 
drawn  by  four  bearers,  the  trip  to  Bombay  was 
hot  and  uninteresting.  At  many  stations  crowds 
of  frightened-looking  people  waited  for  trains 
in  which  to  escape  from  plague-stricken  sur- 
roundings. In  some  regions  troops  of  wild 
monkeys  enlivened  the  scene.  Whole  families, 
grandparents  and  children,  evidently  travelled 
together,  swinging  swiftly  from  tree  to  tree,  or 
running  hand  in  hand  over  the  coarse  jungle 
grass.  I  hoped  for  a  sight  of  those  huge  apes 
called  ourang-outangs ;  but  Mr.  Stubbs  believes 
them  far  too  knowing  to  leave  the  forests  where 
they  build  house-nests  for  themselves  in  the  high 
trees,  and  have  a  sort  of  intelligent  language  of 
their  own,  some  say,  in  which  they  converse. 

In  Bombay,  a  large  city  where  many  foreign- 
ers reside,  there  was  barely  time  for  the  shop- 
ping always  necessary  before  beginning  long 
voyages,  and  then  with  Lady  Emily  I  drove  to 
Kandy  Beach  and  upon  Malabar  Hill,  seeing 
those  strange  Towers  of  Silence,  guarded  by  the 
big  vultures,  patiently  awaiting  the  bodies  of 
faithful  Parsees,  whose  religious  beliefs  cause 
their  being  exposed  there,  when  death  comes, 


230  TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S   MAID 

for  the  birds  to  destroy.  Long  after  the  Tow- 
ers of  Silence  had  faded  from  sight,  Lady  Emily 
watched  the  shores  we  were  fast  leaving,  finally 
pensively  remarking,  when  the  last  glimpse  of 
land  vanished,  that  having  learned  and  enjoyed 
so  much  more  than  she  had  anticipated  in  India, 
it  was  indeed  hard  to  leave,  suddenly,  such  a 
deeply  interesting  country. 


CHAPTER   XL VII 

ME.  STUBBS  finds  considerable  entertainment 
in  watching  everything  that  happens  on  ship- 
board. "  Little  worlds  in  themselves  are  these 
big  liners,"  he  says,  and  thinks  the  P.  &  O.'s 
especially  interesting.  All  sorts  of  people  were 
travelling  homeward,  some  jarring  and  object- 
ing to  everything;  others,  foolishly  pleased  over 
being  drenched  with  salt  spray,  sniffing  in  what 
they  call  briny  sea-breezes,  even  when  the  air 
is  simply  foul  with  machinery  oil,  the  worst  of 
bad  smells,  in  his  opinion. 

The  passengers  were  all  devoted,  —  so  far  as 
she  would  permit  —  to  a  sweet  young  English 
widow,  but  a  few  weeks  ago  the  adored,  happy 
bride  of  a  gallant  officer,  who  already  had  re- 
ceived honourable  mention  for  bravery  as  cap- 
tain of  a  regiment  of  Highlanders  serving  in  the 
Punjab.  He  returned  to  England  for  their 
marriage,  and  on  the  voyage  back  to  India  sud- 
den illness  came,  undetected  heart  trouble  it 
was  thought,  though,  later,  letters  were  found 
which  showed  knowledge  of  failing  powers  and 
courage  greater  than  his  strength,  and  expressed 
anxiety,  —  should  anything  happen  to  him,  — 
for  the  future  of  his  girl  wife,  for  both  were 

231 


232  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

orphans;  her  nearest  relatives  being  cousins, 
living  in  Switzerland  for  economy.  After  hours 
of  agony  Captain  Gordon  passed  away,  con- 
scious to  the  end.  Committing  his  soul  to  God's 
keeping,  he  begged  his  wife  not  to  grieve,  tell- 
ing her  to  remember  that  from  ocean  depths 
God  would  bring  them  together  again,  rejoicing. 
Merciful  unconsciousness  spared  her  all  knowl- 
edge of  the  last  rites  when,  wrapped  in  the  flag, 
her  husband's  body  was  lowered  over  the  vessel's 
side  at  sunset,  and,  until  leaving  the  steamship 
at  Bombay,  alone,  the  young  wife,  though  re- 
peating half-unconsciously,  over  and  over, 
'The  sea  shall  give  up  her  dead,"  was  too 
stunned  to  realize  the  desolating  changes  that 
had  come. 

"  Truly  sorrow  has  crowned  a  young  life,"  the 
Countess  said,  when  the  broken-hearted  girl, 
whose  earnest  gray  eyes  still  seemed  watching 
for  him  to  whom  her  whole  existence  had  been 
given,  was  placed  by  the  Metropolitan  of  India 
under  her  ladyship's  protection  for  the  voyage 
to  England. 

Always  there  must  be  a  mascot,  or  ship's  pet, 
on  long  voyages,  Mr.  Stubbs  declares;  and  cer- 
tainly Miss  Daisy  was  held  to  be  this,  by  every- 
body. She  was  a  sturdy,  happy  child,  not  yet  old 
enough  to  understand  the  loneliness  of  her 
father,  a  desolate-appearing  major,  deserted  by 
his  heartless,  shallow  wife,  one  of  those  gay 
Simla  ladies,  who,  after  three  years  of  discon- 
tented married  life,  eloped  with  a  man  as  heart- 


lessly  selfish  as  herself.  The  little  girl,  cling- 
ing lovingly  to  her  father  or  the  faithful  Indian 
nurse,  prattled  joyfully  of  her  dolls,  or  talked 
of  a  cage  of  tame  budjenegas  she  was  taking 
to  her  aunt;  fortunately  seeming  never  to  miss 
the  mother,  who  had  considered  the  innocent 
child  an  intolerable  burden. 

Late  one  afternoon,  when  most  on  board  were 
resting  or  dressing  for  dinner,  Mr.  Stubbs  went 
on  deck  to  fetch  a  lot  of  books  left  there  by  the 
Earl,  and  found  the  small  lady  had  captured  a 
very  haughty,  lofty-appearing  Mrs.  Mynvet,  the 
wife  of  an  American  millionaire,  Mr.  Stubbs 
learned  from  her  travelling  servant,  and  daugh- 
ter of  revolutionary  parents,  some  thought,  ab- 
horring everything  British,  disliking  children 
and  opposed  to  the  President's  views.  This  lady, 
a  black  lace  scarf  covering  her  high  gray  pom- 
padour, and  holding  a  jewelled  lorgnon  before 
her  extremely  sharp  eyes,  had  been  persuaded 
by  Miss  Daisy  to  drink  make-believe  doll's  tea 
with  her. 

Seated  in  a  big  deck  chair  by  Mrs.  Mynvet's 
side,  and  holding  a  cup  like  a  thimble,  was  that 
very  youthful  curate,  travelling  on  account  of 
a  weak  throat.  He  seemed  always  to  be  repeat- 
ing to  himself,  "  Reprove,  rebuke,  exhort! " 
Standing  near,  also  holding  a  tiny  cup  and 
saucer,  in  a  helpless,  protesting  fashion,  was  a 
pale,  gaunt  French  priest,  wearing  a  broad- 
brimmed  large  black  beaver  hat.  His  earnest, 
worn  face  and  grizzled  hair  told  of  hard  work 


and  recent  illness ;  never  before  had  he  been  seen 
speaking  with  any  one.  A  huge  rag-baby  pre- 
sided at  one  end  of  the  toy  table,  in  front  of 
which  the  child's  low  seat  had  been  placed;  hud- 
dled on  the  deck  behind,  wrapped  in  her  white 
head  covering,  crouched  the  brown-hued,  soft- 
eyed  ayah,  who  watched  with  beseeching,  wistful 
glances  each  motion  of  her  golden-haired,  im- 
perious little  mistress. 

As  soon  as  Mr.  Stubbs  appeared,  waving 
toward  him  an  inch-high  teapot,  Miss  Daisy 
called  loudly  in  her  enticing  child's  voice, 
"  Come,  please  have  a  cup  of  tea  wiff  Daisy, 
you  very  nice  man;  Daisy  like  ou  ver  much." 

He  had  greatest  difficulty  in  excusing  himself, 
getting  away  from  the  company  with  his  arms 
full  of  books  and  cushions,  feeling,  too,  most  un- 
comfortable to  seem  to  disappoint  the  dear  little 
lady  he  was  always  more  than  willing  to  oblige. 
As  Mr.  Stubbs  disappeared  down  the  companion- 
way,  he  heard  Miss  Daisy  entreating  one  of  the 
sailors,  a  Lascar  in  bare  feet,  to  join  the  party. 

Sending  fake  telegrams  is  a  favourite  amuse- 
ment on  deck  among  the  young  people,  and 
those  older  make  quite  a  serious  game  out  of  it, 
looking  up  the  names  of  such  Indian  places  as 
they  have  visited,  in  order  to  get  them  into  the 
messages.  No  two  people  appear  to  pronounce 
the  Hindustanee  words  in  just  the  same  way, 
Lady  Emily  declares,  and  are  always  disagree- 
ing or  discussing  —  sometimes  not  without  tem- 
per—  how  they  should  be  spelled,  or  where 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  235 

accents  must  be  placed.  Her  ladyship  thinks 
that  having  little  else  to  do  accounts  for  their 
eagerness  to  prove  themselves  right  in  the  pro- 
nunciation each  prefers.  Three  times  she  has 
changed  Baddulla,  ba-  bad-  baddu,  to  suit  dif- 
ferent authorities,  and  now,  notwithstanding  all 
protestations,  intends  going  back  to  the  way  she 
fancied  right  when  she  first  saw  the  place. 

Charades,  scenes  from  "  Kim,"  and  a  very 
amusing  little  play  called  '  The  Memsahib's 
Cheetah,"  were  given  by  the  passengers,  and  a 
song  sung  in  a' droll  rollicking  manner  by  one  of 
the  officers,  a  dapper,  no  longer  youthful  gen- 
tleman, returning  from  special  duty  in  Japan, 
had  great  success:  the  refrain  goes: 

"  I  am  a  Jap,  Jap,  Jappy  young  man, 

I  copy  them  all  I  can, 
Their  arts  and  their  ways, 

Their  pranks  and  their  plays, 
We  follow  them  when  we  can." 

Many  constantly  demanded  "  Tommy  At- 
kins "  or  "  The  Little  Tin  Soldier."  Both  Mr. 
Stubbs  and  I  preferred  these  to  that  one  fre- 
quently sung  in  a  coquettish  manner  by  a  portly, 
gypsy-appearing  person,  ordinarily  very  sedate 
and  settled: 

"  Tho'  thou  my  love  betray eth 
I  fain  would  hover  near  thee." 

The  dining-saloon  stewards  are  fairly  mad- 
dened by  the  way  they  are  harried  and  worried 


236  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

over  the  punkahs;  passengers  on  one  side  of  the 
table  requesting  they  shall  be  stopped  on  account 
of  too  much  wind,  —  a  perfect  hurricane,  they 
call  it.  As  some  have  bald  heads  it  must  be  very 
annoying.  Those  on  the  other  side  say  they  shall 
be  compelled  to  go  without  meals,  if  they  are  left 
to  gasp  in  such  a  temperature,  without  any  breeze 
whatever.  They  actually  glare  at  one  another, 
expostulating  and  giving  dreadful  abuse  in  a 
polite  manner,  one  red-faced  gentleman  going 
the  length  of  denouncing  a  couple  of  lean,  neu- 
ralgic ladies  opposite  him,  touring  the  world 
alone,  as  malicious  mummies,  owing  to  their 
tipping  a  steward  to  turn  off  the  punkahs  en- 
tirely. 

Some  enjoy  piano  music  in  the  deck  saloon; 
others  go  out,  slamming  doors  violently,  when- 
ever music  is  mentioned.  All  agree  in  praising 
the  captain,  a  quiet,  reserved  gentleman,  fond 
of  sketching,  who  seldom  mingles  with  the  pas- 
sengers; but  they  complain  of  almost  every- 
body else,  including  the  steamship  company, 
their  agents,  the  quarters  assigned,  and  their 
treatment  in  general.  Mr.  Stubbs  considers  the 
majority  get  far  more  comfort  out  of  iced  drinks 
and  dishes  than  from  one  another's  company  or 
the  thought  of  returning  home. 

One  night,  after  a  dance  on  deck,  Lady  Emily 
came  to  the  cabin,  telling  me  she  would  change 
the  white  taffeta  and  Irish  lace  gown  her  lady- 
ship was  wearing  for  a  short  skirt.  A  Swedish 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  237 

astronomer  attached  to  some  scientific  expedition 
had  promised  to  explain  the  constellations,  should 
the  night  continue  cloudless;  if  they  would  go 
to  the  ship's  bow,  he  added,  he  could  point  out 
the  Southern  Cross,  stars  the  Earl  had  seen  on 
an  earlier  voyage,  and  her  ladyship  longed  to 
see.  Wondrous  things  in  the  heavens  were 
shown  through  a  small  telescope,  and  even  an 
ordinary  opera-glass  helped  in  identifying  the 
more  glowing  stars,  and  in  placing  constellations, 
her  ladyship  remarked  later.  The  astronomer 
thought  it  by  no  means  impossible  that  in  ages 
to  come,  these  throbbing  planets  differing  from 
one  another  in  size  and  glory,  may  be  investi- 
gated by  means  of  air  ships. 

From  the  Indian  Ocean  we  entered  the  Red 
Sea,  many  on  board  being  decidedly  disap- 
pointed that  no  landing  could  be  made  at  Aden. 
Our  vessel  having  come  from  an  infected  port, 
passengers  would  be  obliged  to  remain  in  quar- 
antine for  several  days  before  entering  the  town. 
An  English  lady,  on  her  way  home  from  Ne- 
paul,  had  long  counted  on  spending  the  twelve 
hours  in  port  with  a  married  daughter,  living 
there,  but  could  not  go  to  her;  and  if  the  daugh- 
ter came  on  board  it  would  mean  being  quaran- 
tined on  returning  to  Aden,  as  though  she,  her- 
self, had  come  from  Bombay;  so,  instead  of  kiss- 
ing the  new  grandchild,  the  little  fellow  was  held 
up,  struggling  and  kicking,  in  his  father's  arms, 
to  be  "  kodaked,"  his  parents  later  sailing  around 


238  TRAVELS   OF  A   LADY'S   MAID 

and  around  the  ship,  shouting  greetings,  and 
receiving  messages  and  gifts  from  the  grand- 
mother on  deck. 

One  Sunday  morning,  while  waiting  outside 
Lady  Emily's  cabin,  the  pleasantest  mannered 
old  Scotch  lady  spoke  to  me.  Her  face  was  not 
even  elderly,  but  fair  and  frank  as  a  child's, 
the  snowy  hair  being  smoothed  back  in  the  way 
her  late  Majesty  always  wore  it.  Mrs.  Fraser 
-for  that  was  her  name  —  handed  me  a  small 
book,  the  Psalms  of  David,  saying,  in  a  kindly 
way,  "  I  am  glad  to  ken  a  country  woman  of 
my  own  is  on  board."  She  then  told  me,  to 
every  native  in  India  the  Prayer  Union,  to  which 
she  belongs,  hopes  to  give  at  least  some  part  of 
the  Scriptures,  believing  God's  spirit  leads  minds 
seeking  light  to  comprehend  that  His  kingdom 
is  within. 

Mrs.  Fraser  had  been  visiting  her  nephew,  a 
medical  missionary  in  Burmah,  and  was  on  her 
way  to  Morocco,  where  a  niece  is  serving  as 
trained  nurse  in  a  missionary  hospital.  She  won- 
dered if  I  knew  we  should  soon  pass  near  Mt. 
Sinai,  though  uncertain  whether  the  mountain 
was  actually  visible  from  the  Red  Sea.  To  be 
near  so  many  of  the  ancient  places  mentioned  in 
the  Bible  thrills  one. 

The  day  proving  intensely  hot,  the  Captain 
feared  it  might  be  necessary  to  reverse  the  en- 
gines in  order  to  give  sufficient  air  in  the  engine 
room,  but  a  light  breeze  came  up  before  sunset. 
As  I  was  leaving  Mrs.  Gordon's  cabin  in  the 


TRAVELS   OF  A   LADY'S   MAID  239 

evening,  —  for  sometimes  the  stewardess  per- 
mitted me  to  do  some  little  service  for  that  dear 
lady  —  I  heard  Mrs.  Fraser,  who  was  often 
there,  reading  aloud  pleasant  books  about  birds 
and  flowers,  singing  softly  one  of  those  quiet 
old  psalms  I  had  not  heard  sung  since  faraway 
days  of  childhood  in  Scotland;  and  then  she 
said, 

"  I  am  a  lone  woman,  child,  all  have  gone 
before.  Long  ago  the  dear  Lord  led  them  to 
His  better  country.  You  must  bide  a  wee  with 
me  in  Aberdeen ;  we  will  cheer  one  another  when 
shadows  fall."  There  was  no  reply,  but  that 
warm  hand-clasp,  and  the  only  real  smile  I  had 
seen  on  the  wan  face  meant  a  grateful  heart,  I 
am  sure. 

The  day  before  reaching  Suez,  we  passed  a 
troop  ship,  outward  bound  for  India.  How 
those  brave  boys,  manning  the  rigging  and 
crowding  the  forward  decks,  did  cheer  while 
flags  were  dipped  and  handkerchiefs  waved  1  To 
think  but  few,  probably,  would  ever  return  to 
their  own  land  made  my  heart  ache,  longing  for 
the  time  when  wars  shall  cease. 

The  following  day  we  overtook  a  slow,  rolling 
vessel,  filled  high  above  the  sea  with  cages,  and 
Mr.  Stubbs  ascertained  it  was  a  menagerie  ship, 
bound  for  some  famous  dealer  in  Germany.  The 
owners  had  been  collecting  wild  beasts  for 
months,  through  Africa,  Arabia  and  India.  Mr. 
Stubbs  thinks  they  must  have  captured  most  of 
the  serpents  and  tigers ;  for  though  before  going 


240  TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S   MAID 

to  India  he  had  felt  rather  alarmed  about  boa- 
constrictors,  lions  and  the  like,  he  never  saw  a 
tiger  uncaged,  nor  a  cobra  out  of  a  tamer's  keep- 
ing. The  first  night  in  a  dak  bungalow,  he 
did  hear  what  he  feared  must  be  a  large  snake, 
moving  stealthily  about,  but  found  when  he  man- 
aged to  strike  a  match,  it  was  a  toad  hopping 
up  against  the  wire-screened  window,  trying  to 
escape. 

At  Suez  the  Earl  decided  to  disembark,  and 
go  by  rail  to  Cairo  instead  of  keeping  with  the 
vessel  through  the  canal.  That  morning  I  heard 
the  curate  telling  the  lady  from  Nepaul  that  he 
had  seen  the  sun  set  over  Africa,  and  rise  over 
Asia.  The  pale,  thin-locked,  wrinkled  man 
standing  near,  —  a  philosopher  he  styles  him- 
self, —  known  on  shipboard  as  the  "  dream  gen- 
tleman," because  of  his  fondness  for  interpreting 
his  dreams  to  any  one  who  will  listen,  remarked, 
— "  This  may  be  prophetic  of  coming  events, 
young  friend.  Before  you  long  life  stretches, 
the  wood  for  your  coffin  is  still  growing,  years 
ago  mine  was  felled  from  the  forest  and  awaits 
me.  Study  the  stars,  and  your  night  visions; 
who  knows  which  is  the  true  life?  Many  find 
happiness  only  in  what  are  called  dreams! " 

We  reached  Cairo  late  in  the  evening,  going 
directly  to  that  large  hotel,  surrounded  by  ex- 
tensive grounds,  and  formerly  a  palace,  where 
spacious  apartments  had  been  reserved  for  the 
Earl.  The  River  Nile  flows  beneath  the  fine 
bridge  crossed  in  reaching  the  hotel. 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  241 

Busy  days  followed,  the  Countess  and  Lady 
Emily  paying  visits  and  making  many  excur- 
sions; while  his  lordship  was  repeatedly  sent  for 
by  that  Earl  who  helps  the  Khedive  in  govern- 
ing Egypt,  consenting  one  evening  to  deliver 
an  address  —  "an  informal  talk,"  according  to 
Mr.  Stubbs  —  at  this  gentleman's  residence,  and 
no  reporting  permitted.  Great  Britain's  foreign 
policy  was  reviewed,  his  lordship  declaring  there 
must  be  no  wavering  nor  uncertainty  over 
boundary  lines,  and  a  clear  understanding  with 
minor  powers  regarding  the  disposal  of  territory. 

A  very  delightful  expedition,  Lady  Emily 
thought,  the  one  made  with  a  party  of  ladies  and 
gentlemen  to  the  Sphinx,  and  large  pyramids, 
an  afternoon's  drive  from  Cairo.  After  seeing 
some  sports  at  a  club  beyond  the  golf  links, 
camels  were  mounted  for  the  short  ride  to  the 
Pyramids.  Lady  Emily  had  considered  much 
written  regarding  one's  sensations  in  riding 
camels  as  absurd  exaggeration,  but  believed  these 
descriptions  fell  far  short  of  the  truth,  when  her 
own  big  brown  beast,  kneeling  until  she  was  in 
the  saddle,  jerked  out  each  leg  separately,  and 
jolted  himself  into  an  upright  position.  Some- 
thing gave  way  in  his  back,  as  well  as  in  her 
own,  her  ladyship  feared,  when  he  finally  arose 
from  the  sands,  and  plunged  toward  the  Sphinx. 
Two  or  three  natives,  Bedouins  of  the  desert, 
push  and  pull,  —  insisting  they  are  helping 
travellers  wishing  to  climb  to  the  top  of  those 
immense  stone  blocks  forming  the  great  pyra- 


242  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

mid.  Lady  Emily's  arms  ached  for  days  after 
this  experience;  though  seeing  that  deep  red 
sunset  glow  over  the  sands,  and  upon  that  won- 
derful Sphinx  itself,  well  repaid  for  all  fatigue, 
and  the  moonlight  drive  back  to  Cairo  her  lady- 
ship greatly  enjoyed. 


CHAPTER   XLVIII 

WHILE  waiting  the  following  morning  in  a 
victoria,  near  the  hotel  entrance,  ready  to  start 
on  an  excursion,  arranged  for  that  day,  to  those 
smaller  pyramids  and  tombs  not  far  from  Mem- 
phis, a  note  was  handed  Lady  Emily.  Urgent 
official  business,  the  Earl  wrote,  obliged  an  im- 
mediate interview  with  the  Khedive,  and  rinding 
neither  interview  nor  excursion  could  be  post- 
poned he  desired  her  ladyship  should  make  the 
trip  accompanied  by  Stubbs  and  me,  with  Maha- 
mud  the  guide. 

This  message  was  brought  by  a  stranger  who 
explained  that  he  was  Achmud,  Mahamud's 
youngest  brother,  and  that  the  latter,  hurrying 
from  Cook's  office  with  the  tickets,  had  heed- 
lessly pushed  against  a  donkey  standing  in  front 
of  Shepheard's  hotel  and  been  viciously  kicked 
by  the  brute,  his  wrist  being  completely  disabled 
and  his  ribs  very  painful.  Stepping  back  to 
Cook's  he  found  Achmud,  who  was  employed 
there,  —  though  not  as  regular  dragoman,  how- 
ever, —  and  told  him  to  run  with  the  note  and 
tickets,  and  when  the  circumstances  were  ex- 
plained to  the  Earl  he  felt  sure  Achmud  would 

243 


244  TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S   MAID 

be  permitted  to  replace  Mahamud  for  that  after- 
noon. 

Though  hesitating  about  leaving  without 
Mahamud,  as  there  was  barely  time  to  catch  the 
boat,  Lady  Emily  wrote  a  line  to  the  Countess, 
who  was  resting  after  an  exhausting  morning 
with  mummies  and  other  treasures  at  the  Gizeh 
Museum,  and  instructed  the  Syce,  —  who  always 
runs  before  the  Earl's  carriage  in  Cairo,  —  a 
slim,  white-garbed  young  fellow  girded  about 
his  waist  with  a  wide,  many-coloured  silk  sash, 
to  see  that  the  note  reached  the  Countess  in  an 
hour. 

Although  not  long  past  midday,  a  delight- 
fully cool  breeze  blew  over  the  Nile,  the  wind 
so  strong  that,  owing  to  my  failing  to  securely 
fasten  Lady  Emily's  veil,  it  was  carried  off, 
sinking  immediately  into  the  river,  and  along 
with  it,  I  am  sorry  to  say,  that  much  prized  pearl 
pin,  a  Christmas  gift  at  Calcutta.  Mr.  Stubbs 
placed  chairs  well  forward  on  deck,  and  the  river 
trip  seemed  very  short.  We  passed  a  small 
island,  and  on  it,  or  among  the  reeds  and  bul- 
rushes near,  the  infant  Moses  had  been  found 
by  Pharaoh's  daughter,  Lady  Emily  has  been 
told. 

In  landing  at  our  destination,  Lady  Emily 
was  the  last  to  leave  the  boat,  and,  as  she  stepped 
ashore,  the  dust  ruffle  on  her  ladyship's  skirt 
caught  on  a  nail,  tearing  away  yards  of  fawn 
silk,  and  loosening  the  upper  flounce.  Pinning 
seemed  useless,  although  Mr.  Stubbs  handed  me 


two  or  three  strong  pins  always  carried  by  him 
under  his  coat  collar,  so  her  ladyship  said  she 
would  sit  under  some  date  palm  trees  on  the 
bank  near  the  landing,  and  when  the  other  pas- 
sengers —  there  were  not  many  on  the  boat,  and 
these  were  busy  selecting  donkeys  —  left,  I  could 
get  out  my  pocket  sewing  case,  and  put  a  few 
stitches  in  the  torn  flounce. 

The  repairs  were  soon  finished,  and  Achmud 
then  brought  three  donkeys;  one,  a  rather  fierce 
looking,  large,  whitish  animal,  Lady  Emily 
chose;  a  smaller  donkey  for  Mr.  Stubbs,  and 
a  quite  meek-looking  one,  I  was  rejoiced  to  see, 
led  up  for  me.  Each  donkey  had  a  boy  at  its 
head;  alert,  clever  little  brown  chaps  they  are, 
their  thin,  lithe  bodies  clad  mostly  in  dull  blue 
cotton  shirts.  We  went  slowly,  so  I  felt  little 
alarm. 

After  passing  many  partly  veiled  women, 
walking  single  file,  and  balancing  on  their  heads 
large  earthen  water-pots,  we  came  to  some  huge 
stone  figures  lying  prostrate  on  the  ground,  and 
going  a  mile  or  more  farther  over  the  desert 
sands  beyond,  we  reached  several  small  pyra- 
mids and  tombs.  A  few  workmen  —  Egyptians 
—  were  digging  in  the  sands  and  wheeling  bar- 
rows; but  the  tourists  from  the  Cairo  boat  had 
disappeared.  Achmud  advised  keeping  to  the 
right  of  the  diggers;  but  Mr.  Stubbs,  seeing  an 
opening,  or  entrance  into  the  sand  at  the  left, 
felt  very  sure  it  led  inside  the  pyramid  where 
Lady  Emily  wished  to  go.  Accordingly,  as 


246  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

Achmud  had  not  been  to  the  place  since  recent 
excavations  had  changed  the  surroundings,  her 
ladyship  decided  to  keep  to  the  left  and  entered 
a  passage  cut  into  the  sand  bank.  For  some 
distance  standing  upright  was  possible,  then  the 
path  began  descending;  one  had  to  stoop,  and 
finally  the  tunnel  became  so  low  and  narrow, 
getting  on  hands  and  knees  was  necessary. 

Lady  Emily  concluded  to  go  on,  however,  a 
glimmering  light  being  seen  ahead,  and  turning 
seemed  quite  out  of  the  question.  We  crawled 
seventy  feet  further  perhaps,  when  suddenly  all 
before  us  became  absolutely  black.  Had  our 
eyes  failed,  or  was  there  a  massive  something 
approaching  in  front,  breathing  hard  and  gasp- 
ing? A  moment  later  we  heard  voices,  and  then 
Lady  Emily  called,  "  Don't  move,  please,"  and 
that  same  second,  from  behind,  Mr.  Stubbs  ex- 
claimed, "  Move  on,  keep  moving,  please,"  quite 
in  the  tones  of  a  London  policeman.  Some  one 
then  demanded,  "  Why  don't  you  obey  the  signs? 
Go  back!"  And  shrill  voices  together  cried, 
"Halt,  halt!  bitte!  Ach,  ach,  ja,  ja!"  "Im- 
possible! Let  the  ladies  pass  out  first!"  came 
excitedly  from  the  rear.  Finally  a  man's  voice 
from  the  other  side  shouted,  "  You  have  no  right 
to  come  this  way,  and  must  go  back."  So, 
though  Achmud,  who  could  neither  see  nor  un- 
derstand what  was  going  on,  continued  screech- 
ing, "  Back,  back,  go  back !  "  Lady  Emily  re- 
plied, "  Turning  is  impossible.  You  must  wait 
where  you  are  until  we  can  get  out."  In  crab 


TRAVELS   OF  A   LADY'S  MAID  247 

fashion,  but  very  slowly,  on  our  knees  we  backed 
to  where  walking  was  possible,  and  on  reaching 
daylight  I  saw  Lady  Emily  could  never  again 
wear  that  beige  foulard,  it  was  that  frayed,  be- 
draggled, and  torn  from  the  band  in  front;  and 
her  ladyship's  gloves  were  cut  into  holes  by  the 
gravel. 

Quietly  handing  me  his  pocket  brush,  Mr. 
Stubbs  slipped  off  with  Achmud  —  who  was  half 
whimpering  and  upbraiding  —  to  look  for  the 
sign.  Sure  enough  it  was  there,  telling  travel- 
lers, in  three  languages,  that  entrance  was  for- 
bidden; but  the  board  on  which  the  notice  was 
posted  had  been  blown  or  thrown  over  upon  its 
face  in  the  sand.  Achmud  did  look  crestfallen, 
though  wanting  to  blame  Mr.  Stubbs  for  coun- 
selling keeping  to  the  left;  and  Mr.  Stubbs,  too, 
had  anything  but  a  happy  expression,  his  face 
purple,  his  collar  almost  gone,  and  his  tie  awry. 

Presently  an  extremely  corpulent  lady,  pant- 
ing and  shaking  off  dust,  as  she  came  out  from 
the  sandhill  —  for  that  is  what  it  was,  under  a 
corner  of  the  pyramid,  but  not  a  pyramid  at  all 
—  began  speaking  reproachfully  in  German. 

The  ancients,  it  appears,  fearing  that  the 
burial  places  of  their  rulers  might  be  molested, 
contrived  false  tomb  chambers,  or  mask  walls, 
to  mislead.  The  directors  of  these  excavations, 
finding  one  of  those  masked  places,  left  it  as 
discovered,  thinking  it  of  interest  to  the  public. 
From  one  side  the  passage  was  fairly  easy,  until 
passing  the  false  tomb  about  the  middle;  the 


248  TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S   MAID 

walls  there  having  been  slightly  pierced,  light 
penetrated.  At  this  point,  the  guides  usually 
advise  travellers  to  return  the  same  way,  unless 
exceptionally  slender  and  active.  The  Arabs, 
moreover,  having  long  ago  been  misled  by  the 
mask  wall,  had  tunnelled  from  the  other  end, 
hoping  to  get  the  treasures  they  supposed  hidden 
in  the  tomb.  The  excavators  left  this  cutting 
also,  so  those  interested  might  see  how  the  at- 
tempt had  been  made,  and  the  notice  at  the 
mouth  of  the  tunnel  prevented  entering,  of 
course,  —  as  the  regular  guides  knew,  —  from 
that  side  to  the  passage  and  false  tomb. 

Following  the  stout,  angered  German  lady, 
came  a  tall,  shuffling,  rather  loosely-put-to- 
gether, sullen-featured  boy.  His  hair  stood 
straight  up  from  his  forehead,  a  big  solar-tope 
surrounding  the  back  of  his  head  like  a  halo. 
Behind  him  appeared  a  shy -mannered  girl,  wear- 
ing blue  glasses;  long  braids  of  fair  hair  hang- 
ing at  the  back.  Coughing  and  choking  from 
the  dust,  she  stooped  to  pick  up  a  big  ornamental 
button,  burst  from  her  mother's  attire  during 
violent  sneezing.  Next  her,  a  middle-aged  lady 
emerged  from  the  opening.  She  was  pale  and 
exhausted,  seeming  delicate  in  health.  Her  blue 
velvet  bonnet  was  wreathed  with  humming  birds. 
I  noticed  this  the  first  thing,  as  the  Countess 
and  Lady  Emily  permit  nothing  of  the  sort  on 
their  hats.  Fairly  scrambling  behind  the  fragile, 
fatigued  lady,  came  a  short,  thick-set  gentleman, 
round,  protruding  eyes  rolling  under  a  brown 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  249 

bowler  hat  pushed  well  back  from  his  perspiring 
forehead.  Advancing  directly  towards  Lady 
Emily,  dusting  his  boots  with  his  handkerchief, 
he  held  out  a  card,  saying,  —  the  voice  I  recog- 
nized as  the  one  that  shouted  "  Let  the  ladies 
out  first,"  when  nobody  in  the  tunnel  could 
move,  —  "  My  name  is  Bangser,  Philadelphia, 
U.  S.  A.,  at  your  service."  This  introduction 
sounded  like  a  challenge  to  a  duel,  Lady  Emily 
later  told  the  Countess;  and  thanking  him,  her 
ladyship  pointed  to  the  notice  that  Achmud  was 
then  trying  to  set  up  again,  saying,  its  having 
fallen  face  downward  in  the  sand  must  be  the 
excuse  for  having  gone  into  the  passage  by  a 
forbidden  entrance. 

The  gentleman  replied,  "  That's  all  right, 
don't  mention  it;  accidents  will  happen,  you 
know." 

Lady  Emily,  I  could  see,  hoped  the  tourists 
would  then  move  on,  but  Mr.  Bangser  came 
nearer,  pressing  together  his  lips,  and  in  lower 
tones  continued,  — "  That  German  lady  is  an 
extinguisher,  isn't  she?  Never  saw  her  until 
this  afternoon.  She  talks  English  most  as  well 
as  we  do  and  says  she  was  born  in  Pennsylvania, 
just  across  the  river  from  us.  The  boy  looks  a 
leetle  unbalanced,  don't  he?  "  Continuing  with- 
out waiting  for  response,  "  Presume  you're  new- 
comers in  Egypt.  We  have  been  here  nearly 
three  weeks;  seen  pretty  much  everything  worth 
seeing  up  to  Philae,  and  back ;  done  a  good  deal 
of  shopping,  too,  not  bothering  much  with 


250  TRAVELS   OF  A   LADY'S   MAID 

guides,  either.  We  are  fixing  over  our  place  at 
Weischigen  Mounts.  Nothing  like  it  in  that 
section  when  finished,  I  can  tell  you.  Our  son 
Herbie's  the  smartest  boy  in  the  Schigens  High 
School;  stands  head  in  everything;  sets  there 
just  hauling  in  prizes,  and  when  it  comes  time 
for  him  to  heir  my  property  I  propose  he  shall 
have  something  worth  talking  about.  I  ain't 
sparing  funds  needed  on  account  of  decorations; 
some  of  our  frescoes  by  first-class  Philadelphia 
artists,  I  am  told,  —  we  haven't  been  in  Rome 
yet,  —  beat  the  old  masters  hollow.  Before  wife 
and  me  caught  on  serious  to  this  mummy  business 
our  dragerman  —  that  biggest  fellow  you  see 
selling  his  photos,  sometimes  about  the  hotel 
doors,  but  oftener  near  the  Cairo  bridge  where, 
he  says,  the  air  reminds  him  of  his  native  desert, 
-  well,  he  simply  despises  those  interfering  gold- 
banded  hotel  porters,  and  says  beware  of  them 
and  everything  they  recommend,  offering,  him- 
self, to  advise  tourists  about  reliable  antiques; 
this  not  being  his  regular  profession  he  don't 
think  it  right  to  charge,  however. 

"  A  true  child  of  the  desert,  Shakba  declares 
he  is;  but  knows  at  a  glance,  he  says,  whether 
people  are  the  right  sort;  and  those  capable  of 
appreciating  antiques  he  can  tell  the  instant  he 
sees  them.  Observing  how  anxious  we  were  to 
secure  a  few  real  specimens  Shakba  just  hinted, 
at  first,  that  he  might  induce  his  aged  uncle,  a 
Bedouin  Sheik,  sort  of  lawyer,  or  judge,  this 
means  one  trusted  absolutely  by  everybody  hav- 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  251 

ing  dealings  with  this  old  party,  to  part  with  — 
provided  we  pledged  ourselves  to  keep  the  trans- 
action private  —  one  of  the  most  authentic  Amen 
Ra  samples,  come  at  perfectly  regular  by  the 
Sheik  in  a  little  confidential  trading;  but  the 
smallest  joints,  even,  such  as  toes  or  vertebre 
we  soon  found  were  held  at  museum  specimen 
figures,  '  too  extravagant  for  us  now  with  a 
depressed  money  market  and  stocks  flighty,' 
Mrs.  B.  says.  We  did  buy,  however,  a  dozen 
tomb  necklaces,  scarabs,  and  lots  of  those  blue 
idols,  pretty  white  inside,  though,  for  ancients, 
if  you  crack  'em  open.  Now  we  are  negotiating 
for  a  couple  of  mummies,  and  I've  my  eye  on  a 
sacred  bull,  too.  The  mummies  look  like  the 
real  thing.  One's  a  thousand  years  old,  if  it's 
a  day;  the  other,  smaller,  shorter  and  more 
shrivelled,  from  the  price  ought  to  belong  to  an 
earlier  dynasty,  but  wife  suspicions  chemicals; 
says,  '  Silas,  you  may  believe  me  or  not,  but 
depend  on  it,  that  smallest,  most  shrunken  one 
was  stirring  about  above  ground  on  our  wedding 
day! '  Short  of  thirteen  years  ago,  that  is.  I'd 
have  scruples  over  anything  so  recent  as  that; 
but  when  you  get  to  four  figures,  it  does  seem 
to  make  a  difference." 

Lady  Emily  appeared  decidedly  uncertain 
what  to  reply  to  all  this,  and  the  German  lady, 
having  now  finished  straightening  her  daughter's 
hat,  and  shaking  sand  out  of  their  shoes,  came 
nearer,  remarking  in  a  general  way  and  speak- 
ing English  easily,  "  I  don't  like  Egypt,  it  is  too 


hot,  and  the  eating  is  so  poor,  but  my  children 
persuaded  me  to  come,  just  as  I  was  beginning 
spring  house-cleaning.  Husband  is  home,  the 
head  of  a  wholesale  sausage  house  in  Hamburg, 
but  worse  than  useless  for  cleaning;  forgets 
most  everything  but  to  eat  his  meals.  Karl 
there,  he's  just  turned  fourteen,  you  never  would 
believe  from  his  size,  though,  that  he  wasn't 
years  older,  his  hair  has  stood  up  that  way  ever 
since  he  got  his  second  teeth;  outgrew  his 
strength;  he's  studying  to  be  a  cornetist,  if  his 
father  will  forgive  his  not  carrying  on  the  Ham- 
burger business;  and  did  also  get  into  a  little 
trouble  with  the  police  —  nothing  serious  accord- 
to  my  views  (having  been  born  in  America  and 
only  coming  to  the  f  aderland  to  marry  my  hus- 
band) ;  but  Karl,  he  got  overheard  declaring 
the  motif  of  the  Kaiser's  opera  all  wrong,  and 
that  had  it  been  written  by  plain  Wilhelm 
Kaiser,  instead  of  Kaiser  Wilhelm,  it  never 
would  have  seen  the  Berlin  boards.  My  lawyer 
said,  '  Better  take  him  away,  Frau  Schneider, 
or  you  will  have  "  lese-majeste "  upon  you, 
before  you  know  it.'  You  are  liable  to  that  most 
anywhere  in  Germany,  you  know.  Many  times 
have  I  been  homesick  for  Hamburg,  since  we 
started  in  seeing  all  these  ancient  tombs." 

Mr.  Bangser  nodded  in  a  sympathizing  way, 
and  then  added,  "  You  never  can  tell  what  po- 
tentates and  paladines  will  do  if  they  get  a 
chance;  our  senators  and  congressmen  are 
cranky  enough,  without  referring  to  ward  poli- 


TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S   MAID  253 

ticians  or  all  those  regular  bosses  in  every  de- 
partment, but  kaisers  and  czars  must  be  worse. 
I  guess  we  will  get  along  well  enough  without 
them  in  our  country,  if  we  steer  clear  of  foreign 
entanglements,  and  some  of  the  broils  you  would 
not  be  sorry  to  have  us  mix  up  in.  A  friend  of 
mine,  paymaster  in  the  navy,  and  just  from  Con- 
stantinople, tells  me  that  Sultan  there  fears  to 
go  to  bed,  and  is  afraid  to  get  up  on  account  of 
assassins.  He  stopped  a  lot  of  Saint  Paul's 
Epistles,  the  other  day,  from  getting  to  the  mis- 
sionaries, because  of  that  one  beginning,  *  O, 
foolish  Galatians,  who  hath  bewitched  you? ' 
insisting  this  was  an  underhand  way  of  inciting 
the  people  of  Galatia  to  insurrections  and  mas- 
sacre. Those  Turkish  war  vessels  are  the  laugh- 
ing stock  of  naval  men ;  have  to  borrow  powder, 
if  asked  to  fire  honorary  salutes,  I'm  informed." 

While  this  conversation  went  on  Achmud  had 
brought  up  the  donkeys  again,  and  Lady  Emily 
said  to  Mrs.  Bangser,  before  proceeding  to  more 
tombs  and  mummies,  she  hoped  they  would  be 
none  the  worse  for  the  unexpected  encounter  in 
the  tunnel. 

We  spent  but  a  few  moments  in  those  rock- 
hewn  tombs,  where  Sacred  Apis  bulls  are  buried 
in  small  chapel-like  enclosures,  if  one  may  use 
such  a  word  in  connection  with  beasts,  and  I 
was  thankful  to  be  safe  on  the  Nile  boat  again, 
without  further  mishap.  Just  as  we  reached 
midstream  Mr.  Bangser  rushed  down  the  bank, 
the  others  following,  some  on  donkeys  in  clouds 


254  TRAVELS   OF  A   LADY'S   MAID 

of  dust  and  pursued  by  beggars  clamouring 
"  Backsheesh,  backsheesh,  give  prissent,  pris- 
sent." 

The  short  gentleman  waved  a  long  white  thing 
Mr.  Stubbs  believed  to  be  the  thigh-bone  of  an 
ox,  and  shouted,  "  Stop,  you  have  left  us."  The 
captain  refused,  however,  to  make  the  landing 
again,  saying  he  was  late  already,  and  a  boat 
would  be  along  from  the  sugar  mills  in  half  an 
hour,  and  by  that  passengers  could  reach  Cairo 
before  nine  o'clock. 

They  did  not  fail  to  return  safely,  for  the 
next  morning,  when  the  Countess  and  Lady 
Emily  were  selecting  rugs  in  the  bazaars,  her 
ladyship  saw  the  party  choosing  narghilehs  at 
a  Turkish  cigarette  shop,  the  wily  Turk  having 
persuaded  Mr.  Bangser  to  sit  cross-legged  - 
not  an  easy  matter  —  and  to  puff  away  at  a  long 
pipe,  while  the  others  sipped  coffee,  and  bar- 
gained with  peddlers  who  came  to  the  door  for 
gold-embroidered  scarfs,  combs,  scarabs,  per- 
fumes and  reed  pens,  all,  the  sellers  declared, 
being  fresh  from  temple  tombs  of  the  upper 
Nile. 

A  day  or  two  after  this  excursion  to  the  Mem- 
phis tombs,  we  started  by  train  for  Alexandria. 
From  this  port  Lady  Emily  was  decidedly 
pleased  to  find  a  vessel  could  be  taken,  that  per- 
mitted stopping  in  Greece  for  a  few  days.  The 
Earl  constantly  talked  of  Athens,  her  ladyship 
said,  having  spent  a  winter  there  with  his  tutor 
before  going  to  Oxford ;  and  since  visiting  India, 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID   255 

she  herself  has  thought  far  more  of  heroes,  and 
such  brave  deeds  as  one  reads  of  in  Greek  history ; 
but  had  not  believed  seeing  those  beautiful  is- 
lands would  be  possible,  on  their  way  to  Italy. 
From  Alexandria,  once  an  important  city 
with  its  grand  library,  we  went  by  a  comfortable 
steamship,  passing  the  Isle  of  Crete,  to  Pireus. 
Mr.  Stubbs  is  indeed  more  than  kind,  for  he  sat 
up  most  of  the  night  —  after  finishing  his  duties 
in  the  Earl's  cabin  —  with  one  of  the  stewards, 
ill  with  hemorrhages,  an  Irishman  from  Baity- 
shannon  town,  who,  the  ship's  surgeon  thinks,  is 
well  gone  in  consumption.  The  poor  fellow 
used  to  be  on  those  big  liners  between  Queens- 
town  and  New  York,  but  drifted  into  the  Medi- 
terranean service  on  account  of  Ms  weak  lungs. 
He  has  not  a  living  soul  connected  with  him  but 
a  sister,  and  she  is  married.  Still,  it  was  not 
dying  he  so  much  minded,  "  but  dying  away 
from  Ireland  takes  a  man's  courage,"  he  told 
Mr.  Stubbs,  and  then  said,  "  On  some  ships  they 
give  a  turn-off  of  the  electricity  before  midnight, 
you  know,  just  to  show  lights  will  soon  be  out. 
I've  had  that  notice,  Mr.  Stubbs;  the  warning 
has  come,  but  the  light  will  linger  a  little  while 
yet." 


CHAPTER   XLIX 

A  BEAUTIFULLY  clear,  early  spring  morning 
we  landed  at  Pireus,  and  drove  before  breakfast 
—  having  just  a  cup  of  coffee  on  leaving  the  ves- 
sel —  in  open  carriages  to  Athens.  Mr.  Stubbs 
and  I  had  the  small  pieces  —  the  larger  ones  hav- 
ing been  sent  to  the  hotel  by  train  or  tram  —  in 
a  victoria  behind  the  Earl's.  I  could  see  his 
lordship  pointing  out  most  delightedly  to  Lady 
Emily  the  various  sights  and  buildings,  before 
we  stopped  at  a  large  hotel  on  a  square,  near 
the  Royal  Palace  that  fronts  it  and  a  long 
straight  street.  Beyond  and  behind  the  large, 
white  residence  of  the  King  and  Queen  are  beau- 
tiful gardens,  and,  crowning  a  hill  not  far  dis- 
tant, stands  the  Parthenon,  one  of  the  grandest, 
most  admired  buildings  of  the  world. 

The  next  morning  the  Earl's  old  guide,  Mr. 
Thanasis  Dimacopoulos,  now  an  aged  man,  came 
and  begged  to  show  the  honourable  young  lady, 
as  he  called  Lady  Emily,  the  scenes  he,  long 
before  her  birth,  had  shown  his  lordship.  Many 
deeply  interesting  places  were  visited:  temples, 
ruins,  tombs.  Cheerful  places  the  cemeteries 
must  have  been,  from  the  sculptures,  still  re- 
maining, that  once  adorned  them.  The  faces 
have  a  calm,  smiling  expression,  as  if  those  who 

256 


TRAVELS   OF   A   LADY'S   MAID  257 

carved  them,  and  friends  left  on  this  earth,  really 
believed  their  dear  ones  have  entered  a  world 
of  light  and  happiness.  Modern  Greeks  have, 
depressed  feelings,  we  are  told,  over  troublous 
times,  and  the  poverty  in  Greece,  and  there  is 
sadness  everywhere  because  the  ancient  glory  of 
their  kingdom  has  departed.  They  fear,  too, 
being  overcome  by  the  Turks,  or  some  covetous 
European  power. 

After  visiting  the  Museum,  the  Countess  and 
Lady  Emily  went  with  the  British  Minister  and 
his  wife  to  have  private  audience  of  the  Queen. 
King  George  is  a  son  of  the  venerable  King  of 
Denmark,  accordingly,  of  course,  brother  to  our 
own  lovely  Queen  Alexandra.  The  sovereign's 
wife,  a  beautiful  Russian  princess,  received  the 
Countess  most  graciously,  Lady  Emily  said,  ask- 
ing many  questions  about  Japan,  visited  years 
ago  by  one  of  the  Grecian  princes,  her  Majesty's 
son,  with  the  Czarwitch,  now  Emperor  of  Rus- 
sia. Tea  was  served  on  a  terrace  opening  into 
charming  gardens,  where  Lady  Emily  walked 
with  one  of  the  maids  of  honour. 

An  excursion  was  arranged  by  some  English 
and  foreign  residents  for  the  following  day,  a 
battle-field  called  Marathon  having  been  chosen 
as  the  place  of  meeting.  Mr.  Stubbs,  on  the  box 
of  one  of  the  carriages  for  the  long  drive,  heard 
much  talk  about  the  battle,  and  kept  also  sharp 
lookout  for  bandits,  having  been  told  the  Greek 
highways  are  none  too  safe,  even  in  these  days. 
A  rather  windy  spot,  Mr.  Stubbs  considered,  on 


258  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

top  of  a  mound,  was  selected  for  spreading  out 
the  luncheon ;  but  as  one  of  the  gentlemen,  read- 
ing from  a  book,  declared  it  to  be  surely  the  true 
site,  overlooking  a  plain,  where  the  battle  must 
have  occurred,  all  seemed  satisfied.  The  fight 
must  have  happened  long  ago,  Mr.  Stubbs  con- 
cluded. 

After  lunching  he  found  a  sheltered  nook 
behind  some  rocks,  or  ruins.  Here,  closing  his 
eyes  for  awhile,  he  tried  to  imagine  the  whole 
scene:  great  guns  booming,  shells  bursting,  sol- 
diers rushing  hither  and  thither,  all  eager  for 
slaughter.  History  is  not  his  strong  point,  Mr. 
Stubbs  is  bound  to  say,  and  he  cannot  call  him- 
self a  prodigious  reader,  though  those  lines 
learned  as  a  lad  he  could  almost  recite  back- 
wards now: 

"  First  William  the  Conqueror, 
Then  William  his   son." 

It  goes  on  like  this  for  twenty  or  more  lines; 
very  handy  and  useful  in  getting  at  the  kings. 
In  thinking  over  those  battles  and  struggles  of 
ancient  times,  he  is  reminded  of  verses  his  Irish 
grandmother  used  to  sing: 

"  If  I  were  King  of  France, 
Or  still  better,  Pope  of  Rome, 
I'd  have  no  fighting  men  abroad, 
Nor  weeping  maids  at  home; 
But  this  thing  I  would  ordain, 
For  I  am  sure  it  would  be  right, 
That  those  who  make  the  battles 
Shall  be  the  only  ones  to  fight." 


Moreover,  these  lines  he  believes  were  written 
before  the  days  of  Krupp  and  other  great  rapid- 
firing  destroyers,  and  recalls  his  grandmother's 
telling  him  that,  in  her  day,  children  were 
frightened  by  threats  of  Napoleon's  catching 
them.  "  Old  Bony  will  be  after  you,"  was  the 
terrifying  assertion,  when  they  quarrelled  or 
were  disobedient. 

The  ladies  appeared  delighted  at  finding  some 
stalks  of  wild  fennel  and  several  big  green 
leaves,  —  most  appropriate  upon  that  mound, 
they  commented;  but  a  sort  of  weed,  in  Mr. 
Stubbs's  opinion  —  to  which  the  name  acanthus 
was  given.  Mr.  Stubbs  pressed  a  leaf  for  me, 
with  two  violet-coloured  anemones  and  a  red 
poppy. 

On  the  way  back  to  Athens  the  party  stopped 
at  a  farmhouse,  getting  honey  there  from  bees 
feeding  upon  wild  flowers  growing  on  the  slopes 
of  Mount  Hymettus;  and  arrived  in  the  city 
in  time  to  dine  at  the  Minister's;  then  started 
off  to  see  the  Parthenon  by  moonlight,  return- 
ing after  late  supper,  with  some  Americans  who 
had  been  on  the  excursion  to  Marathon :  a  rather 
exhausting  day,  Mr.  Stubbs  considered  it. 
"  You  never  feel  precisely  the  same  when  you 
make  your  noon  meal  a  picnic,  especially  if,  at 
the  same  time,  you  are  watching  out  for  brig- 
ands." 

On  Sunday  Mr.  Stubbs  and  I  walked  to  Mars 
Hill,  passing  many  ancient  monuments  and 
places  of  assembly,  where  you  see  the  very  seats, 


260  TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S   MAID 

hundreds  of  years  ago  occupied  by  wise  teachers 
and  students.  Here  it  is  that  the  apostle  Saint 
Paul  taught,  advising  the  Athenians  as  to  what 
is  right,  and  how  to  avoid  wrong.  Mr.  Stubbs 
comprehends  these  teachings  far  better  than  the 
talk  about  that  Parthenon,  and  those  more 
heathen  temples.  A  very  loose,  mixed  state  of 
things  came  through  getting  away  from  simple 
principles,  and  not  doing  your  plain  duty,  as 
admonished  by  all  Saint  Paul  pointed  out  and 
declared.  He  was  a  wise  one  for  directing 
women,  as  well  as  men. 

Nowadays  there  is  far  too  little  subjection; 
too  much  setting  up  to  know  by  the  weaker  sex, 
and  alarming  attempts  to  direct  the  stronger 
vessels.  Mr.  Stubbs  firmly  believes  it  takes 
more  than  Solomon's  wisdom  to  convince  such 
that  they  are  off  the  straight  road. 


CHAPTER   L 

A  VERY  agreeable,  instructive  day  was  spent 
at  a  place  several  hours  from  Athens,  where 
much  digging  has  recently  been  done,  in  the 
hope  of  discovering  buried  treasures,  gold  orna- 
ments, marbles,  and  the  like,  Lady  Emily  said, 
and  to  learn  more  respecting  the  ways  of  the 
ancients;  and,  before  leaving  Greece,  the  Earl 
shipped  to  England  many  beautiful  little  fig- 
ures, especially  selected  for  his  lordship's  ap- 
proval by  Mr.  Dimacopoulos.  These  were  dug 
from  tombs  or  temples  —  Tanagra,  the  Countess 
calls  them  —  to  add  to  the  collection,  one  of  the 
finest  in  Great  Britain,  gathered  years  ago  by 
the  late  Earl. 

A  yachting  trip  from  Athens  to  Corinth  was 
made  by  the  Earl,  Countess  and  Lady  Emily, 
Mr.  Stubbs  and  I  following  by  rail  with  the 
luggage.  The  air  of  Greece  is  delightfully  cool, 
after  Egypt,  and  from  the  window  of  the  rail- 
way compartment  glimpses  of  the  sea  and  dis- 
tant islands  also,  can  be  seen,  making  the  land- 
scape unusually  charming. 

We  stopped  the  night  at  a  clean,  Greek  inn, 
and  the  following  day  Lady  Emily  rode  with  the 
Earl  to  precipitous  heights  above  the  town.  Her 

261 


262  TRAVELS   OF   A   LADY'S   MAID 

ladyship  considered  the  view  of  mountains  and 
sea  from  Acro-Corinthus  glorious;  and  his  lord- 
ship's knowledge  of  ancient  fables  and  history 
makes  such  excursions  not  easily  forgotten.  The 
Earl  and  Lady  Emily  rested,  read  and  sketched, 
after  lunching,  upon  the  top  of  this  rocky  hill 
—  a  rough  climb  for  the  horses,  over  little  used 
roads  —  where  there  are  ruins  of  some  sort, 
until  nearly  sunset.  Coming  down,  they  tasted 
the  Grecian  wine  at  a  vine-trellised  tavern,  a 
delightfully  shaded  place.  One  enormously 
large  vine  with  far-reaching  branches  looked  as 
if  it  might  have  shadowed  the  portico  for  hun- 
dreds of  years.  The  wine  was  rather  bitter ;  but, 
having  very  little  alcohol  added  to  the  grapes,  is 
considered  wholesome. 

That  morning  at  Corinth,  after  his  lordship 
and  Lady  Emily  started  on  the  excursion,  I 
was  greatly  pleased  to  have  the  Countess  ask  me 
to  read  aloud  the  Epistle  written  by  St.  Paul 
to  the  people  of  this  very  Corinth.  Her  lady- 
ship's eyes  had  been  somewhat  troublesome,  ow- 
ing to  the  glare  and  dust  of  Egypt,  —  where, 
in  the  shape  of  tormenting  flies,  one  of  the 
plagues  still  remains,  —  and  that  her  ladyship 
could  put  up  with  my  stumbling  Scotch  way  of 
pronouncing  gave  me  pleasure.  Though  I  was 
a  little  nervous,  her  ladyship  kindly  assured  me 
that  I  had  a  pleasant  voice. 

The  next  move  was  by  rail,  part  of  the  way 
skirting  the  shores  of  the  sea  —  most  blue  and 
sparkling  in  the  warm  sunlight,  —  to  Olympia. 


TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S   MAID  263 

Here,  centuries  ago,  among  green  hills  and 
swift-flowing  streams,  renowned  athletic  con- 
tests were  held.  One  can  now  trace  the  outlines 
of  those  once  splendidly  adorned  buildings  and 
see  the  wonderful  statues  unearthed  from  ruins 
of  arenas  and  colonnades.  When  all  is  explained 
one  feels  he  almost  hears  the  shouts  of  applaud- 
ing, struggling  multitudes,  and  sees  wreaths 
given  the  victors,  just  as  crowds  now  applaud 
our  wrestling  matches,  or  the  winners  of  the 
Derby  and  at  Ascot. 

From  Olympia,  the  trip  to  Patras  was  agree- 
able and  not  long.  After  a  day's  wait  there,  an 
Austrian  steamer  bound  for  Corfu  came  into 
port,  and  in  this  vessel  the  Earl's  party  made 
the  short  voyage,  leaving  the  steamer  for  a  few 
hours  at  Corfu,  and  driving  on  this  charming 
island  to  a  beautiful  villa,  where  that  lovely,  un- 
fortunate Empress  Elizabeth  passed  some  of  her 
happiest  days.  The  marble  terraces,  overlook- 
ing peaceful,  shining  waters,  and  shaded  paths 
leading  to  tiny  coves  or  sheltered  beaches,  are 
unchanged  since  their  royal  owner's  death.  It 
saddens  the  Countess,  remembering  how  one  so 
true  and  gifted  suffered,  dying  cruelly  alone,  at 
last,  in  a  strange  land. 

Before  the  steamship  sailed,  a  former  lady-in- 
waiting  to  the  Empress  —  revisiting  Corfu  en 
souvenir,  Lady  Emily  believes,  of  her  dearly 
loved  lamented  mistress  —  came  on  board.  This 
lady  has  lived  in  London  and  spoke  English 
without  foreign  accent.  She  talked  most  inter- 


264  TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

estingly  of  past  days,  telling  of  walks,  drives 
and  moonlit  nights  by  calm  waters  of  the  Ionian 
Sea,  and  amid  those  poetic  surroundings  of  the 
Villa  Achilleon.  In  whatever  part  of  the  world 
she  may  be,  one  of  her  greatest  pleasures  is 
watching  the  sunsets,  whether  twilight  comes 
with  simply  a  deep  red  glow,  as  frequently  she 
recalls  having  seen  beyond  Kensington  Gardens; 
or  isles  of  flame  arise  in  azure  seas,  as  she  has 
witnessed  among  peaks  in  the  Dolomites.  She 
ever  loves  to  associate  this  tranquil  hour  with  the 
Empress,  it  was  so  often  spent  with  her  whose 
noble  spirit  she  believes  still  enjoys  all  that  is 
glorious  in  a  happier  world.  With  the  last  per- 
ceptible dip  of  the  sun  a  vivid  green  flash  always 
comes,  the  lady  said,  and  this  final  gleam,  as  the 
sun  slips  away,  she  likes  to  regard  as  a  signal 
from  the  shores  to  which  her  Empress  has  gone. 


CHAPTER   LI 

THOUGH  reaching  the  harbour  of  Brindisi  late 
in  the  day,  the  landing  was  speedily  accom- 
plished, the  Earl  and  Countess  expressing  much 
pleasure  at  being  again  in  Italy.  Before  noon 
the  following  morning  we  started  by  train  for 
Salerno,  stopping  there  to  enable  the  Earl  to 
show  Lady  Emily  those  magnificent  ruins,  the 
temples  at  Paestum.  All  that  day  we  were  pass- 
ing through  charming  scenes;  small  gray  towns 
clinging  to  terraced  mountain  slopes;  castles 
perched  high  on  solitary  rocks,  and  sometimes 
having  glimpses,  from  the  train,  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean, before  reaching  Salerno,  just  as  the 
lights  began  shining  out  from  the  peasants'  cot- 
tages. 

From  Salerno,  one  of  the  most  charming 
drives  imaginable  was  made  to  Amalfi.  There, 
far  above  the  sea,  we  lodged  in  what  had  once 
been  an  ancient  monastery,  overlooking  the  blue 
waters.  All  wished  days  could  be  spent  here, 
for  they  would  pass  far  too  quickly,  gazing  out 
between  the  vine-festooned  columns  of  that 
lovely  pergola.  From  this  exquisite  spot  the 
road  leads  to  Sorrento,  where,  among  orange, 
lemon  and  olive  trees,  on  a  steep  bluff  overhang- 

265 


ing  the  bay,  most  comfortable  hotels  have  been 
built,  with  views  of  islands  and  sea  one  could 
never  tire  of  looking  upon. 

To  Capri  —  a  dreamlike  place,  Lady  Emily 
thought  —  the  Earl  took  the  Countess  and  her 
ladyship  the  following  morning.  After  leaving 
the  boat,  having  to  climb  high  cliffs,  the  Countess 
rode  a  gentle  donkey;  but  Lady  Emily  pre- 
ferred walking  with  the  Earl  to  the  tiny  inn, 
where  a  delicious  luncheon  was  served  on  a 
sheltered  terrace  above  vines  and  blossoming 
trees,  with  views  of  Mount  Vesuvius,  the  Bay 
of  Naples  and  Sorrento,  beautiful  almost  beyond 
belief  if  one  has  not  beheld  with  one's  own  eyes 
such  enchanting  scenes. 

While  eating  luncheon  —  the  freshest  of  fish, 
omelette,  macaroni,  cooked  as  one  never  gets  it 
out  of  Italy,  declared  his  lordship;  asparagus 
daintily  prepared,  and  fruits  —  feathery  clouds 
of  smoke  gathered  above  the  volcano,  sometimes 
shaped  like  a  huge  bird  with  outstretched  wings; 
again,  as  the  wind  varied,  becoming  floating 
banners,  or  trailing  streamers,  reminding  one  of 
the  awful  calamity  that,  almost  without  warning, 
blotted  out  this  charming  prospect,  burying  in 
lava,  or  smothering  in  ashes,  the  light-hearted 
Pompeians,  who,  rejoicing  in  the  beauty  of  their 
vine-covered  hills  and  sparkling  waters  sur- 
rounding them,  never  dreamed  that  overwhelm- 
ing peril  could  be  near. 

After  luncheon,  the  Earl  and  Lady  Emily 
were  rowed  to  a  wonderful  cavern.  One  enters 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  267 

through  a  small  opening  under  the  cliffs,  and 
once  inside,  the  large  grotto  seems  flooded  with 
blue  moonlight.  A  fascinating  place  it  is,  weird 
and  haunting,  quite  different  from  any  other 
caves  Lady  Emily  has  seen.  The  water  drip- 
ping from  the  oars  looks  like  drops  of  liquid 
silver,  and  the  walls  have  a  shining,  starry  ap- 
pearance. 

Having  the  day  free,  Mr.  Stubbs  and  I  took 
a  fly  for  the  afternoon,  making  a  nice  turn  along 
the  shores  before  walking  to  a  hill-top  where 
there  is  a  fine  agricultural  school  founded  by  the 
government  for  the  training  of  young  Italians. 
Expert  gardeners  and  cultivators  of  the  soil  they 
become,  we  were  told.  Few  meadows  yield 
larger,  more  luxurious  crops  than  these  of  Italy, 
and  the  vines  easily  rival  those  of  France  and 
Spain.  The  students  find  their  way  to  foreign 
lands,  too,  as  not  many  of  the  great  land  owners 
in  Italy  pay  the  wages  good  workmen  can  get 
in  America  and  other  countries;  so  emigration 
increases,  and  very  low  passage  rates  are  charged 
by  the  steamship  companies  to  American  and 
other  ports. 

As  we  descended  the  hill,  admiring  the  scen- 
ery and  those  lanes,  shaded  by  olive  and  orange 
trees,  where  the  golden  fruit  and  fragrant  blos- 
soms hang  temptingly  over  gray,  moss-grown 
walls,  Mr.  Stubbs  remarked,  he  should  have  to 
choose,  he  feared,  between  ascending  Vesuvius 
by  the  funicular,  or  seeing  Pompeii,  his  lord- 
ship having  intimated  that  a  very  short  stay 


would  be  made  in  Naples.  Half  a  day  off 
would  be  the  most  he  could  expect,  and  though 
disliking  to  give  up  the  volcano,  having  read 
about  those  last  days  in  Pompeii,  he  felt  he  could 
by  no  means  miss  the  sights  there,  and  if  it  came 
to  a  choice,  should  decide  in  favour  of  the  buried 
city. 

The  Earl  had  accepted,  for  himself,  and  Lady 
Emily  also,  he  was  inclined  to  think,  the  invita- 
tion of  a  noted  Italian  professor  who  makes  a 
specialty  of  diggings,  to  accompany  a  party 
of  naval  officers  from  our  war  ships  then  in 
the  harbour,  to  Pompeii  the  next  day,  there- 
fore he  feared  my  chances  of  seeing  the  ruins 
doubtful  and,  in  case  I  did  not,  would  endeav- 
our to  remember  everything  interesting,  and  on 
returning  relate  his  experiences  to  me. 

We  lingered  along  the  pleasant  lanes,  stop- 
ping here  and  there  to  gather  wild  flowers  and 
twigs  of  those  silvery-lined  olive  leaves,  resting 
awhile  by  the  wayside  shrines  one  constantly  sees 
in  Italy,  so  it  was  getting  late,  and  already  a 
decided  evening  chill  was  in  the  air,  before  we 
turned  into  a  wider  road,  leading  towards  the 
hotels.  Just  here  we  heard  a  tremendous  clat- 
tering of  horses'  hoofs,  as  a  man  dashed  past 
at  full  speed,  leaning  far  over  his  horse's  neck, 
and  urging  the  poor  beast,  by  voice  and  whip,  to 
still  greater  effort. 

Mr.  Stubbs  and  I,  having  barely  time  to  get 
out  of  the  terrified  animal's  way,  were  quite 
breathless  for  a  moment,  and  then,  hearing 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  269 

warning  shouts  ahead,  again  attempted  to  climb 
upon  the  high  stone  wall,  somewhat  broken  down 
near  where  we  stood.  An  instant  later  two 
horses  attached  to  a  victoria  galloped  up  the 
road,  the  vehicle  swaying  and  swerving  from 
side  to  side  in  an  appalling  manner,  like  the 
fire  department's  engines  tearing  through  our 
London  streets,  in  response  to  an  alarm  of  fire. 
On  the  top  two  men  were  seated,  or  rather,  one 
half  stood  by  the  driver,  grasping  the  side  of  the 
carriage  with  one  hand,  while  the  other  held  a 
pistol  apparently  levelled  directly  at  us.  It 
gave  Mr.  Stubbs  and  me  a  turn,  but  before 
there  was  a  chance  to  speak,  the  carriage  thun- 
dered by.  The  horses,  it  was  easy  to  see,  were 
fairly  exhausted,  disappearing  beneath  low 
arched  trees,  where  the  road  leads  towards  the 
water. 

As  we  hurried  forward  in  the  direction  of  the 
town,  a  mile  or  more  away,  a  constable,  or  armed 
guard,  rode  up,  and  speaking  in  English,  asked 
Mr.  Stubbs  if  we  had  met  any  one  on  the  road. 
He  then  said  some  official  connected  with  one  of 
the  Naples  banks  had  stolen  securities,  funds 
and  other  valuables  belonging  to  the  depositors. 
His  defalcations  having  that  day  been  discov- 
ered, he  was  making  a  desperate  effort  to  escape 
with  his  booty  to  a  yacht,  waiting,  it  was  con- 
jectured, somewhere  off  the  coast,  in  readiness 
to  convey  him  across  to  Africa.  This  scheme 
would  probably  succeed,  he  being  popular  in 
the  neighbourhood,  having  posed  as  a  philan- 


270  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

thropist,  while  spending  others'  money;  and 
knowing  well,  also,  many  secure  cavern  hiding 
places  in  the  cliffs  that  were  inaccessible  from  the 
sea,  except  at  low  tide,  but  reached  from  the 
land  side  by  secret  winding  passages,  tunnelled 
for  a  great  distance,  and  the  openings  carefully 
concealed  by  rocks  and  creepers.  In  these  caves 
he  could  doubtless  find  refuge  until,  protected 
by  darkness,  flight  to  his  yacht  was  safely  possi- 
ble. 

After  banking  hours,  it  had  been  the  de- 
faulter's custom,  on  leaving  his  office,  to  go  by 
rail  to  some  point  beyond  Naples,  where  his 
wife  usually  met  him  in  their  motor  or  victoria; 
but  that  day,  not  having  returned  to  his  villa 
the  night  before,  vainly  hoping  to  longer  con- 
ceal his  crime,  it  was  believed,  he  had  made  the 
entire  trip  in  his  Panhard,  which  met  him  out- 
side the  city.  Later,  this  Panhard,  evidently 
very  effectually  and  purposely  disabled,  was 
found  by  the  police,  its  owner  having  escaped 
on  one  of  the  fleetest  horses  in  his  stables.  The 
police  captured  the  victoria  waiting  near  the 
station  as  a  "  blind,"  and  forced  the  coachman, 
as  we  had  seen,  to  lash  his  horses  to  their  utmost 
speed  in  pursuit  of  his  master. 

We  were  told  the  next  day  that  the  embezzler 
had  not  been  overtaken,  and  there  was  impres- 
sion that  some  of  those  pursuing  might  not  have 
been  over-zealous  in  their  duty,  large  sums  of 
money  having  changed  hands,  it  was  believed. 
Mr.  Stubbs  says  he  has  watched  out  for  thieves 


TRAVELS   OF  A   LADY'S   MAID  271 

and  thugs  ever  since  he  left  England,  but  did 
not  anticipate  their  turning  up  in  the  shape  of 
bankers  and  philanthropists. 

The  Countess  having  greatly  enjoyed  the  air 
and  scenes  at  Sorrento,  it  was  decided,  the  fol- 
lowing day,  to  drive  most  of  the  way  to  Naples, 
stopping  for  luncheon  at  a  charming  place  mid- 
way, Mr.  Stubbs  going  ahead  by  train  with  the 
luggage,  and  I  to  go  with  her  ladyship  in  the 
roomy  vettura.  Mr.  Stubbs  finds  himself  quite 
capable  of  making  his  way  anywhere,  always 
picking  up  a  few  words  and  expressions  in  the 
language  of  each  country,  and  likes  improving 
such  opportunities  for  conversation  as  come  to 
him,  though  sometimes  people  reply  in  English. 
For  instance,  this  morning  the  Italian  porter 
at  one  of  the  near-by  hotels,  of  whom  Mr.  Stubbs 
inquired  in  very  good  Italian,  —  he  having  been 
in  Italy  before,  never  south  of  Rome,  however, 
—  as  to  where  copies  of  the  London  newspapers 
could  be  bought,  replied  in  English,  "  non  com- 
prehendo  the  language  of  France."  Fancy, 
what  an  absurd  mistake.  The  porter  appeared 
sober,  apparently  hearing  perfectly,  also,  and 
Mr.  Stubbs  talking  Italian,  the  man's  own 
tongue,  to  him,  at  that  very  moment!  The  pro- 
nunciation may  not  have  been  absolutely  that 
of  Sorrento,  but  the  words  were  quite  correct, 
Mr.  Stubbs  having  looked  them  out,  himself,  in 
the  phrase-book. 

The  drive  toward  Naples  is  not  so  captivating, 
Lady  Emily  considers,  as  that  from  Amalfi  to 


272  TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

Sorrento;  but  simply  being  in  Italy  is  an  in- 
spiration, and  every  turn  of  the  road  reveals 
glimpses  of  sea  and  sbore  one  wishes  never  to 
forget. 


CHAPTER   LII 

ON  arriving  at  that  pleasant  hotel,  set  high 
upon  the  terraced  hillside  above  Naples,  Mr. 
Stubbs  had  everything  to  rights  in  the  rooms 
reserved  for  the  Earl.  His  lordship  is  the  most 
considerate  of  masters;  but  once  having  given 
instructions  as  to  how  things  shall  be  done,  or 
placed,  is  extremely  particular  regarding  his 
wishes  being  carried  out  precisely  as  directed. 
The  writing  table,  for  instance,  must  be  well  out 
from  the  wall,  and  the  chair  always  drawn  a 
little  slantwise,  never  pushed  under  the  edge  of 
the  table  or  desk;  and  the  hotel  people  must  not 
bring  in  lamps  until  they  are  rung  for,  nor  close 
all  the  windows  before  sunset.  Mr.  Stubbs  him- 
self is  most  careful  to  see  that  directions  are 
followed  exactly  as  given,  never  slighting  any 
little  details  of  his  duties.  In  Naples  he  found 
some  of  the  Countess's  favourite  hyacinths,  the 
single,  white  sort,  —  the  heavily  perfumed  vari- 
ety are  never  allowed  indoors  at  Ortham,  —  and 
placed  a  big  blue  bowl  filled  with  these  delicate 
flowers  upon  her  ladyship's  writing  desk.  Jars 
of  jonquils  and  narcissi  stood  on  a.  stand  in  the 
large  square  window,  leading  to  a  balcony  with 

273 


274  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

awnings,  where,  sheltered  from  winds  and  glare, 
one  may  sit  or  have  tea  served;  overlooking 
near-by  gardens  and  the  town's  thronged  streets 
to  the  flashing  waters  of  the  fascinating  bay. 

As  Mr.  Stubbs  had  thought  probable,  the  Earl 
and  Lady  Emily  started  early  the  next  morning 
to  meet  the  naval  party  from  our  squadron,  who 
were  to  accompany  the  Italian  professor  to 
Pompeii,  and  to  the  ruins  of  a  smaller  place, 
—  Herculaneum,  —  this  town  also  having  been 
destroyed  by  the  volcano.  These  excursions 
would  take  most  of  the  day;  accordingly  the 
Countess  directed  me  to  order  a  carriage  in  the 
afternoon,  and  accompany  her  ladyship  for  some 
shopping.  After  going  to  several  shops,  buying 
coral  ornaments,  tortoise  shell  combs  and  photo- 
graphs, the  Countess  drove  by  the  seashore,  and 
out  through  a  long  cavern  or  tunnel,  to  where 
the  views  are  most  charming.  We  passed  many 
aily-dressed  peasants,  returning  to  the  city  in 
high  carts,  much  too  heavily  laden  for  the  one 
small  donkey  drawing  so  many  people,  and  when 
the  stones  are  slippery,  after  rains,  or  from  con- 
stant use,  the  poor,  patient  beasts  do  indeed  have 
a  hard  time  to  keep  upon  their  legs.  The  dwell- 
ers in  this  southern  part  of  Italy  are  extremely 
superstitious,  having  firm  faith  in  wearing  med- 
als, bearing  the  image  of  patron  saints,  or  the 
Holy  Virgin,  or  small  hands  carved  in  coral,  the 
first  and  fourth  fingers  extended  in  a  horn-like 
fashion  to  ward  off  effects  of  the  "  evil  eye,"  or 
avert  other  misfortunes  which  they  believe  may 


TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S   MAID  275 

overtake  them.  Very  devout  they  are,  too,  at- 
tending many  masses,  and  venerating  relics. 

That  evening,  when  Mr.  Stubbs,  who  had 
spent  half  the  day  at  Pompeii,  returned,  he 
described  the  sights  as  even  beyond  his  expecta- 
tions; and  following  the  guide,  who  spreads  all 
the  history  before  you,  in  very  good  English, 
you  can  quite  fancy  you  see  for  yourself  the 
temples  filled  with  worshippers,  or  those  terrible 
scenes  on  that  night  of  sudden  destruction,  when 
sentry  and  guards  bravely  kept  their  places  out- 
side the  city  walls,  perishing  in  fulfilling  their 
duty.  He  could  picture,  too,  that  poor  blind 
girl,  Nydia,  of  whom  he  has  read  in  the  story, 
groping  through  the  deserted  streets,  piteously 
seeking  some  friend  to  save  her  from  terrors  the 
full  horror  of  which  she  could  only  imagine. 

Generally  speaking,  Mr.  Stubbs  has  too  great 
respect  for  his  stomach  to  eat  much  in  the  way 
of  sweets  or  ices,  but  did  feel  the  need  of  re- 
freshment, he  says,  on  returning  from  those 
scenes  at  Pompeii,  and  consequently  stopped  at 
a  confectioner's  for  an  ice,  much  nicer  than  any 
he  remembers  having  eaten  in  France.  He  was 
kind  enough  to  invite  me  to  go  again  that  eve- 
ning to  this  same  place.  We  sat  at  a  small 
round  table  outside  the  restaurant,  where  a  band 
played,  and  a  company  of  singers  gave  several 
splendid  songs.  Santa  Lucia  is  one  I  like  es- 
pecially, having  heard  it  before  at  Sorrento, 
when  watching  the  peasants  dancing,  on  the 
terrace,  a  very  merry  noted  dance  of  that  region; 


276  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

the  Tarantella,  it  is  called.  I  agreed  with  Mr. 
Stubbs  regarding  the  ices;  nothing  could  be 
better,  and  our  evening  was  most  enjoyable. 
The  Countess  having  dined  out,  did  not  want 
me  until  after  ten  o'clock. 

The  next  morning  Lady  Emily  desired  I 
should  be  ready  at  half  after  nine,  as  she  in- 
tended going  to  a  museum,  and  the  Aquarium. 
The  galleries  were  extremely  interesting ;  marbles, 
bronzes,  and  paintings,  the  former  dug  from 
where  the  ancients  lived.  You  see  also  the  very 
mirrors  and  toilet  articles  once  used  by  those 
poor,  destroyed  ladies.  The  Aquarium  her  lady- 
ship considered  finer  than  those  at  Brighton  or 
in  New  York;  and  such  entertaining  monsters 
in  the  way  of  fish  I  have  never  seen.  One, 
named  octopus,  was  a  spongy,  skeleton-like 
creature,  with  long,  grasping  arms,  and  legs 
writhing  out  in  all  directions  from  his  ghost-like 
body.  There  were  other  fish  of  brilliant  hues, 
and  in  one  tank  tiny  creatures,  mer-horses,  Lady 
Emily  said  they  should  be  named,  floated,  their 
heads  shaped  like  a  pony's,  and  their  bodies 
steered  along  by  small  curled-up  tails.  Another 
curiosity  was  the  electric  eel.  On  grasping  it 
firmly,  a  shock  comes  as  though  from  an  electric 
battery. 

Her  ladyship,  having  promised  to  return  for 
noon  breakfast,  or  luncheon,  before  starting  with 
the  Earl  for  Mount  Vesuvius,  could  not  remain 
as  long  as  she  would  otherwise  have  liked  at  the 
Aquarium.  Breakfast  was  served  under  awn- 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  277 

ings  in  the  balcony;  a  street  band,  wheeling  a 
piano,  stopped  in  the  roadway  below,  and  pro- 
vided unexpected  musical  attractions  of  a  very 
enlivening  sort. 

On  Mr.  Stubbs  asking  the  Earl,  shortly  before 
it  was  time  to  start  for  Mount  Vesuvius,  whether 
his  lordship  wished  to  take  the  field  glasses  and 
aneroid,  his  lordship  replied,  '  Yes,  you  can 
take  them,  Stubbs,  and  a  wrap  for  Lady  Emily, 
as  we  may  be  out  rather  late."  Mr.  Stubbs, 
naturally,  was  quite  delighted,  managing  to  get 
in  both  excursions,  one  having  been  the  most 
he  had  felt  it  safe  to  count  on. 

From  the  summit  of  Vesuvius  the  views  in 
every  direction  were  beautiful,  Lady  Emily  told 
me,  but  not  so  charming  as  those  looking  land- 
ward from  Capri  over  the  rippling  waters;  and 
the  volcano  was  by  no  means  as  marvellous  a 
sight  as  that  wonderful  lake  or  abyss  of  fire 
into  which  we  looked,  after  crossing  those  black- 
ened, twisted  lava  fields  of  Kilauea,  that  night 
long  ago  in  the  Hawaiian  Islands.  Her  lady- 
ship has  a  strong  feeling  that  "  Vesuvio,"  as 
Italians  call  the  volcano,  can  not  be  trusted,  and 
may  again  overwhelm  those  unsuspecting  peas- 
ants, and  devastate  their  fruitful  vineyards,  as 
it  did  ages  ago. 

In  spite  of  what  is  said  of  the  indolence  of 
people  living  in  warm  climates,  these  Italians 
do  seem  very  industrious,  working  willingly,  Mr. 
Stubbs  is  assured,  for  a  shilling  or  two  a  day, 
and  being  cheery  and  lighthearted  over  hard- 


278  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

ships;  but  this  pittance  even  would  be  counted 
riches  in  China  or  India,  where  hundreds  of 
thousands  perish  from  sheer  starvation.  He 
does  not  wonder  that  the  half-famished  Chinese 
take  opium  to  forget  their  misery,  as  our  down- 
trodden, hunger-gnawed  outcasts  in  London 
drink  rum,  getting  so  filled  with  the  poison  that 
a  match  touched  to  some  of  them,  he  believes, 
would  flame  like  a  torch. 

The  scenery  between  Naples  and  Rome  is  not 
so  varied  and  interesting  as  that  between  Brin- 
disi  and  Salerno;  but  there  are  nice  bits  of  coun- 
try, and  thriving  farm  lands.  Owing  to  two  or 
three  tiresome  delays  —  mischief  workers  having 
wickedly  placed  obstructions  on  the  lines,  hop- 
ing to  plunder  the  travellers'  luggage,  it  was 
thought,  though  none  knew  surely  the  cause  of 
those  tedious  waits  —  the  train  was  very  late  in 
reaching  Rome.  It  was  after  dark,  in  fact,  when 
the  guard  called  "  Roma,"  and  the  passengers 
hurried  from  the  large  crowded  station  to  car- 
riages and  omnibuses  waiting  outside. 

The  hotel  is  but  a  short  distance  from  the  rail- 
way station,  and  quite  close  to  the  British  Em- 
bassy. I  heard  the  Earl  reminding  Lady  Emily, 
who  seemed  delighted  to  be  in  what  Fraulein 
always  spoke  of  as  the  Eternal  City,  that  the 
immortal  Goethe  has  said,  "  One  only  finds  in 
Rome  what  one  takes  there,"  meaning  hard 
study  is  needed  to  attempt  comprehending 
places  so  wonderful  and  aged  as  this  great  city 
of  Rome. 


CHAPTER   LIII 

IT  being  Holy  Week,  shortly  after  our  ar- 
rival, and  strictly  observed  in  Rome,  no  large 
formal  entertainments  took  place.  One  or  two 
solemn  concerts,  however,  were  attended  by  the 
Countess  and  Lady  Emily,  who  spent  many 
hours  in  churches  and  galleries. 

Mr.  Stubbs  and  I  were  given  much  liberty 
for  sight-seeing,  and  he,  having  seen  most  of 
the  interesting  places  before,  made  our  going 
about  together  very  instructive  and  agreeable, 
especially  now  that,  having  travelled  so  much, 
and  read  more,  I  can  appreciate  this  grand  op- 
portunity for  seeing  all  sides  of  the  wonderful 
world. 

Rome  and  its  seven  hills  did  use  to  be  spoken 
of  in  Scotland  when  I  was  a  child;  but  many 
of  the  Papist  doings  were  not  just  well  thought 
of,  and  our  Highlanders  talked  a  good  deal 
about  Jesuits,  the  scarlet  woman  and  faults  in 
the  church  of  Rome.  Malcolm,  one  of  our  old- 
est pipers,  was  free  to  say,  he  knew  beyond 
peradventure  there  was  a  Papist  Fund,  called 
the  "  skirmishing  fund,"  for  perverting  and  sub- 
duing Scotland.  Did  not  Deborah,  Malcolm's 

279 


280  TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S   MAID 

step-sister,  she  that  was  lady's  maid  to  an  in- 
valid who,  travelling  in  foreign  parts  went  over 
sudden  to  Papacy,  with  her  own  eyes  behold 
in  one  of  their  worshipping  places  above  that 
Lourdes'  Grotto,  a  banner  bearing  the  inscrip- 
tion,—  "Pray  for  Scotland!"  Straws  indeed 
show  which  way  the  wind  blows  and  it's  the  enter- 
ing wedge,  mind  you,  that  forces  granite  asunder. 
If  kirk  and  ministers  fail  their  bounden  duty 
John  Knox's  spirit  abides  in  Scotland,  and  there 
are  those  more  than  willing,  in  Malcolm's  belief, 
to  speak  the  warning  word.  Many  severe  trials 
—  burying  his  last  of  kin ;  savings  going,  too, 
through  no  fault  of  his  own  —  did  not  embitter 
Malcolm's  stern,  but  tender  nature.  A  giant 
in  strength  and  suffering,  his  oft-repeated  ad- 
monitions, —  "  Keep  aye  drappin'  in  the  seeds, 
mon,  they  will  be  workin'  when  we  be  slapin', 
and  ye'l  no  stand  fermer  yesel'  laddie  by  studin' 
fayblenesses,  an'  dwellin'  on  the  weeked  deeds 
o'  anither,"  has  steadied  the  purpose  of  many  a 
Highland-born  lad,  in  dire  temptation.  Doubt- 
less errors  and  wrong  doings  still  exist  in  both 
kirk  and  church;  but  "those  of  every  faith, 
striving  for  truth,  are  getting  closer  together, 
learning  to  forget  differences  that  once  separated 
them." 

In  talking  with  Lady  Emily  regarding  intol- 
erance towards  others'  beliefs,  and  of  divisions 
and  differences  separating  Christian  people,  the 
Countess  said,  -  "  Nations  make  peace,  and 
become  allies  after  fiercest  conflicts.  Why 


TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  281 

should  those  claiming  to  follow  Christ  permit 
a  divided  Christendom? " 

One  forenoon  Mr.  Stubbs  and  I  passed  a 
couple  of  hours  in  the  Vatican  galleries,  seeing, 
as  Mr.  Stubbs  pointed  out,  some  of  the  great- 
est canvases  ever  painted  by  mortal  hand.  Of 
immense  size  they  are,  depicting  every  sort  of 
subject.  Mr.  Stubbs  prefers  the  soberer  ones, 
famous  teachers,  mountain  scenes,  flowers  and 
children,  having  been  brought  up,  after  his 
mother's  death, "  in  a  very  quiet  way,  by  his 
father's  sister,  a  Methodist.  Nymphs,  sorcer- 
esses and  the  like  have  little  to  tempt  his  admira- 
tion. After  studying  all  those  most  noted  pic- 
tures, we  walked  long  distances,  going  up  and 
down  many  stone  steps,  to  reach  the  halls  of 
statutes;  the  like  I  have  never  seen.  A  gentle- 
man, followed  by  a  drooping-appearing  com- 
pany of  tourists,  explained,  in  English,  the  more 
interesting  figures  and  groups,  informing  those 
pressing  near  enough  to  hear,  who  had  made 
them,  and  where  they  were  found.  He  called 
the  Vatican,  '  *  This  great  storehouse  of  dead 
ages,"  urging  the  wearied  ladies  and  gentlemen 
to  attack  its  treasures,  rich  past  estimating  in 
marbles,  paintings  and  books.  When  he  had 
finished  describing  all  the  wonders  that  could  be 
seen,  I  heard  one  of  the  ladies  of  the  party,  a 
tall,  spectacled  person,  speaking  in  a  quick, 
jerky  manner,  say,  as  she  linked  her  arm  through 
that  of  a  shorter,  more  robust  lady,  the  front 
of  whose  blue  flannel  blouse  was  generously 


282  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

decorated  with  ornaments  resembling  medals  and 
orders;  stars,  wheels,  crescents  and  the  like 
hanging  from  ends  of  ribbon,  varying  in  width 
and  hue,  "It  is  your  turn  to  count  the  animals 
this  time,  I  will  note  the  human  beings.  We 
shall  learn  a  good  deal  in  this  way,  even  if  we 
don't  see  the  figures  again;  and  if  you  should 
find  any  perfect  ones  be  sure  and  put  it  down." 
Off  they  started  with  note  books,  appearing 
scarcely  to  glance  at  the  works  of  art  beyond 
making  out  —  and  many  were  very  badly  dam- 
aged —  by  which  lady  they  must  be  counted. 

I  enjoyed  Saint  Peter's,  and  climbing  that 
immense  dome,  as  much  as  any  of  the  sights. 
Mr.  Stubbs  holds  the  catacombs  are  more  satis- 
fying than  anything  in  the  way  of  pyramids  or 
tombs  to  be  seen  in  the  land  of  Egypt.  He 
could  spend  hours  meditating  on  those  Christian 
Martyrs,  finding  it  better  than  a  sermon  for 
the  temper.  Rambling  about  that  Colosseum 
is  what  he  thinks  improving  to  the  mind;  fol- 
lowing the  tracks  of  those  ferocious  beasts,  im- 
agining the  dreadful  carnage  and  deeds  of  hor- 
ror, before  the  tortured  Christians  rested  peace- 
fully in  charnel  houses,  under  the  very  palaces, 
perhaps,  of  their  cruel  oppressors. 

Lady  Emily  enjoyed  walking  on  a  terraced 
hill,  where  there  are  ornamental  gardens  and 
marble  seats,  —  the  Pincio.  This  Promenade 
overlooks  the  city,  and  beyond  the  gardens  where 
bands  play  is  a  famous  spot  for  gathering  the 
first  spring  violets.  This  route  Lady  Emily 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  283 

chose  the  morning  we  went  to  Saint  Peter's 
church,  her  ladyship  directing  the  carriage  to 
wait  in  the  Piazza  del  Popolo.  After  this  de- 
lightful walk,  I  drove  with  her  ladyship,  through 
narrow  streets,  to  the  Tiber,  crossing  the  broad, 
sluggish  stream  upon  a  wide  bridge;  many 
marble  figures  ranged  along  each  side  appear 
to  be  flying,  apparently,  from  where  they  are 
fastened. 

Passing  through  a  rather  gloomy  street,  we 
came  out  into  that  sun-flooded  square  with  fine 
fountains  fronting' the  colonnades  of  the  grand- 
est church  ever  seen.  Lady  Emily,  being  very 
desirous  of  seeing  the  views  from  the  roof,  or 
gallery,  outside  of  the  church,  stopped  at  some 
office  where  permission  is  given  to  make  the 
ascent.  The  Italian  guide  wanted  to  show  Lady 
Emily  one  or  two  monuments  that  had  escaped 
her  ladyship's  notice  in  previous  visits  to  the 
huge  church,  and  pointed  out  "  the  worn,  world- 
kissed  foot  "  of  the  bronze  statue  of  Saint  Peter, 
which  stands  to  the  right  of  that  enormously 
long  middle  aisle,  not  far  from  the  high  altar. 
Such  a  place  for  dead  popes,  and  tombs,  I  could 
never  have  fancied  seeing.  The  bodies,  however, 
are  not  always  permitted  to  rest  there,  it  seems, 
other  churches  liking  to  have  the  honour  of  a 
dead  pontiff,  the  guide  asserted.  Saint  Peter's 
is  such  a  light,  cheerful  place  one  can  see  every- 
thing well;  more  agreeable  that  way  than  Saint 
Paul's,  in  London,  and  far  larger.  Mr.  Stubbs 
says  I  should  have  seen  Saint  Peter's  as  it  was 


284  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

grandly  dressed  for  some  festival:  miles  of  red 
velvet  and  damask  hangings  on  the  walls,  and 
thousands  upon  thousands  of  pilgrims,  fairly 
lost,  however,  in  that  immense  space. 

After  examining  various  chapels  and  many 
marble  monuments,  we  were  shown  to  a  small 
door,  near  the  tomb  of  one  of  the  more  recent 
popes,  and  found  the  winding  ascent  from  there 
to  the  dome  quite  easy.  Along  this  passage 
stone  tablets  were  set  into  the  walls  recording 
the  names  of  crowned  heads  and  other  highly 
placed  personages  who  had  ascended.  Coming 
out  upon  a  wide  roof  and  gallery  above  the 
portico,  where  the  prospect  over  the  square  and 
hills  beyond  S.  Angelo's  Castel  is  very  fine,  we 
mounted  steps  to  reach  the  lantern.  From  here 
one  overlooks  charming  gardens  where  the  Pope 
walks.  Lady  Emily  felt  almost  convinced  that 
a  slow-moving  figure,  clad  in  white,  leaning  on 
a  cane  and  walking  feebly,  was  His  Holiness; 
but  the  distance  was  too  great  to  distinguish 
features.  When  we  reached  the  lantern  beneath 
the  gilded  cross  surmounting  all,  we  came  to  an 
iron  ladder  leading  to  the  ball,  and  desiring  to 
see  the  views  from  those  narrow  windows  open- 
ing on  every  side,  her  ladyship  directed  me  to 
stand  at  the  foot  of  the  ladder  until  she  climbed 
to  this  highest  point  above  the  church. 

To  really  see  the  famed  Roman  churches 
would  take  months.  Lady  Emily  especially 
likes  Santa  Maria  Maggiore  and  the  extremely 
ancient  memorial  to  Saint  John  near-by;  also 


TRAVELS   OF   A  LADY'S   MAID  285 

a  very  grand  church  built  in  honour  of  Saint 
Paul,  outside  the  walls  of  Rome,  near  where  this 
apostle,  it  is  believed,  suffered  martyrdom.  The 
Americans  have  a  smaller  church,  known  as 
Saint  Paul's,  inside  the  walls,  and  to  this  her 
ladyship  walked  for  afternoon  service  on  Palm 
Sunday. 


CHAPTER   LIV 

NEVER  was  sunshine  brighter  nor  air  softer 
than  on  Easter  morning,  when,  after  days  of 
silence  and  gloom,  all  the  bells  of  Rome  rang 
out  most  jubilantly.  The  English  church  was 
crowded  at  the  morning  service  and  throughout 
the  day,  early  and  late,  sight-seers  and  relic- 
venerating  pilgrims,  drawn  to  Rome  from  be- 
yond distant  seas,  as  well  as  goatskin  clad 
peasants,  thronged  public  squares  and  churches 
enjoying  the  brilliant  sights  and  grand  inspir- 
ing music.  That  joyous  festival  ended  with 
vespers,  at  a  convent  above  those  stone  steps 
leading  from  the  Spanish  square  to  the  Pincian, 
where,  behind  latticed  barriers,  the  nuns'  sweet 
singing  charmed  all  listeners. 

Easter  Monday  an  excursion,  arranged  by 
one  of  the  ambassadors,  was  made  in  motor-cars 
to  Ostia,  formerly  a  noted  harbour  beyond  Rome. 
The  Earl  and  Lady  Emily  did  not  return  to 
the  hotel  until  ten  o'clock.  Two  tires  of  the 
Ambassador's  car  having  been  punctured,  and 
the  machinery  of  their  own  giving  out,  involved 
a  wait  of  exasperating  hours  by  the  roadside, 
until  assistance  came  and  repairs  could  be  made. 
The  following  evening  the  Countess  attended  a 

286 


TRAVELS   OF   A  LADY'S   MAID  287 

reception  at  the  King's  palace.  Their  Majes- 
ties are  devoted  to  each  other,  to  the  little  prin- 
cesses and  to  the  charming  Queen  Dowager,  the 
children  paying  daily  visits  to  their  royal  grand- 
mamma when  Her  Majesty,  —  who  is  fond  of 
touring  the  country  by  motor,  —  is  in  Rome. 

One  day  that  week,  following  Easter,  the  Earl 
entertained  at  luncheon  those  guests  from  the 
Embassy  with  whom  his  lordship  and  Lady 
Emily  were  always  making  long  riding  expedi- 
tions to  the  Campagna,  or,  beyond  the  ruins 
there,  to  villas  and  lakes  among  the  hills  sur- 
rounding the  ancient  city.  As  the  last  course 
was  served  a  despatch  came  and  was  handed  at 
once  to  the  Earl  by  Mr.  Stubbs,  who  remained 
in  the  dining-room  long  enough  to  ascertain  that 
it  was  from  the  Viceroy,  and  brought  bad  news. 
The  cable,  a  lengthy  message  in  code,  or  cipher, 
told  that  Sir  Francis  had  met  with  most  serious 
injury  on  a  hunting  party  with  some  German 
princes  then  visiting  India,  and  begged  the  Earl 
should  see,  if  possible,  his  mother,  Lady  Char- 
lotte, who  was  in  Italy,  possibly  in  Sicily,  but 
more  probably  in  Ravello,  her  ladyship  having 
ordered  her  touring-car  to  be  at  Naples  directly 
after  Easter,  in  order  to  go  to  the  Italian  lakes 
for  a  fortnight,  before  returning  to  England. 

Lady  Charlotte,  having  spent  the  winter 
abroad  on  account  of  ill  health,  at  present  was 
alone  with  a  travelling  companion  and  maid. 
Fearing  the  effects  of  sudden  shock  to  her  lady- 
ship, in  hearing  that  her  only  son  was  dan- 


288  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

gerously  injured,  among  Indian  jungles,  thou- 
sands of  miles  separating  them,  the  Earl  imme- 
diately inquired  regarding  trains  south,  and  tele- 
graphed Lady  Charlotte's  bankers  in  Naples, 
who  replied  that  her  ladyship,  having  arrived 
from  Palermo  that  morning,  had  gone  directly 
to  the  hotel  where  she  usually  stopped,  —  about 
an  hour  from  Naples,  —  and  would  probably 
remain  there  several  days. 

His  lordship  decided  to  leave  by  the  night 
train  for  Naples,  returning  to  Rome  as  soon  as 
he  had  broken  the  news  to  Lady  Charlotte,  and 
ascertained  her  wishes.  Mr.  Stubbs  concluded 
the  trip  meant  two  or  three  days'  absence,  at 
longest,  from  one  portmanteau  only  being  taken, 
and  said  the  hotel  where  Lady  Charlotte  stopped 
was  the  house  at  which  we  lunched  on  leaving 
Sorrento.  Its  name  in  Italian  means:  "Health 
can  here  be  found." 

Before  noon,  the  following  day,  having  occa- 
sion to  pass  through  the  Countess's  reception- 
room,  I  found  there  that  beautiful  lady  Mr. 
Stubbs  called  "  The  American  Duchess,"  and, 
stopping  to  straighten  things  in  the  Countess's 
chamber,  I  overheard  Lady  Emily  say  to  the 
visitor,  they  felt  greatly  distressed  at  having  bad 
news  from  a  cousin  in  India,  consequently  the 
Earl  had  left  Rome  the  night  before,  hoping  to 
meet  Lady  Charlotte  in  Naples,  though,  shortly 
before  the  Duchess's  visit,  a  telegram  informed 
them  he  had  missed  Lady  Charlotte  by  half  an 
hour. 


TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S   MAID  289 

Her  ladyship's  plans  had  been  unexpectedly 
changed  on  account  of  a  slight  accident  to  her 
chauffeur,  —  a  hot  cinder  having  gotten  into  his 
eye  caused  inflammation  requiring  hospital  treat- 
ment and  complete  rest.  He  probably  would  be 
unfit  for  duty  for  a  fortnight,  and  Lady  Char- 
lotte, being  extremely  nervous  with  any  other 
chauffeur,  determined  to  go  by  sea  to  Genoa, 
and  —  these  particulars  I  learned  later  from  Mr. 
Stubbs  —  finding  an  especially  desirable  cabin 
available  on  the  German  steamer  then  in  port, 
and  also  being  disappointed  that  the  suite  usually 
reserved  for  her  in  the  hotel  near  Naples  could 
not  be  given  up  because  the  Russian  Grand 
Duke  then  occupying  it  was  detained  by  illness 
following  a  recent  surgical  operation,  Lady 
Charlotte  did  not  even  unpack.  Spending  one 
night  only  at  the  hotel,  she  sent  her  maid  to  the 
bankers  for  the  letters  on  her  way  to  the  steamer 
the  next  morning.  The  Earl,  much  tried  at 
missing  Lady  Charlotte,  caught  the  express  for 
Genoa,  without  stopping  in  Rome. 

The  same  evening  after  her  Grace's  visit,  I 
was  waiting  for  Lady  Emily,  who  had  not  yet 
returned  from  riding,  the  weather  having  turned 
colder  suddenly,  and  it  being  later  than  the  hour 
she  usually  came  in,  I  closed  the  windows  of  her 
ladyship's  room,  and  lighted  a  stick  or  two  in 
the  small  fireplace,  so  the  room  might  be  com- 
fortably warm  when  her  ladyship  dressed  for 
dinner.  A  moment  later  I  heard  her  step  in 
the  corridor.  Pausing  at  the  door  instead  of 


290   TRAVELS   OF   A  LADY'S   MAID 

the  usual  pleasant  word  or  look  towards  me, 
her  ladyship  went  straight  to  the  window,  fling- 
ing it  wide  open,  exclaiming  sharply,  "  Why  do 
you  never  air  this  room?  The  heat  is  simply 
unendurable." 

Seeing  her  ladyship  looked  flushed  and  fa- 
tigued, I  did  not,  of  course,  explain  that  the 
windows  had  been  closed  barely  five  minutes; 
but  stood  near  the  large  chair,  into  which  she 
had  thrown  herself,  and  waited  to  take  her  rid- 
ing hat  and  gloves.  When  her  ladyship's  rin- 
gers touched  mine,  they  were  as  cold  as  ice.  I 
begged  to  ring  for  tea,  but  Lady  Emily  said  it 
was  too  late.  A  pelting  shower  had  detained 
them,  and  finally  obliged  sheltering  near  some 
ruins,  as  one  of  the  young  ladies  in  the  party, 
unaccustomed  to  riding,  became  rather  hyster- 
ical and  feared  to  go  on.  It  being  nearly  seven, 
her  ladyship  would  dress  in  ten  minutes,  two  or 
three  guests,  invited  the  week  before,  having 
promised  to  dine  with  the  Countess  that  evening. 
I  waited  twenty  minutes,  but  Lady  Emily  still 
sat  in  her  habit  by  the  fire,  the  windows  open  at 
one  side.  She  had  not  given  me  her  riding  stick 
and  was  tracing  figures  with  it  on  the  carpet, 
or  fanning  herself  with  a  magazine  picked  up 
from  the  table  near-by.  Not  a  word  had  been 
spoken  until  her  ladyship  directed  me  to  bring 
a  black  mousseline  de  soie,  instead  of  the  pale 
green  taffeta  I  had  laid  out  for  that  evening. 
As  the  gown  had  to  be  shaken  out  —  it  having 
been  folded  away  on  the  bottom  of  the  long 


TRAVELS   OF  A   LADY'S   MAID  291 

upholstered  chest  in  the  dressing-room  —  and 
Lady  Emily  was  very  slow  in  dressing,  the 
clocks  were  striking  eight  before  her  ladyship 
started  for  the  dining-room.  I  felt  uneasy  about 
Lady  Emily,  for  though  she  had  not  seemed 
quite  well  since  the  motor-car  trip  to  Ostia,  I 
never  had  seen  her  ladyship  so  exhausted;  but 
there  was  no  one  to  whom  I  could  then  speak. 

It  was  barely  ten  o'clock  when  her  ladyship 
came  back.  I  was  to  go  to  the  Countess,  but 
must  say  nothing  as  to  the  cold  her  ladyship 
believed  the  chill  of  the  afternoon  would  prob- 
ably result  in,  and  now  that  the  guests  had  gone 
on  to  some  entertainment,  she  was  thankful  to 
say  she  could  go  to  bed  early.  When  I  re- 
turned from  the  Countess's  room  Lady  Emily 
still  sat  in  the  large  chair,  fanning  herself, 
though  a  strong  breeze  was  blowing  upon  her 
from  the  open  windows  on  the  other  side  of  the 
room,  and  evidently  so  feverish  that  I  felt  sorry 
I  had  not  disobeyed  and  told  her  ladyship  that 
Lady  Emily  was  ill. 

Being  then  too  late  to  disturb  the  Countess,  I 
decided  to  unfasten  the  dressing-room  door,  and 
after  Lady  Emily  was  in  bed,  I  would  slip  out 
that  way  to  my  own  room,  get  a  covering  of 
some  sort  and  spend  the  night  on  the  large  box, 
or  in  a  chair,  where,  in  case  her  ladyship  wanted 
anything,  I  should  be  instantly  at  hand.  For 
a  long  while  Lady  Emily  tossed  about  uneasily, 
very  restless  and  breathing  hard  and  hoarsely, 
but  finally  slept.  Many  times  during  the  night, 


292  TRAVELS   OF   A   LADY'S   MAID 

quivering  with  apprehension,  I  stood  at  the 
dressing-room  door,  but  dared  not  enter  the 
next  room,  fearing  I  might  startle  Lady  Emily. 
But  at  last,  when  daybreak  came,  as  she  stirred 
restlessly,  murmuring,  as  if  in  pain,  I  crept 
softly  to  her  bedside.  Her  ladyship  raised  her 
head  a  little,  opening  her  eyes,  but  seemed  hardly 
to  know  me,  and  muttering  half  to  herself, 
"  Less  light,  the  sun  kills  in  India,"  turned 
toward  the  wall  again  breathing  most  heavily. 

Thoroughly  alarmed,  I  went  quickly  to  the 
Countess,  who,  as  soon  as  she  saw  Lady  Emily, 
sent  immediately  for  the  doctor.  After  seeing 
Lady  Emily,  her  ladyship's  temperature  was 
not  satisfactory,  he  said,  nor  did  he  like  the 
symptoms  of  exhaustion;  but  would  return  an 
hour  later,  as  consultations  obliged  his  going  to 
the  hospital  before  that  time. 

On  the  doctor's  second  visit,  he  informed  the 
Countess  that  his  apprehensions  were  justified, 
and  as  he  feared,  Lady  Emily  suffered  with 
pneumonia,  caused,  doubtless,  by  exposure  when 
over-heated,  and  in  a  run-down  condition,  on 
the  Campagna  at  nightfall,  and  that  he  must 
not  disguise  his  anxiety  in  finding  that  both 
lungs  appeared  to  be  involved.  A  great  blow 
this  to  the  Countess,  and  especially  in  the  Earl's 
absence.  The  doctor  summoned,  by  messenger, 
a  trained  nurse,  a  young  English  woman  then 
in  Perugia,  with  a  convalescent  patient,  no 
longer  needing  her  services;  and  Sister  Claudia, 


TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S   MAID  293 

a  favourite  fever  nurse  of  the  doctor's,   came 
without  delay. 

Hearing  from  the  Earl  that  slightly  more  re- 
assuring news  had  been  received  from  Sir  Fran- 
cis, and  knowing  his  lordship  would  return  to 
Rome  as  soon  as  he  could  leave  Lady  Charlotte, 
the  Countess  did  not  telegraph,  and  it  was  late 
the  following  day  when  the  Earl  arrived  from 
Milan,  where  he  had  overtaken  Lady  Charlotte. 


CHAPTER   LV 

THE  ceaseless  anxiety  of  days  that  followed 
seems  now  a  nightmare  of  suspense  and  despair. 
Skilled  physicians  consulted,  devoted  nurses 
watched,  and  my  dear  young  mistress  slowly, 
steadily  slipped  from  the  grasp  of  those  who 
would  have  given  their  lives  to  save  hers.  Rome 
was  deserted  by  its  gay  throngs  of  Easter  visit- 
ors, and  the  very  air  heavy  and  lifeless.  Mes- 
sengers came  daily,  from  those  remaining  at  the 
Embassy,  with  fruits  and  flowers,  and  more  than 
once,  the  Queen  sent  her  lady-in-waiting.  Of 
these  kind  inquiries  and  attentions  Lady  Emily 
knew  nothing.  The  Countess  could  scarcely  be 
persuaded  to  leave  the  sickroom,  but  repeatedly 
the  Earl  insisted  that  an  hour's  drive  in  the  fresh 
air  should  be  taken,  while  his  lordship  remained 
near  Lady  Emily;  and  it  seemed  comforting  to 
her  ladyship  to  have  me  go  with  her.  She  al- 
ways directed  the  coachman  to  drive  to  the  Prot- 
estant Cemetery,  telling  me,  the  first  morning 
we  went  there,  that  her  own  mother  and  sister 
had  been  laid  to  rest  in  that  peaceful  spot  close 
to  St.  Paul's  Gate  and  outside  the  Roman  walls, 
almost  in  the  shadow  of  the  tomb  where,  nearly 
two  thousand  years  ago,  Cestius  was  laid;  so, 

294 


TRAVELS   OF  A   LADY'S   MAID  295 

as  a  young  girl,  the  Countess  had  gone  there 
before,  in  despairing  distress. 

I  recollected  then  what  Mrs.  Bufers  had 
spoken  of  at  Ortham.  The  Duke,  the  Count- 
ess's father,  as  is  well  known,  was  a  more  lively, 
excitable  gentleman  than  most  ladies  like  as 
husbands,  and  after  the  death  of  his  last  son 
—  four  or  five  children  having  died  in  infancy, 
none  but  the  Countess,  her  sister  and  one  boy 
living  the  first  year  out  —  just  as  there  was  hope 
declining  years  might  be  more  profitably  spent 
the  Duke  started  on  a  long  yachting  cruise, 
leaving  no  address,  but  taking  with  his  Grace 
a  very  disorderly,  carousing  company  of  men 
and  women.  After  these  journeyings  began, 
the  Duchess,  with  her  two  little  daughters,  spent 
years  travelling;  living  on  the  Continent,  at 
Hanover,  Stuttgart  and  Munich,  coming  one 
winter  to  Rome,  for  the  second  time,  when  the 
Countess  was  fifteen. 

Repeatedly,  rumours  came  —  later  proven 
false  —  of  the  Duke's  death  by  one  disaster  or 
another ;  consequently,  in  again  hearing  that  the 
yacht  had  been  wrecked,  in  a  terrible  tornado 
on  the  Pacific,  the  tidings  were  not,  at  first,  be- 
lieved; but,  later,  absolute  confirmation  of  this 
report  was  given,  by  the  sailing  master,  who  for 
days  had  drifted  in  a  life  boat,  alone  with  a 
cabin  boy,  and  the  pet  cat,  a  mascot  which  the 
little  chap  had  risked  his  own  life  to  save,  when 
the  yacht  was  driven  upon  the  rocks.  Finally, 
more  dead  than  alive,  they  were  tossed  ashore 


296  TRAVELS   OF  A   LADY'S   MAID 

upon  an  island,  and  later  rescued  from  these 
perilous  surroundings  by  the  crew  of  a  sailing 
vessel  bound  for  the  Pitcairn  Islands. 

The  Duchess,  spent  with  anxiety  and  grief 
over  the  death,  from  diphtheria,  of  her  youngest 
child,  the  Countess's  only  surviving  sister,  whom 
she  had  nursed  through  days  of  intense  suffering, 
died,  almost  without  making  effort  to  live,  beg- 
ging her  companion,  who  was  also  the  Countess's 
governess,  to  see  that  her  dying  wishes  were  car- 
ried out,  and  her  body  left  in  undisturbed  peace 
by  the  side  of  her  little  girl  in  the  Cemetery  at 
Rome.  The  desolate,  despondent  Duchess  de- 
parted this  world  with  but  one  regret,  —  the 
unsettled  future  of  her  only  child. 

The  Countess,  orphaned  before  she  was  six- 
teen, went  immediately  to  her  grandmother  in 
Scotland,  remaining  there  until  her  marriage, 
three  years  later,  with  the  Earl,  a  playfellow  of 
her  childhood,  and  connected  by  ties  of  blood 
with  her  mother's  family.,  When  the  Countess 
was  nearly  twenty,  the  heir,  Lady  Emily's  eld- 
est brother,  was  born,  bringing  greatest  rejoicing 
over  this  event,  the  coming  of  the  first  son  ex- 
cepting his  lordship,  in  three  generations,  to  that 
branch  of  the  Earl's  family.  Before  his  second 
birthday  the  happy  young  parents  took  their 
baby  to  spend  a  month  with  its  venerable  Scotch 
grandmother  in  the  Highlands,  greatly  rejoic- 
ing, too,  in  again  revisiting  the  scenes  of  their 
own  courtship  and  marriage.  A  large,  light- 
hearted  company  assembled  in  the  rather  gloomy 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  297 

old  castle,  where  entertainments  and  excursions 
added  to  the  enjoyment  of  each  day.  The 
Countess  was  among  the  gayest,  and,  being 
young  and  inexperienced,  noticed  nothing  amiss 
with  the  heir.  The  child  looked  the  picture  of 
rosy,  perfect  health;  but  his  strength  must  have 
been  slowly  undermined  by  a  poisonous  drain 
that  later,  it  was  found,  opened  into  the  nursery. 

From  revels  over  some  distant  laird's  home- 
coming, a  Highland  torchlight  procession  and 
ball,  the  Countess  was  hastily  summoned  —  a 
night's  ride  from  the  Castle,  though  delayed 
several  hours  longer  owing  to  swollen  streams 
having  destroyed  the  bridges  —  to  find  her  only 
child  in  convulsions,  dying  in  his  great-grand- 
mother's arms.  It  was  this  grief  that  shadowed 
the  Countess's  early  life,  leaving  a  delicacy  of 
constitution  which  always  remained.  Years  later, 
after  months  of  illness,  the  next  heir,  Lord  Gla- 
morden,  came. 

The  Countess  had  presentiments  of  sorrow  in 
coming  to  Rome,  remembering  her  girlish  dis- 
tress and  desolation  when  bereaved  there  of  her 
mother  and  sister;  but  happy  years  had  softened 
that  keen  pain,  which  the  present  days  of  anxiety 
seemed  to  bring  back. 

As  we  were  returning  to  the  hotel  that  morn- 
ing, driving  through  the  Forum,  and  passing  a 
fine  old  stone  arch  with  the  seven-branched  can- 
dlestick engraven  upon  it,  the  Countess  told  me 
she  remembered  her  mother  saying,  it  was  truth 
a  noble  Frenchwoman  wrote  when  she  said, 


"  having  suffered  much  is  like  understanding 
many  languages;"  and  that  sadly  unhappy 
Duchess  could  not  but  know,  from  experience, 
whereof  she  spoke. 

One  afternoon  when,  for  days,  Lady  Emily 
had  lain  with  little  perceptible  change  in  her  con- 
dition of  extreme  weakness,  —  intervals  of  fever 
followed  by  unconsciousness,  —  I  begged  nurse 
Neale  to  let  me  watch  while  she  rested.  I  could 
neither  sleep  nor  eat  those  days;  and  it  never 
tired  me,  —  though  grieving  beyond  expression 
to  witness  sufferings  I  was  powerless  to  relieve, 
-  to  sit,  as  I  did  that  afternoon,  hoping  I  might 
be  of  use,  behind  the  head  of  her  ladyship's  bed, 
which  had  been  drawn  from  the  wall  so  that  all 
air  possible  might  reach  the  sufferer.  In  a  large 
chair  the  Countess  sat  near  the  foot  of  the  bed, 
a  book  in  her  hand;  that  small,  white  vellum 
one  written  by  Father  Kempis,  the  gift  of  her 
mother,  always  kept  upon  her  ladyship's  dress- 
ing-table. The  pages,  I  noticed,  were  seldom 
turned,  though  her  ladyship  had  not  left  the 
room  for  hours.  The  door  opened  noiselessly; 
it  must  be  Sister  Claudia  returning  from  some 
outside  errands,  I  thought;  but  it  was  the  Earl 
who  entered,  hesitating  a  moment  on  the  thresh- 
old. His  lordship  glanced  towards  the  bed,  his 
eyes  lingering  tenderly  upon  Lady  Emily,  who 
just  then  appeared  to  be  most  calmly  resting. 
The  high  screens  of  soft  green  silk  before  the 
windows  darkened  that  side  of  the  room  where 
the  Countess  sat;  and  the  Earl  walked  swiftly, 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  299 

though  a  little  falteringly,  towards  her  chair,  a 
look  strong  and  exalted  shining  upon  his  face, 
such  as  I  never  had  seen  before,  whether  of 
greatest  joy,  or  the  deepest  anguish,  I  could  not 
tell.  Placing  his  hand  on  the  Countess's  shoul- 
der, I  heard  the  words  quietly  spoken  that 
burned  and  echoed  in  my  brain.  "  Dearest,  you 
—  we  —  must  be  brave  —  our  child  may  no 
longer  need  our  care.  A  change,  the  doctors 
think,  must  come  before  night." 

How  I  reached  my  room  I  never  can  tell; 
but  as  I  dragged  myself,  stunned,  groping  and 
stumbling  through  corridors  that  seemed  endless, 
I  remember  repeating,  "  A  change  must  come 
before  night,"  and  feeling  fervently  thankful 
that  in  those  last  hours  of  despairing  agony  the 
Earl  and  Countess  were  alone  with  their  child. 


CHAPTER   LVI 

WEEKS  passed,  blank  to  me,  save  for  moments 
of  desperate  weakness  and  half-comprehended 
pain,  before,  suddenly  wakening  from  the  stu- 
por caused  by  fever,  in  which,  all  unknown  to 
me,  my  life  had  nearly  burned  away,  for  the 
first  time  I  became  conscious  of  the  touch  of 
strong,  caressing  hands  upon  my  throbbing 
brows,  and  looking  up  saw  Sister  Claudia's  kind 
face  bending  over  me.  Her  steadfast  eyes  met 
mine  with  such  a  friendly  look ;  her  smooth  cheeks 
glowing  with  colour,  faint  and  soft  as  an  in- 
fant's. As  if  under  some  uncanny  spell,  be- 
wildered and  speechless,  I  gazed  upon  her,  and 
about  the  unfamiliar  room;  feeling  that  she 
could  perhaps  tell  me  how,  through  chilling  mists 
and  darkness,  I  had  struggled  back  to  this  earth, 
from  far-away  regions  of  mystery  and  silence; 
but  my  lips  could  not  frame  the  only  question 
my  heart  wished  to  ask.  Seeming  to  divine  my 
thoughts,  Sister  Claudia  came  nearer;  taking 
both  my  hands  firmly,  and  pressing  the  palms 
gently  together,  she  said,  '  Thank  the  good 
Lord,  dear  child,  Lady  Emily  lives."  Then 
again  I  seemed  sinking  and  slipping  from  all 
that  living  means,  and  I  know  now,  death  can 

300 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  301 

never  come  to  me  as  a  stranger.  Little  by  little 
-as  for  days  Sister  Claudia  refused  to  permit 
but  few  words  spoken,  the  only  thing  she  was 
severe  about  —  that  long  interval  of  half -con- 
sciousness became  clearer. 

When  all  hope  had  been  given  up,  and  they 
believed  Lady  Emily  dying,  a  sudden,  wonder- 
ful change  came;  the  strong  forces  of  her  brave, 
young  life  hurled  themselves  —  for  so  Sister 
Claudia  described  this  change  that  caused  such 
joy  —  against  the  disease  that  had  almost  con- 
quered, and  with  vitality  such  as  the  doctors  had 
never  before  seen  equalled  she  turned  from  the 
open  grave  towards  renewed  life.  Powers,  be- 
yond understanding,  gave  back,  in  God's  Provi- 
dence, the  precious  daughter  who  had  already 
passed,  it  was  believed,  beyond  the  changes  and 
chances  of  this  mortal  life. 

Lady  Emily's  strong,  unbroken  constitution 
helped  towards  an  amazing  recovery,  and,  by  the 
time  I  knew  she  had  not  left  us,  her  ladyship  was 
with  the  Countess  at  Varese,  among  the  lakes 
of  Italy.  Lord  Frederic,  her  ladyship's  uncle, 
having  sent  his  yacht,  the  short  voyage  was  ac- 
complished with  little  fatigue,  and  everything 
promised  speedy  convalescence,  if  no  relapse  oc- 
curred. The  dear  Countess  wrote  many,  many 
charges,  unneeded  though  they  were,  to  good 
Sister  Claudia,  as  to  my  care,  insisting  that  daily 
letters  should  tell  her  just  how  I  was  getting 
on,  absolutely  the  quietest  room  in  the  hospital 
must  be  mine,  and  every  attention  given,  night 


302  TRAVELS   OF  A   LADY'S  MAID 

and  day,  until  I  was  strong  enough  to  drive  out 
and,  under  Sister  Claudia's  care,  rejoin  her  lady- 
ship at  Varese,  where  they  intended  remaining 
several  weeks  longer. 

When  Mr.  Stubbs's  letters  began  coming,  I 
learned  many  details,  he  liking  to  write  of  all 
going  on,  or  of  everything  likely  to  happen. 
One  or  two  short  notes  came  from  Varese,  tell- 
ing me  a  special  train  had  most  satisfactorily 
conveyed  the  Earl's  party  to  that  place,  by  way 
of  Milan,  and  that  the  entire  second  floor  of  the 
hotel,  on  the  side  towards  Monte  Rosa,  was 
reserved ;  and  in  the  higher  air  Lady  Emily  con- 
tinued gaining  in  a  way  surprising  even  nurse 
Neale,  who  always  was  extremely  sanguine  re- 
garding her  cases.  After  that  week,  the  assist- 
ant only  of  the  Roman  doctor  who  had  accom- 
panied Lady  Emily  to  Varese  would  remain. 
Four  or  five  days  after  the  last  note  from  Italy, 
this  letter  came,  dated,  I  was  astonished  to  see, 
at  Ortham. 

"DEAR  Miss  BURNS:  —  Hearing  good  ac- 
counts of  your  continued  improvement  in  health 
is  indeed  welcome  news  to  me,  and,  now  you  are 
recovering,  it  will  be  helpful  rather  than  harm- 
ful for  you  to  hear  of  present  doings.  First, 
you  will  want  to  know  that  Lady  Emily  gains 
without  sign  or  suggestion  of  a  set-back,  though 
my  feeling  is,  none  can  be  too  sure  about  any- 
thing in  this  moving  world;  and  sundry  sur- 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  303 

prising  changes  come,  as  you  will  see  before 
finishing  this  letter. 

"  Repeated  telegrams  from  India  gave  little 
that  was  hopeful  of  recovery  for  Sir  Francis. 
Finally  came  a  long  message,  saying  that  by  slow 
stages  —  the  hunting  party  having  been  with  the 
Governor-General  of  Bengal  somewhere  in  those 
wild  regions  north  of  Bombay  —  Sir  Francis 
had  been  carried  to  that  city  for  surgical  treat- 
ment, and  the  internal  injuries,  considered  ex- 
tremely alarming  at  first,  appeared  to  be  far 
less  dangerous  than  anticipated.  He  was,  too, 
recovering  from  the  shock  of  having  been 
dragged  by  his  horse,  over  rough  paths,  to 
where  the  party  intended  to  have  mounted  ele- 
phants for  the  tiger  hunt.  The  wounds  caused 
by  striking  his  head  upon  the  stones  were  the 
most  serious,  but  were  healing  nicely,  and  the 
broken  arm  knitting  well  also.  Nothing  did  Sir 
Francis  quite  so  much  good  as  the  Earl's  cable, 
inviting  him  to  come  direct  to  Italy  when  strong 
enough  to  travel. 

"  I  may  as  well  enclose  Mr.  Varley's  letter,  for 
that  gives  a  hint,  and  more,  of  how  matters 
stand.  There  never  was  a  shadow  of  objection 
to  Sir  Francis,  though  some  straight-laced  people 
might  think  him  a  trifle  lavish  in  his  way  of 
spending,  and  a  little  daring  and  reckless  as  to 
his  own  safety,  or  others'  views  about  his  wel- 
fare; but  you  may  as  well  know  that  Lady 
Emily  might  have  had  the  strawberry  leaves, 


304  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

with  one  of  the  oldest  titles  of  the  realm,  had 
she  so  minded. 

"  I  mention  no  names ;  but  the  Duke  is  a  man 
of  whom  any  woman  can  be  proud;  not  the 
newly-made  variety  —  and  was,  long  before  his 
first  marriage,  one  of  the  Earl's  closest  friends. 
Having  been  a  great  traveller  since  the  death  of 
the  Duchess,  his  Grace  did  not  see  Lady  Emily 
for  years,  until  they  met  on  her  sixteenth  birth- 
day, I  think  it  was,  and  again  at  Hurlingham, 
when  Lord  Glamorden's  favourite  pony  was  on 
the  winning  polo  team. 

"  His  Grace  ran  down  to  Ortham  twice  before 
we  sailed  for  the  States ;  you  may  recollect  those 
mauve  orchids,  worn  by  the  Countess  at  Liver- 
pool; these  came  from  the  Duke's  conservatory, 
brought  by  his  own  hands  when  taking  leave  on 
the  steamer.  From  bits  of  conversation,  and  a 
word  here  and  there,  I  gather  that  no  proposals 
were  to  be  made  to  Lady  Emily  until  after  her 
seventeenth  birthday;  and  no  definite  reply  to 
be  asked  until  returning  to  England,  the  Duke 
having  declared  he  would  gladly  wait  a  year  if 
necessary,  before  knowing  his  fate.  It  was  his 
Grace's  intention,  I  understand,  to  run  over  to 
Italy,  had  not  Lady  Emily's  illness  prevented, 
joining  the  Earl's  party  in  Florence,  I  believe, 
as  being  less  gossipy  than  Rome. 

"  Lady  Emily  had  always  liked  his  Grace,  con- 
sidering him,  naturally,  however,  simply  a  friend 
of  the  Earl's ;  but  had  it  not  been  for  Sir  Fran- 
cis, her  ladyship  doubtless  would  have  yielded 


TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S   MAID  305 

to  her  father's  wishes,  though  the  Earl  never 
was  one  to  unduly  force  his  children's  inclina- 
tions; but,  after  Calcutta,  I  have  very  good 
reason  for  believing  no  earthly  power  could  turn 
Lady  Emily  from  Sir  Francis,  though  they  do 
say  hearing  he  was  almost  dead  caused  her  lady- 
ship to  know  where  her  heart  was.  That  is  as 
may  be;  but  one  thing  is  certain,  both  began 
mending  about  the  same  time,  neither  knowing 
of  the  other's  condition. 

"  Miss  Neale  acknowledges  having  known  of 
similar  cases  before;  and  by  this  time  Sir  Fran- 
cis is  actually  on  his  way  to  Varese,  the  Bombay 
surgeons  having  declared  a  sea  voyage  and 
change  of  air  the  best  tonics  possible;  and  he 
will  find  his  mother  there,  —  or  rather,  Lady 
Charlotte  hopes  to  join  him  at  Brindisi,  —  as 
well  as  the  Countess  and  Lady  Emily. 

"  But  I  must  tell  you  how  we  came  to  be  back 
in  England.  Last  Thursday,  his  lordship  was 
breakfasting  at  the  time,  a  despatch  came.  He 
looked  much  disturbed  when  reading  it,  I  no- 
ticed, crumpling  the  telegram  hastily  into  his 
pocket  as  the  Countess  entered  the  room.  An 
hour  later,  summons  came  from  his  lordship,  and 
he  said,  *  Very  unexpected  news  from  Ortham, 
Stubbs.  The  entire  west  wing  has  been  des- 
troyed by  fire.  Lady  Glamorden's  pet  monkey 
appears  to  have  had  a  trick  of  playing  with 
matches;  or,  possibly,  crossed  wires  on  some  new 
electric  lighting  recently  put  in  caused  the  fire, 
which  smouldered  until  midnight,  breaking  out, 


306  TRAVELS   OF   A  LADY'S   MAID 

after  the  house  was  closed  for  the  night,  into 
uncontrollable  flames.'  His  lordship  went  on 
to  say  none  of  the  portraits  were  harmed,  the 
picture  gallery  being  in  the  east  wing;  but  they 
feared  the  effect  of  the  alarm  upon  Lady  Gla- 
morden,  in  her  present  delicate  condition,  and 
he  would  take  the  first  express,  to  catch  the  fast- 
est channel  service  for  London,  and  return  to 
Italy  as  soon  as  he  could  attend  to  any  matters 
requiring  his  lordship's  presence  at  Ortham, 

"So  this  is  the  history  of  our  being  at  the 
Towers  again;  and  natural,  solid,  and  very  nice, 
too,  it  do  look,  after  being  among  those  un- 
couth foreign  stucco  shams  abroad,  —  in  spite 
of  the  fire's  destruction.  The  walls  of  the  west 
wing  are  in  better  shape  than  at  first  was  feared, 
so  rebuilding  can  soon  begin;  and  as  for  Lord 
and  Lady  Glamorden,  they  are  never  apart,  and 
the  days  are  too  short  for  their  happiness.  The 
old  Spanish  rooms,  those  with  dark  wainscoting 
and  leather,  above  the  banqueting  hall,  you  re- 
member, are  being  done  over  and  refitted  for 
use  as  a  nursery,  until  the  rooms  facing  south  in 
the  new  wing  are  ready. 

'  You  can  keep  Mr.  Varley's  letter  until  we 
meet.  Meanwhile,  wishing  you  speedy  recovery 
from  all  ills,  and  every  prosperity, 

'  Yours  truly,  as  ever,  who  would  gladly  be 
much  more, 

"JOHN  STUBBS. 

"  P.  S.    I  shall,  of  course,  write  Varley  that  I 


TRAVELS   OF   A   LADY'S   MAID  307 

observed  all  he  mentions  in  Calcutta;  but  did 
not  consider  matters  sufficiently  advanced  to 
speak  decidedly." 

Mr.  Varley's  letter  was  written  from  Simla. 

"  DEAR  MR.  STUBBS  :  —  I  take  the  first  oppor- 
tunity coming  to  me,  my  duties  having  been 
unusually  heavy  this  past  week,  to  thank  you  for 
the  exceedingly  acceptable  gift  of  Turkish  to- 
bacco and  cigarettes.  The  latter  not  very  whole- 
some for  a  man's  use,  I  am  afraid;  but  all  the 
same,  I  am  remarkably  glad  to  get  a  supply, 
on  account  of  the  visiting  valets;  some  French 
and  Austrians  will  touch  nothing  else.  The 
patent  picnic  knife,  fork  and  spoon  combined, 
picked  up  in  Cairo,  you  tell  me,  comes  in  most 
handy,  too,  as  one  never  knows  what  may  turn 
up,  or  on  frontier  expeditions  how  far  you  may 
get  separated  from  supplies;  and  Wednesday 
we  have  orders  to  start  for  some  border  trip,  the 
exact  direction  or  meaning  of  which  I  have  not 
yet  been  able  to  discover;  but  the  knife  comes 
just  in  time. 

"  I  wonder  you  have  no  news  to  give  about 
Sir  Francis's  and  Lady  Emily's  affairs.  Our 
people  are  discussing  what  you  appear  not  to 
have  observed  at  Calcutta,  and  the  day  before 
the  Earl's  party  left  for  Darjeeling,  we  made 
sure  matters  came  to  a  climax,  hearing  very 
definitely  to  that  effect,  from  Hallins,  Sir  Fran- 
cis's groom.  Something  being  wrong  with  one 


308  TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S   MAID 

of  the  horses,  he  was  directed  by  the  head  coach- 
man to  find  Sir  Francis  at  Government  House 
or  in  the  gardens. 

"  Passing  down  the  steps  and  hearing  voices, 
he  found  Sir  Francis,  with  two  or  three  other 
gentlemen  and  ladies,  seated  beyond  the  terrace, 
where  there  is  more  shade  at  that  morning  hour. 
Hallins  hesitated  about  disturbing  the  party, 
and  then  heard  that  frisky  youngster,  Sir  Egbert 
Bettengen,  who  is  capering  through  India  with 
a  tutor  or  guardian  —  who,  though  he  looks  like 
a  petrified  boy  himself,  is  for  ever  pulling  his 
pupil  out  of  scrapes  —  say,  '  I'll  wager  any- 
thing you  like,  for  all  your  talk  about  Calcutta 
history,  you  never  can  take  Lady  Emily  direct 
to  the  Black  Hole,  without  asking  your  way.' 
Sir  Francis,  laughing  good-naturedly,  replied, 
—  'Very  well,  I  accept;  and  if  Lady  Emily 
consents  to  go  with  me  to-morrow,  you  can  send 
me  that  silver-mounted  turquoise  horse-shoe  I 
saw  you  wearing  at  the  races.'  The  other  ladies 
and  gentlemen  declared  they  would  follow  to 
see  fair  play.  Observing  Hallins  standing  near, 
Sir  Francis  directed  him  where  to  have  his  dog- 
cart, in  an  hour's  time,  adding  he  would  order 
a  victoria  to  be  ready  also,  in  case  any  of  the 
party  did  not  care  about  walking  back  to  Gov- 
ernment House  from  the  Black  Hole.  Then, 
learning  from  Hallins  of  the  wrongly-driven 
nail,  just  discovered  as  causing  the  mysterious 
lameness  to  his  hunter,  Sir  Francis  hurried  off, 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  309 

promising,  if  Lady  Emily  could  be  ready,  to 
start  in  half  an  hour. 

"  It  appears  Sir  Francis  did  know  exactly 
how  to  reach  the  scene  of  that  long-ago  tortur- 
ing, and  had  no  difficulty  whatever  in  convincing 
the  young  baronet,  years  Sir  Francis's  junior, 
—  you  know  Sir  Francis  is  barely  turned 
twenty-three,  if  I  am  not  mistaken  —  that  no 
inquiries  had  been  made  on  the  way;  and  then, 
while  Hallins  stood  at  the  horse's  head  outside 
the  Black  Hole  entrance,  he  felt  absolutely  con- 
vinced, from  Sir  Francis's  expression  in  hand- 
ing Lady  Emily  into  the  dog-cart,  that  some 
sort  of  understanding  had  been  arrived  at  be- 
tween them  on  the  trip  to  the  Black  Hole. 

"  Hallins  has  no  objection  to  a  little  gossip, 
he  declares,  or  to  listening,  in  a  general  way; 
otherwise,  '  'ow  should  we  know  what  is  going 
hon?  Wot  I  'ear  about  the  'ouse  and  stables  is 
public,'  he  says,  '  but  wot  I  over 'ears  in  a  dog- 
cart do  seem  more  secret,  private  like;  and  un- 
less concerning  myself,  never  repeats.'  So  he 
was  a  bit  stiff  in  letting  fall  anything  actually 
said  on  that  short  drive  returning  to  Govern- 
ment House.  He  do  claim,  also,  Sir  Francis 
has  been  more  than  generous  to  him,  and  has 
promised,  in  case  of  his  not  returning  to  Eng- 
land, that  he  will  give  Hallins's  sweetheart  her 
passage  to  India.  She  could  come  out  under 
the  stewardess's  care,  in  the  troop-ship,  and  after 
the  wedding  Sir  Francis  would  set  them  up  in 


310  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

a  nice  little  home  in  Calcutta;  or,  if  the  girl 
feared  to  come,  Hallins  could  return  to  England 
after  Easter,  and  he  will  set  him  up  there.  Very 
handsome  treatment,  I  must  say,  and  what  would 
be  expected  from  Sir  Francis,  especially  if  his 
own  thoughts  were  running  that  way. 

'  We  all  know,  of  course,  Lady  Emily  might 
make  a  better  match  in  the  way  of  rank  and 
riches;  but  look  it  up  in  the  Peerage  and  you 
will  see  the  Duke  is  nearly  her  own  father's  age, 
wonderfully  preserved  for  his  years,  though,  I 
grant  you.  You  know,  too,  there  is  a  chance, 
it  is  too  early  yet  to  speak  positively,  of  an  earl- 
dom's coming  to  Sir  Francis.  One  life  only,  - 
a  gentleman  always  travelling  with  plain  daugh- 
ters,—  is  between  him  and  his  cousin  (who  has 
bad  health  and  a  craze  for  motoring,  entering 
for  every  speeding  contest  though  never  win- 
ning, and  usually  falling  out,  or  coming  in  last 
—  at  home  or  abroad),  no  longer  a  very  young 
man;  and  that  baccarat  scandal  means  separa- 
tion already,  and  in  my  opinion  likely  to  be  a 
divorce. 

"  When  out  here,  after  touring  Africa,  he 
got  the  nickname  of  '  General  Ananias  of  the 
Torrid  Zone.'  His  simplest  anecdotes  set  the 
entire  table  staring  at  one  another,  biting  their 
lips  and  breathlessly  wondering  what  would 
come  next.  I  myself  heard  him  telling  most 
seriously  of  a  tribe  of  tail-less  baboons,  among 
whom  he  had  somewhere  lived  in  the  forests, 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  311 

declaring  he  had  often  seen  these  creatures 
nimbly  extracting  the  finest  feathers  from  the 
wild  peacocks,  and  skilfully  weaving  them  into 
fans,  which  they  presented  to  the  lady  baboons 
for  use  as  sunshades  in  that  tropical  heat. 

"  In  any  case,  Sir  Francis  is  by  no  means  a 
pauper,  in  spite  of  his  father's  having  been  the 
gayest  of  sports,  a  spendthrift,  if  ever  there 
was  one  —  mortgaging  and  spending  every- 
thing he  could  lay  hands  on.  I  well  remember 
reading  of  those  wild  doings;  and  my  youngest 
brother,  —  never  a  credit  to  the  family,  who 
turned  to  bookmaking,  and  should  have  been 
put  in  the  madhouse,  —  told  me  incredible  sums 
were  thrown  away  through  his  devotion  to  the 
turf.  Sir  Francis  has  never  shown  the  least  in- 
clination that  way;  and  his  mother,  whose  own 
rather  decent  fortune  I  am  inclined  to  think 
was  securely  tied  up  to  keep  it  from  being 
squandered,  most  carefully  nursed  the  estates 
during  his  long  minority.  She  immediately 
rented  Stanhaven  House  to  the  richest  of  Bra- 
zilian diamond  merchants  for  a  long  term;  and 
even  the  shooting  lodge  near  Balmoral  brings 
in  over  a  thousand  pounds  a  year,  beyond  ex- 
penses, if  I  am  not  mistaken,  on  a  seven  years' 
lease  to  a  rich  American,  who  fancied,  and  must 
have,  just  that  site. 

"  Lady  Charlotte  herself,  to  my  certain 
knowledge,  went  down  to  Windsor,  living  in 
the  simplest  *  Buttons  and  petticoat '  fashion,  I 


312  TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

call  it,  no  proper  establishment,  —  so  as  to  be 
near  Sir  Francis  at  Eton;  and,  when  he  entered 
at  Christ  Church,  spent  most  of  her  time  with 
a  relative,  a  Dean  or  Canon  at  Banbury,  wishing 
to  be  within  easy  reach  of  Oxford. 

"  If  they  wanted  to  keep  Lady  Emily  heart- 
whole  for  his  Grace,  they  never  should  have 
taken  her  beyond  the  States.  Between  ourselves, 
I  don't  think  the  Countess  much  of  a  manager 
that  way;  and  Sir  Francis  is  credited  with  be- 
ing the  finest,  most  captivating  figure  of  an 
A.  D.  C.  we  ever  have  had  at  Government 
House,  and  one  you  would  find  it  hard  to  match 
in  London.  Well,  all  is  fair  in  love  or  war ;  and 
we  hope  Sir  Francis  will  win.  He  starts  with 
the  Viceroy  Wednesday  —  lately,  all  think  he 
has  rather  avoided  what  we  call  '  House  Duty,' 
that  is,  trotting  attendance  on  the  ladies,  and 
receiving  the  Viceroy's  visitors  —  and  then  goes 
tiger-hunting  (dangerous  sport  it  is)  with  those 
German  princelings  who  left  us  yesterday. 
Decidedly  harassing,  meddlesome  martinets,  we 
think  them,  scrutinizing  everybody  and  every- 
thing in  a  most  arrogant  fashion. 

'  You  may  write  me  down  a  very  undiscern- 
ing  man  if  this  Calcutta  business  does  not  result 
in  a  match. 

'  The  rains  will  soon  be  upon  us,  a  deluge, 
that  means,  among  these  slippery  Simla  hills, 
but  more  airy ;  better  sleeping  than  on  the  plains 
during  hot  weather. 

"  Thanking  you  for  your  acceptable  presents, 


TRAVELS   OF  A   LADY'S   MAID  313 

and  hoping  your  health  continues  good,  and  all 
your  interests  prospering,  I  am, 

"  Yours  truly, 

"  HENRY  VAELEY. 

"  P.  S.  We  have  it  fairly  accurate,  though 
misleading  hints  were  thrown  out  as  to  '  official 
business/  that  Sir  F.'s  sudden  rushing  off  to 
Bombay  meant  he  reached  the  pier,  —  owing  to 
a  break-down  north  of  the  Hyderabid  division, 
-  precisely  half  an  hour  after  Lady  E.  steamed 
out  of  the  harbour.  There  has  been  considerable 
friction  and  censuring  between  the  Viceroy  and 
some  highly  placed  army  officials.  The  govern- 
ment does  make  preposterous  demands,  but  our 
position  defies  criticism.  It  will  blow  over,  how- 
ever, I  fancy,  and  I  hardly  think  we  shall  be  in 
London  this  season.  You  will  all  get  to  Ortham 
for  the  christening,  I  presume." 

Hearing  all  this  exciting  news  concerning  my 
dear  young  lady's  prospects  did  keep  me  from 
sleeping,  and  Sister  Claudia  threatened,  if  more 
letters  came,  to  hide  them  beyond  my  reach  until 
I  should  be  stronger. 


CHAPTER   LVII 

FIERCE  heat,  with  desert  winds  parching  one's 
skin  as  if  they  blew  from  the  depths  of  a  blazing 
crater,  came  before  the  doctors  and  Sister  Clau- 
dia were  willing  I  should  leave  Rome;  but  at 
last  pronounced  me  strong  enough  for  the  night's 
journey;  and  with  little  fatigue,  all  being  so 
kindly  planned,  we  reached  Varese. 

Lady  Emily  was  still  pale  and  listless;  a  day 
or  two  later,  however,  when  Sir  Francis  arrived 
from  Brindisi,  no  fault  could  be  found  with  her 
colour,  nor  her  spirits.  Poor  Sir  Francis  did 
look  the  very  ghost  of  his  former  self,  —  his 
cheeks  hollow,  and  his  coat  simply  hanging  about 
his  broad  shoulders.  The  fractured  left  arm, 
mending  slowly  in  the  hot  weather,  still  had  a 
lifeless,  shrunken  look.  However,  after  a  few 
days'  rest,  he  declared  himself  entirely  able  to 
wheel  Lady  Emily  in  the  invalid's  chair  in  which 
the  doctor  decreed  her  ladyship  should  spend 
hours  out  of  doors;  and  within  a  fortnight  both 
rode  on  mules  to  the  chapel  on  the  hill  top,  fol- 
lowing that  steep  path  by  the  calvary  stations. 

I  never  tire  watching  Monte  Rosa,  coming 
and  going  behind  the  clouds.  There  is  one  huge, 
spotless  snow-drift  far  away  that  has,  to  me,  the 
form  of  a  guardian  angel,  bending  over  as  if  to 

814 


protect  and  bless  a  distant  village  that  lies  be- 
yond the  nearer  hills.  The  Countess  insists  that 
I  shall  rest  for  weeks  longer,  everything  her 
ladyship  needs  being  done  by  Cecilia,  Lady 
Charlotte's  former  maid,  who  married  the  head- 
waiter  of  one  of  the  Roman  hotels,  and  is  glad 
to  return,  for  a  month  or  so,  to  her  former  duties. 

Owing  to  some  questions  regarding  rebuilding, 
the  Earl  was  detained  longer  than  anticipated; 
and  when  ready  to  leave  England  received,  from 
Prince  Henry  of  Prussia,  an  invitation  to  be 
present  at  Kiel  for  the  yacht  regatta;  so,  as 
Lady  Emily  continued  progressing  towards  com- 
plete recovery,  he  went  to  Germany,  —  having 
partly  promised  the  visit  a  year  earlier,  —  to 
attend  the  races,  consequently  did  not  reach 
Varese  until  the  week  before  we  left  for  Lucerne. 
I  then  learned  from  Mr.  Stubbs  that  although 
his  lordship  would  not  oppose  Lady  Emily's  — 
and  you  may  also  say  the  Countess's  —  wishes, 
he  positively  could  not  consent  to  any  formal 
betrothal  until  Lady  Emily  had  had  at  least 
part  of  a  season  in  London.  Mr.  Stubbs  is  of 
opinion,  this  determination  meant  seeing  the 
Duke  again,  his  lordship  being  decidedly  loth 
to  give  up  that  offer. 

The  Earl  was  rather  pleased  to  be  absent  from 
Varese  when  Sir  Francis  arrived,  hoping,  if 
Lady  Emily  met  with  no  opposition,  her  lady- 
ship might  of  her  own  accord  vere  'round  favour- 
ably towards  the  Duke  —  simply  deceiving  him- 
self with  false  hopes,  Mr.  Stubbs  says,  for  now 


316  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

Lady  Emily  would  never  yield.  Both  Sir  Fran- 
cis and  Lady  Emily  favour,  in  looks  and  ways, 
Mr.  Stubbs  has  been  told,  the  great  grandfather 
from  whom  both  are  descended,  —  a  rather 
strong-willed,  determined  gentleman. 

You  should  have  seen  her  ladyship's  face  that 
morning  she  had  Hallins  —  who  goes  back  to 
England  with  Sir  Francis  —  on  the  terrace,  to 
ask  particulars  of  the  accident,  the  doctor  having 
cautioned  her  ladyship  not  to  let  Sir  Francis 
talk  on  this  subject  as  yet.  Hallins  told  Lady 
Emily  about  picking  him  up,  bleeding  and  un- 
conscious, and  described  how  the  young  army 
surgeon  —  he  appears  to  have  been  little  more 
than  a  boy  —  declared  in  his  hearing,  as  his  fin- 
gers fumbled  for  Sir  Francis'  pulse,  "  I  don't 
think  he  will  live  to  be  moved." 

Hallins  said,  as  he  was  telling  about  examin- 
ing for  internal  injury,  and  probing  for  the 
head  wounds,  her  ladyship  went  as  white  as 
his  collar,  plainly  showing  her  devotion  to  Sir 
Francis.  Hallins  would  feel  very  thankful  in- 
deed should  his  Hannah  ever  express  such  feel- 
ing if  he  chances  to  get  smashed  up  in  a  run- 
away, or  breaks  his  neck  training  in  raw  tandem 
leaders. 

Another  day,  when  the  wind  blew  invigorat- 
ingly  fresh,  straight  from  the  Alps,  rather  smil- 
ingly perverse,  Lady  Emily  declared  that  posi- 
tively she  envied  Sir  Francis's  being  able  to  go 
by  motor  to  a  neighbouring  villa  where  that 
Italian  prince,  famous  as  an  explorer  and  moun- 


TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S   MAID  317 

tain  climber,  was  then  visiting,  and  who,  recall- 
ing earlier  mountaineering  expeditions  with  Sir 
Francis,  had  invited  his  lordship  to  breakfast. 
Lady  Emily  asserted  that  in  reading  accounts 
of  this  prince's  bravery,  her  heart  had  been  almost 
won,  and  later,  seeing  him  at  the  Opera,  and 
talking  with  him  at  that  last  Meet  of  the  season, 
outside  the  Porta  San  Paolo  at  Rome,  the  con- 
quest had  been  complete. 

Very  seriously,  apparently,  Sir  Francis  re- 
sponded that,  these  being  her  ladyship's  true  sen- 
timents, —  though  always  he  had  admired  the 
prince,  and  valued  his  friendship,  —  a  duel  with 
his  ducal  highness  seemed  inevitable;  and  under 
these  circumstances  he  had  best  perhaps,  de- 
cline his  hospitality.  Very  quickly  then  Lady 
Erinily  insisted  that  everybody  knew,  —  doubt- 
less solely  for  reasons  entirely  satisfactory  to 
himself,  —  that  unconquered  snows  alone  com- 
pelled the  prince's  homage,  and  positively  Sir 
Francis  must  not  deprive  her  of  the  pleasure 
anticipated  in  hearing  all  about  the  breakfast, 
and  the  prince's  latest  adventures.  This,  I  am 
sure,  Sir  Francis  did  relate  late  that  same  eve- 
ning, on  the  Countess's  balcony,  which  has  been 
partly  enclosed  by  glass  and  tall  rose  trees, 
ramblers,  white  and  red,  in  green  majolica  tubs, 
and  the  balustrades  screened  by  the  spiciest  of 
carnations,  many  varieties  in  full  bloom. 

After  resting  at  charming  places  on  Lakes 
Maggiore  and  Como  and  then  driving  under 
cloudless  skies  over  the  splendid  Simplon  Pass, 


a  few  days  were  spent  at  Lausanne,  on  Lake 
Geneva,  before  travelling  through  to  Paris  by 
rail. 

I  did  not  enjoy  those  gay  scenes  in  the  Bois, 
and  on  the  Boulevards,  nor  even  the  brilliantly 
lighted  arcades  of  the  Rue  de  Rivoli  and  Palais 
Royal  of  which  Mr.  Stubbs  has  so  often  talked, 
as  much  as  he  wanted  I  should,  and  was  truly 
delighted  on  hearing  the  Countess  say  that  after 
Lady  Emily  had  seen  the  galleries  —  her  lady- 
ship not  having  been  in  Paris  since  she  was 
thirteen  —  and  certain  orders  had  been  given  the 
dressmakers,  we  would  return  home.  Lady 
Emily  was  also  pleased,  I  think,  with  this  plan, 
Sir  Francis  having  left  the  party  on  reaching 
Paris,  intending  to  make  a  short  stay  in  Eng- 
land; then  a  hurried  visit  to  India  would  permit 
him  to  settle  his  affairs  there,  he  having  plans 
in  connection  with  Mayo  College  at  Agmere, 
and  for  improving  the  water  supply  in  some 
needy  regions  that  he  was  especially  anxious 
to  work  out  personally.  At  latest,  however, 
he  would  reach  home  again  by  Easter.  I 
don't  think  Lady  Emily  liked  contemplating 
this  possible  six  months'  absence,  but  I  heard 
Sir  Francis  protest  it  would  be  cowardly  not  to 
carry  out  the  work  planned  and  that  thinking  of 
her  would  now  inspire  and  be  woven  into  every 
effort  to  help  others  as  long  as  he  lived.  Some- 
thing, too,  was  said  about  having  a  ring  or 
bracelet  with  Mizpah  engraved  on  the  clasp,  and 
daily  letters. 


CHAPTER   LVIII 

ALMOST  the  first  home  face  —  for  we  stopped 
the  night  in  London  after  those  rough,  upsetting 
hours  on  the  Channel  —  was  Mary's.  How  glad 
we  were  to  meet  again!  and  kinder  and  pleas- 
anter  than  ever  she  did  look.  That  evening 
Aunt  Sarah's  stepson,  Sam,  came  to  see  me,  and 
—  I  may  as  well  write  it  down  at  once  —  I 
could  not  say  "  No  "  when  he  said,  "  Annie,  I 
need  you,  as  I  have  always  needed  you.  I  have 
neither  kith  nor  kin,  and  never  knew  a  mother 
but  Aunt  Sarah.  Tell  me  you  will  let  me  make 
you  a  home,  dear,  before  you  leave  again." 

It  is  just  his  way;  none  could  call  Sam  hand- 
some-featured. He  is  a  little  shorter  than  I  am, 
and  a  matter  of  a  few  months  younger;  bent- 
shouldered  like,  a  trifle,  too,  from  constant 
working;  but  such  honest  eyes,  under  wide 
brows,  and  chestnut  hair  waving  upon  his  fore- 
head in  a  very  pleasant  way.  He  was  never 
too  tired,  hard  as  he  always  has  been  forced  to 
work,  to  help  me  with  water-jugs,  or  errands 
at  Aunt  Sarah's,  when  early  and  late  I  had  to 
be  up,  waiting  on  the  lodgers;  and  after  father 
died,  Sam  —  just  a  small  lad  —  when  I  trimmed 
my  hat  with  black  ribbons,  put  a  mourning  band 

319 


320  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

on  his  sleeve,  thinking  it  might  seem  less  lone- 
some like,  I  being  without  kin  in  London.  Even 
at  that  age  Sam  was  always  reading,  poring  over 
pilgrimages,  crusades,  ancient  conflicts  and  the 
like,  when  he  got  the  chance,  sitting  up  winter 
nights  by  the  hall  light  left  burning  for  the 
benefit  of  Aunt  Sarah's  favourite  lodger,  a  pro- 
fessional contortionist,  and  flutist  at  dull  seasons. 
Often  have  I  heard  Aunt  Sarah  declare,  had  her 
last  husband  not  been  by  far  the  worst  of  the 
three,  she  would  take  her  courage  in  her  hands 
and  doff  her  cap  again,  he  having  such  winning 
ways  and  genteel  manners,  though  always  down 
in  his  luck  and  by  no  means  as  steady  in  his  habits 
as  she  could  wish ;  but  nothing  decided  ever  came 
of  the  courting  that  went  on  and  off  between 
them. 

Of  course  Mr.  Stubbs  did  think  —  that  is, 
when  on  the  Indian  Ocean  —  did  say,  he  dwelt 
more  and  more,  now  that  he  was  not  quite  so 
young  as  he  once  was,  on  man's  not  living  alone ; 
and  that  our  having  travelled  extensively  to- 
gether, and  getting  to  know  each  other's  ways 
and  feelings,  would  prevent  mistakes ;  and  some- 
time —  there  was  no  need  whatever  for  haste  - 
he  wanted  I  should  consider  becoming  the  second 
Mrs.  Stubbs.  After  being  at  Benares  it  came 
out,  owing  to  his  saying  nothing  would  ever 
induce  him  to  ask  his  widow  to  make  any  sacri- 
fices, such  as  burning  herself  for  him. 

One  never  could  tell  what  a  man  might  do 
until  he  got  the  chance,   I  said,   and  then  he 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  321 

explained  he  had  early  been  widowed,  but  his 
wife  not  having  lived  the  year  out,  few  knew  of 
his  marriage.  I  was  sorry,  naturally,  having 
always  admired  Mr.  Stubbs;  but  on  thinking 
more  of  Sam  when  I  lay  ill  in  Rome,  and  he 
being  so  faithful  writing,  —  seldom  missing  a 
Sunday,  —  and  I  having  mailed  my  letters  al- 
most as  constant,  I  made  up  my  mind  if  ever 
again  he  said  anything  definite,  —  he  having  been 
down  three  weeks  in  the  hospital  with  pleurisy, 
before  we  sailed,  and  forbade  Mary,  knowing 
how  busy  I  then  was  with  my  new  duties,  from 
letting  me  know,  —  I  would  tell  him  "  Yes." 
As  Mary  generally  wrote  when  Sam  did,  asking 
him  to  enclose  the  letter,  I  thought  it  no  harm 
when  Mr.  Stubbs  teased  me  about  getting  so 
many  letters,  to  simply  mention  I  had  heard 
from  Mary,  whom  Mr.  Stubbs  always  liked, 
without  speaking  of  Sam,  who  was  a  stranger 
to  him.  In  a  fortnight,  I  would  give  him  his 
answer,  I  told  Sam,  wishing  first  to  speak  to 
the  Countess;  but  must  confess  I  realized,  that 
first  night  in  London,  how  my  feelings  towards 
Sam  had  grown  and  strengthened  in  that  year 
of  separation,  and  what  my  reply  must  be. 


CHAPTER   LIX 

ORTHAM  was  so  far  rebuilt,  —  the  .part  des- 
troyed by  the  fire  that  is,  —  you  never  could 
have  told  from  the  outside,  when  we  drove  up 
through  the  long  beech  avenue  a  beautiful,  hazy 
October  evening,  that  the  west  wing  had  suf- 
fered as  it  did.  In  the  east  wing  was  the  sweet- 
est, cooing,  dimpled  baby  ever  seen;  "a  little 
girl  this  time,"  said  Lord  Glamorden,  but,  as 
Constance  junior  was  the  living  image  of  what 
her  mother  must  have  been  he  could  find  no  fault 
with  either. 

There  was  so  much  coming  and  going,  —  Sir 
Francis  and  Lady  Charlotte  among  the  first 
guests  to  arrive,  —  that  it  was  Sunday  before 
I  had  a  chance  to  speak  with  the  Countess  about 
Sam's  wishes.  Her  ladyship  had  never  before 
heard  of  Sam,  and  in  the  goodness  of  her  heart 
said,  "  I  am  sorry  for  Stubbs,  Burns;  his  lord- 
ship considers  him  most  reliable,  a  little  over- 
cautious, perhaps,  but  very  trustworthy,  if  a  trifle 
slow;  he  has  been  saving,  too,  and  must  have 
laid  by  a  considerable  sum."  But  when  I  told 
the  Countess  all  about  Sam,  how  he  had  declared 
if  I  favoured  Mr.  Stubbs,  thinking  him  a  better 
match,  he  would  leave  for  the  States  by  the  next 

322 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  323 

steamer,  never  troubling  me  again  unless  I  sent 
for  him,  her  ladyship  very  kindly  thought  he 
must,  also,  be  a  reliable  young  man,  and  he 
might  come  to  Ortham  the  following  Sunday, 
when  her  ladyship  herself  would  talk  with  him. 
A  day  or  two  after  Sir  Francis  arrived,  a 
frosty  November  morning,  as  I  hastened  back 
to  the  Towers  from  the  Lodge,  where  the  keep- 
er's aged  mother  was  recovering  from  a  sudden 
bad  turn,  I  felt  so  childishly  light-hearted  at 
being  home  again  that  I  could  scarce  keep 
from  racing  with  the  dry  oak  leaves,  eddying 
and  scudding  in  half  wreath  drifts  over  the  still 
green  turf.  Just  this  side  the  maze  I  met  Mr. 
Stubbs,  stepping  briskly  towards  the  gates.  He 
stopped  long  enough  to  excitedly  whisper, 
'  Who  do  you  think  has  just  arrived?  That 
exploring  Italian  prince,  it  may  be  to  offer  con- 
gratulations. I  am  no  trouble-borrower,  nor  one 
to  fidget  and  worry  over  affairs;  but  my  word 
for  it,  these  foreigners  make  nothing  of  chal- 
lengings  and  duellings  once  their  fancy  gets 
aroused,  and  I'd  rather  not  see  the  best  of  them 
roaming  about  until  matters  are  positively  ar- 
ranged. Beware  of  flying  in  the  face  of  Provi- 
dence, I  say,  and  thankful  we  should  be  that  his 
constitution  keeps  the  other  duke  safely  in  the 
Engadine  climate,  at  present,  or  we  might  all 
become  involved  in  personal  encounters  and  no 
end  of  disagreeable,  complicating  happenings." 
Without  giving  me  a  chance  to  reply,  Mr. 
Stubbs  hurried  off,  saying  he  must  catch  the  up 


324  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

express  and  would  return  from  London  late  that 
evening. 

Mary  came  down  that  first  Sunday  at  Ortham, 
and  we  had  indeed  a  great  deal  to  talk  over 
until  it  was  time  for  her  to  leave  to  catch  the 
train.  Mr.  Stubbs  kindly  offered  to  walk  to  the 
station  with  us  after  evening  prayer.  It  is  not 
a  very  long  walk  from  the  church  to  the  rail- 
road station,  and  Mr.  Stubbs  talked  most  of  the 
way,  telling  Mary  one  needs  the  patience  of 
Job  in  travelling,  and  of  the  annoying  bother 
he  had  in  India  trying  to  discover  the  right 
"  bhesti "  or  bearer,  to  carry  out  his  lordship's 
bath;  for  the  man  who  brings  in  the  tub  refuses 
to  remove  it,  fearing  he  will  lose  caste.  Mr. 
Stubbs  considers  the  "  chit "  system,  prevailing 
throughout  China  and  India,  very  sensible;  ma- 
king messages  sent,  as  well  as  the  replies,  ex- 
ceedingly plain;  and  writing  everything  in  a 
notebook  prevents  endless  parleying  and  confu- 
sion in  dealing  with  native  bearers.  Mary 
laughed  heartily  over  some  of  the  mistakes  he 
described,  in  trying  to  make  tradespeople  and 
the  like,  in  Italy  and  France,  comprehend  their 
own  language.  He  thinks  them,  ordinarily,  keen 
and  quick  to  understand  in  other  directions,  but 
remarkably  stupid  respecting  their  own  tongues. 

When  we  reached  the  booking  office,  and 
Mary  was  making  sure  her  up-ticket  was  all 
right,  I  heard  Mr.  Stubbs  describing  to  her  that 
ebony  elephant,  mounted  as  an  inkstand,  in 
sterling  silver,  which  I  know  he  values  highly  as 


TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  325 

Mr.  Varley's  gift  to  him  in  Calcutta,  mentioning 
he  would  be  pleased  to  give  it  to  her  as  a  keep- 
sake of  the  foreign  countries  they  had  been  talk- 
ing of;  inquiring,  too,  in  his  protecting  manner, 
always  liking  to  show  such  little  attentions,  —  a 
few  drops  of  rain  having  fallen,  followed  by 
flashes  of  lightning  and  thunder  rumblings  — 
was  she  quite  sure  she  did  not  mind  making  the 
up  trip  alone? 

Mr.  Stubbs  helped  Mary  into  the  railway  car- 
riage—  Mary  was  the  only  passenger  from  our 
station;  one  lady,  however,  already  sat  on  the 
farther  side  of  the  compartment,  her  back 
toward  the  engine.  Mr.  Stubbs  and  I  waited 
on  the  platform  until  the  guard  fastened  the 
door,  and,  as  the  train  pulled  out,  Mary  leaned 
from  the  carriage  window,  bowing  and  waving 
her  handkerchief.  That  new  mustard-coloured 
gown  does  become  her  face  and  figure,  and  the 
hat  of  the  same  shade,  trimmed  with  black  velvet 
and  ostrich  tips,  suits  her  uncommonly  well. 
Before  we  had  passed  beyond  the  station  en- 
trance, after  going  through  the  waiting-room,  a 
crash  of  falling  metal  and  breaking  glass  caused 
Mr.  Stubbs  to  run  quickly  back,  and  I  followed. 
Reaching  the  platform  again  we  saw  an  iron 
girder,  supporting  that  part  of  the  station  roof 
projecting  over  the  lines,  had  fallen  directly 
upon  the  up-train.  The  guard,  who  was  run- 
ning excitedly  along  the  platform,  looking  into 
each  carriage,  called  out  to  Mr.  Stubbs,  "  Your 
wife  is  all  right.  The  lady  in  the  forward  seat 


326  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

got  a  nasty  gash  on  her  chin  from  the  breaking 
glass;  but  that's  all  the  accident  amounts  to." 
Mary  was  at  the  carriage  window  again  by  this 
time,  and  though  the  train  moved  off,  almost 
without  delay,  I  could  see  her  face  was  redder 
than  Mr.  Stubbs's,  when  she  heard  these  re- 
marks. 

Having  no  chance  to  speak  of  Sam  earlier  in 
the  day,  as  Mr.  Stubbs  and  I  were  returning 
homeward,  sauntering  through  the  Park,  I  just 
myself  mentioned  about  our  having  been  boy  and 
girl  together  at  Aunt  Sarah's,  and  though  Mr. 
Stubbs  never  has  directly  referred  again  to  that 
confidential  talk  the  moonlit  night  led  to  our 
having  when  on  the  Indian  Ocean,  I  could  see 
he  did  not  feel  dissatisfied  at  my  thinking  so 
much  of  Sam,  and  more  than  once  inquired  if  Miss 
Mary  was  not  most  obliging  and  appreciative, 
no  fickleness  in  her  nature,  surely,  and  always 
he  has  admired  her  photograph;  regarding  her 
age  and  people  he  also  wished  to  know.  She  is 
just  seven  years  older  than  I  am.  I  did  not 
tell  him,  of  course,  that  Mary  herself  had  men- 
tioned, before  starting  for  the  station,  that  she 
considered  Mr.  Stubbs  more  affable  than  ever; 
rounder  and  pinker,  perhaps,  than  before  leav- 
ing for  the  long  trip ;  and  all  left  of  his  hair  was 
a  very  nice,  soft  shade. 

Mary  by  no  means  agreed  with  Madame 
Duval,  whom  she  heard  remarking  to  Miss 
Barnes  that  in  her  eyes  Monsieur  Stubbs  had 
well  aged  by  the  trip,  and  that  he  had  not 


TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S  MAID  327 

changed  his  habit  of  being  incredibly  chary  with 
his  words,  in  spite  of  his  new  American  teeth. 
Miss  Barnes  replied  that  she  had  never  found 
him  wanting  in  communicativeness,  but  he  did 
most  like  conversing  upon  his  own  feelings,  and 
judging  now  from  appearances,  it  would  not  be 
surprising  if  sometime  he  went  off  suddenly 
with  a  stroke. 

Long  ago  Mr.  Stubbs  told  me,  I  am  sorry  to 
say,  that  that  odious  grimacing  woman,  Madame 
Duval,  angered  him,  her  smooth,  scheming 
French  ways  bringing  out  all  the  worst  in  his 
nature;  consequently  he  avoided  her  as  far  as 
possible,  hoping  she  would  leave  him  alone,  it 
being  a  well-known  fact,  though  she  did  suc- 
ceed in  hoodwinking  many,  that  the  former  valet 
threw  up  the  place  owing  to  her.  The  man  was 
most  peaceable  and  steady,  own  brother  to  a 
valet  then  on  the  Prince  of  Wales's  pension  list, 
after  ten  years'  and  more  service  at  Marlborough 
House  and  Sandringham;  but  in  a  fit  of  temper 
Finch  had  remarked  —  Duval,  then  a  much 
younger  woman,  overhearing  it  —  that  she  never 
crossed  his  path  without  his  wanting  to  strangle 
her.  This  speech  came  out  through  Madame 
herself,  asking  one  of  the  footmen,  who  had  been 
in  the  Embassy  service  at  Paris,  "  What  does 
'  strang-le  '  mean  in  French?  "  She  made  a  tre- 
mendous fuss,  demanding  Finch  should  apolo- 
gize; and  he,  becoming  enraged,  proclaimed, 
some  insisted  before  the  Earl  himself  and  in  the 
butler's  presence,  he  would  gladly  leave  the  best 


328  TRAVELS   OF   A   LADY'S   MAID 

situation  he  ever  had  rather  than  so  much  as 
put  eyes  on  that  woman  again;  saying  also,  she 
always  did  remind  him  of  those  anaconda  mon- 
sters he  had  read  of,  mouthing  and  sliming  their 
victims  before  swallowing  them. 

This  occurred  before  my  coming  to  Ortham, 
of  course,  and  I  never  did  have  speech  with 
Finch,  he,  —  after  marrying  the  upper  parlour- 
maid in  a  diplomatist's  family,  a  most  attractive, 
superior  young  person,  I  am  told,  —  having 
gone  to  the  States  with  the  returning  American 
Ambassador,  or  Minister  rather,  as  he  then  was, 
to  the  Court  of  Saint  James;  but  what  I  had 
heard  prejudiced  me  against  French  Madames, 
though  comprehending  the  world's  ways  well 
enough  to  know  every  question  has  more  than 
one  side,  and  I  am  free  to  say  she  may  be  wiser 
now  she's  older  and  determined  on  returning  to 
her  Rouen;  but  I  want  no  French,  nor  English 
compliments  from  the  like  of  her.  "  Fancy  the 
impertinence  of  ferreting  out,"  Mr.  Stubbs  con- 
tinued, "  about  my  having  married  early  in  life, 
and  attempting  to  discuss  the  subject  with  Mrs. 
Bufers,  (who,  by  the  way,  being  a  particularly 
good  friend  of  mine,  felt  she  must  give  me  a 
word  of  warning),  remarking  that, though  I  had 
little  to  boast  of  as  to  personal  appearance,  she 
did  not  doubt  I  was  capable  of  making  a  '  mari 
tres  comme  il  faut.'  Think  of  the  meddling 
busybody  in  others'  affairs  venturing  to  say  this 
about  me.  She's  no  favourite  with  men,  and 
may  as  well  know  none  here  desire  to  become 


TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S   MAID  329 

Monsieur  Duval's  successor.  You  should  have 
seen  her  expression  when  that  clock-winding 
young  fellow  was  down,  the  other  day,  tinkering 
at  the  pantry  clock  and  describing  those  scientific 
experiments  with  serum  germs  and  microbes  at 
one  of  the  big  city  hospitals  where  he  had  been 
employed.  Seeing  Madame  was  listening  at  the 
door  I  could  not  refrain  from  asking  if  they  had 
yet  discovered  any  serums  for  ill-temper  and  lazi- 
ness? Glancing  towards  Madame  she  under- 
stood, I  saw,  my  meaning,  though  sniffing  hard 
and  passing  on,  ignoring  the  remark." 


CHAPTER   LX 

WHEN  Sam  came  down  the  next  Sunday,  I 
had  the  whole  afternoon  free,  and  did  feel  proud 
of  his  tidy,  manly  appearance  and  very  thank- 
ful he  could  see  and  speak  with  a  lady  like  the 
Countess.  Long  ago,  as  a  younger  lad,  he  was 
a  little  wild,  and  did  have  some  feeling,  many 
times  before  he  was  twenty  I  have  heard  him 
assert,  that  the  House  of  Lords  should  be  abol- 
ished, declaring,  too,  that  working  people  had 
petitioned  long  enough  and  must  now  demand 
their  rights.  Sam's  face  has  never  lost  that 
solemn,  wistful  look  most  children  have  who 
never  have  known  a  mother,  nor  much  of  a 
father;  but  it  is  kindly  and  earnest;  quick  to 
smile  when  he  speaks. 

The  Countess  received  Sam  in  the  morning- 
room  and  talked  with  him  nearly  half  an  hour. 
After  seeing  her  ladyship  he  found  me  beneath 
the  clump  of  Scotch  firs  beyond  the  kitchen 
gardens,  and  declared,  for  goodness,  he  had 
never  seen  her  equal. 

"  I  will  not  hide  it  from  you,  Annie,  but  long 
I  have  thought  a  new  country  the  place  for  a 
poor  man  to  bring  up  his  family.  My  health 
is  none  too  good  in  these  London  fogs.  I  try 

330 


my  best  to  work  faithful,  but  there  is  no  use 
counting  on  raises,  sure  to  come  if  I  were  a  more 
able-bodied  sort  of  chap.  At  the  hospital  they 
told  me  my  lungs  didn't  work  as  they  should, 
and  if  you  are  willing,  before  many  years  pass 
we  will  go  to  that  California  you  spoke  of  — 
I  had  thought  of  South  America  as  offering  most 
in  the  way  of  pay,  but  there  are  too  many  revo- 
lutions and  earthquakes  to  risk  at  present  —  and 
start  a  farm  of  our  own;  or  I  could  keep  on 
awhile  there  with  the  printing  work.  A  young 
fellow  on  one  of  the  big  Strand  Weeklies  went 
out  to  that  city  of  Angels,  where  you  stopped, 
made  a  success  in  six  months  and  had  his  sweet- 
heart and  her  mother  out  within  the  year. 

*  Yes,  Annie,  republics  I  always  have  believed 
give  a  man  the  chance,  though  those  constant 
strikes  and  labour  troubles  over  there,  of  recent 
years,  I  don't  clearly  understand.  Still,  from 
present  accounts,  thinking  men  are  beginning  to 
tire  of  leaders  claiming  to  protect  the  working 
man  and  meanwhile  filling  their  own  pockets  by 
levying  blackmail,  or  on  the  proceeds  of  rows 
they  have  managed  to  stir  up.  Getting  any  real 
help  from  such  scamps  is  as  useless  as  shaking 
your  fist  at  the  mountains  for  not  giving  up  their 
gold.  Like  a  nightmare  it  hangs  over  me,  the 
awful  struggles  of  men  I  have  known,  honest  as 
the  day,  hard-working  fellows,  out  of  a  job 
through  no  fault  of  their  own,  ailing,  and  not 
knowing  till  too  late  that  the  feebleness  came 
from  being  half -starved ;  waking  up  in  the 


332  TRAVELS  OF  A  LADY'S  MAID 

gloom,  if  they  chanced  to  sleep  at  all,  from  cold 
and  worry,  with  that  despairing  feeling  of  hav- 
ing the  weight  of  the  whole  world  upon  them, 
as  they  listen  to  their  helpless  children  crying 
and  pleading  for  bread.  It  is  present  relief  such 
crushed  beings  want,  not  promises  about  the 
future.  Unrelieved  suffering  here  is  enough  for 
them  to  dread  and  shudder  over  without  dwell- 
ing on  what  there  is  uncertainty  about. 

"  A  young  Hollander  who  had  seen  better 
days  in  his  own  land,  before  sinking  to  the  low- 
est depths  of  Whitechapel  poverty,  told  me  when 
stranded,  utterly  friendless  and  almost  penniless 
in  London,  his  wife  ill  and  a  wailing  baby  to 
look  after,  he  felt  while  tramping  through 
thronged  streets,  alone,  vainly  seeking  work  and 
with  the  torments  of  hell  pressing  on  him,  that 
transparent,  but  impassable  barriers  separated 
him  from  the  rest  of  mankind;  and  at  night  the 
feeling  came  keen  upon  him  of  being  one  of 
the  belated,  betrayed  travellers,  lured  into  mur- 
derous Black  Forest  haunts  to  find  a  heavy 
ceiling,  from  which  escape  was  impossible, 
slowly  descending  until  it  crushed  and  mangled 
its  victims,  before  death  came. 

"  Many  of  the  clergy  and  others  are  learning 
that  ministering  to  tortured  bodies  and  giving 
the  helpless  a  chance  is  helping  to  cure  the  soul's 
distress.  I  am  rarely  inside  a  church  door  these 
days,  being  tired  and  stupid  from  the  week's 
work;  but  our  London  Bishop  knows  something 
of  what  the  appalling  daily  struggle  means  in 


TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S   MAID  333 

the  slums;  that  one  in  New  York,  too,  I  see, 
likes  helping  and  heartening  people  in  a  kindly, 
human  way.  Men  are  awakening  everywhere, 
Annie,  each  in  his  own  way,  striving  and  grop- 
ing as  never  before  these  days,  longing  and  seek- 
ing for  surer  foundations;  some  listening  for 
that  still,  small  voice  and  vision  beyond  the  mere 
physical  which  preachers  tell  of,  many  seeing  in 
the  struggles  signs,  as  that  poet  puts  it,  of 
growth :  — 

Like  tides  on  a  crescent  sea-beach 
When  the  moon  is  new  and  thin, 
Into  our  hearts  high  yearnings 
Come  welling  and  surging  in; 
Come  from  the  mystic  ocean 
Whose  rim  no  foot  has  trod  — 
Some  of  us  call  it  longing 
And  others  call  it  God.' 

*  You  know  I  was  born  and  bred  among 
Derbyshire  peaks,  Annie,  though  seldom  it  is, 
for  many  years,  that  I  have  seen  hills  higher  than 
Saint  Paul's  Cross,  but  I  don't  forget  those 
church  army  folks,  liking,  as  a  lad,  to  listen  to 
their  singing  out  of  doors,  and  how  one  parson 
said  you  must  go  through  those  dark  valleys, 
between  the  high  peaks,  to  realize  the  mountain's 
strength,  and  that  God  leads  by  stormy,  weary 
ways  to  teach  His  power.  This  may  be  true; 
and  one  thing  is  sure,  Annie,  you  have  made 
me  know  there  is  good  in  life,  and  evil  cannot 
overwhelm  love;  you  do  know  how  I  cleave  to 
you  with  my  whole  heart,  Annie." 


334  TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S   MAID 

I  did  just  then  lay  my  head  on  Sam's  shoul- 
der, and  could  not  refrain  from  telling  him  noth- 
ing in  this  world  should  ever  part  us  again.  He 
did  seem  relieved  and  satisfied,  and  soon  began 
consulting  me  about  plans,  saying  a  printer 
friend  had  offered  him  unexpectedly  —  he  being 
obliged  to  move  nearer  Paternoster  Row  —  a 
three-years'  unexpired  lease  of  a  nice  four- 
roomed  cottage  towards  Hampstead  Heathway, 
not  far  from  the  new  Foundling  Children's 
Home,  with  a  garden.  He  had  mentioned  this 
to  her  ladyship,  it  being  necessary  to  give  an 
answer  without  delay  to  the  people  now  occupy- 
ing the  cottage,  asking,  if  I  consented,  whether 
it  would  be  convenient  to  have  me  leave 
Ortham  before  Ash-Wednesday.  The  Countess 
was  so  lovely  as  to  reply  that  I  had  shown  devo- 
tion beyond  praise  to  herself  and  Lady  Emily; 
and  if  I  believed  it  for  my  happiness,  she  wished 
me  to  accept  Sam;  and  as  a  wedding  gift  would 
provide  all  needed  for  the  cottage  and  three 
years'  rent. 

Before  we  had  finished  our  long  talk,  deciding 
on  many  things,  —  Sam  declaring  it  the  great- 
est comfort  to  bring  out  what  you  keep  turning 
over  in  your  mind,  if  a  person  really  cares  about 
what  is  pressing  on  you,  —  Mr.  Stubbs  strolled 
towards  us  down  the  path  from  the  dovecots, 
and  I  had  a  chance  to  introduce  Sam.  They 
were  friendly  at  once,  and  Mr.  Stubbs  very 
pleasantly  mentioned  having  seen,  the  past  week, 
a  neat  Dresden  tea-service,  scalloped  and  gilded 


TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S   MAID  335 

borders  with  small  yellow  and  pink  roses  —  his 
favourite  flowers  —  tied  together  with  a  lovers' 
knot,  painted  upon  the  different  pieces; 
strangely  enough,  on  leaving  the  Oxford  Street 
shop,  he  had  met  Miss  Mary,  so  persuaded  her 
to  go  back  with  him  and  give  her  opinion  as  to 
whether  it  would  be  acceptable  to  me  as  a  mar- 
riage gift.  She  declared  it  "  one  of  the  most 
sweetly  pretty  tea-services  she  had  ever  seen." 
They  then  selected  two  flower  window-boxes  for 
the  sitting-room,  one  tiled  in  front,  decorated 
with  thrushes  and  apple  blossoms,  the  other  hav- 
ing humming  birds  and  bees  hovering  over 
honeysuckles,  both  against  a  blue  sky,  and  most 
handsomely  finished,  Mr.  Stubbs  is  bound  to 
say,  though  speaking  of  his  own  gift.  Sam  told 
him  he  had  just  been  telling  me  about  the  gar- 
den—  having  noticed  there  one  of  those  nice 
ornamental  rustic  iron  seats,  left  on  the  prem- 
ises by  former  tenants  —  and  is  most  determined 
on  contriving  an  arbour  of  some  sort,  begging 
Mr.  Stubbs  to  say  he  would  bring  Mary  down, 
the  first  fair  day  of  spring,  so  we  four  might 
have  tea  there  together.  Mr.  Stubbs  appeared 
extremely  willing,  saying  in  any  case  he  should 
be  obliged  to  see  Miss  Mary  again  before  Christ- 
mas, and  would  then  tell  her  of  the  kind  invita- 
tion, and  endeavour  to  get  her  consent  to  accept 
for  the  first  clear  Sunday  in  March. 

Before  Sam  returned  to  London  everything 
was  decided  concerning  the  cottage  and  many 
other  things.  The  next  evening  a  letter  came 


336  TRAVELS   OF  A  LADY'S   MAID 

from  Mary,  who  wrote  she  wished  to  give  me 
all  the  gardening  tools  I  could  use,  also  one  of 
the  window-boxes  Mr.  Stubbs  had  put  aside  at 
the  china  shop. 

Lady  Emily  was  kind  enough  to  tell  me  the 
Countess  was  very  pleased  with  Sam;  and  that 
when  my  wedding  day  came,  before  Lent  —  her 
own  marriage,  if  present  plans  are  carried  out, 
could  not  come  until  after  Easter,  Sir  Francis 
being  already  on  the  Mediterranean  crossing 
toward  India  —  everything  I  wore  on  that  occa- 
sion, and  needed,  must  be  her  gift.  The  gown 
of  white  taffeta,  —  unless  I  preferred  ivory  cloth 
for  the  winter,  —  trimmed  with  a  bit  of  real  lace 
about  the  neck  and  sleeves,  she  thought  would 
be  nicest;  and  my  lace  hat  must  have  bride 
roses  and  foliage;  nothing  simpler  or  more  be- 
coming, her  ladyship  thinks,  unless  I  fancied 
white  geraniums  or  lilacs.  Her  ladyship  also 
very  kindly  offered  to  speak  to  the  vicar,  when 
Sam  and  I  decided  on  a  convenient  day.  All 
seemed  easily  settled ;  and  such  kindness  I  never, 
never  could  have  expected. 

I  shall  be  near  those  I  love  for  at  least  three 
years,  and  find  the  twins  again,  God  willing, 
before  Sam  and  I  start  for  the  new  world,  that 
seems  to  me  now  a  familiar  dwelling-place. 


THE  END. 


From 

L.  C.  Page  &  Company's 
Announcement  List 
of  New  Fiction 


The  Call  of  the  South 

BY  ROBERT  LEE  DURHAM.     Cloth  decorative,  with  6  illus- 
trations by  Henry  Roth $1.50 

A  very  strong  novel  dealing  with  the  race  problem  in  this 
country.  The  principal  theme  is  the  danger  to  society  from  the 
increasing  miscegenation  of  the  black  and  white  races,  and  the 
encouragement  it  receives  in  the  social  amenities  extended  to 
negroes  of  distinction  by  persons  prominent  in  politics,  philan- 
thropy and  educational  endeavor;  and  the  author,  a  Southern 
lawyer,  hopes  to  call  the  attention  of  the  whole  country  to  the 
need  of  earnest  work  toward  its  discouragement.  He  has 
written  an  absorbing  drama  of  life  which  appeals  with  apparent 
logic  and  of  which  the  inevitable  denouement  cornea  a*  a  final 
and  convincing  climax. 

The  author  may  be  criticized  by  those  who  prefer  not  to  face 
the  hour  "  When  Your  Fear  Cometh  As  Desolation  And  Your 
Destruction  Cometh  As  A  Whirlwind;  "  but  his  honesty  of 
purpose  hi  the  frank  expression  of  a  danger  so  well  understood 
in  the  South,  which,  however,  many  in  the  North  refute  to 
recognize,  while  others  have  overlooked  it,  will  be  upheld  by 
the  sober  second  thought  of  the  majority  of  his  readers. 


L.  C.  PAGE  &  COMPANY'S 


The  House  in  the  Water 

BY  CHARLES  G.  D.  ROBERTS,  author  of  "  The  Haunters  of 
the  Silences,"  "  Red  Fox,"  "  The  Heart  of  the  Ancient 
Wood,"  etc.  With  cover  design,  sixteen  full-page  drawings, 
and  many  minor  decorations  by  Charles  Livingston  Bull. 
Cloth  decorative,  with  decorated  wrapper  .  .  $1.50 

Professor  Roberts's  new  book  of  nature  and  animal  life  is  one 
long  story  in  which  he  tells  of  the  life  of  that  wonderfully  acute 
and  tireless  little  worker,  the  beaver.  "  The  Boy  "  and  Jabe 
the  Woodsman  again  appear,  figuring  in  the  story  even  more 
than  they  did  in  "  Red  Fox;  "  and  the  adventures  of  the  boy 
and  the  beaver  make  most  absorbing  reading  for  young  and 
old. 

The  following  chapter  headings  for  "  The  House  in  the 
Water  "  will  give  an  idea  of  the  fascinating  reading  to  come: 

THE  SOUND  IN  THE  NIGHT     (Beavers  at  Work). 

THE  BATTLE  IN  THE  POND     (Otter  and  Beaver). 

IN  THE  UNDER- WATER  WORLD     (Home  Life  of  the  Beaver) 

NIGHT  WATCHERS     ("  The  Boy  "  and  Jabe  and  a  Lynx  See 

the  Beavers  at  Work). 
DAM  REPAIRING  AND  DAM  BUILDING    (A  "  House-raising  " 

Bee). 

THE  PERIL  OF  THE  TRAPS    (Jabe  Shows  "  The  Boy"). 
WINTER  UNDER  WATER     (Safe  from  All  but  Man). 
THE  SAVING  OF  BOY'S  POND     ("  The  Boy  "   Captures  Two 

Outlaws). 

"  As  a  writer  about  animals,  Mr.  Roberts  occupies  an  enviable 
place.  He  is  the  most  literary,  as  well  as  the  most  imaginative 
and  vivid  of  all  the  nature  writers."  —  Brooklyn  Eagle. 

"  Hia  animal  stories  are  marvels  of  sympathetic  science  and 
literary  exactness."  —  New  York  World. 

"  Poet  Laureate  of  the  Animal  World,  Professor  Roberts 
displays  the  keenest  powers  of  observation  closely  interwoven 
with  &  fine  imaginative  discretion."  —  Boston  Transcript. 


LIST  OF  NEW  FICTION  8 

Captain  Love 

THE  HISTORY  OF  A  MOST  ROMANTIC  EVENT  IN  THE  LIFE  OF 
AN  ENGLISH  GENTLEMAN  DURING  THE  REIGN  OF  HIB  MAJESTY 
GEORGE  THE  FIRST.  CONTAINING  INCIDENTS  OF  COURTSHIP 
AND  DANGER  AS  RELATED  IN  THE  CHRONICLES  OF  THE  PERIOD 
AND  Now  SET  DOWN  IN  PRINT 

BY  THEODORE  ROBERTS,  author  of  "  The  Red  Feathers," 
"  Brothers  of  Peril,"  etc.  Cloth  decorative,  illustrated  by 
Frank  T.  Merrill $1.50 

A  stirring  romance  with  its  scene  laid  in  the  troublous  times 
in  England  when  so  many  broken  gentlemen  foregathered  with 
the  "  Knights  of  the  Road;  "  when  a  man  might  lose  part  of 
his  purse  to  his  opponent  at  "  White's  "  over  the  dice,  and  the 
next  day  be  relieved  of  the  rest  of  his  money  on  some  lonely 
heath  at  the  point  of  a  pistol  in  the  hand  of  the  self-same  gambler. 

But,  it  the  setting  be  similar  to  other  novels  of  the  period,  the 
story  is  not.  Mr.  Roberts's  work  is  always  original,  his  style  is 
always  graceful,  his  imagination  fine,  his  situations  refreshingly 
novel.  In  his  new  book  he  has  excelled  himself.  It  is  un- 
doubtedly the  best  thing  he  has  done. 


Bahama  Bill 

BY  T.  JENKINS  HAINS,  author  of  "  The  Black  Barque," 
"  The  Voyage  of  the  Arrow,"  etc.  Cloth  decorative,  with 
frontispiece  in  colors  by  H.  R.  Reuterdahl  .  .  $1.50 

The  scene  of  Captain  Hainc's  new  sea  story  is  laid  in  the 
region  of  the  Florida  Keys.  His  hero,  the  giant  mate  of  the 
wrecking  sloop,  Sea-Horse,  while  not  one  to  stir  the  emotions 
of  gentle  feminine  readers,  will  arouse  interest  and  admiration 
in  men  who  appreciate  bravery  and  daring. 

His  adventures  while  plying  his  desperate  trade  are  full  of 
the  danger  that  holds  one  at  a  sharp  tension,  and  the  reader 
forgets  to  be  on  the  side  of  law  and  order  in  his  eagerness  to  see 
the  "  wrecker  "  safely  through  his  exciting  escapades. 

Captain  Hains's  descriptions  of  life  at  sea  are  vivid,  absorbingly 
frank  and  remarkably  true.  "  Bahama  Bill  "  ranks  high  as 
a  stirring,  realistic,  unsoftened  and  undiluted  tale  of  the  sea, 
chock  full  of  engrossing  interest. 


L.  C.  PAGE  <fe  COMPANY'S 


Matthew  Porter 

BY  GAMALIEL  BRADFORD,  JR.,  author  of  "  The  Private  Tutor," 
etc.      With  a  frontispiece  in  colors  by  Griswold  Tyng     $1.50 
When  a  young  man  has  birth  and  character  and  strong  ambi- 
tion it  is  safe  to  predict  for  him  a  brilliant  career;    and,  when 
The  Girl  comes  into  his  life,  a  romance  out  of  the  oidinary. 
Such  a  man  is  Matthew  Porter,  and  the  author  has  drawn  him 
with  fine  power. 

Mr.  Bradford  has  given  us  a  charming  romance  with  an 
unusual  motive.  Effective  glimpses  of  the  social  life  of  Boston 
form  a  contrast  to  the  more  serious  purpose  of  the  story;  but, 
in  "  Matthew  Porter,"  it  is  the  conflict  of  personalities,  the 
development  of  character,  the  human  element  which  grips  the 
attention  and  compels  admiration. 

Anne  of  Green  Gables 

BY  L.  M.  MONTGOMERY.  Cloth  decorative,  illustrated  $1.50 
Every  one,  young  or  old,  who  reads  the  story  of  "  Anne  of 
Green  Gables,"  will  fall  in  love  with  her,  and  tell  their  friends 
of  her  irresistible  charm.  In  her  creation  of  the  young  heroine 
of  this  delightful  tale  Miss  Montgomery  will  receive  praise  for 
her  fine  sympathy  with  and  delicate  appreciation  of  sensitive 
and  imaginative  girlhood. 

The  story  would  take  rank  for  the  character  of  Anne  alone; 
but  in  the  delineation  of  the  characters  of  the  old  farmer,  and 
his  crabbed,  dried-up  spinster  sister  who  adopt  her,  the  author 
has  shown  an  insight  and  descriptive  power  which  add  much  to 
the  fascination  of  the  book. 

Spinster  Farm 

BY  HELEN  M.  WINSLOW,  author  of  "  Literary  Boston."    Illus- 
trated from  original  photographs      .          .          .  $1.50 
Whatever  Miss  Winslow  writes  is  good,  for  she  is  in  accord 
with  the  life  worth  living.    The  Spinster,  her  niece  "  Peggy," 
the    Professor,    and    young   Robert    Graves,  —  not    forgetting 
Hiram,  the  hired  man,  —  are   the  characters  to  whom  we  are 
introduced  on  "  Spinster  Farm."     Most  of  the  incidents  and 
all  of  the  characters  are  real,  as  well  as  the  farm  and  farmhouse, 
unchanged  since  Colonial  days. 

Light-hearted  character  sketches,  and  equally  refreshing  and 
unexpected  happenings  are  woven  together  with  a  thread  of 
happy  romance  of  which  Peggy  of  course  is  the  vivacious  heroine. 
Alluring  descriptions  of  nature  and  country  life  are  given  with 
fascinating  bits  of  biography  of  the  farm  animals  and  household 


Selections  from 

L.  C.  Page  and  Company's 

List  of  Fiction 


WORKS  OF 

ROBERT  NEILSON  STEPHENS 

Each  one  vol.,  library  izmo,  cloth  decorative    .         . 

The  Flight  of  Georgiana 

A  ROMANCE  OF  THE  DAYS  OF  THE  YOUNG  PRETENDER.  Illus- 
trated by  H.  C.  Edwards. 

"  A  love-story  in  the  highest  degree,  a  dashing  story,  and  a  re- 
markably well  finished  piece  of  work." —  Chicago  Record-Herald. 

The  Bright  Face  of  Danger 

Being  an  account  of  some  adventures  of  Henri  de  Launay,  son  of 

the  Sieur  de  la  Tournoire.     Illustrated  by  H.  C.  Edwards. 

"  Mr.   Stephens   has  fairly   outdone    himself.       We  thank   him 

heartily.     The   story  is   nothing  if   not   spirited  and  entertaining, 

rational  and  convincing."  —  Boston  Transcript. 

The  Mystery  of  Murray  Davenport 

(4Oth  thousand.) 

"This  is  easily  the  best  thing  that  Mr.  Stephens  has  yet  done. 
Those  familiar  with  his  other  novels  can  best  judge  the  measure  of 
this  praise,  which  is  generous."  —  Buffalo  News. 

Captain  Ravenshaw 

OR,  THE  MAID  OF  CHEAPSIDE.  (52d  thousand.)  A  romance 
of  Elizabethan  London.  Illustrations  by  Howard  Pyle  and  other 
artists. 

Not  since  the  absorbing  adventures  of  D'Artagnan  have  we  had 
anything  so  good  in  the  blended  vein  of  romance  and  comedy. 

The  Continental  Dragoon 

A  ROMANCE  OF  PHILIPSF.  MANOR  HOUSE  IN  1778.  (53^ 
thousand.)  Illustrated  by  H.  C.  Edwards. 

A  stirring  romance  of  the  Revolution,  with  its  scene  laid  ot 
neutral  tarrito*«- 

1 


L.  C.  PAGE   &•    COMPANY'S 


Philip  Win  wood 

(70th  thousand.)  A  Sketch  of  the  Domestic  History  of  an 
American  Captain  in  the  War  of  Independence,  embracing  events 
that  occurred  between  and  during  the  years  1763  and  1785  ia 
New  York  and  London.  Illustrated  by  E.  W.  D.  Hamilton. 

An  Enemy  to  the  King 

(70th  thousand.)     From  the  "  Recently  Discovered  Memoirs   of 
the  Sieur  de  la  Tournoire."     Illustrated  by  H.  De  M.  Young. 
An   historical  romance  of  the   sixteenth  century,  describing  the 

adventures  of  a  young  French  nobleman  at  the  court  of  Henry  III., 

and  on  the  field  with  Henry  IV. 

The  Road  to  Paris 

A   STORY  OF  ADVENTURE.      (35th  thousand.)      Illustrated  by 

H.  C.  Edwards. 

An  historical  romance  of  the  eighteenth  century,  being  an  account 
of  the  life  of  an  American  gentleman  adventurer  of  Jacobite  an- 
cestry. 

A  Gentleman  Player 

His  ADVENTURES  ON  A  SECRET  MISSION  FOR  QUEEN  ELIZA- 
BETH.    (48th  thousand.)     Illustrated  by  Frank  T.  Merrill. 
The  story  of  a  young  gentleman  who  joins  Shakespeare's  com- 
pany of  players,  and  becomes  a  friend  and  protege  of   the  great 
poet. 

Clementina's  Highwayman 

Cloth  decorative,  illustrated „        $1.50 

Mr.  Stephens  has  put  into  his  new  book,  "  Clementina's  Highway 
man,"  the  finest  qualities  of  plot,  construction,  and  literary  finish. 

The  story  is  laid  in  the  mid-Georgian  period.  It  is  a  dashing1, 
sparkling,  vivacious  comedy,  with  a  heroine  as  lovely  and  changeable 
as  an  April  day,  and  a  hero  all  ardor  and  daring. 

The  exquisite  quality  of  Mr  Stephens's  literary  style  clothes  the 
story  in  a  rich  but  delicate  word-fabric ;  and  never  before  have  his 
setting  and  atmosphere  been  so  perfect. 


LIST  OF  FICTION 


VORKS  OF 

CHARLES  G.  D.  ROBERTS 

Haunters  of  the  Silences 

Cloth,  one  volume,  with  many  drawings  by  Charles  Livingston 
Bull,  four  of  which  are  in  full  color  ....  $2.00 

The  stories  in  Mr.  Roberts's  new  collection  are  the  strongest  and 
best  he  has  ever  written. 

He  has  largely  taken  for  his  subjects  those  animals  rarely  met 
with  in  books,  whose  lives  are  spent  "  In  the  Silences,"  where  they 
are  the  supreme  rulers.  Mr.  Roberts  has  written  of  them  sympa- 
thetically, as  always,  but  with  fine  regard  for  the  scientific  truth. 

"  As  a  writer  about  animals,  Mr.  Roberts  occupies  an  enviable 
place.  He  is  the  most  literary,  as  well  as  the  most  imaginative 
and  vivid  of  all  the  nature  writers." —  Brooklyn  Eagle. 

"  His  animal  stories  are  marvels  of  sympathetic  science  and  liter- 
ary exactness." —  New  York  World. 

Red  Fox 

THE  STORY  OF  His  ADVENTUROUS  CAREER  IN  THE  RINGWAAK 
WILDS,  AND  OF  His  FINAL  TRIUMPH  OVER  THE  ENEMIES  OF 
His   KIND.      With   fifty  illustrations,   including  frontispiece  in 
color  and  cover  design  by  Charles  Livingston  Bull. 
Square  quarto,  cloth  decorative $2.00 

"  Infinitely  more  wholesome  reading  than  the  average  tale  of 
sport,  since  it  gives  a  glimpse  of  the  hunt  from  the  point  of  view  of 
the  hunted." —  Boston  Transcript. 

"True  in  substance  but  fascinating  as  fiction.  It  will  interest 
old  and  young,  city-bound  and  free-footed,  those  who  know  animals 
and  those  who  do  not."  —  Chicago  Record-Herald. 

"A  brilliant  chapter  in  natural  history."  —  Philadelphia  North 
American. 


L.  C.  PAGE   &•   COMPANY'S 


The  Kindred  of  the  Wild 

A  BOOK  OF  ANIMAL  LIFE.  With  fifty-one  full-page  plates  and 
many  decorations  from  drawings  by  Charles  Livingston  Bull. 

Square  quarto,  decorative  cover $2.00 

"  Is  in  many  ways  the  most  brilliant  collection  of  animal  stories 
that  has  appeared ;  well  named  and  well  done."  — John  Burroughs. 

The  Watchers  of  the  Trails 

A  companion  volume  to  "  The  Kindred   of  the   Wild."     With 
forty-eight  full-page  plates  and  many  decorations  from  drawings 
by  Charles  Livingston  Bull. 
Square  quarto,  decorative  cover  ......    $2.00 

"  These  stories  are  exquisite  in  their  refinement,  and   yet  robust 

in  their  appreciation  of  some  of  the  rougher  phases  of  woodcraft. 

Among  the  many  writers  about  animals,  Mr.  Roberts  occupies  an 

enviable  place. —  The  Outlook. 

"  This  is  a  book  full  of  delight.     An  additional  charm  lies  in  Mr. 

Bull's  faithful  and  graphic  illustrations,  which  in  fashion  all   their 

own  tell  the  story  of  the  wild  life,  illuminating  and  supplementing 

the  pen  pictures  of  the  author."  —  Literary  Digest. 

The  Heart  That  Knows 

Library  1 2mo,  cloth,  decorative  cover         ....    $1.50 
"  A  novel  of  singularly  effective  strength,  luminous   in   literary 
color,  rich  in  its  passionate,  yet  tender  drama."  —  New  York  Globe. 

Earth's  Enigmas 

A  new  edition  of  Mr.  Roberts's  first  volume  of  fiction,  published 
in  1892,  and  out  of  print  for  several  years,  with  the  addition  of 
three  new  stories,  and  ten  illustrations  by  Charles  Livingston 
Bull. 

Library  i2mo,  cloth,  decorative  cover          .        .        .        .    $  1.50 
"  It    will    rank   high    among  collections   of    short   stories.      In 
'Earth's  Enigmas'  is  a  wider  range  of   subject  than  in  the  'Kin- 
dred of  the  Wild.'" — Review  from  advance  sheets  of  the  illustrated 
edition  by  Tiffany  Blake  in  the  Chicago  Evening  Post. 

Barbara  Ladd 

With  four  illustrations  by  Frank  Verbeck. 

Library  1 2 mo,  cloth,  decorative  cover         .        .        .        .    $1.50 

"  From  the  opening  chapter  to  the  final  page  Mr.  Roberts  lures 

as  on  by  his  rapt  devotion  to  the  changing  aspects  of  Nature  and 

by  his  keen  and  sympathetic  analysis  of  human  character,"  —  Boston 

Transcrift. 


LIST  OF  FTCTTON' 


Cameron  of  Lochiel 

Translated  from  the  French  of  Philippe  Aubert  de  Gaspe,  witk 

frontispiece  in  color  by  H.  C.  Edwards. 

Library  I2tno,  cloth  decorative $1-50 

"  Professor  Roberts  deserves  the  thanks  of  his  reader  for  giving 
a  wider  audience  an  opportunity  to  enjoy  this  striking  bit  of  French 
Canadian  literature."  —  Brooklyn  Eagle. 

"  It  is  not  often  in  these  days  of  sensational  and  philosophical 
novels  that  one  picks  up  a  book  that  so  touches  the  heart."  — 
Boston  Trtnscrift. 

The  Prisoner  of  Mademoiselle 

With  frontispiece  by  Frank  T.  Merrill. 

Library  121110,  cloth  decorative,  gilt  top      .  rfi-SO 

A  tale  of  Acadia,  —  a  land  which  is  the  author's  heart's  delight, 
—  of  a  valiant  young  lieutenant  and  a  winsome  maiden,  who  first 
captures  and  then  captivates. 

"  This  is  the  kind  of  a  story  that  makes  one  grow  younger,  more 
innocent,  more  light-hearted.  Its  literary  quality  is  impeccable. 
It  is  not  every  day  that  such  a  heroine  blossoms  into  even  tempo- 
rary existence,  and  the  very  name  of  the  story  bears  a  breath  of 
charm."  —  Chicago  Record-Herald. 

The  Heart  of  the  Ancient  Wood 

With  six  illustrations  by  James  L.  Weston. 

Library  i2mo,  decorative  cover $1.50 

•'One  of  the  most  fascinating  novels  of  recent  days." — Boston 
Journal. 

"  A  classic  twentieth-century  romance."  —  New  York  CommercM 
Advertiser. 

The  Forge  in  the  Forest 

Being  the  Narrative  of  the  Acadian  Ranger,  Jean  de  Mer, 
Seigneur  de  Briart,  and  how  he  crossed  the  Black  Abbe,  and  of 
his  adventures  in  a  strange  fellowship.  Illustrated  by  Henry 
Sandham,  R.  C.  A. 

Library  1 2mo,  cloth,  gilt  top $l-SP 

A  story  of  pure  love  and  heroic  adventure. 

By  the  Marshes  of  Minas 

Library  lamo,  cloth,  gilt  top,  illustrated  .  .  .  .  f  1.50 
Most  of  these  romances  are  in  the  author's  lighter  and  more 

playful   vein;   each  is  a  unit  of  absorbing  interest  and  exquisite 

workmanship. 


L.  C.  PAGE   <5r-    COMPANY'S 


A  Sister  to  Evangeline 

Being  the  Story  of  Yvonne  de  Lamourie,  and  how  she  went  into 
exile  with  the  villagers  of  Grand  Pre. 

Library  1 2mo,  cloth,  gilt  top,  illustrated     .         .         .         .    $1.50 
Swift  action,  fresh  atmosphere,  wholesome  purity,  deep  passion, 
and  searching  analysis  characterize  this  strong  novel. 


WORKS  OF 

LILIAN  BELL 

Carolina  Lee 

With  a  frontispiece  in  color  from  an  oil  painting  by  Dora  Wheeler 
Keith.     Library  1 2mo,  cloth,  decorative  cover    .         .         .     $1.50 
"  A  Christian  Science  novel,  full  of  action,  alive  with  incident  and 
brisk  with  pithy  dialogue  and  humor."  —  Boston  Transcript. 

*"  A  charming  portrayal  of  the  attractive  life  of  the  South,  refresh- 
ing as  a  breeze  that  blows  through  a  pine  forest." —  Albany  Times- 
Union. 

Hope  Luring 

Illustrated  by  Frank  T.  Merrill. 

Library  1 2mo,  cloth,  decorative  cover  ....  £1.50 
"Tall,  slender,  and  athletic,  fragile-looking,  yet  with  nerves  and 
sinews  of  steel  under  the  velvet  flesh,  frank  as  a  boy  and  tender  and 
beautiful  as  a  woman,  free  and  independent,  yet  not  bold  —  such  is 
*  Hope  Loring,'  by  long  odds  the  subtlest  study  that  has  yet  been 
made  of  the  American  girl."  —  Dorothy  Dix,  in  the  New  York 
American. 

Abroad  with  the  Jimmies 

With  a  portrait,  in  duogravure,  of  the  author. 
Library  1 2mo,  cloth,  decorative  cover          ....    $1.50 
"  Full  of  ozone,  of  snap,  of  ginger,  of  swing  and  momentum."  — 
Chicago  Evening  Pott. 

At  Home  with  the  Jardines 

A  companion  volume  to  "  Abroad  with  the  Jimmies." 

Library  1 2mo,  cloth,  decorative  cover $1.50 

"  Bits  of  gay  humor,  sunny,  whimsical  philosophy,  and  keen  in- 
dubitable insight  into  the  less  evident  aspects  and  workings  of  pure 
human  nature,  with  a  slender  thread  of  a  cleverly  extraneous  love 
story,  keep  the  interest  of  the  reader  fresh." —  Chicago  Record- 
Herald. 


